Water top up funnel

Can understand the desire to go small. But my point is:

- at home: you can use a hose directly from your tap. So no need for this attachment.
- while away: what does this thing do better then just using a 1.5L water bottle? You'll need a water container either way.
With all the stories of hose pipes not suitable and non food safe, although I don’t know much about this and I know you can buy food safe hoses but then wouldn’t I need to connect this from the kitchen tap? Again I’m not 100% sure about this but isn’t the kitchen tap the only true drinking water tap and not the outside or garage tap?
I personally never drink water from the tap at home anyway as our water is hard so always drink bottled water and filter the kitchen tap water for tea and coffee.
I just like the idea of the Cali always having drinking water run through it in case we ever wanted to drink it and for making hot drinks.
 
With all the stories of hose pipes not suitable and non food safe, although I don’t know much about this and I know you can buy food safe hoses but then wouldn’t I need to connect this from the kitchen tap? Again I’m not 100% sure about this but isn’t the kitchen tap the only true drinking water tap and not the outside or garage tap?
I personally never drink water from the tap at home anyway as our water is hard so always drink bottled water and filter the kitchen tap water for tea and coffee.
I just like the idea of the Cali always having drinking water run through it in case we ever wanted to drink it and for making hot drinks.
Generally a kitchen tap is direct off the mains whilst other cold taps are via storage tanks. The latter, since the water is standing and often not entirely sealed, can attract dust etc. and is less clean. However, there are variations for example I have pressurised sealed stainless steel cold water storage in my house and more recently there has been a move away from attic tanks. The alternatives are often more expensive. Some properties are all off the mains though that is unlikely to pass any building inspection. On the continent, attic storage tanks that then feed the house by gravity, have always been rare.

So in the absence of specific knowledge, it is correct to use the kitchen tap. Garden taps for example could be either direct mains or via storage.
 
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I don’t think I’d use the funnel idea, but I can see how you might if using a kettle etc to fill in emergencies. We carry a short (7m) flat hose to connect to taps, plus a piece of stiff black water pipe (25mm diameter - like you’d use for garden water supplies, ponds etc) and this can be attached to a water carrier bottle. The length of this hose is long enough not to be able to disappear into the Cali’s water tank! At home, I fill either using the 10 litre water carrier, or via a long blue hose to our kitchen tap.

pic of the black hose…

IMG_6345.jpeg
 
This seems the closest on eBay. Does the other one go in the Cali the same amount or further?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115806733385
The version 2 funnel as my earlier post #47 diagram is a perfect fit in a later California (and also splits into two for packaging). I was originally sent a Version 1 (I had been insufficiently specific) and that was a loose fit. So my concern over alternatives such as the one you link to, @18ME, is that it may not fit like a glove which makes the ones in my and others’ earlier posts so good to use.

I would persevere with:

chrisatheathpark@yahoo.com
 
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The version 2 funnel as my earlier post #47 diagram is a perfect fit in a later California (and also splits into two for packaging). I was originally sent a Version 1 (I had been insufficiently specific) and that was a loose fit. So my concern over alternatives such as the one you link to, @18ME, is that it may not fit like a glove which makes the ones in my and others’ earlier posts so good to use.

I would persevere with:

chrisatheathpark@yahoo.com
For if you own a 3D printer.

 
For if you own a 3D printer.

I am not convinced that will be a good fit for the later California, i.e. with the Version 2 water and electric hub as per the diagram in #47 above. It does say it fits a T5, however. Slight puzzle is that the picture is of the later water/electric hub, others may be more expert on this.
 
Thanks for that, I don’t know why I couldn’t find it but I did contact the email as suggested. Which looking at the eBay listing is the same person as he told me he was away in Spain until the 10th March.
Yes, I seem to remember when I ordered a while back there was a delay as they had been away - presumably in their camper.
 
I have unintentionally run my water tank empty on site and it was a faff to lower the pop top and drive round to the water point. So I have a couple of 2 litre plastic bottles in the cupboards and a great little funnel from Halfords to let me fill it up until I'm ready to move.

 
Generally a kitchen tap is direct off the mains whilst other cold taps are via storage tanks. The latter, since the water is standing and often not entirely sealed, can attract dust etc. and is less clean. However, there are variations for example I have pressurised sealed stainless steel cold water storage in my house and more recently there has been a move away from attic tanks. The alternatives are often more expensive. Some properties are all off the mains though that is unlikely to pass any building inspection. On the continent, attic storage tanks that then feed the house by gravity, have always been rare.

