T 6.1 control panel battery capacity

G

Gazzer01

Messages
30
Location
kent
Vehicle
T6.1 Ocean 150
My New T 6.1 ocean was delivered a couple of weeks ago after a year wait and have been using it for a couple of weeks away. I put it on ehu at home and on site and every time the battery status was constantly showing > 60 hrs After several hours charging.

for the past 3 days when on ehu it only shows a maximum of around 35 hrs and appears only half capacity according to the blue bars. This is also the maximum when not on ehu and driving.

any ideas please on what I can try before taking it back to the dealership to let them troubleshoot and rectify ?
F5392217-0A96-4C8D-9A2D-2E799642A426.jpeg
 
My New T 6.1 ocean was delivered a couple of weeks ago after a year wait and have been using it for a couple of weeks away. I put it on ehu at home and on site and every time the battery status was constantly showing > 60 hrs After several hours charging.

for the past 3 days when on ehu it only shows a maximum of around 35 hrs and appears only half capacity according to the blue bars. This is also the maximum when not on ehu and driving.

any ideas please on what I can try before taking it back to the dealership to let them troubleshoot and rectify ?
View attachment 99732
Hiya, has been a good few other instances of others reporting similar. Some have had success with a swap of the cube fuse on the rear battery. I'd suggest a search for recent posts about the "cube fuse" as a starting point. If that is blown then you will only have the front under seat leisure battery in play at the moment and that "could" be your issue.
 
Step 1, take a voltage reading from both batteries.
If you can't do step 1 take it to your dealer. Nothing can be achieved on the forums without 1.
 
Step 1, take a voltage reading from both batteries.
If you can't do step 1 take it to your dealer. Nothing can be achieved on the forums without 1.
Ok thanks,
I’ll take out the rear shelf and measure voltage across both batteries terminals along with checking the cube fuse.

will report back shortly.
 
Ok thanks,
I’ll take out the rear shelf and measure voltage across both batteries terminals along with checking the cube fuse.

will report back shortly.

Both can be measured from the rear. Above the ceramic cube fuse is the front battery voltage, below is the rear battery (or just measure at the terminal).
 
Thanks for the great help so far.
front battery is 13.00 v on the battery terminals. Also 13.00 above cube fuse when measured in the rear
rear battery is 12.24 on the battery terminals
 
Thanks for the great help so far.
front battery is 13.00 v on the battery terminals. Also 13.00 above cube fuse when measured in the rear
rear battery is 12.24 on the battery terminals
I think you have found your culprit. :thumb
 
I really appreciate all the help so far and a great forum !,,

I’m getting 0.77 v on the top of the cube fuse to the lower as measured in the picture

so the cube fuse has blown on a brand new two week old ocean ? i’m ultra careful with everything about the van so is this a sign of the general reliability I can expect in the future ?

9E5792F0-B064-4755-AACB-65B05019B414.jpeg
 
It's a poor design. My van has lots of spare fuses in it...

You can get your dealer to replace the fuse or do it yourself.

Dealer replacement can be a bit hit and miss, they might go on a wild goose chase when they immediately blow the replacement fuse. You'll find horror stories in these forums if you look.

I will edit this post shortly with a link to @WelshGas' comprehensive post. It is possible to work around the battery charge requirement, post back if you need suggestions.

Here's the post (#19 at this stage) and the whole thread is probably relevant:

 
Last edited:
It's a poor design. My van has lots of spare fuses in it...

You can get your dealer to replace the fuse or do it yourself.

Dealer replacement can be a bit hit and miss, they might go on a wild goose chase when they immediately blow the replacement fuse. You'll find horror stories in these forums if you look.

I will edit this post shortly with a link to @WelshGas comprehensive post. It is possible to work around the battery charge requirement, post back if you need suggestions.

Here's the post and the whole thread is probably relevant:


Thanks Yossarian for sharing and appreciate your help. The technical knowledge on the forum is fantastic !!!!

Bit of a dilemma now, do I simply swap out for a replacement 75A fuse and potentially invalidate the warranty by doing it myself even though I'm more than capable of doing it safely. Or do I take it in to the dealer and let them do it and potentially have other problems.

I think I will take it to the dealer and they can assume the responsibility.
 
It could be argued that the cube fuse is a consumable particularly with the current design.
 
I do agree the more I think about it and just ordered 2 from 12v planet :)

Have read the thread you posted and have one final question if I may.

When swapping out the cube fuse, should I remove only the negative and positive leads or should I just disconnect the negative and positive terminal clamps (with all associated wiring attached) from the battery as there look to be additional control/monitoring cables also attached to each terminal?

tempImage1j3si1.png
 
When swapping out the cube fuse, should I remove only the negative and positive leads or should I just disconnect the negative and positive terminal clamps (with all associated wiring attached) from the battery as there look to be additional control/monitoring cables also attached to each terminal?

View attachment 99746
Provided you charge your battery first and protect the leads from shorting to ground I'd just replace the fuse by disassembling the leads on the cube fuse. Be careful with the nut torque it's easy to damage that nut.

