Boot light has stopped working. Fuse maybe?

haydnw2 · Nov 16, 2020

Whilst attempting to swap the festoon bulb in the boot light for an LED one, I've managed to stop it working. The new LED bulb doesn't work either way around, nor does the original bulb (filament is still OK). My first thought is to check the fuse, but I have no idea which one it is! Despite combing the Resources section, I can't find a fuse diagram for a late T5.1 SE (registered April 2015). I'm also slightly bemused that everything else I've tested seems to work, but I can't believe that one boot light has its own fuse. The layout diagram for the Beach suggests that the "luggage compartment lights" should share a fuse with "front and rear interior lights" and "illuminated sill panel trim", but all of those are still working. I've checked with a multimeter and there's no voltage across the bulb terminals. The check was done directly after unlocking the vehicle and opening the boot, so it shouldn't have timed out due to the 10-minute rule. The plug in the wardrobe seems securely attached to the light fitting.

Can anyone offer any insight as to which fuse I should be checking, or any other avenues to explore, please? It was only supposed to be a five-minute job!

WelshGas · Nov 16, 2020

haydnw2 said:
Whilst attempting to swap the festoon bulb in the boot light for an LED one, I've managed to stop it working. The new LED bulb doesn't work either way around, nor does the original bulb (filament is still OK). My first thought is to check the fuse, but I have no idea which one it is! Despite combing the Resources section, I can't find a fuse diagram for a late T5.1 SE (registered April 2015). I'm also slightly bemused that everything else I've tested seems to work, but I can't believe that one boot light has its own fuse. The layout diagram for the Beach suggests that the "luggage compartment lights" should share a fuse with "front and rear interior lights" and "illuminated sill panel trim", but all of those are still working. I've checked with a multimeter and there's no voltage across the bulb terminals. The check was done directly after unlocking the vehicle and opening the boot, so it shouldn't have timed out due to the 10-minute rule. The plug in the wardrobe seems securely attached to the light fitting.

Can anyone offer any insight as to which fuse I should be checking, or any other avenues to explore, please? It was only supposed to be a five-minute job!

Have you tried Fuse 24, 7.5amps, upper fuse board below pull out drinks holder in Dashboard.

haydnw2 · Nov 17, 2020

Thanks. I hadn't, but I have now! Alas, no luck. That's a 5A on ours. It looked fine but I changed it anyway, with no effect. I've disconnected the light fitting from the plug on the end of the wire which snakes around the water tank, and can't read any voltage across the plug either.

In the absence of any definitive fuse location, I'm considering just pulling all of them (starting with the smallest ones) to see if any of them have gone. The internet suggests this might be a bad idea because onboard computers don't like fuses disappearing and re-appearing, but surely the chances of damage are slim if everything's turned off?

WelshGas · Nov 17, 2020

haydnw2 said:
Thanks. I hadn't, but I have now! Alas, no luck. That's a 5A on ours. It looked fine but I changed it anyway, with no effect. I've disconnected the light fitting from the plug on the end of the wire which snakes around the water tank, and can't read any voltage across the plug either.

In the absence of any definitive fuse location, I'm considering just pulling all of them (starting with the smallest ones) to see if any of them have gone. The internet suggests this might be a bad idea because onboard computers don't like fuses disappearing and re-appearing, but surely the chances of damage are slim if everything's turned off?

View attachment 69542

It won’t be the High Amp fuses. I would try the 7.5 amp fuses first.

Loz · Nov 17, 2020

You don’t need to pull them if you have a multimeter. You test for continuity by putting the meter probes, one on each of the small metal parts of each fuse, and you can quickly go along each row and test. If your meter has a diode or continuity function that buzzes when you touch the probes together then this is the easiest.

haydnw2 · Nov 18, 2020

Every day is a school day! Thanks, that's turned it into a five-minute job - dodgy 7.5 A fuse identified in short order and boot light now fully functional again. The fuse is highlighted on the attached photo just for completeness in case anyone stumbles across this thread in future.

thomasamoht · Aug 15, 2023

haydnw2 said:
Every day is a school day! Thanks, that's turned it into a five-minute job - dodgy 7.5 A fuse identified in short order and boot light now fully functional again. The fuse is highlighted on the attached photo just for completeness in case anyone stumbles across this thread in future.
View attachment 69549

You sir are a gentleman. I have indeed stumbled across this thread and solved the same issue. Thank you

sbmcd · Aug 25, 2023

haydnw2 said:
Whilst attempting to swap the festoon bulb in the boot light for an LED one, I've managed to stop it working. The new LED bulb doesn't work either way around, nor does the original bulb (filament is still OK). My first thought is to check the fuse, but I have no idea which one it is! Despite combing the Resources section, I can't find a fuse diagram for a late T5.1 SE (registered April 2015). I'm also slightly bemused that everything else I've tested seems to work, but I can't believe that one boot light has its own fuse. The layout diagram for the Beach suggests that the "luggage compartment lights" should share a fuse with "front and rear interior lights" and "illuminated sill panel trim", but all of those are still working. I've checked with a multimeter and there's no voltage across the bulb terminals. The check was done directly after unlocking the vehicle and opening the boot, so it shouldn't have timed out due to the 10-minute rule. The plug in the wardrobe seems securely attached to the light fitting.

Can anyone offer any insight as to which fuse I should be checking, or any other avenues to explore, please? It was only supposed to be a five-minute job!

Can you tell me if you had any issue getting the bulb holder out of the rear cupboard unit, I've tried the usual trim tool method and get the end lifted so far but it sticks and I feel I'll break it if I apply any more pressure.

montyburns1982 · Aug 25, 2023

sbmcd said:
Can you tell me if you had any issue getting the bulb holder out of the rear cupboard unit, I've tried the usual trim tool method and get the end lifted so far but it sticks and I feel I'll break it if I apply any more pressure.

Just did mine it was a total pig. Used a thick trim tool and brute force.

sbmcd · Aug 26, 2023

montyburns1982 said:
Just did mine it was a total pig. Used a thick trim tool and brute force.

Thanks

haydnw2 · Sep 1, 2023

sbmcd said:
Can you tell me if you had any issue getting the bulb holder out of the rear cupboard unit

I cannot phrase it better than @montyburns1982 - it was indeed an absolute pig. I am not very prone to outbursts of brute force, but on this occasion it did the trick. I'm afraid I can't remember what it looked like once I had it out, i.e. can't give you any pointers on how to make it easier.

montyburns1982 · Sep 1, 2023

haydnw2 said:
I cannot phrase it better than @montyburns1982 - it was indeed an absolute pig. I am not very prone to outbursts of brute force, but on this occasion it did the trick. I'm afraid I can't remember what it looked like once I had it out, i.e. can't give you any pointers on how to make it easier.

From what I remember the metal 'spring' which essentially holds the thing into the slot was ridiculously strong, which explains why it was so hard to remove.

I eventially intend to replace the unit with a sealed LED unit (already purchased), but I haven't the motivation at the moment due to how hard it was tom get out last time!