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Frost protection

RockinNRollin

RockinNRollin

Where to next?
VIP Member
Messages
1,054
Location
Manchester, UK
Vehicle
T6.1 Ocean 150
So just thinking about protecting our Cali from frost; yes we've emptied the water and waste tanks, but there's bound to be some water still inside the pump etc.. so please critique this plan; connect the van to hookup (we fortunately can easily do this) then have a 500w oil filled thermostatically controlled radiator sat in the living area on the lowest setting and plugged into the mains socket at the end of the kitchen unit, keeping the van around 5-10 degrees C, with the cupboards all open so the air can circulate.

Thoughts? Any issue with the having a long-term (days at a time) draw on the EHU socket?

Cheers
 
RockinNRollin said:
So just thinking about protecting our Cali from frost; yes we've emptied the water and waste tanks, but there's bound to be some water still inside the pump etc.. so please critique this plan; connect the van to hookup (we fortunately can easily do this) then have a 500w oil filled thermostatically controlled radiator sat in the living area on the lowest setting and plugged into the mains socket at the end of the kitchen unit, keeping the van around 5-10 degrees C, with the cupboards all open so the air can circulate.

Thoughts? Any issue with the having a long-term (days at a time) draw on the EHU socket?

Cheers
Click to expand...
You've drained the tap and it's pipe as detailed in the Handbook?
Yes, you can leave it plugged into EHU with the radiator on, if you wish. Of course the charger will be running continuously. Apart from the cost there would be no problem.
 
I admit I've not drained the tap and pipe - I will investigate that component tonight - I assume the pipe runs along the back of the units somewhere?

My intention is to only implement this arrangement during cold spells; it's probably beneficial for the batteries to be trickle charged in such circumstances anyway?
 
RockinNRollin said:
I admit I've not drained the tap and pipe - I will investigate that component tonight - I assume the pipe runs along the back of the units somewhere?

My intention is to only implement this arrangement during cold spells; it's probably beneficial for the batteries to be trickle charged in such circumstances anyway?
Click to expand...
You remove the tap/pump fuse, or unplug the tap electrical connection under the sink, and open the tap. This drains the tap and supply pipe back to the tank. Similarly with the shower connection.
 
WelshGas said:
You remove the tap/pump fuse, or unplug the tap electrical connection under the sink, and open the tap. This drains the tap and supply pipe back to the tank. Similarly with the shower connection.
Click to expand...
Easier than expected! I will do that anyway - thanks, but I still think it's not a bad thing to have a bit of heat in the van (and on low temp setting on the thermostat I can't see it costing a great deal to run either).
 
Nothing wrong with running a (safe) electric heater. You can be assured however, that a properly drained Cali is quite frost proof.

Some experts advise to leave the drain valves in the 45 degrees position, to avoid any chance of frost damage inside the valve. The thing I tend to forget are any bottles of liquid (juice, beer) left inside the van.
Also, on the engine side, remember that the wiper fluid should have antifreeze.
 
Kingfisher said:
Nothing wrong with running a (safe) electric heater. You can be assured however, that a properly drained Cali is quite frost proof.

Some experts advise to leave the drain valves in the 45 degrees position, to avoid any chance of frost damage inside the valve. The thing I tend to forget are any bottles of liquid (juice, beer) left inside the van.
Also, on the engine side, remember that the wiper fluid should have antifreeze.
Click to expand...
Yes well hence the oil filled radiator rather than a convection or fan heater. They're hardly powerhouses of heat but that's not really needed in this situation - I use one to keep the temp above 10 degrees in our utility room (inside the garage) so the fridge-freezer works properly.

Nice tip on the valves too - my routine would be to fully open to drain, then reset to 45 degrees. Nice idea . . . .

Not sure where the water pump itself is - inside the water tank I assume. Does that drain out as part of the tap draining procedure?
 
And drain the header tank in the porta potti if you have one, or move it into your house/garage.
 
I read about the "handbook" is there actually a handbook? as I never received one when I purchased my California (new)? Infact all I got was a receipt?
 
