Carcasonne and Catalonia

[skinnywhippet]

We're planning an Easter visit to Carcasonne, Perpignan and the northern part Catalonia. No set itinerary, just that general area, although probably including the Costa Brava. So, we'd be really interested if anyone has any suggestions of where to go, what to see and in particular good campsites (dog-friendly). Thanks in advance!

 

[Gasgas]

We Stayed in the municipal site in Carcasonne in August it was perfectly good and just a short walk from the site into the old town.

 

[skinnywhippet]

Thanks that's useful - we'll probably go there for a day or two.

 

[Tulgey]

Whatever else you do, you must visit Rennes le Chatteau.

Google it first, then you won't be able to resist a visit.

 

[Pineweasel]

In the Perpignan area I'd recommend visiting Collioure, which is a picturesque fishing village near the Spanish border with museums, galleries and a good market. It does get very crowded though. There's a nice looking campsite just north of Collioure (Les Criques de Porteils) but when we visited last August it was full and the town was impossible to park in, so we camped in the Pyrenees foothills and took the train from Argeles-sur-Mer; free parking at the station and a cheap 5 minute ride to Collioure.

 

[briwy]

Have a look at the Canal du Midi as well while you're round there and if time go cross country by way of Villefranche de Conflent and take a trip on the Yellow Train. Fabulous montain scenery.
https://www.ter.sncf.com/languedoc-roussillon/loisirs/ligne-touristique-train-jaune
http://about-france.com/tourism/yellow-train-pyrenees.htm

 

[dfps]

Take a look at this forum. http://www.anglophone-direct.com/
You can download their monthly magazine for free as pdf files. You can go back many months and download them all.
They give a good insight into many events, activities,walks and sightseeing opportunities in the area.
They also have a facebook page called PO Life https://www.facebook.com/groups/781185495231402/

If you are into walking. This is a good Languedoc facebook page

https://www.facebook.com/groups/337053039794196/

and this has general info about the region https://www.facebook.com/groups/599685640120102/

Many of the car parks close to the beaches and in Collioure have barriers lower than the Cali height which are in place during the Summer to stop people overnighting ---some may be removed for the Winter months.

Are you going to stay at campsites or do you intend to go off site ?

We know this area pretty well so if you need to know anything please feel free to pm me.

 

[skinnywhippet]

Thanks for all the info and links, much appreciated. In response to dfps thanks for offer of extra advice. We plan to use campsites, and will ask if we have any particular questions. Before we bought the Cali last year we hadn't ever camped so are easing ourselves in gently, but we wouldn't rule-out off-site if it seems the right thing when we're there.

 

[andyinluton]

I'm watching this thread carefully as we are off to Tamariu in Catalonia on Friday night, a quick blast down the french motorway to get there.
Only sleeping in the van on the way there & back as we found a Huge Villa with pool in a good location for only a few pounds per night more than the campsite wanted. Going to do a bit of scouting around to try & get a decent site for the summer holidays.

Anyone know the quickest route? current plan is cross channel Friday evening, aim South get past Paris before we stop for a sleep, keep foot to the floor & get there ASAP. Return journey can be a bit more relaxed.

 

[skinnywhippet]

Anyone know the quickest route? current plan is cross channel Friday evening, aim South get past Paris before we stop for a sleep, keep foot to the floor & get there ASAP. Return journey can be a bit more relaxed.

We'll race you down, also leaving Friday Evening and aiming to get as far as Brive for Saturday lunch. I'm told best route on that side of France is via Rouen now the bridge has re-opened, but Paris should also be quick in the middle of the night. We'd be tempted to use the new A86 tunnel around Paris but with bikes we'll be too high.

 

[andyinluton]

What times your crossing? we are booked for 22.30
Last year heading to Sarlat with my son navigating with a map we skirted round paris via Versailles in the rush hour that seemed seemed pretty quick . This time he's on a school trip so I will have to rely on the satnag.

As we did Sarlat to calais last year comfortably in a day driving a coach built motorhome at a steady 60mph we are hoping the extra 250 miles down to Catalonia isn't going to take much longer in a cali doing the speed limit.

So am thinking we will go Paris, Orleans,Brive then Perpignan. Had thought about further east via Riems, Dijon, Lyon etc but none of the route planners seem to suggest that way.

Everyone thinks I'm mad driving that far but I reckon the Luton-Folkstone bit is the hard bit. I've even prepared this time and got the sanef automatic toll tag to save messing about paying at the tolls, especially if the Mrs is asleep.

 

[briwy]

Yes, down to Paris, then just motorway past Clermont Ferrand, Narbonne and on down into Spain.
We do Calais down to the Pyrenees in around 12 hours allowing for a couple of breaks so I reckon your're probably looking at roughly 14 hours all in. This will take in the Millau Bridge as well, the motorway is toll free for a lot down from Clermont Ferrand but the bridge is tolled, 7 Euros I think last time we went over it.

