Leisure batteries and dip switches

[Derry]

Hi All

Fitted new batteries last year and went away for 3 days with no electric hook up so just using leisure batteries with the fridge on and on the 3rd day the battery was flashing with 11.2v. So my understanding is that the batteries where low and thats why the battery was flashing on the display? but would have thought that twin batteries would have lasted a lot longer than 3 days?
Have I got this set up right?
When plugged in to the electric hook up I'm getting 12.2v, and when disconnected from electric hook up and engine running I'm getting 14v.
Going from my research on the dip switches 1 should be on and 2,3,4 should be off is this correct? My dip switches read 1 off 2,3,4 are on am I reading this right?

 

[sidepod]

DIP Switches

Just replaced an old Lead Acid battery with an original GEL (Exide) battery...can anyone confirm these are the correct DIP switch settings for the controller on the CE 1: OFF (1 Battery) 2: OFF (GEL) then 3 and 4 are not that important...not sure what 3 actually does? and 4 just C/F for temps Rob

vwcaliforniaclub.com

 

[Derry]

Thanks Sidepod for your reply.
So my DIP switches in the picture are correct then?

 

[Californication69]

If the little toggle the sticky out bit is up for position 1 then yes.
Then 2,3,4 look like they are down which is off

 

[Derry]

Thank you Bill

 

[Derry]

Just need to work out why the batteries only lasted 3 days now?

 

[Californication69]

what’s the thing that converts 240v to 12v ?
Have you checked that?

 

[Californication69]

Obviously your alternator is charging 14.4 v into battery. So easy Lesuire top up.
240v needs step down transformer.

 

[sidepod]

Just need to work out why the batteries only lasted 3 days now?

This has been discussed many times.
The fridge takes 4.1A (50w / 12v)
On average, the fridge runs around 20mins in the hour depending on ambient temperature and setting.
Divide your leisure battery capacity (Ah) by 20mins and you’ll get the approximate duration.
Fridge cuts out at 10.5v on a T4.

 

[sidepod]

When plugged in on hook up, I see 13.8-14.0 v.

 

[Derry]

When plugged in on hook up, I see 13.8-14.0 v.

Yeah I use to get those around those figures. Only getting 11.9 and its plugged in?

 

[Derry]

And with engine running 13.5

 

[sidepod]

Still running the original Philips charger unit? Doesn’t look like it’s charging to me?

 

[Derry]

Still running the original Philips charger unit? Doesn’t look like it’s charging to me?

Yes I think so? Going to pull it out and take a look.

Been looking at other posts regarding repair and replacing seems there has been quite a bit of success in repair.

Will keep it unplugged for now just in case

Thanks for reply

 

[sidepod]

On that note, an annual removal/vacuum/blow out with airline seems to stop dust build up and over heating.

 

[Derry]

Ok, so removed the split charger and see 2 areas of concern that don't look good.
New unit required or is it repairable?

 

[Derry]

So its a choice between the Fraron unit which says its a straight replacement just need to fit the new temperature sensor which is included 250 euro plus shipping.

Or

The original unit from My Bus Parts (Gunzl) 605 euros plus shipping no messing just plug it in.

Kinda thinking fit original part but quite a saving if I fit the Fraron unit .

What are your thoughts?

Austauschkit IUoU Automatikladegerät 12 Volt 12A + 2A / Westfalia, James Cook, VW T4 / Ford Nugget / California Camping-Bus | FraRon.de | FraRon electronic | Shop online now

BLG14M12V Austauschkit für Westfalia, James Cook, VW T4, Ford Nugget, California Camping-Bus für das original verbaute Philips / Westfalia Ladegerät PE 2169/00, PE 2169/01 bzw. PE 2169/02, James Cook Model 282025345111, Van Conversion 982025345111

www.fraron.de

https://www.mybusparts.de/ladegeraet-12a-2a-220v-passend-fuer-vw-t4-westfalia.html

 

[sidepod]

I’m biased as I always prefer original kit. I did in fact buy an original unit for my last van.
I’m not sure what you have but, I believe the new unit will also have the dual output so you can charge the engine battery at the same time. I’m not sure if the Fraron does this?

Your unit looks repairable but another part may fail, who knows.

If you’ve got the funds sanctioned then I’d go Original.

 

[Derry]

I’m biased as I always prefer original kit. I did in fact buy an original unit for my last van.
I’m not sure what you have but, I believe the new unit will also have the dual output so you can charge the engine battery at the same time. I’m not sure if the Fraron does this?

Your unit looks repairable but another part may fail, who knows.

If you’ve got the funds sanctioned then I’d go Original.

I have the Philips PE2169/00 original equipment I'm not actually sure if it did charge the engine battery? Only because its garaged over the winter and I leave it plugged in and remember the engine battery going flat while it was plugged in to keep the leisure batteries on charge.


The Fraron does have dual output to charge the engine battery but have to buy the cable as an extra for 30 euros.
Wondering whether the Fraron would be better with dealing with the more modern batteries than the original unit?
Fraron characteristics;

• Battery charging mode: 3-stage charging profiles for lead GEL, AGM and LiFePO4 batteries
• Charging output 12A for board battery
• Charging output 2A for starter battery
• Selection of battery type via slide switch
• Selection of the trickle charge voltage via slide switch
• Signal output for mains plug symbol in the central panel with shore power connection
• No integrated fan

 

[Derry]

Also looking at my original unit it doesn't have a 2 pin connection for any plug to charge the engine battery or is this all in the 6 pin connection?

 

[sidepod]

My original Philips unit was only single output but the replacement I bought from Gunzl did have dual output. The additional output for the engine battery was just 2 pin.

 

[sidepod]

The Fraron does look like a nice bit of kit.

 

[Derry]

I have received my chosen charger and purchased the additional wiring kit to charge the engine battery as well and wondering what would be the best route to get the cables from where the charger unit sits under the fridge to the engine battery?

Any words of wisdom not had a nose around yet for the best route.

 

[WelshGas]

I have received my chosen charger and purchased the additional wiring kit to charge the engine battery as well and wondering what would be the best route to get the cables from where the charger unit sits under the fridge to the engine battery?

Any words of wisdom not had a nose around yet for the best route.

You can either wire directly to the engine battery or to the engine battery side of the split charge relay which would be the shorter route. Both leisure and engine battery use the chassis as common ground so have the -tve pole wired to the chassis . You only need to wire the +tve to the engine battery or +tve on the engine side of the split charge relay.

 

[sidepod]

What WG said