A/C suddenly stopped working

[jliungman]

Hi!
I have a 2006 T5 Cali. Today, on a hot day in Sweden (yes, they do happen) the A/C suddenly stopped cooling. I think the ”auto” light went out but not sure. Just ambient air. Here are the symptoms:
* fans are running ok
* when I turn on A/C (turn off ”economy” in Auto mode with cold settings), after 10-20 seconds I get a deeper fan sound, but no cooling
* looking under the car at what I think is the compressor (next to front right wheel) it seems the compressor is engaged all the time. The black round part which I believe connects compressor with engine axis is always rotating. That could be normal?
* I hear no relay clicking. I am not sure there would be such a sound but in other cars there would be an audible click
* ODB thingy provides no error info
* All fuses (in centre console and in engine compartment) are ok

The picture shows what I think is the compressor. With engine off, I can ”ratchet” the black round part that connects with the engine. With engine on this part rotates all the time.


off course, I will get this to an A/C workshop, but I have a weekend to diagnose it, so any suggestioms are appreciated. Broken relay?

Thanks!

john

 

[WelshGas]

Hi!
I have a 2006 T5 Cali. Today, on a hot day in Sweden (yes, they do happen) the A/C suddenly stopped cooling. I think the ”auto” light went out but not sure. Just ambient air. Here are the symptoms:
* fans are running ok
* when I turn on A/C (turn off ”economy” in Auto mode with cold settings), after 10-20 seconds I get a deeper fan sound, but no cooling
* looking under the car at what I think is the compressor (next to front right wheel) it seems the compressor is engaged all the time. The black round part which I believe connects compressor with engine axis is always rotating. That could be normal?
* I hear no relay clicking. I am not sure there would be such a sound but in other cars there would be an audible click
* ODB thingy provides no error info
* All fuses (in centre console and in engine compartment) are ok

The picture shows what I think is the compressor. With engine off, I can ”ratchet” the black round part that connects with the engine. With engine on this part rotates all the time.

View attachment 61250
off course, I will get this to an A/C workshop, but I have a weekend to diagnose it, so any suggestioms are appreciated. Broken relay?

Thanks!

john

When was the AirCon Serviced? Coolant charge checked? and how often do you use the AirCon?

Gates Coupling forcA/C?

Gates Coupling

Any info please on a gates coupling for my 2.5 pdf Cali??????

vwcaliforniaclub.com

 

[jliungman]

When was the AirCon Serviced? Coolant charge checked? and how often do you use the AirCon?

Gates Coupling forcA/C?

Hi! And thanks for responding so quickly!

* No idea when last serviced (the AC). I bought the van year ago.
* Coolant, same. But the very quick shift from working to not working indicates to me that this is not the main issue. Am I wrong?
* After winter I have useD the AC for the last Month or so. No long trips though, only 1-2 hrs a few times per week.
* The couplings... the black ring that rotates seems to be called the freewheel, and if this is turning, does this not indicate that the coupling is ok? The freewheel is between the compressor and the coupling.

How about the relay? Shouldnt I hear a ”click”?

john

 

[jliungman]

Hang on! Will a lack of coolant cause the compressor not to engage? A protective feature?

 

[TripleBee]

As you have the 2.5 TDI, the compressor is engaged by a toothed belt (very tiny cambelt-ish thing)



Your airco compressor will be engaged constantly (if you have climatronic). In econ mode, the compressor will deliver about 2.5bar of pressure. When engaged, it will deliver between 5 (cold weather) and 10 - 15 bar (warm to hot weather). That is why you don't hear the clicking sound anymore.

What can happen is that you damaged your condensor (the radiator in front of all the other radiators apart from the intercooler). A rock can punch a hole in the condensor making the gas to escape, leaving you without cooling.
If you say you can turn the black disk and hear a ratching sound, the toothed belt can be damaged.
If you have an endoscope camera, you could have a look behind the metal part and look what happens when you turn the black disk.

 

[Legin]

Switch a/c off engine with control set to maximum cooling. Watch the clutch and get someone to turn a/c on , the clutch should engage (both parts spin) and drive the compressor. If it engages you have gas if not then its likely you have insufficent gas.

 

[Emil Silenhag]

You need to read out fault codes. Probably low pressure refrigerant, in other words you have a leak som where. Unfortunately it is quite common in California’s and T5 with a third clima zone in the back. If you have VCDS or similar you can often clear the fault code and make it work again (I’ve done that a couple of times), but of course, it will fail again shortly after (mine did a week later). So take it to a good ac work shop. The pressurize the system, and search for leaks. Often it is a small leak they can’t find. So then they fill up refrigerant and some dye/color. You drive around for a couple of weeks/months and then it stops working again. Back to the ac work shop. They now can look for the dye, sometimes use special lamps and googles. Hopefully they find the leak and can repair it. Common place is pipes going to the third clima zone in the back. They goes under the van, and behind the rear right wheel. Up in the cabin and to a vaporizer in the back right side. You can see it if you loosen the panel (just pulls out, clips) just inside the tail gate in the right hand side. You can have a leak in the vaporizer, or in the connection between the pipes and the vaporizer + a valve in this connection. Unfortunately it is expensive to fixe a leaky third clima zone. Some people just plug the pipes to the third clima zone, charge the system with fresh refrigerant and only have functioning ac in the front...