 

[skinnywhippet]

Our crossing is later - 1.50am. We did Gloucestershire to Samoens in one go at half-term and is was OK, but we will take it more slowly on the way back too, seeing the Millau bridge and also finding a vet somewhere in France for the pet passport box-ticking. We have had an APRR tag for a few years and wouldn't be without it.

 

[barry]

We Stayed in the municipal site in Carcasonne in August it was perfectly good and just a short walk from the site into the old town.

I'd go for this, too. 10 min walk along a stream/river to the Cite then the Old Town an extra 5 mins. Visit the Cantine de Robert Rodriguez in the old town. Best chef in Carcasson by miles (kms even). Don't miss it. His take on the ubiquitous cassoulet is exceptional (nobody in the restaurant speaks english).

 

[skinnywhippet]

Municipal site at Carcasonne seems a good start and then we'll take it from there in view of all the info above. The dogs are looking forward to cassoulet (apart from the beans).

 

[dfps]

AndyinLuton.

Alternative route via Limoges direction rather than Clermont.
I have done both routes many times.Each has their benefits and drawbacks and what time of year and if you are towing.

Limoges direction has less steep up and down sections and is a better Winter route due to the other route being a lot higher in places and susceptible to snow/ice conditions.

It also depends on what ferry route you take ( or tunnel ) because this alters your start position in France and could affect your route choice.

I frequently use Le Havre but have also used Newhaven - Dieppe ( both DFDS ferries )

The route I take then is Le Havre or Dieppe > Evreux > Dreux > Chartres ( this avoids Paris ) > Orleans > Vierzon ( you can then choose to go Limoges or Clermont routes ) but I normally go Limoges > Brive > Toulouse > Carcasonne > Narbonne > Perpignan .
That's where we stop. We have a villa near there.

You would carry on the A9 cross the Spanish border and personally I would exit after La Jonquera and follow the N11 then C31 to Tamariu but if you prefer you can stay on the A9 to Gerona then cross country to Tamariu

I have done the journey in both directions ( often towing ) and favour the Limoges route personally.

Good luck---hope the weather is good for you.

 

[Pouzols]

I live in the Languedoc region and would agree that Carcassonne Cite is well worth a visit, suggest you then head South and follow the route of the Canal Du Midi which peacefully winds its way down to the Mediterranean coast, passing through Trebes, Homps (close to Minerve I think one of the finest villages in the whole of France) the majority (if not all) of the villages along the canal allow/welcome off site stop overs.
France offers attractive free parking with its network of "aire du repos" (rest areas) which are very frequent, many provide toilets, picnic areas and are doggy friendly, also the web site www.camping-municipal.org offers plenty of sites.
If you do cross the border don't miss Figueres (near Girona), the Salvador Dali Museum is a must, but get there early.
Check out fuel prices before you cross see www.prix-carburants.gouv.fr
Have a good trip.

 

[skinnywhippet]

An update for anyone interested and those who provided advice in this thread, although many of the tips will be used another time as we changed our itinerary after a few days. A night in Brive was followed by another at Carcasonne (very acceptable municipal site, although Cantine de Robert Rodriguez closed on a Sunday unfortunately), and then we headed for Collioure.

We stayed at www.lescriques.fr, and I can see why it's busy in Summer, with the campervan pitches on a steep terraced area facing the bay, and Collioure or Argelès-sur-Mer a short walk or bike ride away. The picture below illustrates the idyllic setting, but Sammy the whippet isn't admiring the view, he's looking for his bed that has just flown over the hedge towards the sea, along with anything else we hadn't pegged to the ground, and a few things that we had.



The Tramontane wind was unbelievably strong and consistent, and the overall effect was more Middlesbrough than Mediterranean. They say it's the wind that can drive you mad, but it drove us to a detailed study of wind maps and weather forecasts, and we could see it was set to stay for a week or so. We realised that driving East along the coast would just be swapping the Tramontane for the Mistral, going inland would be cool and wet, and to escape the constant gale by heading to Spain we'd have to travel further South than we wanted.

So after two days of life in a wind tunnel we drove across France to Arcachon and spent an extremely pleasant week at www.camping-arcachon.com which is walking distance from the town and very close to the cycle path network. Arcachon is ideal if you like your beaches perfect and your dunes very big.

Then on the way back our favourite campsite of the trip, and maybe of all time (although we have only been camping a year or so) www.loireetchateaux.com for several days. A new site with a very warm pool, excellent facilities, and on the Loire cycle network. It's privately owned and the whole family (including children and a huge shaggy dog) are very welcoming.

The van is a year old and we had our first minor glitches, the ones factory fitted as standard: tailgate brake light cover and screw attaching the gas strut to fridge lid both fell out. Resolved with glue and purchase of new allen key set respectively. I taped the little fridge screw in place with gaffer tape which might stop it working loose again.

Are Eurotunnel becoming more picky with the gas check or were we unlucky? On the way back we had to remove three bikes to show them the actual bottle, as demonstrating the cooker not working wasn't good enough. I didn’t bother to secure the VW rack when lifting the tailgate so of course it fell on my head when I lowered the tailgate, giving the officious gas checking operatives a free sample of English expletives.