Your battery sensor is wired differently to the Coast in the linked topic. The sensor positive is the small lead on the positive clamp.

If you connect your charger negative to the chassis side of the sensor on the battery negative it will be able to observe the battery charging and update its internal state. If you don't get this right your can reset the sensor by unplugging and replugging the two pin connector on the sensor.
 
Provided you charge your battery first and protect the leads from shorting to ground I'd just replace the fuse by disassembling the leads on the cube fuse. Be careful with the nut torque it's easy to damage that nut.

Your battery sensor is wired differently to the Coast in the linked topic. The sensor positive is the small lead on the positive clamp.

If you connect your charger negative to the chassis side of the sensor on the battery negative it will be able to observe the battery charging and update its internal state. If you don't get this right your can reset the sensor by unplugging and replugging the two pin connector on the sensor.
all understood, thank you once again....
 
Just to add: you could charge the battery ahead of the cube fuse arriving. No need to disconnect anything just hook up to the positive terminal and chassis side of the sensor.
 
Just to add: you could charge the battery ahead of the cube fuse arriving. No need to disconnect anything just hook up to the positive terminal and chassis side of the sensor.
There is a differential of .8v between the front and rear batteries so don’t think I will need a massive charge but planning to do that tomorrow in advance also as you just mentioned.

Not sure what you mean with regards to the “ chassis side of the sensor“ Have I circled it correctly in the picture below ?

if our paths ever cross - I owe you a drink…..
09B036B0-76C4-421D-BC23-5DEA54F4283A.jpeg
 
There is a differential of .8v between the front and rear batteries so don’t think I will need a massive charge but planning to do that tomorrow in advance also as you just mentioned.
The batteries have internal resistance of about 3 milli Ohms. The current gets high quite quick.

Not sure what you mean with regards to the “ chassis side of the sensor“ Have I circled it correctly in the picture below ?
That's it, top right!
if our paths ever cross - I owe you a drink…..
I'm always in favour!
 
I went out and put the battery on charge while I wait for delivery of the 75 amp ceramic fuses and thought I would have a good look at the ceramic fuse from the back while I was there.

VW are fitting 100 amp ceramic fuses now (at least to my 2022 6.1 they did) as you can see below from the one that has blown on my van.

Is there any particular reason why I should still fit a 75 amp as I am about to cancel the order and order 100 amp if not ?

tempImage6Bs3ZQ.png
 
I went out and put the battery on charge while I wait for delivery of the 75 amp ceramic fuses and thought I would have a good look at the ceramic fuse from the back while I was there.

VW are fitting 100 amp ceramic fuses now (at least to my 2022 6.1 they did) as you can see below from the one that has blown on my van.

Is there any particular reason why I should still fit a 75 amp as I am about to cancel the order and order 100 amp if not ?

View attachment 99777
Personally I would fit like for like.
 
Update and a question....

Photo 1 - Rear leisure battery should be completing charge shortly with no issues and the great advice by @yossarian made it a completely seamless experience in not having to remove any cables from the battery to charge.

tempImagec3vwax.jpg


Photo 2 - Console now showing >60 hours charge as normal so I know there are no sensor issues prior to replacing the cube fuse.
tempImagea8tbRZ.jpg


Question - When the fuses arrive on Tuesday morning and to make the final piece also a simple experience could I simply;
1, Remove the positive cable from the front to rear battery
2, Place in one of WelshGas's rubber gloves for isolation
3, Replace the cube fuse
4, Reconnect the positive cable from the front battery
5, Drink beer and relax.

The reason I ask this question, the battery is removed from the compartment and not in a position to be ground out (my tools are plastic covered too) and would be one less step having to remove the negative wire and sensor from the battery terminal and any potential arcs when connecting back up and impacting the sensor. does this sound a feasible approach ?
 
Update and a question....

Photo 1 - Rear leisure battery should be completing charge shortly with no issues and the great advice by @yossarian made it a completely seamless experience in not having to remove any cables from the battery to charge.

View attachment 99802


Photo 2 - Console now showing >60 hours charge as normal so I know there are no sensor issues prior to replacing the cube fuse.
View attachment 99801


Question - When the fuses arrive on Tuesday morning and to make the final piece also a simple experience could I simply;
1, Remove the positive cable from the front to rear battery
2, Place in one of WelshGas's rubber gloves for isolation
3, Replace the cube fuse
4, Reconnect the positive cable from the front battery
5, Drink beer and relax.

The reason I ask this question, the battery is removed from the compartment and not in a position to be ground out (my tools are plastic covered too) and would be one less step having to remove the negative wire and sensor from the battery terminal and any potential arcs when connecting back up and impacting the sensor. does this sound a feasible approach ?
All I can say is, when I replaced the Cube fuse, I had the battery connected, outside the compartment.
New fuse to hand. I just undid the nut holding the +tve lead. Lifted it up with one hand, removed old fuse, fitted new fuse with my other hand , replaced +tve lead and did up nut, gently.
 

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