Driveway options - Resin, block, tarmac?

[Ch1pbutty]

Cotswold chippings (on a plastic grid if you have a slope), or, self binding limestone hoggin.

Whatever you go for make sure you get a decent base laid.

 

[reserves]

Cotswold chippings (on a plastic grid if you have a slope), or, self binding limestone hoggin.

Whatever you go for make sure you get a decent base laid.

I've been considering the plastic grid /cotswold (limestone stones) combo, as seems the cheapest option.

Our builder is already clearing all the old tarmac etc.

Do you think it's something a general builder can do, rather than getting a specialist in?

 

[Vagophile]

I've spent a pleasant hour or more reading the saga of @Amarillo's drive, one of the more interesting threads on the forum! Nearly as long running as the chickens. Of course all of this was pre my Cali ownership, little did I know that forum membership would not only inform about all things California but also provide a guide to avoiding the pitfalls which can arise in everyday life.
@Amarillo, I trust that your sister in law has now recovered: another life lesson: beware of taught chains, wires and ropes, if they snap they can cause serious injury.
Well off topic, but no apology.

 

[Amarillo]

Useful video here for block paving.

 

[Amarillo]

trust that your sister in law has now recovered

She never will fully recover. She explains her life now as living in a fog, and can find even the most simple of decisions difficult to make. But my brother is now retired and able to help. Physically she's fine.

 

[Vagophile]

I've been considering the plastic grid /cotswold (limestone stones) combo, as seems the cheapest option.

Our builder is already clearing all the old tarmac etc.

Do you think it's something a general builder can do, rather than getting a specialist in?

I have had Cotswold limestone chippings at a previous house, used in edged footpaths and 3 car + lorry parking area. The general builder who was working for us went with an 8 wheeler lorry owning friend to a Cotswold quarry and bought a load direct, about 20 tonnes I think. It worked very well with the usual reservation about weeds.
It was placed over existing chippings which were on a designed foundation.

 

[Velma's Dad]

Circa 1960

View attachment 68784

Screen grab from the film "Girl on Approval".

Well it clearly stood up to the weight of a Ford Zephyr, which was one of the bigger British cars of the 1950s, although still only about 1.1 tonnes versus about 1.8 tonnes for a modern Ford Mondeo which shows how modern cars have become bloated.

 

[Velma's Dad]

I've been considering the plastic grid /cotswold (limestone stones) combo, as seems the cheapest option.

Our builder is already clearing all the old tarmac etc.

Do you think it's something a general builder can do, rather than getting a specialist in?

Yes certainly something for any competent builder. They just need to know what specification you require (eg MOT Type 1 for the sub-base) and that they hire in a proper compacting machine for the job - sometimes known as a plate compactor or whacker. Laying the grid whether for grass or chippings etc is not hard. Our builder did both our block driveway and 'grass grid' and after five years they've both stayed in perfect shape, no sagging or movement.

 

[B16 JOG]

The recurring message is to get the base right - properly dug out and Type 1 whacked in properly. After that, everything else is simply a choice of top-dressing: block, gravel, grid and filler (gravel, grass, wild flowers etc,) resin etc. But, get the base right!
By the way, if the base is correct, weeds are less of an issue. The are mostly airborne seeds that took root and easily removed!

 

[Ch1pbutty]

I've been considering the plastic grid /cotswold (limestone stones) combo, as seems the cheapest option.

Our builder is already clearing all the old tarmac etc.

Do you think it's something a general builder can do, rather than getting a specialist in?

General builder will be fine as they have experience of foundations for house extensions etc which will be more technical than a driveway. As per 'Velma's Dad'...of plenty of whacked down MOT Sub 1, Membrane under the crate to help prevent weeds & then choice of topping.

 

[Crispo]

Any more than 5m2 of impermeable paving ie solid concrete in the front garden and you need planning permission.

People paving front gardens in London in particular has caused huge problems with the drains not being able to cope with sudden torrential rainfall.
Any large areas of roof or hard landscaping & we have to put in attenuation tanks which reduce the flow to the drains or if practical a green roof where the soil soaks up the water & it drains off slowly later.

Had been due to re-asphalt our drive last week, but caught wind of this PP requirement. Contractor came up with some drainage ideas and soakaways but council simply wouldn’t advise other than insisting on applying with scaled plans and waiting 3 months for a response!! Ending up pulling it, and now can’t decide how best to progress - probably have to be gravel, but shame as (knackered) tarmac now, and PITA dragging bins across gravel.
Contractor (council highways approved surfaces) didn’t know about it, and suggested no-one would ever question it, but Problem is when you try and sell and lawyer asks for the planning paperwork - apparently happening all the time according to the council!?!

 

[Tom Smith]

Hey,

Thought I'd ask here as usually get some useful replies!

Having our driveway done (currently bumpy 30 year old tarmac).

Budget isn't huge, but also want something that looks smart.

Love the look of resin bound (smartest in my opinion) but heard it stains etc.

Blockwork looks ok, but everyone who has it on our road it's sunken.

Apparently Tarmac with a decorative border is the most practical, hard wearing.

Too many options!

Photo for attention (NOT my driveway unfortunately!)

