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New van - snagging/To do list

Twunt

Twunt

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Kent
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Looking to buy
Due to collect a new 6.1 ocean 4motion next week and was trying to find a list of what to do first, i.e:-

Aquatex the bellows (cant be bothered to wait for it to leak)

wondered if there was any other should do's before using it ?
 
Remove the wheels (one at a time) and apply a light smear of anti-seize compound like coppaslip to the central hub spigot and flat mating surfaces on each hub. Just keep the compound well away from the wheel bolts or threads in the hub.

it will make changing a wheel so much easier if you need to at the side of a busy road. They have a well documented habit of being very difficult to separate due to corrosion between the alloy rim and the hub. Even just a few months from being new.
 
I believe there is a pickup checklist in the VIP area. I just made my own and went front to back top to bottom and checked everything over. Took me about an hour. Important for me was to check “argue” areas. Body and paintwork.
 
I believe there is a pickup checklist in the VIP area. I just made my own and went front to back top to bottom and checked everything over. Took me about an hour. Important for me was to check “argue” areas. Body and paintwork.
Thanks, it's not really a checklist I'm after but more of tips on what to do to improve it once received
 
Thanks, it's not really a checklist I'm after but more of tips on what to do to improve it once received
Ah. Well. Everyone will have their own list here. We lined the cupboards with Ikea cutlery draw liner to quieten them down and I used loom tape anywhere that was or could rattle. Spend some time in it. You’ll work out what bugs you and what you can live with. Anything rattling drives me crackers.
 
Here’s a few things to consider.

Work out what the various bits do that come in plastic bags, and think where to store them. E.g. table support strap, emergency hold down kit for roof, 12v socket torch, anti tamper wheel nut.

The dealer provided us with a little bright yellow pouch for our wheel nut which we keep in the glove compartment along with the water cap key (a tip from friends who rent out their van, so no one ever gets confused between the water fill point and diesel fill!).

Find out where the wheel jack is, and depending on your wheel size, the compressor and foam gadget or your spare. If you’ve a spare, consider fitting a lock.

“Lubricate” the sliding roof hatch door. Ours was very stiff from the off. It should move easily as otherwise you’ll be cursing it to open, and if it flies open suddenly you risk breaking the end of the track where a screw and nut acts as the end-stop (like we did - since managed to fix it). We use Autoglym plastic and rubber cleaner - works a dream and it isn’t messy.

Check the dealer has filled the ad blue tank. Ours didn’t so we had about 2k range. I filled it and we then had 18k range - enough for a year or more without worrying.

If your window blinds are stiff to pull down - DO NOT try and lubricate the mechanism in any way - you’ll regret it (yes, been there done that!).

Get some protection on the VERY expensive folding topper that you’ll no doubt have got for the downstairs bed and sits on the multiflex board. A replacement would set you back lots of dosh so it pays to protect.

In the boot - find some foam sheeting etc to protect the sides of the van (easily scratched surfaces) from whatever you put in the boot, and some mats for the floor to stop stuff shifting around.

In the cabin, get a rubber mat set. Not glamorous but very practical / necessary in our view.

Get rubber inserts for the front doors steps and the sliding door step. The light grey plastic gets easily scratched and scuffed without them (a van we had hired looked pretty beaten up and it had only done 1600 miles). Double sided tape to fix.

Seat protector covers? Your choice.

Fridge bottom ‘trivet’ - cheap via amazon - see forum posts for link.

Flush out fresh water tank well. This also checks the tank drain has been properly aligned in the factory and it doesn’t flood your boot.

There’s probably more , but the above comes from our experience.
 
Check the rear control panel hasn’t been fitted upside down
 
Due to collect a new 6.1 ocean 4motion next week and was trying to find a list of what to do first, i.e:-

Aquatex the bellows (cant be bothered to wait for it to leak)

wondered if there was any other should do's before using it ?
Drive it and read the Handbooks, particularly the California supplement.
 
Work out what the various bits do that come in plastic bags, and think where to store them. E.g. table support strap, emergency hold down kit for roof, 12v socket torch, anti tamper wheel nut.
Where did you find best place?
 
We probably went over the top…
- carpets in the front, rear and garage
- decide on sleeping kit - e.g. duvet, sheets, Duvalay etc.
- Sparesafe if you’re bothered about the spare being pinched
- Cover/protect tables - Pixers
- Solar panels
- EcoFlow Delta 2 power generator - fits between front seats
- Seat covers
- Tint rear windows
- White gaffer tape to help with rattles
- PTFE spray on window/door runners
 
I see several people talking about the EcoFlow Delta 2.

What do people use these for??
 
I see several people talking about the EcoFlow Delta 2.

What do people use these for??
Any time you are not on hook-up and want to run mains powered devices EcoFlow is brilliant. The built in inverter is limited (300w) and not great for sensitive equipment (doesn't have a pure sine wave inverter). So for those wanting an off-grid office, (or like us wanting to boil a camping kettle or make some toast without hooking up the gas!) they are essential.
 
I fitted some helicopter/3M clear tape in the dish behind sliding door handle and also under rear door catch to prevent scratching from nails!!! You'll be surprised how scratched it can get. I also put a 75mm band across bottom of tailgate - most folk pull tailgate down by pulling on this edge and it scratches easily when dirty - you can hardly see the tape. You can get really cheap anti-slip/rattle matting off eBay for drawers and dash pockets - think I paid £5.49 for grey 150 x 30 cm strip. Works superb. Think about how to fill your water tank at home and clean it - real pain having tap 25m away so bought short section of potable water hose with rubber tap connector and use a 2 litre squash bottle to fill with - doesn't take long and costs £3. On sites simply use the hose with connector.
I also went for a 100W solar panel from Solar Camper Solutions - excellent and works a joy if you don't need to charge laptops or have TV etc. Over a cloudy weekend with fridge on and charging phones etc my battery still read 12.9V
 
In the old days i had an electrical connector that mimicked a bayonet cap lamp so I could have a shave in a phone box, unfortunately most phone boxes are no longer connected to electrical supplies.
Perhaps you could fix an inductor coil to the bottom of your campers and park where the scooters are charged on the pavement for a free recharge.
 
Remove the wheels (one at a time) and apply a light smear of anti-seize compound like coppaslip to the central hub spigot and flat mating surfaces on each hub. Just keep the compound well away from the wheel bolts or threads in the hub.

it will make changing a wheel so much easier if you need to at the side of a busy road. They have a well documented habit of being very difficult to separate due to corrosion between the alloy rim and the hub. Even just a few months from being new.
This is a very good advice indeed!!
 
Any time you are not on hook-up and want to run mains powered devices EcoFlow is brilliant. The built in inverter is limited (300w) and not great for sensitive equipment (doesn't have a pure sine wave inverter). So for those wanting an off-grid office, (or like us wanting to boil a camping kettle or make some toast without hooking up the gas!) they are essential.
I'm interested in the EcoFlow and have been looking on their website. The Mk1 is £549 but the Mk2 is £899. Do you know what the differences are between the two?
 

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