5.1 EGR thread

[clarinetbcn]

Have you considered having an oil analysis done to see if there is aluminum oxide contamination? At best it could set your mind at ease, and at worst you could detect a problem before damage is done.

I must have "testing to uncover problem before symptoms show" on my mind.

 

[briwy]

I must have "testing to uncover problem before symptoms show" on my mind.

Already done. Small ammount of nasties but I would imagine there always is otherwise it would be pointless doing oil changes so not really concerned.

 

[pjm-84]

Interesting. Something I'm back thinking about at the moment. Will probably do the oil analysis and then make a decision.

The route others seem to go down is an Tafmet EGR blank kit and DPF delete. Also interesting post on the VW T5.1 / T6 excessive oil use for CFCA 2.0 180hp engines. Facebook page. Someone went down the D EGR cooler route on a 2014 van, initially, and was still receiving high aluminium content so has now blanked.

 

[briwy]

I think it's a difficult decision re blanking the EGR. Whilst it's not illegal to do it it does mean the vehicle no longer conforms to the type approval and may produce more emissions which means it doesn't conform to the Construction and Use regs makng it illegal for road use. The sites I have seen offering this service do tend to point this out, covering their backs I guess.
Having said that, pre Cali days we had mazda Bongos and I blanked the EGR on those (very easy half hour job) and the emmisions actually got better so a hard decision to make on a Cali with a new engine costing an arm and a leg.
It would be interesting to see results of a oil test from a van that has had a new engine fitted and done a few miles as a comparison.

 

[pjm-84]

I do agree with you. I think if VW were a little more forthcoming and came clean, no pun intended, then we wouldn't need to consider the ongoing problem with the 180.

Having read through numerous posts it seems that the ingestion of the EGR cooler exists across the range with the D cooler being less problematic. So blank cooler = bad, D not so bad, but the problem does seem to exist from reports of those who changed to a D as a precaution only to have the problem later down the line.

As the T6.1 doesn't float my boat (paddle included in its mouth) and I cant find a replacement that lives up to the Cali I've just ordered an emulator . Will take an oil analysis before and one again around the same time next year.

DPF stays in. NOX will be up but on the plus side I don't use it around town or short journeys (Offset against my Hybrid vehicles and my PV array)

 

[pjm-84]

Also passes the emissions test but it is a "cheat" device.

 

[silversurfer]

Being the proud but now slightly worried owner from new of a 2010 180bhp DSG SE , which has now covered 35k miles and doesn't use any oil (yet), I went and had a look at my EGR label. The label is a bit ripped, but from what I can see it doesn't say a,b,d or any other letter, just number 7-02756 01

So - question - would it not be a good idea at this point to get a new EGR?

Photo attached to check if I'm looking at the right thing

 

[silversurfer]

Oh - just seen previous replies to say it's not a guaranteed fix. How much would it cost anyway?

 

[TripleBee]

That is not the VW number there. It will be in the lines of 03L 115 512 (blank), A, C or D. Here you have the blank (no suffix)



And some guy that opened the defective EGR cooler: it's in Dutch:

Overzicht WIE ? ' olieverbruik T5 180pk ' - Pagina 11 - https://www.weetjewel.nl

 

[pjm-84]

Blank = Bad.

In 2017, VW was quoting about £1500 to change to a D and asking why I was bothering. A little unknown on a 2015 but the early models have a fair degree of history. Recently read about issues with A, C and D coolers on vans up to 2014. (D being retro fitted)

 

[2into1]

At one end, you can do nothing. At the other end, you can get the oil tested for contaminants from the cooler (and worn cylinders), and consider getting the engine cylinders compression tested. If both of them are OK, swap the cooler to a /d.
I think (think) costs will be between £1k and £1.5k, but if you keep the documentation with the good results, and the invoice for the new cooler swap (as soon as the tests are done), then you'll have added that value to the resale value of your van.
In between these options, you can blank the EGR and code it out, or stick an emulator kit on. More details on the Facebook page. That will take the EGR out of use, together with its ability to disintegrate and damage the engine.