So in the absence of specific knowledge, it is correct to use the kitchen tap. Garden taps for example could be either direct mains or via storage.
To be clear, all your cold taps in a house will be connected from the cold water incoming mains, unless someone has done something dodgy. Therefore, all your cold taps are potable (drinking quality). The attic header tanks, if you have them, are 1) used for central heating expansion (usually a smallish tank around 10 litres), and 2) for hot water feed via an immersion tank (bigger, usually around 100 litres or more). If you have a combi boiler you’ll likely have neither of these tanks, as the hot water is direct, and the central heating top up is via a top up / pressurisation valve.

As all taps are (usually) connected by copper pipes or plastic quick fit piping, they’re all okay, even an outside tap. The only concern I’d have about using an outside tap to fill drinking water is - if it’s seldomly used, if it’s remote from the house (connected by underground pipework), and what connection is on the end - say if it’s used for non hygienic supplies. I’d say it would be odd to have an outside tap connected to a separate storage tank - but home owners can get inventive!!

Edit : Above is true in the UK. I’m aware other countries, specifically Nordic countries, have different domestic systems.
 
To be clear, all your cold taps in a house will be connected from the cold water incoming mains, unless someone has done something dodgy. Therefore, all your cold taps are potable (drinking quality). The attic header tanks, if you have them, are 1) used for central heating expansion (usually a smallish tank around 10 litres), and 2) for hot water feed via an immersion tank (bigger, usually around 100 litres or more). If you have a combi boiler you’ll likely have neither of these tanks, as the hot water is direct, and the central heating top up is via a top up / pressurisation valve.

As all taps are (usually) connected by copper pipes or plastic quick fit piping, they’re all okay, even an outside tap. The only concern I’d have about using an outside tap to fill drinking water is - if it’s seldomly used, if it’s remote from the house (connected by underground pipework), and what connection is on the end - say if it’s used for non hygienic supplies. I’d say it would be odd to have an outside tap connected to a separate storage tank - but home owners can get inventive!!

Edit : Above is true in the UK. I’m aware other countries, specifically Nordic countries, have different domestic systems.
Thanks for the explanation. I’m not sure why I thought that the kitchen tap was the only true drinking water, it’s probably what someone said years and years ago when people had headed tanks etc in their lofts and I just took it from that.

But now I know something new thanks to this forum, seem to learn everyday here :)
When our current house was built 6 years ago I asked for the outside tap to be put in the detached garage. The builders forgot to fit an outside tap when we moved in so they had to big the front garden up and feed from the down stairs cloakroom, as they said it was the nearest water supply. Is this likely to be safe too?
 
Thanks for the explanation. I’m not sure why I thought that the kitchen tap was the only true drinking water, it’s probably what someone said years and years ago when people had headed tanks etc in their lofts and I just took it from that.

But now I know something new thanks to this forum, seem to learn everyday here :)
When our current house was built 6 years ago I asked for the outside tap to be put in the detached garage. The builders forgot to fit an outside tap when we moved in so they had to big the front garden up and feed from the down stairs cloakroom, as they said it was the nearest water supply. Is this likely to be safe too?
Turn the mains supply off and see if the tap still provides water. That’s the only sure fire way to ensure the tap is or isn’t fed from the mains direct, as opposed to from a tank.
 
Turn the mains supply off and see if the tap still provides water. That’s the only sure fire way to ensure the tap is or isn’t fed from the mains direct, as opposed to from a tank.
Correct @Betsycalifornia.

I think that @Hawthorn37 may not be entirely right in what he says. I have not practiced as an Architect for over 20 years and the regulations may have changed, but certainly years ago the kitchen tap (and perhaps some external garden tap(s)) were direct to the mains but other taps in bathrooms, closets etc. were off the tank. In older houses that have not been refurbished this must surely remain the case. Also latterly when I was building some plumbers would install a balanced system (so single tank supply feeding both hot and cold) to protect showers in particular from a hot flush when other cold taps were used simultaneously.

It is very possible that many modern houses have done away with tanks and used all mains supply with a one way valve at entry, particularly where they are using a combi boiler as @Hawthorn37 correctly says, but it certainly used to be the regulation (years ago) that the only direct mains fee allowed within a house was to the kitchen.

I am going to speak to my plumber and local building inspector, when the opportunity arises, for an update.

In summary, there are lots of alternatives and as @Betsycalifornia says, the only certain test is to turn off your mains supply and test.
 
Correct @Betsycalifornia.

I think that @Hawthorn37 may not be entirely right in what he says. I have not practiced as an Architect for over 20 years and the regulations may have changed, but certainly years ago the kitchen tap (and perhaps some external garden tap(s)) were direct to the mains but other taps in bathrooms, closets etc. were off the tank. In older houses that have not been refurbished this must surely remain the case. Also latterly when I was building some plumbers would install a balanced system (so single tank supply feeding both hot and cold) to protect showers in particular from a hot flush when other cold taps were used simultaneously.