Kevintube1979 said:
I read about the "handbook" is there actually a handbook? as I never received one when I purchased my California (new)? Infact all I got was a receipt?
Click to expand...
There should be at least 3 Handbooks.
1. A generic Transporter Handbook.
2. A specific California Handbook all about the Habitation equipment.
3. A Handbook about the In Car Entertainment system.
 
WelshGas said:
There should be at least 3 Handbooks.
1. A generic Transporter Handbook.
2. A specific California Handbook all about the Habitation equipment.
3. A Handbook about the In Car Entertainment system.
Click to expand...
Ok thanks for this...maybe I should contact the dealer although its old now (19) and they probably wont be interested ...would be good to have though.
 

Attachments

  • Supliment.pdf
    6.2 MB · Views: 66
The California supplement manual is massive. I remarked on it when I took delivery of the vehicle and also remarked that I assumed it contained two dozen languages to justify the size . . . nope, it's all in English!
 
RockinNRollin said:
The California supplement manual is massive. I remarked on it when I took delivery of the vehicle and also remarked that I assumed it contained two dozen languages to justify the size . . . nope, it's all in English!
Click to expand...
Yours is the T6.1 California Supplement. Lots of changes between T6 and T6.1 regarding the Camping features.

Minimal changes between T5 and 6 regarding the camping features
 
Really wish there was a 12v solution of a heat pad that kept around 4 degrees that could be put down the side and on top of the water tank.
The. solar could trickle the battery’s over winter and the battery’s feed the heat pads to bypass the need of emptying the water for winter.
Such a PIA
 
Californication69 said:
Really wish there was a 12v solution of a heat pad that kept around 4 degrees that could be put down the side and on top of the water tank.
The. solar could trickle the battery’s over winter and the battery’s feed the heat pads to bypass the need of emptying the water for winter.
Such a PIA
Click to expand...
Heat energy requirements are high though - it would quickly gobble the battery power I suspect.
 
RockinNRollin said:
Heat energy requirements are high though - it would quickly gobble the battery power I suspect.
Click to expand...
I thought electric under blanket were really good with lower electric usage ?
 
RockinNRollin said:
Not sure where the water pump itself is - inside the water tank I assume. Does that drain out as part of the tap draining procedure?
Click to expand...
Yes. It is a simple submergible pump inside the water tank, attached to the end of the supply pipe. By removing the fuse or unplugging the electrical connection, you also prevent any inadvertent activation of the pump while it’s dry (which might overheat and destroy it). So best to keep it removed/unplugged over the winter, IMO.
 
Kingfisher said:
Yes. It is a simple submergible pump inside the water tank, attached to the end of the supply pipe. By removing the fuse or unplugging the electrical connection, you also prevent any inadvertent activation of the pump while it’s dry (which might overheat and destroy it). So best to keep it removed/unplugged over the winter, IMO.
Click to expand...
I've had the pump apparently empty before now when the water tank has been empty between trips and refilled - it whirrs for a few seconds before it picks up water. Is it supposed to be primed?
 
RockinNRollin said:
I've had the pump apparently empty before now when the water tank has been empty between trips and refilled - it whirrs for a few seconds before it picks up water. Is it supposed to be primed?
Click to expand...
Just a few seconds or even longer is normal behaviour, no problem. I should have been more clear: with the water tank empty, someone might leave the kitchen tap turned on without noticing. The pump could then run dry for hours or maybe days, and that would lead to failure. I seem to remember reading about such a case on here.

On second thought: many people leave the tank empty between trips. So maybe it's just me that prefers the tap and pump non-operable when the tank is empty (for me only in winter).
 
WelshGas said:
You remove the tap/pump fuse, or unplug the tap electrical connection under the sink, and open the tap. This drains the tap and supply pipe back to the tank. Similarly with the shower connection.
Click to expand...
Does the manual suggest you do this?, I can’t find it? (T6.1).
 
Last edited:
WelshGas said:
Maybe VW want to sell more taps each spring.

Thats what was stated on the T5/6.. Maybe there is a different method on the T6.1, but I can’t see how.
Click to expand...
I agree what you say makes sense but had a look in the cupboard and I imagine I would break the clip TBH as it’s a bit of an awkward spot.
 
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