What I suggested is the 12v output from the yeti and
What I suggested was if you supply the 12v 20A skt at the rear with the 12v output from the Yeti {not the input with the additional charging adapter that you have to purchase separately} then you be able to provide a 12v supply to the van.
In the process it might top up the leisure battery.
Leaving the 240v inverter switched on the Yeti will be wasting energy and what I was implying is that supplying the 12v system is more efficient than the 240v supply option.
On another point you could make a lead up for the Yeti that simply plugs into the rear 240v skt which avoids the external lead issue.
The downside is if you plug into the Yeti 1st the 13amp plug will have live exposed pins.
So always plug into the van skt 1st and be cautious.
What
The yeti if you use the 12v output must re supply the 12v system.
It
Have you tried what you're suggesting? I highly doubt plugging into the 12v socket from the yetis output, or any other battery generator, will feed back to the 12v circuits and charge the 12v batteries and worse still may damage the vans electrical system.
The vans 12v 'cigarette lighter' socket like most cars is probably a dumb system, i.e. two wires with in-line fuse from the battery. Therefore a feed can go both ways. However, I wouldn't want to trust the rear 12v socket is wired the same, and quite frankly wouldn't trust the cab one is either in these vans as the electrics are a crazy maze of circuits and electrical components. Rather you than me testing your theory!
Im not sure what you mean by:
'On another point you could make a lead up for the Yeti that simply plugs into the rear 240v skt which avoids the external lead issue.'
You don't mean the 3 pin 240v socket do you?
This won't feed the other 240v electrics and could likely seriously damage your van. You would need to reverse the polarity for the system to accept the charge you are trying to give it.(240v circuits have 3 wires and work in one direction unless reversed). Plus it would have no fuse/breaker system in case of an overload. You need to understand that the wires from this socket are part of a ring and the charge would be distributed everywhere with no breaker to stop an overload. This is why the main feed goes to the consumer unit first.
You need to come in at the consumer unit, and the easiest way I can think to do this is to find the external sockets cabling and split it to add another entry point with a socket of some sort.
Perhaps you could let us know your experience in this area. I'm not an electrician, but it sounds like you're spit-balling ideas that have no bearing on reality and worse still could seriously damage owners vans, but I'm not a qualified electrician, so if you are feel free to tell me I'm incorrect!