It is very possible that many modern houses have done away with tanks and used all mains supply with a one way valve at entry, particularly where they are using a combi boiler as @Hawthorn37 correctly says, but it certainly used to be the regulation (years ago) that the only direct mains fee allowed within a house was to the kitchen.

I am going to speak to my plumber and local building inspector, when the opportunity arises, for an update.

In summary, there are lots of alternatives and as @Betsycalifornia says, the only certain test is to turn off your mains supply and test.
Interesting but not in my experience. I’m an engineer but not a plumber, however I’ve fitted 3 bathrooms and plumbed 2 kitchens in the past 12 months, plus many other plumbing jobs over 40 years including full heating and house renovations. All cases are as I describe. What you may find in a house with tanks is the mains cold water comes in via the kitchen with the kitchen tap as the first draw point, then a 15mm pipe travels to the port floors to supply cold taps, the header tanks and toilet cisterns.

Anyway- this discussion is probably drifting off the topic of the thread. In reality, most people would connect their hose to the kitchen tap as these end to be the ones where you can unscrew the spout part and screw in a connector - or use the compression cup type connector.
 
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Interesting but not in my experience. I’m an engineer but not a plumber, however I’ve fitted 3 bathrooms and plumbed 2 kitchens in the past 12 months, plus many other plumbing jobs over 40 years including full heating and house renovations. All cases are as I describe. What you may find in a house with tanks is the mains cold water comes in via the kitchen with the kitchen tap as the first draw point, then a 15mm pipe travels to the port floors to supply cold taps, the header tanks and toilet cisterns.

Anyway- this discussion is probably drifting off the topic of the thread. In reality, most people would connect their hose to the kitchen tap as these end to be the ones where you can unscrew the spout part and screw in a connector - or use the compression cup type connector.
I definitely have a circa 400 litre cold water tank in the loft in addition to the central heating header tank. 1980s house. UK. Only direct mains fed tap is the kitchen sink. That was the traditional set up and the source of the ‘only drink from the kitchen tap’ advice. Most newer or renovated houses have moved away from that now. Useful when the water goes off which it seems to with increasing frequency as we still have water for everything else until that runs out.

In regards the original discussion (!) I have the same orange flexi-funnel from Halfords to fill the tank which fits in the back cupboard. I quite like the look of the 3D printed one as it is smaller still. I use a collapsing water carrier that fits between the chairs in the tailgate. I have a slightly bigger 20L version. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003QAD4KY?tag=eliteelect-21. I tend to travel with only 5-10 litres of water until I get to destination as an extra 20kg on top of 4 people and their kit is extra weight I can do without.

I don’t want to have to move the van to join the Great White queue at the service point while the person in front empties their loo and waste tanks before I can cook dinner.

It also gives the children something to do while I am opening the wine.
 
It is strange how people can have such opposite views. I have one of these funnels and think it great. Whether using a hose and pistol tap at home or water bottles abroad/away this is the perfect solution by allowing you to fill through 90 degrees without the source touching. The funnel is kept safe and clean of course.

How you buy one now it seems is unclear, certainly the link I had no longer work. As above the email I used was:

chrisatheathpark@yahoo.com

And I recall there were two types one for the later combined water and electric unit and the other for the earlier water only unit.
View attachment 119617
Just to advise that is my photo of my GC so available for the GC for anyone that wants one.
 
I definitely have a circa 400 litre cold water tank in the loft in addition to the central heating header tank. 1980s house. UK. Only direct mains fed tap is the kitchen sink. That was the traditional set up and the source of the ‘only drink from the kitchen tap’ advice. Most newer or renovated houses have moved away from that now. Useful when the water goes off which it seems to with increasing frequency as we still have water for everything else until that runs out.

In regards the original discussion (!) I have the same orange flexi-funnel from Halfords to fill the tank which fits in the back cupboard. I quite like the look of the 3D printed one as it is smaller still. I use a collapsing water carrier that fits between the chairs in the tailgate. I have a slightly bigger 20L version. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003QAD4KY?tag=eliteelect-21. I tend to travel with only 5-10 litres of water until I get to destination as an extra 20kg on top of 4 people and their kit is extra weight I can do without.

I don’t want to have to move the van to join the Great White queue at the service point while the person in front empties their loo and waste tanks before I can cook dinner.

It also gives the children something to do while I am opening the wine.
Great tip, @Drpps thank you. Already ordered off that Amazon link, the 12l size will be perfect for us. I had been deliberating about a dedicated water carrier - rather than using our used 5l continental water bottles. The fact that this fits - so you say - in the chairs zipper is great.
 

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