Eberspacher replacement?

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Hi,

Has anyone replaced the Eber with something more modern?

I have the D2L which is working intermittently and occasionally refusing to shutdown. Each time I think I've found the problem it turns out that I haven't :cry: I'm pretty sure now that it's the ECU, which is no longer available.

Just wondering what my options are, particularly with replacing it with another external unit?

Anyone?

ta,
dan

 

[Retiredron]

Hi,

Has anyone replaced the Eber with something more modern?

I have the D2L which is working intermittently and occasionally refusing to shutdown. Each time I think I've found the problem it turns out that I haven't :cry: I'm pretty sure now that it's the ECU, which is no longer available.

Just wondering what my options are, particularly with replacing it with another external unit?

Anyone?

ta,
dan

Hi Dan, is this any good http://sales.butlertechnik.com/eberspac ... hange-unit
Ron.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Thanks Ron. Not sure that one will fit in the box and it says it needs an additional box to mount outside.

I found one that the T3 crowd have been using that fits in the box (Webasto air top 2000). The early T4 Calis share the same system as the late T3 Jokers/Atlantics. I just need to get a bit more info and also stop my accountant from crying uncontrollably

 

[sidepod]

Dan,

I'd be tempted by the same unit VW fit to the T5 Cali.
Don't ask me what the model is. I'm sure if you wander over to the dark side you'll find someone to give you all the intel you require.

If you're buying new I hope your pockets and deep?

Sell it to the bean counter on the basis of greatly improved heat/comfort etc. Oh, and obviously lie about the cost.

S.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

The standard response on van parts and work is "Dunno, don't think it was expensive"

I did wonder about the T5 Cali heater, but I don't know how it is mounted. Can anyone tell me if it is internal or external? The late T3s had the same heater, mounted in the same way, which is why I think that might be a good solution.

The good news is that it started every time we needed it this weekend (which was nice, the van was covered in ice when we woke on Saturday morning), but it was refusing to shut down. Easy enough to get around, just pull the fuse. Not the most elegant of solutions though!

dan

 

[Retiredron]

The standard response on van parts and work is "Dunno, don't think it was expensive"

I did wonder about the T5 Cali heater, but I don't know how it is mounted. Can anyone tell me if it is internal or external? The late T3s had the same heater, mounted in the same way, which is why I think that might be a good solution.

The good news is that it started every time we needed it this weekend (which was nice, the van was covered in ice when we woke on Saturday morning), but it was refusing to shut down. Easy enough to get around, just pull the fuse. Not the most elegant of solutions though!

dan

Dan, if the heater works but not shuting off is the thermostat at fault ! is it the early rotary knob type ?
Ron.

 

[BerndRos]

These heaters are very expensive

Thought my Ardic circa 1992 had given up the ghost but today had been got back into tip top order by replacing the overheat sensor.....at little cost

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

From what I can gather, the starting/stopping issue is related. The thermostat appears to be working, when the heater is running.

Yes, the heaters are expensive, but if it comes to the worst I'm pretty sure I can get a suitable replacement now. But I am trying to work out if I can fix it first... I'll have a look at the overheat sensor - if it was faulty - would it cause the fan to no shut down until it was not registering overheating?

 

[vw_liz]

Hi Dan,

I guess you may have already seen this document on troubleshooting? I will post it in case it is of use to you or others.

http://www.sales.butlertechnik.com/tech ... manual.pdf

Liz and Jim

 

[sidepod]

Thermostats and overheat sensors generally fail open circuit, ie a fail will stop the unit.

There are two sensors (from memory) wired in series which are easy to check from the harness connector behind the fuse panel.
I'll dig out the wiring diagram and get the colours. That said, they are in series with the glow plug starter circuit so any fail would stop the unit from firing up.

Once it's running the only supply to the unit is the fan and the fuel pump. All other circuitry is monitoring back up the control unit. To stop the unit you need to interrupt the fuel pump supply.

The control unit does this and at the same time switches the fan over onto Cold to cool down the heater unit for a short time.

Obviously you're still getting a voltage to the pump so I'd suspect it's the control unit as your original diagnosis.

I'll dig out the wiring diagram in the morning and have a think.

S.

 

[sidepod]

Dan,

Ok first thing I'd check is which unit is causing your problem, either the small panel above the sink that switches the heater/fan on/off OR the control box housed behind the trim panel behind the drivers seat.

1. If you switch on the cold fan only at the small panel does the fan run? This function is independent of the control box.

2. Remove the trim panel to access the control box. Pull out the two connectors. At the small two pin connector you need to confirm +12v when the heating is switched on. This is pin 7 yellow wire.
So switch on the heat at the control panel and measure the voltage at pin 7. The important thing is to confirm the voltage is removed when the heating is switched OFF. (Note this is also the supply to the fuel pump).

If the voltage remains then it would suggest your problem is at the small control panel.

3. If you need to go further then : I'd confirm the operation of the Temp Switch. This is what switches off the glow plug after 90 seconds. If this isn't switching off then the glow plug may be on constantly causing the unit to run.

So plug the connectors back in to the control box and switch on the heating. At this point you will have +12v at pin 1 of the 6 pin connector (White wire). This supplies the glow plug via the Temperature switch. At this point you will also have +12v at pin 8 (white wire of two pin plug).
Start the stop watch and time 90 seconds. After 90 seconds you should see the 12v at pin 8 disappear. This means the glow plug has switched off and your Temp Switch is working correctly.

4. One other check worth doing is to confirm the safety thermal cutout is ok. Switch off the heating. Remove the 6 pin plug from the control box. Set your multi meter to continuity and check from pin 5 to any earth. You should have continuity.

