Anyone use a wood burner?

drax-power-station-uk-ccs.jpgOf course, Drax B burning biomass produces no particles at all!
Neither does burning heather on grouse moors.
 
Right.
It’s time to get this room sorted.
I half completed the Stove installation. Leaking chimney last year, so whilst that was being re-pointed, we knocked out the chimney breast and ran a new flue down and back filled it.

Recommendations on stoves please. I’ve had Stovax in the past and couldn’t fault them. From this thread Clearview seem pretty good...?
6F9187C7-BF3C-4904-AD8B-01B202F60ED2.jpeg
 
Right.
It’s time to get this room sorted.
I half completed the Stove installation. Leaking chimney last year, so whilst that was being re-pointed, we knocked out the chimney breast and ran a new flue down and back filled it.

Recommendations on stoves please. I’ve had Stovax in the past and couldn’t fault them. From this thread Clearview seem pretty good...?
View attachment 73898
We’ve had a Stovax for about 10 years which has been excellent.

57198998-53D7-4433-B2D2-2946687454CF.jpeg
 
50A2248E-C787-4EC9-B597-C26CE78BE3C1.jpeg0FF0D019-E118-4512-AC35-3E20014098FF.jpegI have a Vermont Intrepid that is stil going after about thirty years, produces lots of heat and uses about 25k of wood a day. I also use a small Ecol Crystal which is sufficient to heat a decent sized living room and burns for about an hour on a couple of 4”x 12” logs. Both are Defra approved and don‘t smoke much. Really dry wood is essential as is an insulated flue of the correct diameter.
 
Can recommend Saltfire, had one fitted about 3 years ago on the recommendation of our chimney sweep. We have also had Esse & Aga stoves in previous houses (the old ones are great, but not sure that they are now built to the same quality as in the past)

0A0BA690-CDFF-49BA-ADFA-A63DA1AA8D4C.jpeg

 
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Cleanburn Norreskoven works well for us. Very easy to light and control heat. Appearance leans towards traditional but with some modern touches (stainless handle, smoother edges etc).
 
I think everyone who has a stove will recommend the one they have, as they all give a lot of pleasure and it's not really practical to 'test drive' different models anyway and most the performance depends on the flue.

Clearviews used to be head and shoulders above a lot of the competition in terms of performance but most of the big brands have caught up now. I would avoid the absolute cheapest stoves but then choose the one you like the look of.
 
Right.
It’s time to get this room sorted.
I half completed the Stove installation. Leaking chimney last year, so whilst that was being re-pointed, we knocked out the chimney breast and ran a new flue down and back filled it.

Recommendations on stoves please. I’ve had Stovax in the past and couldn’t fault them. From this thread Clearview seem pretty good...?
We have a Jotul. Our stove fitter recommended them. They have been around forever and my thinking was being Norwegian they know what they are doing. Very happy with it.
 
Right.
It’s time to get this room sorted.
I half completed the Stove installation. Leaking chimney last year, so whilst that was being re-pointed, we knocked out the chimney breast and ran a new flue down and back filled it.

Recommendations on stoves please. I’ve had Stovax in the past and couldn’t fault them. From this thread Clearview seem pretty good...?
View attachment 73898
Chesney Stoves - outstanding quality material and build.

Edit : Beaumont 6
 
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Woodwarm fireblaze stove. Manufactured in Devon. I had one in a now let out house in Wales installed 6 years ago and it looks great and works well.
 
Right.
It’s time to get this room sorted.
I half completed the Stove installation. Leaking chimney last year, so whilst that was being re-pointed, we knocked out the chimney breast and ran a new flue down and back filled it.