 

[jliungman]

You need to read out fault codes. Probably low pressure refrigerant, in other words you have a leak som where. Unfortunately it is quite common in California’s and T5 with a third clima zone in the back. If you have VCDS or similar you can often clear the fault code and make it work again (I’ve done that a couple of times), but of course, it will fail again shortly after (mine did a week later). So take it to a good ac work shop. The pressurize the system, and search for leaks. Often it is a small leak they can’t find. So then they fill up refrigerant and some dye/color. You drive around for a couple of weeks/months and then it stops working again. Back to the ac work shop. They now can look for the dye, sometimes use special lamps and googles. Hopefully they find the leak and can repair it. Common place is pipes going to the third clima zone in the back. They goes under the van, and behind the rear right wheel. Up in the cabin and to a vaporizer in the back right side. You can see it if you loosen the panel (just pulls out, clips) just inside the tail gate in the right hand side. You can have a leak in the vaporizer, or in the connection between the pipes and the vaporizer + a valve in this connection. Unfortunately it is expensive to fixe a leaky third clima zone. Some people just plug the pipes to the third clima zone, charge the system with fresh refrigerant and only have functioning ac in the front...

Seems like a starting point, checking coolant. BTW, saw you video on Youtube about changing the ”belts”. Looked awefully complicated, but a nice clear video. Thanks!

 

[jliungman]

As you have the 2.5 TDI, the compressor is engaged by a toothed belt (very tiny cambelt-ish thing)
View attachment 61257
View attachment 61258

Your airco compressor will be engaged constantly (if you have climatronic). In econ mode, the compressor will deliver about 2.5bar of pressure. When engaged, it will deliver between 5 (cold weather) and 10 - 15 bar (warm to hot weather). That is why you don't hear the clicking sound anymore.

What can happen is that you damaged your condensor (the radiator in front of all the other radiators apart from the intercooler). A rock can punch a hole in the condensor making the gas to escape, leaving you without cooling.
If you say you can turn the black disk and hear a ratching sound, the toothed belt can be damaged.
If you have an endoscope camera, you could have a look behind the metal part and look what happens when you turn the black disk.
View attachment 61259

Thanks! I am a little confused though. If the compressor increases the pressure, there must be some mechanism making that change. Maybe not a clutch, but a valve or something else. This would need to be controlled electrically, no? Also, @Legin is mentioning a clutch mechanism. So I am not sure now who is right...

 

[TripleBee]

A variable compressor is controlled by a valve that changes the angle of the pressure plate.
Not sure how to explain.
The older compressors are on or off. Then you always hear the click and the airco gives full power until the selected temperature is reached, then it's turned completely off.

Maybe this will explain to you?

 

[Legin]

Thanks! I am a little confused though. If the compressor increases the pressure, there must be some mechanism making that change. Maybe not a clutch, but a valve or something else. This would need to be controlled electrically, no? Also, @Legin is mentioning a clutch mechanism. So I am not sure now who is right...

Explained post above. I wasnt aware the more sophisticated continuously variable type is installed.
So early type is all or nothing.
Modern type have a swash plate to vary the piston stroke.

 

[jliungman]

A variable compressor is controlled by a valve that changes the angle of the pressure plate.
Not sure how to explain.
The older compressors are on or off. Then you always hear the click and the airco gives full power until the selected temperature is reached, then it's turned completely off.

Maybe this will explain to you?

Ok, I see! (Pretty cool mechanical design there!) I guess there could still be an electrical problem in the circuit controlling the solenoid. But now I know that I am not looking for a relay controlling a clutch, which probably means this is beyond me. Heading for a repair shop tomorrow to check pressure, etc.
Thanks!

 

[WelshGas]

Ok, I see! (Pretty cool mechanical design there!) I guess there could still be an electrical problem in the circuit controlling the solenoid. But now I know that I am not looking for a relay controlling a clutch, which probably means this is beyond me. Heading for a repair shop tomorrow to check pressure, etc.
Thanks!

Please let us know what transpires.

 

[jliungman]

So, just to wrap this up. Went to a good A/C mechanic, and the verdict? Had to get a new compressor. It was completely trashed (he showed it to me). It was also from 2008, so I would say it had a pretty good run.

So now I am 1000 Euros poorer but I have a nice chilly car! Also glad I did not spend hours trying to find an electrical fault which was not there.

 

[WelshGas]

So, just to wrap this up. Went to a good A/C mechanic, and the verdict? Had to get a new compressor. It was completely trashed (he showed it to me). It was also from 2008, so I would say it had a pretty good run.

So now I am 1000 Euros poorer but I have a nice chilly car! Also glad I did not spend hours trying to find an electrical fault which was not there.

Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Many don't.

 

[TripleBee]

So, just to wrap this up. Went to a good A/C mechanic, and the verdict? Had to get a new compressor. It was completely trashed (he showed it to me). It was also from 2008, so I would say it had a pretty good run.

So now I am 1000 Euros poorer but I have a nice chilly car! Also glad I did not spend hours trying to find an electrical fault which was not there.

Good to hear.
Did he change the toothed belt too? Weren't there any cracks in it? Or didn't the blocked compressor break the teeth?