MPG seems very low. Ave 21-27mpg

Hi. Year 2019. 34k miles. 17 inch standard wheels. Tyre pressure 44 as recommended
Which Memory are you using for MPG?
Memory 1 = MPG for the trip / trips until Ignition Off.
Memory 2 = MPG for 20,000 miles.

On MFD screen Top R is a 1 or 2 that can be changed by steering wheel control or Reset by pressing OK.

No account is made of Diesel usage by the Parking Heater or Diesel Coolant Heater when calculating MPG.

MFD fuel calculation can under read by 5+%.
Brim to Brim is more accurate but will not include Heater usage.
 
Might be worth considering a TVS DSG Gearbox remap to give better gear selection.

I have remapped engine "255PS" & DSG Stage 2 remap and get 23>27 on short runs with 33+ mpg over longer runs.

DSG Stage 2 remap stopped it chugging at low revs as now about 1750rpm before using a higher gear.

Costly process that wouldn't pay for itself but gives better driving with the DSG driveability only remap.

Traffic lights and roundabouts kill mpg figures as getting nearly 3 tonnes off the mark is energy absorbing, never actually stopping pays fuel dividends.
 
Might be worth considering a TVS DSG Gearbox remap to give better gear selection.

I have remapped engine "255PS" & DSG Stage 2 remap and get 23>27 on short runs with 33+ mpg over longer runs.

DSG Stage 2 remap stopped it chugging at low revs as now about 1750rpm before using a higher gear.

Costly process that wouldn't pay for itself but gives better driving with the DSG driveability only remap.

Traffic lights and roundabouts kill mpg figures as getting nearly 3 tonnes off the mark is energy absorbing, never actually stopping pays fuel dividends.
I concur. All the remaps I have done on several Audi's and a VW Corrado all returned higher mpg numbers. Usually 5-10%. I will likely do same when my warranty expires in just over a year. At least a DSG remap.
 
I have to admit I find the DSG in the Cali much more sleepy than those in other VAG cars I've driven/owned. My biggest bugbear is the eagerness to go to 2nd at barely walking pace, then dragging the clutch(es) as a result.
 
I concur. All the remaps I have done on several Audi's and a VW Corrado all returned higher mpg numbers. Usually 5-10%. I will likely do same when my warranty expires in just over a year. At least a DSG remap.
I noticed that TVS now do a combined engine and dsg remap.
Only had dsg offering when I did it.

T6.1 can't have engine remap not sure about dsg but would think that can still be done.
 
Might be worth considering a TVS DSG Gearbox remap to give better gear selection.

I have remapped engine "255PS" & DSG Stage 2 remap and get 23>27 on short runs with 33+ mpg over longer runs.

DSG Stage 2 remap stopped it chugging at low revs as now about 1750rpm before using a higher gear.

Costly process that wouldn't pay for itself but gives better driving with the DSG driveability only remap.

Traffic lights and roundabouts kill mpg figures as getting nearly 3 tonnes off the mark is energy absorbing, never actually stopping pays fuel dividends.
I am booked in BMVS early Jan for TVS DSG Map and Revo Stage 1 engine map, did a lot of research, and seems a good idea!
 
I am booked in BMVS early Jan for TVS DSG Map and Revo Stage 1 engine map, did a lot of research, and seems a good idea!

are they a Pendle agent ? Pendle worked wonders with my Sprinter. Considering getting my Cali done as well
 
Which Memory are you using for MPG?
Memory 1 = MPG for the trip / trips until Ignition Off.
Memory 2 = MPG for 20,000 miles.

On MFD screen Top R is a 1 or 2 that can be changed by steering wheel control or Reset by pressing OK.
You don't get Memory 1 & 2 on a T6.1. Ocean or a MFD for that matter.
You do however get the following:

IMG_1852.jpegIMG_1853.jpegIMG_1854.jpeg
 
Well, having owned a 6.1 150 and more recently a 6.1 204 4-motion I actually did some tests and comparisons, as far as I can be consistent with conditions and roads. I was planning to do a video about it but realised I had more interesting things to spend my time on... however, I just dug out my notes...

The comparison was the two vans under the same routes, multiple trips average for each use case. I also did trips driving like an old man vs driving like I was 20 again to see how much the driving style affected things... so here we go...(Betty Boo is the 150, Hunter is the 204 4-motion)

obviously traffic conditions did vary as did weather, hence averages. Take from it what you will, more fun than science.