Recommendations on stoves please. I’ve had Stovax in the past and couldn’t fault them. From this thread Clearview seem pretty good...?
View attachment 73898
People are recommending Stoves, without knowing the size of the Flexi flue liner that you've installed or for that matter size of room. If it's a 6 inch liner and you're not fussed about having a current Eco design, then Clearview Pioneer 400 are still one of the best stoves out there, I have one in our living room. I've fitted quite a few helping my son as his labourer and sweep the same 10 or so each year. I recommend them because they just work, fire bricks are quite easy to replace yourself and I have never had ANY negatives of customers about them.
If you have dropped a 5 inch Flexi liner and fancy an Eco design stove ( which is the current standard to fit ), then I would recommend a Clock Blithfield, I have a Clock Blithfield Compact 5kw ready to replace an old Tiger Stove in our dining room, when our son has time to install it with me.
Very recently a bit of fun survey was done on one of the Facebook groups that I'm a member of for Stove Installers & Chimney sweeps,( closed to Public ), the two highest regarded traditional looking stoves were Clock and Clearview.
If you wanted a decent budget Eco design Stove, then take a look at Ecosy stoves on Stove World. They have a few cheap components such as the fire bricks but they can be replaced for better quality bricks quite easily, when they need replacing.
I'd also throw in Chesneys stoves, Esse, Woodwarm, Jotul and Fireline as being decent stoves.
I don't have much experience with Woodwarm, however they are very highly regarded by a lot of Sweeps within my trade aasociation ( Sweep Safe ).
Sorry if this offends anyone but I'd strongly advise against Aga log burners, in particular the Aga Little Wenlock, lots of Chimney Sweeps have cold sweats at night thinking about them, I try to avoid sweeping them at all costs. I find a lot of issues with Stovax stoves, as do other Chimney Sweeps, various models. I don't like burley Fireballs, had a few customers have problems with them. Anything from Machine Mart, Clarke etc make a nice boat anchor.
Lastly if you buy a multi fuel Stove, don't burn smokeless on it as it will rot the liner, very quickly if you try to slumber the stove. Dry wood less than 20% moisture level or below and you won't go wrong. If you get a Log burner only burn wood. If this is teaching you to suck eggs then sorry for the advise but I have to put customers right on a regular basis. Stove shops will try and sell you whatever brands they're tied to, so be aware of that!
Oh and if you're going to board out the inside of your fireplace, don't use any type of plasterboard, GRG board is the way to go. If you're on Facebook and want inspiration, my sons Facebook page is Fleming Stove Installations Ltd, which shows a lot of his work. Neither my son or myself are tied to any showroom or brand, so the advice I've given is impartial just based upon on 28yrs in the trade.
I'd also always recommend using a HETAS registered installer or at least getting building regs to pass it off if you're doing the work yourself. Lots of chimney sweeps, myself included, now refuse to even come out to sweep a stove unless it's been installed by a HETAS installer.
 
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People are recommending Stoves, without knowing the size of the Flexi flue liner that you've installed or for that matter size of room. If it's a 6 inch liner and you're not fussed about having a current Eco design, then Clearview Pioneer 400 are still one of the best stoves out there, I have one in our living room. I've fitted quite a few helping my son as his labourer and sweep the same 10 or so each year. I recommend them because they just work, fire bricks are quite easy to replace yourself and I have never had ANY negatives of customers about them.
If you have dropped a 5 inch Flexi liner and fancy an Eco design stove ( which is the current standard to fit ), then I would recommend a Clock Blithfield, I have a Clock Blithfield Compact 5kw ready to replace an old Tiger Stove in our dining room, when our son has time to install it with me.
Very recently a bit of fun survey was done on one of the Facebook groups that I'm a member of for Stove Installers & Chimney sweeps,( closed to Public ), the two highest regarded traditional looking stoves were Clock and Clearview.
If you wanted a decent budget Eco design Stove, then take a look at Ecosy stoves on Stove World. They have a few cheap components such as the fire bricks but they can be replaced for better quality bricks quite easily, when they need replacing.
I'd also throw in Chesneys stoves, Esse, Woodwarm, Jotul and Fireline as being decent stoves.
I don't have much experience with Woodwarm, however they are very highly regarded by a lot of Sweeps within my trade aasociation ( Sweep Safe ).
Sorry if this offends anyone but I'd strongly advise against Aga log burners, in particular the Aga Little Wenlock, lots of Chimney Sweeps have cold sweats at night thinking about them, I try to avoid sweeping them at all costs. I find a lot of issues with Stovax stoves, as do other Chimney Sweeps, various models. I don't like burley Fireballs, had a few customers have problems with them. Anything from Machine Mart, Clarke etc make a nice boat anchor.
Lastly if you buy a multi fuel Stove, don't burn smokeless on it as it will rot the liner, very quickly if you try to slumber the stove. Dry wood less than 20% moisture level or below and you won't go wrong. If you get a Log burner only burn wood. If this is teaching you to suck eggs then sorry for the advise but I have to put customers right on a regular basis. Stove shops will try and sell you whatever brands they're tied to, so be aware of that!
Oh and if you're going to board out the inside of your fireplace, don't use any type of plasterboard, GRG board is the way to go. If you're on Facebook and want inspiration, my sons Facebook page is Fleming Stove Installations Ltd, which shows a lot of his work. Neither my son or myself are tied to any showroom or brand, so the advice I've given is impartial just based upon on 28yrs in the trade.
I'd also always recommend using a HETAS registered installer or at least getting building regs to pass it off if you're doing the work yourself. Lots of chimney sweeps, myself included, now refuse to even come out to sweep a stove unless it's been installed by a HETAS installer.

I’ve got a 4.5kw Wiking mini 2.

I’ve still got a good stock of wood from landscaping the back garden into its 2nd year of seasoning but was wondering what you think of these long term. ?

No expert with log burners but pleased with the Wiking so far.

I picked up a single 10kg pack and surprised how well they burn and for how long.



Mike
 
I’ve got a 4.5kw Wiking mini 2.

I’ve still got a good stock of wood from landscaping the back garden into its 2nd year of seasoning but was wondering what you think of these long term. ?

No expert with log burners but pleased with the Wiking so far.

I picked up a single 10kg pack and surprised how well they burn and for how long.



