Battery problem or not?

[Perfectos]

Is the TV unplugged when not in use ?

 

[Perfectos]

If you want a definitive answer for how much your power TV uses vs the available battery output / time :
what is the available amp hour rating of the battery ?
how many amps does the TV draw When in use?
how many Amps does the TV draw on standby ?

Without knowing these a calculation is impossible.

 

[Brownbetty]

If you want a definitive answer for how much your power TV uses vs the available battery output / time :
what is the available amp hour rating of the battery ?
how many amps does the TV draw When in use?
how many Amps does the TV draw on standby ?

Without knowing these a calculation is impossible.

The TV is never left on & truth be told not used very much.
The main problem is the fridge not lasting longer than a couple of days with nothing but a light on & charging a phone now & again.
Like I've said I'll see what happens nxt wk when away I'll let you know.

 

[dspuk]

I'd agree with what someone said above - it's not clear if the issue is the batteries or your fridge. The fridge does go off when the batteries are too low, but it also can go off if the switch is faulty. You need to check the battery levels when the fridge goes off.

 

[Big Ted]

2008 T5 California SE here.
I replaced some very old OEM batteries in Covid with the Varta LA80’s.
I’ve watched with interest the battery voltage drop over short periods of time from a fully charged battery to a low 12 voltage reading.

I don’t believe I’d see more than 2 days of fridge use as towards to the end of a weekend we’re hovering at about 12.0v.

Personally I’ve checked my be fuse, but all ok.

To help me understand the battery draw more, I bought a small cheap Bluetooth voltage monitor.
It can provide a useful trend of the voltage as shown.
This square pattern is caused by my fridge.

I’ve just discovered Victron also do a monitor, so this evening I’ve just upgraded to this.
Perhaps one of these may help identify something?

 

[Steve1]

2008 T5 California SE here.
I replaced some very old OEM batteries in Covid with the Varta LA80’s.
I’ve watched with interest the battery voltage drop over short periods of time from a fully charged battery to a low 12 voltage reading.

I don’t believe I’d see more than 2 days of fridge use as towards to the end of a weekend we’re hovering at about 12.0v.

Personally I’ve checked my be fuse, but all ok.

To help me understand the battery draw more, I bought a small cheap Bluetooth voltage monitor.
It can provide a useful trend of the voltage as shown.
This square pattern is caused by my fridge.

I’ve just discovered Victron also do a monitor, so this evening I’ve just upgraded to this.
Perhaps one of these may help identify something?View attachment 111479

If you don't have solar and use the fridge on setting 5 which gives an average of 4C inside, range around 2C to 6C mid way up. I would say your 2 days is about right, we get between 2 and 3 depending on how hot it is. I think that's a typical amount. If you see people commenting that they get much longer, it's usually because they are operating their fridge on a very low (higher temperature) setting just as a drink cooler not at proper fridge temperatures this obviously uses much less energy.

 

[AlistairC]

I’d also ask when the van was last on hookup.
I forgot to give the van a top up before my last outing and it had been a couple of months since last hookup charge. Fridge was switched on when I started to drive (set at 4degrees) and it gave a good 24 hrs but took me down to 20%.
Best practice it to hookup at home, get batteries fully charged and fridge down to temp before setting off! Give them a fighting chance, perhaps a few ice packs in there for good measure if you’re without hookup!

 

[AlistairC]

To help me understand the battery draw more, I bought a small cheap Bluetooth voltage monitor.
It can provide a useful trend of the voltage as shown.
This square pattern is caused by my fridge.

I’ve just discovered Victron also do a monitor, so this evening I’ve just upgraded to this.
Perhaps one of these may help identify something?View attachment 111479

which monitor did you have to generate the above? And which Victor. Have you moved to? Looks interesting!

Where on the vehicle’s electrics are they connected? Thanks!

 

[WelshGas]

I’d also ask when the van was last on hookup.
I forgot to give the van a top up before my last outing and it had been a couple of months since last hookup charge. Fridge was switched on when I started to drive (set at 4degrees) and it gave a good 24 hrs but took me down to 20%.
Best practice it to hookup at home, get batteries fully charged and fridge down to temp before setting off! Give them a fighting chance, perhaps a few ice packs in there for good measure if you’re without hookup!