Let me know how you get on. Failure is not an option.

http://www.westfaliat4.info/eberB2L-D2L.pdf page 12.

S.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Cheers for the info. Very good stuff. Hopefully get some time to take a look soon.

Cheers
Dan


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sidepod]

Dan,

Another thought, you may have a similar problem to one I had.

Inside the small control panel (above the sink) are two small pcb's. These are mounted at 90 degrees to each other and linked by soldered wire strappers.

I had an intermittent fault with my heater. I discovered all of the solder joints described above were dry.

Once re-soldered all worked fine.

It's really easy to open up and check so I'd look in there too.

S.

 

[TwentyOneThirtyFive]

Thanks Mr Pod, I'll add it to the list of things to check.

I have the wiring diagrams although they mostly look a bit like spaghetti to me, but I can wield a soldering iron without getting too badly injured.

 

[Roadiesean]

I’m reigniting the glow plug on this thread in the faint hope I can get me Eber working again.

I’ve had my van about 4 years and the heater has never worked. Now I’m going to the Outer Hebrides and it’s become urgent. I took the van to a repair place a few years ago they charged me £150 for a service but told me it was unlikely to work as it was so old. Thanks.

So. My fan works from the control unit but that is it. If I set it to heat nothing happens. Nothing at all. Any thoughts ?

I’m ok at electrics so will have a look at the two control panels but I’m not sure the problem lies there.

Anything I can try ?

If no suggestions can I fit a new Eber or Chinese copy in the same place ????? It’s a 1994 California Coach.

Thanks guys.

 

[Roadiesean]

I’ve just been out in the rain and taken a photo of the underside of the unit. It’s a D2L model 25 1725 01. That help ?

I’m desperate on this. Any help would be amazing. Thanks.

 

[calikev]

you should be able to fit a planer or chinese copy in the same place

 

[sidepod]

Well all I can suggest is reading through the stuff on this thread and search on similar. Everything I would try has been written here.

Start with a new glow plug first, at least then you can rule that out.
Make sure you have 12v at the glow plug when the unit is switched on and calling for heat.

Essentially they are very simple bits of kit.

Keeps us informed

 

[Nick Stubbs]

Fitted with the glow plug is a stainless steel tubular fine mesh thing which needs replacing with the glow plug as a source of trouble is they get carboned up, Difficult to get out and will proberbly get damaged doing so, If you get a service kit it comes with the tools to get the plug out and a tool to put the new screen in. PF Jones have a stock of parts and I managed to find a service manual on line, a new glow plug is not far of the price of one of those Chineese copys. They are a fairly simple thing once you get it apart.

 

[Roadiesean]

Thanks guys. I feel that (and its from memory as I’m away and can’t access the invoice) they replaced the glow plug last time. I wonder whether a replacement of the whole thing would be a better option if it will fit. The Chinese copies (or an Airtronic D2 second hand) looks very different in shape to what I have got.
Does the newer style vacuum cleaner type shape ones need a carrier or will they fit the same fittings as the old one ?
And finally will the intakes and outputs all be the same or do I need new piping ?

Sorry for all the questions but I haven’t got a scooby!!!

 

[Nick Stubbs]

Thanks guys. I feel that (and its from memory as I’m away and can’t access the invoice) they replaced the glow plug last time. I wonder whether a replacement of the whole thing would be a better option if it will fit. The Chinese copies (or an Airtronic D2 second hand) looks very different in shape to what I have got.
Does the newer style vacuum cleaner type shape ones need a carrier or will they fit the same fittings as the old one ?
And finally will the intakes and outputs all be the same or do I need new piping ?

Sorry for all the questions but I haven’t got a scooby!!!

Sorry cant help with that one, if you can find the installation manuals for them there will be some dimensions to give you an idea.

 

[flying banana]

to me it should be the 'flame detector' or 'magic eye' that shuts off the glow plug when detecting flame in the burner tube. if you have been pulling the fuse to shut down this would stop the heater purging and you end up with a small fire burning in the tube that is unable to exhaust as the air fans aren't running-this carbons up your heater inside and if it has a magic eye for the flame sensor then that will be blacked up with soot. maybe a strip down and service will solve it. ? i'm not an expert on these by the way just some of my thoughts.

 

[sidepod]

Anything involving the word Chinese will be garbage. Fact.

 

[bluerallye]

I replaced mine (original petrol Eber inconsistent lighting / difficulty sourcing parts / looming trip in sub-zero temps) with a Propex HS2211 that mounts neatly into the existing space and utilised the same heated air inlet and outlet ducting paths.

Had to fabricate a couple of mounting brackets but that was a 30m job. I chose the Propex as we have an underslung LPG tank option on ours so just tap off that. Retained all the original ducting, looms and control panels should there ever be a need to fit the Eber back....looking at the glow-plug would be my first call.

Propex is plug and play, nice and simple to fit and costs me £6 to refill the tank at the pumps which lasts me about a year with that and the cooker. Took me a day all in from start to finish (removal, fabricating, pipework etc) and its as warm as the Eber was and a bit quieter.

Costs were roughly £500 for the HS2211 and kit plus about £20 for the sundries to fit (pipe, t-piece, angle iron / plate for brackets)

 

[Roadiesean]

Glow plug wasn’t changed. I spoke to them today. Suggested trying with the engine running. No good. The damn Ian working which suggests power but there’s nothing else. Not even warm exhaust.

I have discovered though that the D2 needs to be fitted in a box which is £130 minimum. For basically a metal box. What a rip off. God these things are overpriced.