rooftop doesn't open anymore

[WelshGas]

Any Help?

 

[vbk1975]

Andrew, thank you for the info. I tried putting a signal on the terminals you suggested. Just put the 12 volt signal without a negative as I assumed the negative earth connection would already be on the tbx plug and J768 unit. With and without the ignition on. There seems to be multiple feeds to the control panel and J768 snd still trying to figure them out, all fuse are ok. Big job but I am trying to trace all the wires and draw my own circuit diagram.the roof did open and close satisfactorily by putting 12v on the 2 pin plug directly connected to hydraulic motor.

Des

I can tell you all the control panel feeds pin by pin and the roof ECUs ones.

But in Terms of the Roof ECU and Control Panel.

There are only the four wires that the control panel uses for the roof control as above, the rest are related to everything else, water, heater, fridge, battery sensing.

The Roof ECU has separate ign and permanent power feeds, it has its own Earth connection and the other 6 connections are to the roof sensors. 4 x sensor inputs and 2 sensor power outputs. Then the pump output which is reversible relay output (H-Bridge) and also has a current shunt to measure the pump load.

 

[vbk1975]

I can tell you all the control panel feeds pin by pin and the roof ECUs ones.

But in Terms of the Roof ECU and Control Panel.

There are only the four wires that the control panel uses for the roof control as above, the rest are related to everything else, water, heater, fridge, battery sensing.

The Roof ECU has separate ign and permanent power feeds, it has its own Earth connection and the other 6 connections are to the roof sensors. 4 x sensor inputs and 2 sensor power outputs. Then the pump output which is reversible relay output (H-Bridge) and also has a current shunt to measure the pump load.

 

[Deshorton]

Hi again, had another try putting 12v feed onto the 23 pin to open and onto 22 to close. The roof went through the full sequence as if operating from the control panel, complete with the slight overrun of the pump in each direction to lock the roof in place. The difference this time was I checked the feeds from the fuses under the passenger seat, I had to override the 100 relay that controls the main feed to those fuses. Don’t know yet the control 0.35 black wire was’t providing the control feed ( may be because the E153 plug was not plugged in the the control panel) but as soon as they (the fuses) wire live then the roof worked as stated above.

One other question is: on the electrical schematic what are the rectangular block with a number, 20 43 etc, there is no plug reference number or terminal rail they my be on. I need understand this to complete my overall circuit diagram.

 

[vbk1975]

Hi again, had another try putting 12v feed onto the 23 pin to open and onto 22 to close. The roof went through the full sequence as if operating from the control panel, complete with the slight overrun of the pump in each direction to lock the roof in place. The difference this time was I checked the feeds from the fuses under the passenger seat, I had to override the 100 relay that controls the main feed to those fuses. Don’t know yet the control 0.35 black wire was’t providing the control feed ( may be because the E153 plug was not plugged in the the control panel) but as soon as they (the fuses) wire live then the roof worked as stated above.

One other question is: on the electrical schematic what are the rectangular block with a number, 20 43 etc, there is no plug reference number or terminal rail they my be on. I need understand this to complete my overall circuit diagram.

The square boxes with numbers mean that the circuits cross into another page.

So within the same section, you look at the number, then look at the numbers on the bottom of the sheet and go to the page that has that number

Often with Power feeds it is easier to just use the Fuse box charts in the back and work backwards.

So on the Roof diagram, you have 23 and 43.

[23] is the Ign feed from fuse SC55 this also feeds the control panel E153 (T32b/32)
[43] is the Perm feed from Fuse SH17

If you just want to use the control wires from the panel, then the wiring to J768 should not need to be touched.

Andrew

 

[Deshorton]

The square boxes with numbers mean that the circuits cross into another page.

So within the same section, you look at the number, then look at the numbers on the bottom of the sheet and go to the page that has that number

Often with Power feeds it is easier to just use the Fuse box charts in the back and work backwards.

So on the Roof diagram, you have 23 and 43.

[23] is the Ign feed from fuse SC55 this also feeds the control panel E153 (T32b/32)
[43] is the Perm feed from Fuse SH17

If you just want to use the control wires from the panel, then the wiring to J768 should not need to be touched.