But what was the voltage displayed? That is accurate but the % reading is a " guesstimate " and not to be relied upon.

 

[AlistairC]

But what was the voltage displayed? That is accurate but the % reading is a " guesstimate " and not to be relied upon.

But what was the voltage displayed? That is accurate but the % reading is a " guesstimate " and not to be relied upon.

Indeed. The 20% linked to 12.0v so battery not at ‘critical’ health levels in terms of battery damage but did (fairly) indicate a low level after 24 hrs - largely through my own power mis-management!

 

[dspuk]

2008 T5 California SE here.
I replaced some very old OEM batteries in Covid with the Varta LA80’s.
I’ve watched with interest the battery voltage drop over short periods of time from a fully charged battery to a low 12 voltage reading.

I don’t believe I’d see more than 2 days of fridge use as towards to the end of a weekend we’re hovering at about 12.0v.

Personally I’ve checked my be fuse, but all ok.

To help me understand the battery draw more, I bought a small cheap Bluetooth voltage monitor.
It can provide a useful trend of the voltage as shown.
This square pattern is caused by my fridge.

I’ve just discovered Victron also do a monitor, so this evening I’ve just upgraded to this.
Perhaps one of these may help identify something?View attachment 111479

Looks like a classic fridge on and off cycle as it regulates temperature?

 

[Big Ted]

which monitor did you have to generate the above? And which Victor. Have you moved to? Looks interesting!

Where on the vehicle’s electrics are they connected? Thanks!

The first monitor was a cheapo Chinese one.
The app is ok, and offers historical logging.
The Victron is a Battery Sense Monitor.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RTYGMBD?tag=eliteelect-21

This monitor also monitors the temperature of the battery and can link to a Victron MPPT charger to share more info.

I’d recommend spending a few pounds more and go for the Victron.
It simply connects to the battery posts and you stick the monitor to the side of the battery.
A 10 min job really.

I’ve attached screen shots from the Victron software, along with a similar date stamp from a Bluetooth temp monitor in the fridge showing it’s running at ‘proper’ fridge temps.

 

[AlistairC]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RTYGMBD?tag=eliteelect-21
also monitors the temperature of the battery and can link to a Victron MPPT charger to share more info.

I’d recommend spending a few pounds more and go for the Victron.
It simply connects to the battery posts and you stick the monitor to the side of the battery.
A 10 min job really.

Sounds good - so it can be used standalone without any other additional (charger / solar systems etc) devices?

I presume it remains accurate enough connecting over just one battery since the two aux batteries are in parallel and therefore theoretically holding the same charge / loading?

I wonder what the parasitic draw is for its continuous Bluetooth transmissions - I’d imagine it’d prefer not to be powered down so frequently.

 

[Big Ted]

Sounds good - so it can be used standalone without any other additional (charger / solar systems etc) devices?

I presume it remains accurate enough connecting over just one battery since the two aux batteries are in parallel and therefore theoretically holding the same charge / loading?

I wonder what the parasitic draw is for its continuous Bluetooth transmissions - I’d imagine it’d prefer not to be powered down so frequently.

Indeed, no need for other equipment, but it can compliment other Victron kit if you have it.

Since the batteries are in parallel there’s no point in buying two, it simply see’s the pair as a large 12V battery.

I’d imagine the draw is minimal, but since my Cali is a daily driver it’s never stood still for long without the alternator charging things up.
It wouldn’t be hard to pop an accessible switch in line with this unit if it were a major issue, but I can’t see it causing any dramatic issue.

I’ve toyed with adding a Victron smart shunt in series to the VW one, just to see more data on the app, but it doesn’t really bring any thing useful. We all know the fridge and heater pull a power when they are on. Anyone else install one?

 

[Brownbetty]

If you don't have solar and use the fridge on setting 5 which gives an average of 4C inside, range around 2C to 6C mid way up. I would say your 2 days is about right, we get between 2 and 3 depending on how hot it is. I think that's a typical amount. If you see people commenting that they get much longer, it's usually because they are operating their fridge on a very low (higher temperature) setting just as a drink cooler not at proper fridge temperatures this obviously uses much less energy.

