T6.1 Ocean sinking roof

  • Thread starter CaliforniaSteve
  • Start date
The test is a lowering of more than 20cm within 72hours, this is not cumulative. VW measure the roof from the datum point, and if it isn’t lower than the 20cm regardless of how many re-raises it meets the specifications. If you lower your roof by 20cm at home its a massive amount of sag compared to what most of us are seeing, so will not be treated as a fault.
I'd challenge that. If it's not cumulative then why wait 72 hours...

If it doesn't drop 20 cms in the first 10 then re-inflation will take care of the rest.... So no need for a 72 hour test...

Remember lots of VW dealers aren't very competent.
 
First make sure the emergency screw on the pump is tightened.
When I changed my pump, the new one wasn't tightened, making the roof sag rather quickly, and lowering uneven.
After that, I only encounter minimal sag in hot days/colder nights, and even less on not so sunny days/equal temperature nights.
 
My dealer has now offered to buy back my van as there’s no prognosis for when the new parts for the hydraulics can be delivered. Problem is there are basically no new T6.1 available in Sweden to replace my current. Not sure what to do.
 
My dealer has now offered to buy back my van as there’s no prognosis for when the new parts for the hydraulics can be delivered. Problem is there are basically no new T6.1 available in Sweden to replace my current. Not sure what to do.
Ask them if they changed the hydraulic lines on the pump, left to right. If the problem changes position, then you know it's on the pump side. If the problem stays on the same side, it's the hydraulic ram.
Ask them to check the emergency screw. If it's not tight enough, some oil may return unwanted to the reservoir.
Ask them to check for any signs of leakage on the hydraulic connections. In that case it's to try with new seals.
If you set your roof half way up or down, can you shift the roof with your hands (up and down, and the other side changes opposite)?

I'm just trying to help to find the cause of the problem.
 
My dealer has now offered to buy back my van as there’s no prognosis for when the new parts for the hydraulics can be delivered. Problem is there are basically no new T6.1 available in Sweden to replace my current. Not sure what to do.
Sounds like it needs a new hydraulic pump. Can you escalate why it's such a long wait for a new one?
 
I don’t see anything in the handbook that informs the owner of a ‘sag tolerance’. If the roof lights won’t work then it’s not ‘fit for purpose’ or, ‘as described’. If still in warranty then the Motor Ombudsman or Financial Ombudsman may be the best option. The dealer has one chance to remedy before rejection can be attempted.
 
Ask them if they changed the hydraulic lines on the pump, left to right. If the problem changes position, then you know it's on the pump side. If the problem stays on the same side, it's the hydraulic ram.
Ask them to check the emergency screw. If it's not tight enough, some oil may return unwanted to the reservoir.
Ask them to check for any signs of leakage on the hydraulic connections. In that case it's to try with new seals.
If you set your roof half way up or down, can you shift the roof with your hands (up and down, and the other side changes opposite)?

I'm just trying to help to find the cause of the problem.
Very helpful for my discussion on with Leicester VW next month.
 
I don’t see anything in the handbook that informs the owner of a ‘sag tolerance’. If the roof lights won’t work then it’s not ‘fit for purpose’ or, ‘as described’. If still in warranty then the Motor Ombudsman or Financial Ombudsman may be the best option. The dealer has one chance to remedy before rejection can be attempted.
There is apparently some kind of technical note / bulletin which states that for further investigation, the roof needs to sag by 20cms or more in 3 days.

Now I assumed that this was cumulative and somehow the dealer disabled the re-inflate first but someone here posted that it is 20cms with the vehicle left to its own devices.

Mine sags 2-4 cms every 5 hours but is worse in hot days / cold nights. So cumulatively it's hitting > 20cms in three days but often the pump kicks in at 10 and then every 5 hours indefinitely. Going to Breeze for investigation in a week or two.
 
Hi. If I could pick up this thread and add please.
MY23 Ocean. I have had the sagging roof bellows from new in Sept 22 and had it back to VW Liverpool and now VW Cleckheaton with no joy. (Had no end of warranty issues with this Cali afraid too say).
I am told that the system has been bled and the 5x up and down has been done. Last week it was left for a few days in the workshop with the roof up but it didn't sag. I brought it home and it sagged as usual with 2 days. Drivers side. No roof lights working. Usual stuff.
When we are away I just re-tension the roof by pressing 'down' a bit and the 'up' again. It's a pain though.
I had a T5.1 for 13 years without a problem. (DSG gearbox imploded though! Hence sold it).
So my questions are:
1. VW are saying a 20cm roof drop is within tolerance. Has anyone successfully challenged that please?
2. Unlike my T5.1, the T6.1 has never re-tensioned itself after 5, 10 or any hours after ignition off. Is that a fault?
3. Is the consensus that the sagging is due to change in temp over night which may not show up in a workshop environment? Our's sagged in France at 30+c but also here in 10-15c with a PUCER wrap round insulation wrap on.
It is hard to prove this issue are we only camp rarely it seems and only for couple of nights each pitch.
Thanks
Here arte some photos. Usual stuff. Would sink further if I leave it I am sure.

View attachment 129193

View attachment 129194

View attachment 129195
Snap
Going to breeze in 2 weeks to see what they think
It sagged after 3 days and due to twisting, made an excruciating grating sound on the near side bracket on the way down
Ouch

IMG_1667.jpeg
 
Snap
Going to breeze in 2 weeks to see what they think
It sagged after 3 days and due to twisting, made an excruciating grating sound on the near side bracket on the way down
Ouch

View attachment 129916
I also have a similar issue and am awaiting a resolution. Before lowering I put mine back to the full height, and then lower. This seems to negate the grating issue that you mention.
 
Parts have finally come (they were on backorder) and I've got a time booked this week for installing new hydraulics. Hopefully the issue will be resolved, fingers crossed!
 
I finally got my van back. I've owned it for almost three months, and the roof has been unusable for almost two of those. I was able to raise and lower the roof when testing during the weekend and no sag appeared over a period of 6 hours. Going camping next weekend to give a proper test. Hopefully, my issue is resolved after the hydraulics were changed.
 
Just on this topic, has anyone concluded the best way to "prime/bleed" the roof mechanism? There's an oft quoted idea of lowering and raising it, but is this lower all the way down to fully closed, then open fully again, or just drop it down 20cm or so then raise back again? Ours dropped a bit on a recent trip where it was 20 degrees daytime temperature but pretty chilly overnight (I wonder if temperature extremes cause the issues more than a specific temperature?); we had our Comfortz wrap on but it almost got wedged as there wasn't enough sag to just raise the roof again (must be close enough to "open" for it not to allow it) but it was getting to the point that the "poles" in the wrap were getting a bit tight.
 
Just on this topic, has anyone concluded the best way to "prime/bleed" the roof mechanism? There's an oft quoted idea of lowering and raising it, but is this lower all the way down to fully closed, then open fully again, or just drop it down 20cm or so then raise back again? Ours dropped a bit on a recent trip where it was 20 degrees daytime temperature but pretty chilly overnight (I wonder if temperature extremes cause the issues more than a specific temperature?); we had our Comfortz wrap on but it almost got wedged as there wasn't enough sag to just raise the roof again (must be close enough to "open" for it not to allow it) but it was getting to the point that the "poles" in the wrap were getting a bit tight.
All the way down and back up. From 5 - 10 times I'd say. That's if it is air bubbles in the system - yours sounds like defo the temperature extremes caused it - dropped a semi technical on another post on why I think it happens.

One has to wonder is a really high quality oil would make a difference.
 

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