Outer Hebrides

[Skylark2.0]

Thanks Skylark. Just watched the kayak companies video. Stunning photography!
Thanks for the tips. I'm loving this Christmas holiday time to do research and plan.

Did you see Puffins? I've read that you can go on a boat trip. I wonder if there is any way of doing it with a dog?

I've seen puffins on Staffa but you need a diffent trip for that!

 

[Aidy P]

Try the Treshnish Isles for Puffins. We got a boat from Tobermory on Mull.

Ahh, Puffin Dive Centre. Probably best I keep my views about them to myself Fantastic diving though. Hispania was always one of my favourites.

Interesting. I used Puffin...wouldn't again. But that's for a diving forum. Thanks for the tip

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

We’re in the enjoyable planning stage of a trip to the Western Isles in September or October. Any recommendations/tips will be warmly welcomed.

 

[Borris]

We’re in the enjoyable planning stage of a trip to the Western Isles in September or October. Any recommendations/tips will be warmly welcomed.

We did the same in October 2015. Great time of year to do it. No midges!

My only suggestion would be to book your ferry crossings in advance. We didn't bother and were lucky on all but one crossing. Because we couldn't get on the ferry from Skye to North Uist we wanted we didn't have time to visit Barra. The local businesses block book the ferries to ensure a crossing when they need it. They may not turn up so you may be ok but don't bank on it. I expect tourist traffic will be higher this year post lock down so make sure to book early.

Oh and if driving at night in the highlands be very careful as it will be the rutting season and there are often road traffic incidents involving deer crossing without warning from the darkness. You will see the evidence on the road from time to time. A large beast darting into your path could cause considerable damage to both parties or worse .

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

We did the same in October 2015. Great time of year to do it. No midges!

My only suggestion would be to book your ferry crossings in advance. We didn't bother and were lucky on all but one crossing. Because we couldn't get on the ferry from Skye to North Uist we wanted we didn't have time to visit Barra. The local businesses block book the ferries to ensure a crossing when they need it. They may not turn up so you may be ok but don't bank on it. I expect tourist traffic will be higher this year post lock down so make sure to book early.

Oh and if driving at night in the highlands be very careful as it will be the rutting season and there are often road traffic incidents involving deer crossing without warning from the darkness. You will see the evidence on the road from time to time. A large beast darting into your path could cause considerable damage to both parties or worse .

Good advice @Borris

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

We did the same in October 2015. Great time of year to do it. No midges!

My only suggestion would be to book your ferry crossings in advance. We didn't bother and were lucky on all but one crossing. Because we couldn't get on the ferry from Skye to North Uist we wanted we didn't have time to visit Barra. The local businesses block book the ferries to ensure a crossing when they need it. They may not turn up so you may be ok but don't bank on it. I expect tourist traffic will be higher this year post lock down so make sure to book early.

Oh and if driving at night in the highlands be very careful as it will be the rutting season and there are often road traffic incidents involving deer crossing without warning from the darkness. You will see the evidence on the road from time to time. A large beast darting into your path could cause considerable damage to both parties or worse .

How long was your trip there?

 

[Borris]

How long was your trip there?

From memory ten days.
Day 1. Left home (Canterbury) in the evening and wild camped in the early hours near the Scottish border.
Day 2. Drove up through Scotland to the West Coast and wild camped near Ullapool in Wester Ross.
Day 3. Followed the single track coast road round to Applecross. I think the road was part of the NC500. Camped in the Applecross campsite. We had a good evening meal in a nice cafe/restaurant in the walled garden of a large country house about a mile away. You can't really miss it.
Day 4. Up over the Applecross pass (not to be missed) and on to the Isle of Skye. Tip: drive up the east side of the island until you reach the hamlet of Brogaig then turn left towards Uig. This narrow road is often featured on motoring programs for a reason. It takes you on a wonderful drive up over the back bone of the island. Done it twice both times in October/November time. Utterly stunning drive.
The ferry from Uig to North Uist was full so spent the night at the campsite next to the harbour. Very cold, shower block wasn't heated and the light didn't work. Had a nice evening meal at the cafe on the harbour.
Day 5. Took morning ferry to North Uist. Took a slow drive down through North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay then after some sight seeing retraced our steps and spent the night in a Hotel on Benbecula. Because we couldn't get on the previous evenings ferry from Uig to North Uist we didn't think we had sufficient time to take the ferry to Barra.
Day 6. Drove through North Uist and took the ferry to Harris. A very interesting crossing with the ferry constantly weaving this way and that to avoid the rocks. Drove up the East coast of Harris on the single track road. Again utterly stunning and a very different landscape to the other islands so far. Purchased some obligatory Harris merch. Spent the night in the Harris Hotel. Nice meal. Wall to wall tartan everywhere.
Day 7. Drove on into Lewis. Did more sightseeing. Tried to visit the Black Houses but they had just shut for the season. Arrived at Stornoway early evening and tried to book a ferry to Ullapool on the main land. There wasn't one until the next day but we did manage to drive straight onto a nearlly empty HGV RORO ferry that was just leaving. Smelt of rotting fish on the vehicle deck. Only about 3 or 4 other drivers on board. The steward cooked us a great meal then I slept all the way across.. Arrived in Mallaig around midnight and drove on eventually stopping to wild camp somewhere in the Cairngorms.
Day 8. Drove down through Edinborough, the Borders etc and stopped at the Caravan and Motorhome site in York. Snotty warden who left notes on the windscreen demanding we parked the other way round. Ignored him.
Day 9. Also in York. Guzzled tea and cake in Bettys
Day 10. Drove back home to Canterbury.