 

[CYCLOPATH]

Hi all,
How do you get an oil test. ?
Just read the thread. My fully serviced 2015SE is fine, with its C DPF, at 30,000 miles
I thought I would oil test for peace of mind before a 3,000 mile trip to greece.
Am I correct in thinking that oil usage will slowly increase over time if there is a problem, and sudden unexpected failure is unlikely?

 

[B J G]

I bought an Oil Tester with a bit of doubt as to it being anything other than a piece of useless kit.
Tested on Cali before and after oil change. Showed oil OK but about 50% contaminated before oil change and all good after change.

Tested on the petrol car again before and after services. Same result as above.

Tested on Historic Car and came up with failure of engine indication. Semi-panic as engine had been completely rebuilt around 1,000mls previously. Oil drained and sump removed. Thick layer of sludge in sump from running in process which I'd obviously gone down into with my suction probe.
tested drained oil and that was in good order.

Result was that for a fairly reasonable cost a check on oil condition can be carried out at any time.

Best method was to use a length of windscreen washer tube, take dipstick out and place the tube next to dipstick and put tape around the tube to show how far down to insert the tube into the dipstick hole so that it doesn't get to the bottom of the sump but into the oil.
Suck oil up the tube to get a sample. Takes forever using the dipstick to get enough oil for a sample.

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[CYCLOPATH]

I bought an Oil Tester with a bit of doubt as to it being anything other than a piece of useless kit.
Tested on Cali before and after oil change. Showed oil OK but about 50% contaminated before oil change and all good after change.

Tested on the petrol car again before and after services. Same result as above.

Tested on Historic Car and came up with failure of engine indication. Semi-panic as engine had been completely rebuilt around 1,000mls previously. Oil drained and sump removed. Thick layer of sludge in sump from running in process which I'd obviously gone down into with my suction probe.
tested drained oil and that was in good order.

Result was that for a fairly reasonable cost a check on oil condition can be carried out at any time.

Best method was to use a length of windscreen washer tube, take dipstick out and place the tube next to dipstick and put tape around the tube to show how far down to insert the tube into the dipstick hole so that it doesn't get to the bottom of the sump but into the oil.
Suck oil up the tube to get a sample. Takes forever using the dipstick to get enough oil for a sample.

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Thanks BJG, I did see that one on google. Does it specifically tell you if there are aluminium particles??
I read it to just tell you if your oil needs changing or not.
there are kits that give a breakdown of whats in the oil for £30 a go, just not sure which is best

 

[Vagophile]

there are kits that give a breakdown of whats in the oil for £30 a go, just not sure which is best

Quite a few owners have used the service provided by Millers oils, which seems to be well regarded.

 

[CYCLOPATH]

Quite a few owners have used the service provided by Millers oils, which seems to be well regarded.

I saw that one, looked good, . £30 for peace of mind ( hopefully)
Thanks

 

[B J G]

Thanks BJG, I did see that one on google. Does it specifically tell you if there are aluminium particles??
I read it to just tell you if your oil needs changing or not.
there are kits that give a breakdown of whats in the oil for £30 a go, just not sure which is best

It uses the metal content in the oil to measure the overall quality. Other than a Laboratory test it seems pretty good as a guide to problems with contamination.
15 minute job anytime with instant result shown. Doubt that a Lab test would be done frequently for peace of mind.

If regular testing after oil change and quality indication deteriorated soon afterwards a poor mechanical engine state could be assumed.

 

[CYCLOPATH]

It uses the metal content in the oil to measure the overall quality. Other than a Laboratory test it seems pretty good as a guide to problems with contamination.
15 minute job anytime with instant result shown. Doubt that a Lab test would be done frequently for peace of mind.

If regular testing after oil change and quality indication deteriorated soon afterwards a poor mechanical engine state could be assumed.

Interesting. Perhaps I could do a £30 lab test, and compare it to the result on one of those, as a sort of calibration.
though i was thinking of doing i just once a year, as long as i continue to use almost no oil

 

[B J G]

This Tester gives the option to check for specific problems

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[pjm-84]

Great news. My aluminium content is down at 14ppm after 4500miles on this oil.

 

[CYCLOPATH]

Gréât News. Remind me, what is an emulator?