Andrew

Thanks that makes it easier to follow the diagram. The one I am using is from post 1946vw.co.uk/vw….
I think this is for a newer different model from my 2006 California. In working through it and setting it up to work without the E153 controller. I can easily make a manual opening circuit for the roof. To make it work without the controller I had to override the 100 relay in the underseat fuse holder group. I am trying to understand the function(s) of this relay, I am guessing it is the link between the car starter battery and the Camper house battery. Charging the house battery when ignition on and engine running, and possibly has them linked when the Camper onboard charger is running when camper connected to 230 volt external supply. And finally isolates the two battery systems if the camper house battery is low voltage to prevent the engine battery from going flat. Understanding this is critical for designing the alternate workable manual system for; roof hydraulics, fridge unit, battery system safeguards etc.
Des

 

[pjotrk83]

Undo the bleed screw on the pump behind the display. The hydraulic lock is now gone. The roof should then be able to be lifted up manually and propped up with something

I have the same problem of the roof not opening and error 1000. Cali T5 2012. Reset does not work.
I have removed the control panel and unscrewed the bleed screw through the foam.
However, I can't get the roof to move. Moreover I can't get the screw tightened again.
Anyone knows what is happening and how to get the roof up to replace sensors?

 

[flying banana]

I have the same problem of the roof not opening and error 1000. Cali T5 2012. Reset does not work.
I have removed the control panel and unscrewed the bleed screw through the foam.
However, I can't get the roof to move. Moreover I can't get the screw tightened again.
Anyone knows what is happening and how to get the roof up to replace sensors?

if the screw won't tighten. it has come out of the threads. they have an o ring on them too i think. you will need to sort of force it forwards as you turn it to try get it to engage. when you try lift the roof it will feel tight and will go slowly as oil moves through the rams. some get it up putting a 12v feed directly to the pump.

 

[vbk1975]

if the screw won't tighten. it has come out of the threads. they have an o ring on them too i think. you will need to sort of force it forwards as you turn it to try get it to engage. when you try lift the roof it will feel tight and will go slowly as oil moves through the rams. some get it up putting a 12v feed directly to the pump.

If it has failed fully closed the rams will have locked the roof down and will need the pump to be directly powered to disengage the rams, you won’t be able to push the roof up even with the bleed screw released. If it has failed party open then you can raise manually with screw open.

A

 

[tedgina]

I have the same problem of the roof not opening and error 1000. Cali T5 2012. Reset does not work.
I have removed the control panel and unscrewed the bleed screw through the foam.
However, I can't get the roof to move. Moreover I can't get the screw tightened again.
Anyone knows what is happening and how to get the roof up to replace sensors?

I think fault 1000 is the hal sensors in the roof ,if the roof goes up when external power is used this confirms it .speak to Mark volksvans on Facebook to help you

 

[Azteccamper]

I have the same problem of the roof not opening and error 1000. Cali T5 2012. Reset does not work.
I have removed the control panel and unscrewed the bleed screw through the foam.
However, I can't get the roof to move. Moreover I can't get the screw tightened again.
Anyone knows what is happening and how to get the roof up to replace sensors?

This might be helpful. Found on YouTube.

 

[pjotrk83]

This might be helpful. Found on YouTube.

Thanks for your reactions. This manual looks really helpful. I will use it to try to get the roof up and the sensors replaced. And will let you know the results. However, I first will order the sensors.

 

[pjotrk83]

if the screw won't tighten. it has come out of the threads. they have an o ring on them too i think. you will need to sort of force it forwards as you turn it to try get it to engage. when you try lift the roof it will feel tight and will go slowly as oil moves through the rams. some get it up putting a 12v feed directly to the pump.

I have tried pushing and turning hard, but unfortunately it doesn't engage. I tried the direct feed, but this doesn't move the roof. Probably because of the loose slotted bleed screw. I can hear the pump running with supplying it.

 

[flying banana]

I have tried pushing and turning hard, but unfortunately it doesn't engage. I tried the direct feed, but this doesn't move the roof. Probably because of the loose slotted bleed screw. I can hear the pump running with supplying it.

yes i think you need to get that screw back in. have you removed it completely and examined the threads? i've never had that screw undone so no experience with it

 

[pjotrk83]

yes i think you need to get that screw back in. have you removed it completely and examined the threads? i've never had that screw undone so no experience with it

I will try. I didnt do it yet, because I was concerned about spilling oil.

 

[Azteccamper]

yes i think you need to get that screw back in. have you removed it completely and examined the threads? i've never had that screw undone so no experience with it

Doesn’t that screw release the pressure in the rams? No pressure will mean the roof won’t lift? Only thinking aloud.

 

[pjotrk83]

Doesn’t that screw release the pressure in the rams? No pressure will mean the roof won’t lift? Only thinking aloud.

Now, I have tried to unscrew the slotted bleed screw completely, but this doesn't work either, just as screwing it back in doesn't work. It is about 10mm out, where it was flush originally. Has anyone ever gotten this bleed screw out and knows how it looks like? If I would know that, I can choose an appoach accordingly.