 

[Jonathan Duke]

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/christmas-in-the-hebrides-lewis-and-harris-probably.27481/

We enjoyed a Christmas and New Year trip, thread above.

 

[Erbster]

Concur with Borris above, especially re ferries. We had a similar experience. I’d add that the “machair” is a highlight and worth seeing in summer when it’s in full flower. Tempting to just drive into the grass to wild camp, but this is a very fragile ecosystem. We had little trouble with little biters. If you like whisky, a visit to the Abhain Dearg distillery is a must. Lots of wild-ish sites with honesty boxes. Magic place. Here’s our blog: https://caliventures364847572.wordpress.com/2019/08/02/scurrival/

 

[YesCampervan]

R doo Tim
I'm bi lingual these days and I talk slower to help them understand....and lived darn here 16 years or so!!
Cheers for the info. Def always wanted to do the Mallaig to Inverie ferry and hike it around Knoydart - next on my wish list! Skye always looks amazing and will be a must for us I hope this year.
Cheers
Paul

I have done many trips to the islands before we had the Cali. Jura, Isla, Barra, Pabbay (small uninhabited island via private boat for rock climbing), Lewis , Harris. Skye. They are all fabulous, however I did also get the ferry from Mallaig to Tarbet, stayed a night at the ‘bunk house’ converted church in the beach with a very old guy as a host who played the accordion. Anyway, we then walked out to Glenfinnan and stayed in a couple of bothies on the way. It was a little bit snowy and probably the most spectacular 2 day hike I have ever done, very remote feeling, walking down one of the Glenn’s felt like something from Lord of the rings.

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

From memory ten days.
Day 1. Left home (Canterbury) in the evening and wild camped in the early hours near the Scottish border.
Day 2. Drove up through Scotland to the West Coast and wild camped near Mallaig in Wester Ross.
Day 3. Followed the single track coast road round to Applecross. I think the road was part of the NC500. Camped in the Applecross campsite. We had a good evening meal in a nice cafe/restaurant in the walled garden of a large country house about a mile away. You can't really miss it.
Day 4. Up over the Applecross pass (not to be missed) and on to the Isle of Skye. Tip: drive up the east side of the island until you reach the hamlet of Brogaig then turn left towards Uig. This narrow road is often featured on motoring programs for a reason. It takes you on a wonderful drive up over the back bone of the island. Done it twice both times in October/November time. Utterly stunning drive.
The ferry from Uig to North Uist was full so spent the night at the campsite next to the harbour. Very cold, shower block wasn't heated and the light didn't work. Had a nice evening meal at the cafe on the harbour.
Day 5. Took morning ferry to North Uist. Took a slow drive down through North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist and Eriskay then after some sight seeing retraced our steps and spent the night in a Hotel on Benbecula. Because we couldn't get on the previous evenings ferry from Uig to North Uist we didn't think we had sufficient time to take the ferry to Barra.
Day 6. Drove through North Uist and took the ferry to Harris. A very interesting crossing with the ferry constantly weaving this way and that to avoid the rocks. Drove up the East coast of Harris on the single track road. Again utterly stunning and a very different landscape to the other islands so far. Purchased some obligatory Harris merch. Spent the night in the Harris Hotel. Nice meal. Wall to wall tartan everywhere.
Day 7. Drove on into Lewis. Did more sightseeing. Tried to visit the Black Houses but they had just shut for the season. Arrived at Stornoway early evening and tried to book a ferry to Mallaig on the main land. There wasn't one until the next day but we did manage to drive straight onto a nearlly empty HGV RORO ferry that was just leaving. Smelt of rotting fish on the vehicle deck. Only about 3 or 4 other drivers on board. The steward cooked us a great meal then I slept all the way across.. Arrived in Mallaig around midnight and drove on eventually stopping to wild camp somewhere in the Cairngorms.
Day 8. Drove down through Edinborough, the Borders etc and stopped at the Caravan and Motorhome site in York. Snotty warden who left notes on the windscreen demanding we parked the other way round. Ignored him.
Day 9. Also in York. Guzzled tea and cake in Bettys
Day 10. Drove back home to Canterbury.

Useful info @Borris
Our outline plan is to take the ferry from Oban to Barra, work our way up through the islands and then a return ferry to Ullapool or maybe Uig.

 

[johna]

Definitely book your ferries and campsites. Currently Cal Mac ask you not to book ferries without overnight bookings and the authorities ask you to take flow tests before arrival. Many years ago before there were many campsites we camped on the machair but that’s no longer appropriate.

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

All sorted
Ferries booked and most campsites. Just waiting for a couple of sites to get back to me. Fingers crossed the Covid situation doesn’t worsen and ruin the plan.

 

[Charlotterobin]

https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/christmas-in-the-hebrides-lewis-and-harris-probably.27481/

We enjoyed a Christmas and New Year trip, thread above.

JD please can you DM me? I'd like to chat ta

 

[Borris]

Useful info @Borris
Our outline plan is to take the ferry from Oban to Barra, work our way up through the islands and then a return ferry to Ullapool or maybe Uig.

Grey matter error: For Mallaig read Ullapool.

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

Grey matter error: For Mallaig read Ullapool.

I have plenty of those @Borris
All campsites now booked, so fingers (and everything else) crossed that Covid restrictions on travel to Scotland aren’t reimposed.

 

[Borris]

I have plenty of those @Borris
All campsites now booked, so fingers (and everything else) crossed that Covid restrictions on travel to Scotland aren’t reimposed.

You'll have a great time.