Removing lid of water tank to clean it

So it's the big one, not the small one.

I've been doing it all wrong then...
 
Finally managed to get the lid off.
Been trying to get the inner one out all the time.

Constructed a selfmade tool mentioned in earlier posts to get the job done.

Thanks for all the help.
:thumb
 
Good morning, I need to get at my water pump because it is working on and off.
Can someone tell me the best way to access it?Water Tank 1.jpg Water Tank 2.jpg
 
You need to unscrew the cap and lift the pump out
 
Thought I would open the Water level hatch as I occasionally have false readings.

Tap tap tap to release and unscrew the hatch and the festoon bulb in the boot goes out :(.
Opened the hatch to find the float was moving up and down freely and the tank was spotless.
So I think I will leave it and order a new bulb.:rolleyes:

Update !! No problem it was just the timer on the lights. Just coincidental it happened while I was tapping. Lights are all good and bulb not blown :)
 
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I used a basin spanner found unused in my toolbox. Off in 20 seconds.

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Tool for unscrewing water tank lid available from Club Shop.
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/shop/product/water-tank-lid-opening-tool-vw-california-seocean
water-tank-opening-tool.jpg
 
I myself tried everything and at last being completely despaired, constructed this: (which helped immediately)

View attachment 7545

I made this water tank top bung removal tool today after the little yellow chap snapped like a carrot when I was trying to pull (straight!) the water feed hose to the sink off the tank outlet.

Worked a treat: 2-off dia. 20mm dowels protruding 15mm, and on 96mm centres, in a piece of 12mm thick ply ca. 320mm long.


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0A8EA55F-993D-4311-BAEE-5AA00AB9FFB3.jpeg
 
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Unless you have a need to access the pump or level gauge to replace, as per recommendation from @WelshGas I personally would not remove the access lid. Cleaning the tank can be done adequately by using Milton and flushing. Keeping the system closed is a good start to retaining a hygienic installation. By unnecessarily accessing the tank you may cause more problems than you solve. For instance if you hear the pump run but there’s no water flow, the issue is most likely an air lock rather than a fault with the pump.

 
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Unless you have a need to access the pump or level gauge to replace, as per recommendation from @WelshGas I personally would not remove the access lid. Cleaning the tank can be done adequately by using Milton and flushing. Keeping the system closed is a good start to retaining a hygienic installation. By unnecessarily accessing the tank you may cause more problems than you solve. For instance if you hear the pump run but there’s no water flow, the issue is most likely an air lock rather than a fault with the pump.

Any tips on how to remove an airlock if that's the problem?
 
Yep,
Any tips on how to remove an airlock if that's the problem
Yes - suck the tap ! Cup your lips over the end of the tap with the pump running, and suck. Someone else on the forum suggested this trick and it worked for me. I’d also remove the filling cap to minimise any negative head on the pump (ie vacuum).
 
Yep,

Yes - suck the tap ! Cup your lips over the end of the tap with the pump running, and suck. Someone else on the forum suggested this trick and it worked for me. I’d also remove the filling cap to minimise any negative head on the pump (ie vacuum).
Thank you very much! Yes that worked and managed to suck some water through the tap. But the pump still didn't kick in unfortunately...

The pump doesn't make a whirring noise anymore when I open the tap. The tap just makes a faint click and then I get an error message in the overhead console. I checked the 5 amp fuses under the passenger seat and they seem ok. So guess that means the problem must be with the pump itself...?
 
Thank you very much! Yes that worked and managed to suck some water through the tap. But the pump still didn't kick in unfortunately...

The pump doesn't make a whirring noise anymore when I open the tap. The tap just makes a faint click and then I get an error message in the overhead console. I checked the 5 amp fuses under the passenger seat and they seem ok. So guess that means the problem must be with the pump itself...?
Agree. It sounds like the pump has failed.
 
Thank you very much! Yes that worked and managed to suck some water through the tap. But the pump still didn't kick in unfortunately...

The pump doesn't make a whirring noise anymore when I open the tap. The tap just makes a faint click and then I get an error message in the overhead console. I checked the 5 amp fuses under the passenger seat and they seem ok. So guess that means the problem must be with the pump itself...?

APOLOGIES, I’VE JUST REALISED I GAVE YOU A BUM STEER - MY SHOWER ‘HOW-TO-FIT’ GUIDE DOESN’T DEAL WITH REMOVING THE WATER TANK TOP BUNG (although I did have to remove mine due to me breaking the 90deg yellow plastic water outlet elbow) - BUT THE PLY-AND-DOWEL TOOL I DESCRIBED EARLIER IN THIS THREAD DOES WORK REALLY WELL, AND DOES NOT NEED A MALLET OR A HAMMER, AND SO DOESN’T CREATE UNSIGHTLY BRUISES ON THE SPOKES OF THE BUNG.


If you need help getting at the pump to replace it, then you could take a look at my 'how-to' post on doing a factory shower retro-fit (there may well be faster routes to getting the information you need!):


Aug 17, 2022
OEM T6.1 REAR SHOWER SYSTEM - A GUIDE TO PARTS-SOURCING & FITTING
PART I of V

etc. . . .
 
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If you need help getting at the pump to replace it, then you could take a look at my 'how-to' post on doing a factory shower retro-fit (there may well be faster routes to getting the information you need!):


Aug 17, 2022
OEM T6.1 REAR SHOWER SYSTEM - A GUIDE TO PARTS-SOURCING & FITTING
PART I of V

etc. . . .
Great thanks I'll take a look
 
Just be aware that Miltons can react with stainless steel. Puriclean is the better bet.
I really don’t think Milton will harm stainless steel. Overuse / too strong, and it probably will degrade rubber seals but not silicone seals. This is from 40 years in the beer and drinks manufacturing business, cleaning plant with much higher strength caustic, on a daily basis, or more frequently. The occasional flush through with Milton will be fine.
 
I really don’t think Milton will harm stainless steel. Overuse / too strong, and it probably will degrade rubber seals but not silicone seals. This is from 40 years in the beer and drinks manufacturing business, cleaning plant with much higher strength caustic, on a daily basis, or more frequently. The occasional flush through with Milton will be fine.
Just passing on the information , do with it as you please . Google 'milton's and stainless steel'
 
Just passing on the information , do with it as you please . Google 'milton's and stainless steel'
Appreciate your concern. I’ve done as suggested. Some posts found on Google I saw quoted standing neat Milton in stainless. I wouldn’t advise this.

It comes down to concentration, contact time, temperature and quality (grade) of stainless steel. Regarding the water system in a Cali, most contact parts are HDPE and silicone, some minor parts are Stainless - but mainly the sink. So, for say a monthly wash through with Milton diluted sufficiently (to max 0.2% v/v) and say a 15 minute contact time, I wouldn’t see any issues. (I use the dilution of 0.1% and leave in for 30 minutes, then flush through with water and drain out.

For perspective, we use stainless flasks for tea, and when camping/ hiking, we use them every day. Once a week I give them an overnight Milton soak. We’ve been using these flasks for 5 years and had no problem with the stainless or the silicone seals. At the extreme end - an industrial drinks /food plant comprising of mostly stainless steel kit will have a 5% caustic wash (around 20 times stronger) for about an hour at 60 - 80degC around 2-4 times per day. Seals etc will degrade faster than the steel. I would admit though, the stainless used in such processes, and the quality checks on welds etc are the highest standard, so I’d definitely not suggest this regime on a domestic application ;)
 
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