Mike
I've no experience with Wiking Stoves Mike but Scandinavian Stoves are generally very well designed. I don't think my son has fitted one either, so I can't ask his opinion on them.
I've recently been given two large bags of " Hot Max", which seems a very similar product to the Ecobaze Pini Kay. We've been quite impressed with them so far, having never used this sort of fuel. I'm not sure how cost effective they work out though? I do notice that quite a few of my customers use this sort of product on their stoves and I've not picked up on any damage caused by them so far, or heard negative press from any of the trade forums that I frequent.
I tend to buy Kiln dried Ash in bulk, ready to burn. As well as any free hardwood that I can get, which I chop and store for two years before using. A moisture meter is useful for testing the logs, I must get one sometime!
 
I've no experience with Wiking Stoves Mike but Scandinavian Stoves are generally very well designed. I don't think my son has fitted one either, so I can't ask his opinion on them.
I've recently been given two large bags of " Hot Max", which seems a very similar product to the Ecobaze Pini Kay. We've been quite impressed with them so far, having never used this sort of fuel. I'm not sure how cost effective they work out though? I do notice that quite a few of my customers use this sort of product on their stoves and I've not picked up on any damage caused by them so far, or heard negative press from any of the trade forums that I frequent.
I tend to buy Kiln dried Ash in bulk, ready to burn. As well as any free hardwood that I can get, which I chop and store for two years before using. A moisture meter is useful for testing the logs, I must get one sometime!

Thanks. I went for it as it was the right size, well made and we liked the look.

I’ve been impressed by how long they last and in bulk would be very economical. A good 6 hours today with 3 logs.

I recently picked up a moisture meter to make it easier picking logs from the pile.


Mike
 
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Thanks @Big Bloke some good info there.
Plan to lime render mix behind the stove as per previous properties. Only downside is you don’t get a super smooth finish, but I actually quite like that look.
I’ve found in the past, season wood is key. Last house I built a wood stove to allow the wood to dry and found wood, older than 18months burned best.

Will have a look at your sons page, cheers :thumb
 
Sorry if this offends anyone but I'd strongly advise against Aga log burners, in particular the Aga Little Wenlock, lots of Chimney Sweeps have cold sweats at night thinking about them, I try to avoid sweeping them at all costs.
Well done BigBloke, an actual expert at last on the thread!

We have Clearview (have had three of them) and a Jotul at home but at another house there are two Agas put in by previous owner. I was certainly quite surprised by how poor their build quality seems to be, versus the Clearviews for example. And they don't light as easily either - I had put that down to the flue but may actually be the stove design.
 
Yes, can’t argue with what BigBloke says. Just to add a little wisdom to his; I think that it is essential to run a stove “hot”. Smouldering burns make your wood last longer but they certainly clog the flue quickly, even with dry wood. It’s worth looking at how much smoke is coming out of your chimney; if it’s more than a slight curl of white then you are doing something wrong.
 
We have used the White Horse Pini Kay briquettes for years now. They are very dry, less than 5%, so burn very hot. We think they are far superior to any logs, including kiln dried. Light very easily, very little smoke and very little soot comes down the chimney on sweeping. We purchase a full pallette once a year which is more than enough, even lighting up most evenings. Lighting at about 2pm then will use between 6_8 briquettes through to 10:30. We would never go back to traditional logs.
 
We have used the White Horse Pini Kay briquettes for years now. They are very dry, less than 5%, so burn very hot. We think they are far superior to any logs, including kiln dried. Light very easily, very little smoke and very little soot comes down the chimney on sweeping. We purchase a full pallette once a year which is more than enough, even lighting up most evenings. Lighting at about 2pm then will use between 6_8 briquettes through to 10:30. We would never go back to traditional logs.

Thanks. I’ll go the same route. Full palette load is good value.

Put my order in.


Mike
 
We have used the White Horse Pini Kay briquettes for years now. They are very dry, less than 5%, so burn very hot. We think they are far superior to any logs, including kiln dried. Light very easily, very little smoke and very little soot comes down the chimney on sweeping. We purchase a full pallette once a year which is more than enough, even lighting up most evenings. Lighting at about 2pm then will use between 6_8 briquettes through to 10:30. We would never go back to traditional logs.
That's interesting to read about burning the briquettes. As I stated on a reply above, we have been given 2 x large bags of " Hot Max" which seems to be a similar product, so far we're quite impressed with them. I've just come in from chopping some logs, ready for seasoning in the log store......I love burning free wood !
 
Yes, can’t argue with what BigBloke says. Just to add a little wisdom to his; I think that it is essential to run a stove “hot”. Smouldering burns make your wood last longer but they certainly clog the flue quickly, even with dry wood. It’s worth looking at how much smoke is coming out of your chimney; if it’s more than a slight curl of white then you are doing something wrong.
Exactly the same advise that we give out to our customers, couldn't of put it better, the only time that there should be easily visible smoke should be on initial lighting.
 

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