I'm back from my 8days away without hook up and please to say the fridge on number 4 setting never went off, but it was not a very good gauge because nothing else was on we came in late at night (lots of entertainment on in social tent) so minimum lights on before bed & charged phones up.
I think taking the batteries out and putting back in as done something, maybe I had a loose connection on one.
Anyway I'm not complaining I'll keep watching it when more things are switched on like heating and TV.
Thanks everyone for your response

 

[Brownbetty]

I'm back from my 8days away without hook up and please to say the fridge on number 4 setting never went off, but it was not a very good gauge because nothing else was on we came in late at night (lots of entertainment on in social tent) so minimum lights on before bed & charged phones up.
I think taking the batteries out and putting back in as done something, maybe I had a loose connection on one.
Anyway I'm not complaining I'll keep watching it when more things are switched on like heating and TV.
Thanks everyone for your response

hi everyone, the latest on the fridge issues.
went away on the Friday for the wkend fridge working fine Saturday moved 4 mile stopped for lunch & watched the second half of the England match everything working fine, moved the van another 5 mile & parked up for the night watched the tv for any 2.5 hrs tops went to bed everything fine control panel showing 12.6 woke up in the night and saw the fridge light off panel showing 12.6 tried to reset it but the tick for the switch on kept turning off, nxt morning tried again the panel showing 12.8 it lasted a few minutes & went down to 10.4 when the fridge went off it went back to 12.6.
We moved another 30 mile fridge working fine on the night played cards with reading light on over kitchen table for abt 2hrs went to bed control panel showing 12.6 fridge working fine got up in the morning the fridge was off, we were moving again so started to drop the roof the control panel displayed ( please start engine) this came on yesterday when we lowered roof, I've never seen this before when lowering, any idea what's happening.

 

[Californication69]

The fridge won’t run if the starter motor battery is low.
I know. I’ve been away from California for 2 weeks. Fridge on for 10 days.
Last 4 days fridge went off.
Tested starter battery.
Showing 11.8v

VWCV told me the fridge is also powered and monitored by the roof top control panel.
The control panel is run by the starter battery.
So even when my lesuire is at 14,4v in sun and 360w solar topping up my lesuire.
The Duo Racer MPPT did not trickle my starter.
Thus my fridge went off.
And my starter very low.
Ran engine for 20 miles on max charge to get some juice in.

(My issue is with Epever DuoRacer solar charger, it’s not trickle charging my starter motor)

So your problem is probs starter battery is low.
Measure your starter volts….

 

[Roger Boeken]

The fridge won’t run if the starter motor battery is low.
I know. I’ve been away from California for 2 weeks. Fridge on for 10 days.
Last 4 days fridge went off.
Tested starter battery.
Showing 11.8v

VWCV told me the fridge is also powered and monitored by the roof top control panel.
The control panel is run by the starter battery.
So even when my lesuire is at 14,4v in sun and 360w solar topping up my lesuire.
The Duo Racer MPPT did not trickle my starter.
Thus my fridge went off.
And my starter very low.
Ran engine for 20 miles on max charge to get some juice in.

(My issue is with Epever DuoRacer solar charger, it’s not trickle charging my starter motor)

So your problem is probs starter battery is low.
Measure your starter volts….

Strange: our fridge also went off after exact 6 days. All batteries are good. Could start fridge again. ( in sweden now and today bad weather).

 

[Californication69]

Strange: our fridge also went off after exact 6 days. All batteries are good. Could start fridge again. ( in sweden now and today bad weather).

VW Birmingham said they had reset the error codes of the fridge.
I don’t know where they would have reset the codes.
Would it be where the engine error codes are stored ?
Or in the control panel?
Why would the fridge give an error.
Because it had been on for a long time, makes no sense to me. And VW are vague as hell
If I put my starter BATT on trickle charge then I can leave fridge on for 2 weeks.
Sorry not fridge “cool box”