Averages mpg across multiple runs of each:
6 mile journey A from cold - Betty Boo 37.3 mpg Hunter 33.8mpg

warm engine:
Road 1 - BB - 37.7 Hunter - 35.3
Road 2 - BB - 48 Hunter - 36.4
Hill 1 + constant 28mph - BB - 18.2 Hunter - 17.3

Teenage me vs Old me (extremes of driving techniques)
Road 1 - BB Old - 37.7 BB Teen - 27.1
Road 1 - Hunter Old - 35.3 Hunter Teen - 23.2
Road 2 - BB Old - 48 BB Teen - 34
Road 2 - Hunter Old - 36.4 Hunter Teen - 23

So, from this broadly speaking my 150 is 10-20% more fuel efficient vs my 204 4motion (same wheels and tires by the way - I transferred them)
My driving style is a more significant difference, possibly 30%.

All that said, for my normal driving over several tank fills (albeit sometimes longer runs included)... Betty Boo 34.3mpg Hunter 32mpg - so I'm quite pleased with that.

Short runs can be as low as 18-22 mpg, longer runs can be 40 even in the 4-motion as long as I don't floor it.

Finally, I recently had Koni shocks fitted... while it does make things smoother and removes much of the roll, there is a downside - I have found myself driving significantly faster as a result of the subconscious feeling of more stability round corners etc... hence I have lost mpg as a result of more comfort.

I am glad that I finally did something with that data - drive slower, less time on the pedal and longer runs will give you into the 40 mpgs even with a 4-motion (I have the diff lock too by the way which also adds weight). Drive like a teenager, short journeys and you could easily be 15mpg I would say. Stating the obvious really.

(a shout out to @Delian - a buddy of mine that just got his first Cali. Please everyone say hello to him, he is very shy :) ).

Hunter: Screenshot_20231215-202847.png
 
@Delian it’s customary to start a new thread with an intro amc a few photos of the van , a bit of history about your VW , camping , history etc etc

looking forward to welcoming you via your first post
 
Well, having owned a 6.1 150 and more recently a 6.1 204 4-motion I actually did some tests and comparisons, as far as I can be consistent with conditions and roads. I was planning to do a video about it but realised I had more interesting things to spend my time on... however, I just dug out my notes...

The comparison was the two vans under the same routes, multiple trips average for each use case. I also did trips driving like an old man vs driving like I was 20 again to see how much the driving style affected things... so here we go...(Betty Boo is the 150, Hunter is the 204 4-motion)

obviously traffic conditions did vary as did weather, hence averages. Take from it what you will, more fun than science.

Averages mpg across multiple runs of each:
6 mile journey A from cold - Betty Boo 37.3 mpg Hunter 33.8mpg

warm engine:
Road 1 - BB - 37.7 Hunter - 35.3
Road 2 - BB - 48 Hunter - 36.4
Hill 1 + constant 28mph - BB - 18.2 Hunter - 17.3

Teenage me vs Old me (extremes of driving techniques)
Road 1 - BB Old - 37.7 BB Teen - 27.1
Road 1 - Hunter Old - 35.3 Hunter Teen - 23.2
Road 2 - BB Old - 48 BB Teen - 34
Road 2 - Hunter Old - 36.4 Hunter Teen - 23

So, from this broadly speaking my 150 is 10-20% more fuel efficient vs my 204 4motion (same wheels and tires by the way - I transferred them)
My driving style is a more significant difference, possibly 30%.

All that said, for my normal driving over several tank fills (albeit sometimes longer runs included)... Betty Boo 34.3mpg Hunter 32mpg - so I'm quite pleased with that.

Short runs can be as low as 18-22 mpg, longer runs can be 40 even in the 4-motion as long as I don't floor it.

Finally, I recently had Koni shocks fitted... while it does make things smoother and removes much of the roll, there is a downside - I have found myself driving significantly faster as a result of the subconscious feeling of more stability round corners etc... hence I have lost mpg as a result of more comfort.

I am glad that I finally did something with that data - drive slower, less time on the pedal and longer runs will give you into the 40 mpgs even with a 4-motion (I have the diff lock too by the way which also adds weight). Drive like a teenager, short journeys and you could easily be 15mpg I would say. Stating the obvious really.

(a shout out to @Delian - a buddy of mine that just got his first Cali. Please everyone say hello to him, he is very shy :) ).

Hunter: View attachment 117355

Thank you for all that data.

It confirms my statement earlier, it's not what you drive but how you drive it.

I'm just venturing into the world of an Auto 177bhp LWB (680) MAN TGE and that is certainly teaching me how to maximise the fuel consumption figures by accelerating gently and anticipating the need to brake especially as its auto gearbox (not DSG) can be encouraged to provide very little engine braking when it's not required.
 
