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Shunt fix

C

camper-x

Messages
162
Location
Wakefield
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
Hi all. I’ve followed the VIP directions to fix the shunt and got the fridge out, now ready to do the repair. Seems I need to fit a new earth strap from shunt to the unused large diameter thread beside the wheel arch. My local dealer don’t know about this. They can sell me a shunt, but not the new earth strap and fixings I need. I can’t find this on the parts fische. Does anyone have the part number or contact details for a VW Dealer who knows about this? Cheers.


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Sad

Sad

Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
1,222
Location
Bridport, Dorset
Vehicle
T6.1 Coast 150
As I understand it, it's something few of the dealers are aware of. It's not a VW earth strap, but I expect one you could ask an auto electrician to make up or a standard off the shelf piece.

I need to do ours soon...
 
jts46

jts46

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Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
3,116
Location
Derbyshire & Lot et Garonne
Vehicle
T5 SE 130
When i did mine and did the write up for the downloads section, i used some strands of 1.5 mm twin and earth cable and made a cable.
 
bvddobb

bvddobb

VIP Member
Messages
1,311
Location
Netherlands
Vehicle
T5 SE 174 4Motion
You don't necessarily need a new shunt, you need a better ground cable to connect the shunt to the van's bodywork. You can get a complete set (cable, connectors, nuts, instruction) from the german Caliboard shop, they call it the Caliground. Follow the link.

IMG_0925-258331df32d8a5.jpg


At the bottom of that shop page there is an instruction for VW dealers on how to order it.

Basically, you need to connect the ground of the shunt (point 2, see the lousy original cable) with the bolt hole in the body (3) with this cable, and your shunt problems are gone!

Messshunt von oben.jpg

We used that set ourselves, it did what it is supposed to do for us!
 
Last edited:
El Greco

El Greco

VIP Member
Messages
399
Location
Berkshire, UK
Vehicle
T6 Ocean 204
please excuse my ignorance but why does this cable need replacing and is it a special cable or can it be any copper cable of suitable cross section?
 
WelshGas

WelshGas

Retired after 42 yrs and enjoying Life.
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20,232
Location
United Kingdom
Vehicle
T5 SE 180 4Motion
please excuse my ignorance but why does this cable need replacing and is it a special cable or can it be any copper cable of suitable cross section?
This is a problem Pre 2010 MY.
The Factory Earth for the Leisure Circuit was inadequate.
 
C

camper-x

Messages
162
Location
Wakefield
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
Thanks to you all for the quick replies. I think post 3 would work if you had a bolt to fit the spare chassis mount point but I went with post 5. I’ll measure the bolt and post back here in case someone wants to go the budget route. It’s just an extra earth strap and mounting bolt after all. Cheers folks.


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C

camper-x

Messages
162
Location
Wakefield
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
Bolt looks to be 9mm diameter, 20mm length. The kit comes with earth strap, washers and a replacement stud for one side of the shunt. It took a week to arrive from Germany. Worth the money if it solves the problem first time I’d say.


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Sad

Sad

Lifetime VIP Member
Messages
1,222
Location
Bridport, Dorset
Vehicle
T6.1 Coast 150
Bolt looks to be 9mm diameter, 20mm length. The kit comes with earth strap, washers and a replacement stud for one side of the shunt. It took a week to arrive from Germany. Worth the money if it solves the problem first time I’d say.


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Just encouraged me to order one too... :thumb
 
C

camper-x

Messages
162
Location
Wakefield
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
Just encouraged me to order one too... :thumb
Nice one. There's no communication from the seller. Paypal funds transferred at point of ordering. A week later the kit arrived. Two of us tackled the fridge removal for ease. Mine has the three bolts to the side so OK. I used a sink plunger to make the initial lift - just high enough to get hands on and withdraw it. Not refitted mine yet but will post the result.
 
C

camper-x

Messages
162
Location
Wakefield
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
Nice one. There's no communication from the seller. Paypal funds transferred at point of ordering. A week later the kit arrived. Two of us tackled the fridge removal for ease. Mine has the three bolts to the side so OK. I used a sink plunger to make the initial lift - just high enough to get hands on and withdraw it. Not refitted mine yet but will post the result.

As a previous poster said - we’re using the redundant seat belt fixing point behind the fridge.


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C

camper-x

Messages
162
Location
Wakefield
Vehicle
T5 SE 174
As a previous poster said - we’re using the redundant seat belt fixing point behind the fridge.


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Done and tested. All good. Refitting the fridge is a bit tricky - take care lining up the bolts. Try refitting the middle bolts first and nudge either front or back into position. Heater and fridge run sweet, no light flicker. Worth buying the kit. You wouldn’t want to have to do this twice!


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Brownbetty

Brownbetty

Messages
130
Location
Sunderland
Vehicle
T5 SE 180
Done and tested. All good. Refitting the fridge is a bit tricky - take care lining up the bolts. Try refitting the middle bolts first and nudge either front or back into position. Heater and fridge run sweet, no light flicker. Worth buying the kit. You wouldn’t want to have to do this twice!


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Sounds like a mare to do your self, I took mine to the local garage where the lad loves working on the Cali's. I told him the problem with the heater not working and what I thought the problem was after reading abt it on this site, he put a new earth cable from leisure battery under the wardrobe to hole on the wheel arch. There was no need to remove the fridge, it's been working great ever since. He did say the one that was on was not fit for purpose. Cost £50 including vat. So glad you got yours sorted.
 
tvwanaka

tvwanaka

Messages
7
Location
Norway
Vehicle
T5 SE 174 4Motion
he put a new earth cable from leisure battery under the wardrobe to hole on the wheel arch.
Hi BBman. Do you know if your mechanic went direct from negative battery terminal to the wheel arch, or from the shunt to the wheel arch?
 
bvddobb

bvddobb

VIP Member
Messages
1,311
Location
Netherlands
Vehicle
T5 SE 174 4Motion
Hi BBman. Do you know if your mechanic went direct from negative battery terminal to the wheel arch, or from the shunt to the wheel arch?
If he connected the negative battery directly to the car body/the wheel arch, you have better grounding, but it doesn't fix the shunt issue... That will still give wrong measurements, perhaps even more wrong now it is bridged...

Connecting the battery to the body is a good trick to see if you have the shunt issue, or as a temporary work around (all documented on the german forum). If your problems then are gone (flickering light when heater starts, other strange electrical behaviour), then yes, you could do with a better shunt ground. But a direct ground from the battery, bridging the shunt, is not a remedy. Giving the shunt a better grounding is what is really needed, so that your CU gets sent the right measurements.
 
Brownbetty

Brownbetty

Messages
130
Location
Sunderland
Vehicle
T5 SE 180
Hi BBman. Do you know if your mechanic went direct from negative battery terminal to the wheel arch, or from the shunt to the wheel arch?
Sorry but I have no idea, I'm not very mechanical, all I know is I've had no issues since.
 

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