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Baldrick

Baldrick

Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
109
Location
Sevenoaks
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 204 4Motion
Glad you’re up and running again. Putting a couple of ice blocks in the fridge and already cold items helps the fridge (and batteries) out a fair bit. There’s a thread on which temperature setting you’ll want, we use 6 (Max is 7) although at that temperature anything at the back (window side) freezes eventually, so that’s where our ice thermos flasks live. A digital fridge temperature gauge is inexpensive and should hopefully keep you from inadvertently giving yourselves food poisoning until you’re comfortable with it.
 
Paulro

Paulro

VIP Member
Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
316
Location
Bristol
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
I’m not sure that’s correct. I think it’s the other way. I use 4 but on one side of the fridge it can ice over. Going higher ie 5-7 makes it freeze less so I’d say 1 is the most efficient freezing and 7 is less effective
 
Phillip T

Phillip T

VIP Member
Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
536
Location
Highlands
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 150
I’m not sure that’s correct. I think it’s the other way. I use 4 but on one side of the fridge it can ice over. Going higher ie 5-7 makes it freeze less so I’d say 1 is the most efficient freezing and 7 is less effective
after some tests I ended top on setting 5 which gives around 5-8C in the centre, after all the fridge being small will always have a rapid turnaround of things like meat. Anything sensitive goes in the back.
 
J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
Fridge not staying on again… as soon as I can I will check the cube fuse.

I’m suspicious that the plug socket i was charging from might but be properly grounded- either that or I have the Earth
Shunt thing to fix..
anyone think fitting the 75a fuse instead of the 50a a bad idea?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
Managed to find a couple of mins and got to the rear cube fuse. Turns out it’s fine!

So.. I also noticed that there’s no clicking sound this time when trying to turn the register
Fridge on. It won’t turn on with the engine on or when plugged into the mains… I will try that danfoss controller doodad check list next to see if I can diagnose anything else..

I’m slowly replacing all the fuses with those ones that glow when they are broken as well.. should help matters in the future I think.


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M

marchugo

Messages
392
anyone think fitting the 75a fuse instead of the 50a a bad idea?

John, about ten years ago, members of the German Cali-website Caliboard found out that the 50A fuse is prone to die, in situations where the leasure batts are deeply unloaded. The fierce currents that flow from the motor alternator to the leasure batt in the back are sometimes too high for this fuse. So yes, it is advised to place a 75A fuse there. (the front leasure batt already has a 80A fuse fitted in the factory, see picture. It protects the split relay under the pessenger seat.)

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
Rijstoel_HH_Accu_fuse_80A_3.jpg
 
J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
Wow! That’s what that fuse is! Thank you for the explanation! I might swap in the 75a then just in case.. don’t know about anyone else today but due to the drop in temps the boot is frozen shut and I could just smog get the passenger door open… time to get out the silicone spray I think.


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J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
Right- I’ve done the diagnostic thing for the fridge and it came out as 5 beeps which according to the blurb means the compressor is overloaded & to send the controller back for testing… does anyone have any experience with this?


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J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
Wow ok getting the controller out is simple when you know how… not so much when you’ve never seen a side entry 3 prong plug before though!

So the replacement controller is the 101N0212 costing £160… wondering if it’s worthwhile sending the old one back for inspection or just ordering a new one…

eef9c9be98c46934aec84dbfe7316493.jpg



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M

marchugo

Messages
392
Wow! That’s what that fuse is! Thank you for the explanation! I might swap in the 75a then just in case..

Mind you, the 75A pole fuse is a block mounted on the plus pole of the rear battery. The 80A fuse under the pessengers seat is a kind of 'flying' fuse in the cable coming from the motor batt..

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
 
Paulro

Paulro

VIP Member
Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
316
Location
Bristol
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
Wow! That’s what that fuse is! Thank you for the explanation! I might swap in the 75a then just in case.. don’t know about anyone else today but due to the drop in temps the boot is frozen shut and I could just smog get the passenger door open… time to get out the silicone spray I think.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Paulro

Paulro

VIP Member
Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
316
Location
Bristol
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
The 75a fuse fits on the rear battery, not this one under the passenger seat. It’s the block type fuse you are thinking of uprating
 
J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
I’m about ready to throw in the towel trying to fit the controller back on… very fed up. I cannot work out what keeps blocking me from sliding it onto the metal bracket!

It’s plugged in- and so I’m very tempted to just wedge the thing in with thick foam… if anyone knows the trick up getting it back onto its metal bracket please do say.


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M

marchugo

Messages
392
John,

This is all I could find on my harddisk. Maybe it will help you...

Regards from Amsterdam,

Marc.
 

Attachments

  • REPLACING THE CONTROL BOX ON A BD35-50.pdf
    381 KB · Views: 7
J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
Thanks very much Marc- I’m resolving myself to using thick foam for now until I remove the whole fridge unit in the future. Thank you very much though!

The good news is that the fridge now works!


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kurienp

kurienp

Top Poster
VIP Member
Messages
2,057
Location
Newbury, Berkshire, UK
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 204 4Motion
Thanks very much Marc- I’m resolving myself to using thick foam for now until I remove the whole fridge unit in the future. Thank you very much though!

The good news is that the fridge now works!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

@JohnVZ , I would avoid thick foam not knowing how hot that area can get and foam can melt. If you cannot peek inside, use the phone camera to take a few pics of the inside area and then analyse the pics to see what is stopping it from slotting into place. A drain hole camera is also a good investment. Not very expensive off Amazon.
 
J

JohnVZ

Messages
32
Location
London
Vehicle
T5 Cali on order
Finally got round to replacing the water level meter… nice little crack down the side of the old one!
512138fafc65bc40dcbb38faa465b0d2.jpg

And now the water level will finally registers empty! Yay!

9fcb623163e6bea12d0d570e575aefa4.jpg


I seem to have a recurring rear number plate bulb going… not concerned about it as I’ve just had the mot done. Might upgrade to some led ones and see if that makes a difference.
 
C

Crasher

Messages
4
Location
Wakefield
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
Hi John
Looks like you in same boat as myself .Purchased a 2009 174 in Sept and have lots of little niggles shall we say.Replaced original leisure batteries and just installing two solar panels .My fridge doesn't always seem to work but think mine is when ambient temperature is low .If I raise fridge level to max it works .Keep plugging away and the self satisfaction I now get as most of my equipment works as intended is part of learning and getting a connection with chip our van.Good luck with yours
 
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