Sliding Door Woes

[Kevin English]

Hi there. I have a bit of a head scratcher that I’m having trouble figuring out. It may be something simple I’m missing but I’m struggling at the moment.

I’ve just come back from a trip to wales. On the trip I crossed a ford to get to the campsite one night, it was pretty shallow and I had no dramas crossing. The following morning I crossed again with no dramas but later noticed the charging system for the camper electrics wasn’t registering any current going in when driving. With a bit of help off this forum I managed to locate the 80amp fuse under the seat which had blown. Replacing it made no difference! A bit more digging found that this was supplied from a fuse under the battery. Sure enough the 100amp fuse under the battery had also blown. I replaced this and all was good in the world! Everything was working and charging as it should be until I noticed the electric sliding door wasn’t working.

The door no longer works from the key fob or internal buttons. The internal buttons no longer light up either. Research shows it could be a controller but after stripping the rear panel off to look it at it appears all good. I’ve just checked the voltage to the controller and it’s 1.5v! Checked it at the 40amp fuse and it’s the same. My understanding is this is fed off the 100amp fuse 3 under the battery which I know is good as all the split charge system is working fine so my question to any gurus out there is why don’t I have a battery voltage to the 40amp fuse under the passenger seat? Is there’s something in between the two I’m missing?

Just to prove my theory I connected a 12v battery directly to the 40amp fuse feed for the door and the door worked again so it’s deffo a supply voltage issue but for the life of me I can’t work it out.

Any help on this issue would be greatly received as it’s driving me up the wall

Just to note it’s a 2011 California SE I have and up until a few days ago had been faultless.

Thanks

 

[Kevin English]

Hey, just to close this out incase anyone has a similar problem in the future, I did get to the root cause of my issues! The main power supply cable for the 2nd battery has a splice in it with the cable for the electric sliding door attached, in my case the splice had corroded over time and a water leak under the carpet (check your roof drains regularly!) finished the job off with said splice shorting out to the van floor! When I took it all apart the cable for the sliding door just fell off (I'm surprised I was actually getting any voltage to the sliding door!) and there was about half a dozen wires left in the main cable that charges your 2nd battery so I feel like I've dodged a bullet, the outcome could have been a lot worse! So in a nutshell if you're have having voltage issues to your electric sliding door and there's a significant difference to what's being supplied to the second battery then take a look at this splice there's a good chance it might be corroded.