Why I wouldn’t have a 4 motion I see v few times when u need it. Tuck the electric wing mirrors in.
 
Why I wouldn’t have a 4 motion I see v few times when u need it. Tuck the electric wing mirrors in.
4 motion offers a lot more than just helping to get you off a muddy field. Its a dynamic system, continuously working in the background, that provides optimal road handling and traction, eliminates front wheel spin etc. Given the choice it would always be on my options list.
 
4 motion offers a lot more than just helping to get you off a muddy field. Its a dynamic system, continuously working in the background, that provides optimal road handling and traction, eliminates front wheel spin etc. Given the choice it would always be on my options list.
I agree and it has come in very handy for me getting out of muddy fields and down muddy tracks in woods, especially combined with my Agilis Crossclimate tires i just feel more assured.. Of course not everyone will hit these conditions often enough to warrant it, and there is a sacrifice with fuel.. In fairness i probably didn't need the diff lock as well and never used it yet (or needed my mud tracks except stacked for levelling).
 
On a different bit vaguely related tack........ I had a Discovery in 2011 and when we were touring around the Outer Hebrides we would always enjoy coming across a steep winding rutted lane down to the beach, selecting low gear, diff lock etc and driving down the track................................... only to find at the bottom ................. a VW T2 campervan that seemed to always be going the same way we were! There it was..... old, 2WD and managed every road we did!

I do fully accept the value and credentials of 4WD and owned them for quite a few years but (particularly after spending 3 months in the desert in Wadi Rum, Jordan....driving a 4WD Nissan believing I was in 4WD and blissfully unaware that I wasn't :eek:) I have concluded that in many cases the notion of having 4WD acts like a placebo and can lead to either unnecessary trust or dependancy.

Yup, there will be places that my 2WD Coast won't go..... but there are so many more that it will :thumb
 
Why I wouldn’t have a 4 motion I see v few times when u need it.
Need & want are two very different things, I bet you don’t actually need a Cali?
The 4 motion comes into use every time you need to pull off quickly. Especially if the roads are damp.
 
A 3 ton van heavily loaded, and frequently according to many threads on the Forum a lot of weight behind the rear axle, with FWD.
Explains why many have front tyres wearing more than rear.
On my 4MOTION equal tyre wear front to rear ns/on. There is a lot to be said for permanent and variable awd drive on such a vehicle.
Totally different drive to a vehicle with selectable awd/fwd or awd/rwd.
 
A 3 ton van heavily loaded, and frequently according to many threads on the Forum a lot of weight behind the rear axle, with FWD.
Explains why many have front tyres wearing more than rear.
On my 4MOTION equal tyre wear front to rear ns/on. There is a lot to be said for permanent and variable awd drive on such a vehicle.
Totally different drive to a vehicle with selectable awd/fwd or awd/rwd.
I agree, though I'm referring to a Mercedes 4-Matic GLA.

It was only having become used to that permanent 4WD, that when the garage gave me a rear wheel drive C Class as a courtesy car and I started fishtailing up a wet road with a very slight incline that I'd driven daily for years with no issues in the 4-Matic, that I realised just how much grip you take for granted in any permanent 4WD.

It's not that a 2WD can't make it, but rather that the grip, control and overall safety, especially at speed is so much greater in a 4WD.

Mercedes and BMW rear wheel drives are the worst for this in my experience. Rear wheels spinning at the first sign of rain / ice any slight incline or God forbid, mud.
 
I have a T6 Beach, 2018, 204PS, 4motion DSG, 255 tyres.

The mpg you're getting looks right to me, i.e. at least comparable to what I see. Agree I was expecting better fuel efficiency before buying the car, but I guess 4motion and the stronger engine take its toll.

l/100 kmmpgcalc. over kmscalc. over milesdispl. l/100 kmavg. km/havg. mphtyres
9.230.78755449.13521.7summer
8.33413978688.34930.4summer
8.732.56504048.64528summer
7.935.8178311087.86137.9summer
9.828.87954949.44226.1winter

When running errands around town, the display often shows around 12-13 l/100km (~22 mpg).
 
I agree and it has come in very handy for me getting out of muddy fields and down muddy tracks in woods, especially combined with my Agilis Crossclimate tires i just feel more assured.. Of course not everyone will hit these conditions often enough to warrant it, and there is a sacrifice with fuel.. In fairness i probably didn't need the diff lock as well and never used it yet (or needed my mud tracks except stacked for levelling).
Remember to engage the diff lock a few times a year (if you don't already) just to keep the mechanism from seizing up.
 
I have a reminder every quarter, on my phone.
Switch heater on for an hour and engage Difflock.
 

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