View attachment 68748View attachment 68748

Hi, I have a resin drive and have churned up the surface at the position where I park, mainly due to power steering as I turn the wheel slightly to position the Cali. I do not personally recommend it.

 

[Velma's Dad]

Had been due to re-asphalt our drive last week, but caught wind of this PP requirement. Contractor came up with some drainage ideas and soakaways but council simply wouldn’t advise other than insisting on applying with scaled plans and waiting 3 months for a response!! Ending up pulling it, and now can’t decide how best to progress - probably have to be gravel, but shame as (knackered) tarmac now, and PITA dragging bins across gravel.
Contractor (council highways approved surfaces) didn’t know about it, and suggested no-one would ever question it, but Problem is when you try and sell and lawyer asks for the planning paperwork - apparently happening all the time according to the council!?!

Did you pick up from the earlier posts that the planning consent is only required for impermeable paving? You can put down as much permeable paving as you like. There are plenty of porous block paving solutions out there.

Sorry if that's already clear but I thought worth mentioning.

 

[Crispo]

Did you pick up from the earlier posts that the planning consent is only required for impermeable paving? You can put down as much permeable paving as you like. There are plenty of porous block paving solutions out there.

Sorry if that's already clear but I thought worth mentioning.

Thanks for pointing out in case.
Had understood that hence now probably going to go with gravel but would have preferred asphalt. There is a permeable version but am told not very hard wearing. Another option is resin type with an asphalt on top but effectively paying for two drives....

 

[Velma's Dad]

Thanks for pointing out in case.
Had understood that hence now probably going to go with gravel but would have preferred asphalt. There is a permeable version but am told not very hard wearing. Another option is resin type with an asphalt on top but effectively paying for two drives....

Porous asphalt is used in plenty of car parks etc and also as road surfacing so I'd be surprised if it wasn't adequately hard wearing for a domestic driveway. But I gather it needs laying by a specialist (so a contractor who isn't able to do it themselves isn't likely to recommend it). And it's probably not cheap.

 

[Wildcamper]

We went for a good solid base then 100mm of 20mm Cotswold gravel. Nice bright colour, easy to rake and add more to cover spillages, weed kill to keep looking nice. Easy to refresh in the spring with s good rake. Much cheaper than tarmac, blocks, resin.

 

[Karlos]

A bit boring but we have lived in our current house for 15 years, the drive was done about 5 years before we bought the house.

Its is concrete flags with a block paved edging, in 20 years it has not sank, cracked or had any weed issues.

A neighbour said it took the builders as long to prep the foundation as it did to lay the slabs and they are jointed with a sand & cement mortar reinforced with granite dust.

As I said, boring but it has served us well.

 

[pjm-84]

Nice Herald!

What would I do. I would go down the permeable block route. I use these guys quite a bit on my commercial projects. (Link is for homeowners though)

Block Paving, Paving Slabs and Walling Products for Homeowners

Quality manufactured concrete block paving and paving flags & slabs. Comes with a 25 year guarantee installed by registered installers throughout UK & Ireland.

www.tobermore.co.uk

 

[Jester]

A bit boring but we have lived in our current house for 15 years, the drive was done about 5 years before we bought the house.

Its is concrete flags with a block paved edging, in 20 years it has not sank, cracked or had any weed issues.

A neighbour said it took the builders as long to prep the foundation as it did to lay the slabs and they are jointed with a sand & cement mortar reinforced with granite dust.

As I said, boring but it has served us well.

View attachment 68977

Hi Karlos, that was one of my first cars, cost me £45 and had 32k on the clock. Has yours got a handle on the bonnet?

 

[YELRAV]

We went for gravel with edging. Cheap, rain soaks through, isn’t slippy when it freezes/covered in snow and a good burglar deterrent as it makes a noise when you stand on it. Can hear people arriving.
downside is that gravel moves and you would get weeds sometimes.

 

[Karlos]

Hi Karlos, that was one of my first cars, cost me £45 and had 32k on the clock. Has yours got a handle on the bonnet?

No, yours would have been a very late 50's early 60's Herald.

 

[Anthony1]

Made a difference, didn't it?
One thing not mentioned is cost, I think that block paving would be the most expensive.
Block paving is used for parking/storage areas at container ports; the consensus is that it provides the most durable long term surface.

I thought resin was the most expensive. We went for block/brick. Looked great to start with but weeds are a constant pest are oil leaks from son's cars (oh and mine).

 

[Amarillo]

Looked great to start with but weeds are a constant pest

We spray ours twice yearly and brush in anti weed kiln dried sand once a year.

After nearly four years it has a couple of shallow dips or sags, but looks almost a good as new - especially just after its annual sand treatment.

 

[Jester]

No, yours would have been a very late 50's early 60's Herald.

It was I think 1961 gray and white.

 

[ArunAlec]

We went for gravel with edging. Cheap, rain soaks through, isn’t slippy when it freezes/covered in snow and a good burglar deterrent as it makes a noise when you stand on it. Can hear people arriving.
downside is that gravel moves and you would get weeds sometimes.

My 50 year old concrete drive is slowly breaking up. So I’ve replaced a section with gravel, with a good MOT base and a weed suppressing membrane. As you say it’s relatively cheap .... my drive Is big so would cost a fortune to do any other way. Also it’s a pretty easy diy job.