Electric side door conversion to fully manual?

Continued...

Once removed - mind the cable end does not flick off into an eye - you can see the drive motor:

View attachment 29814

So pop the cover off minus the pulleys. I did not but you can of course isolate the power to the motor to fully incapacitate it but it no longer has any connection to the door mechanism so will simply rotate freely and then stop if activated by the remote control accidently. To disable the dash switch you need to add a jumper across the terminals shown:

View attachment 29816

That's it. AFAIK the door tracks and major mechanical parts are the same and once you have removed the drag from the cable/motor then to operate the door in fully manual mode is a joy to behold (especially if you have been fighting the thing for more than a month previously!). It feels like every other manual VW van door I have ever used.
Thanks for the info.
Anyone considering doing might want to look at YouTube. There's are good video of a mechanic replacing the cable drive. It does give a good few tips on removal of the side panel.
 
Yes IIRC, but very simple - just a couple of screws. Tricky bit is getting the panel off (and back on) without scratching anything or deforming it.

Last question, maybe, do you lose the soft close element if you go manual?

Thank you
 
No - it's a separate part - if you look at the C pillar lock mechanism as you close the door from inside you will see the cam lock operate and 'pull' the door in.
 
Many thanks @Max-Felix my cable gave up on Saturday - was all over this Sunday and took about 30 mins today to carry out the conversion to manual - I wish we had done it years ago! Certainly an easier job than worrying about cable tensions, and wrestling with the door in manual when camping.

Also found one of the trim clips was already broken - may explain an intermittent rattle in the door area so I might just replace when the temperature warms up if I can satisfy my brain that this is the cause.
 
Light off, panel off, cut cables, take out reels. So. Much. Better. and reversible if needed, but would take longer
 
My completely dead door is at a nonVW garage at the moment. If they can’t fix it then I will attempt this. The garage was clear “not really our thing”.

My only worry is that my soft close isn’t functioning either. In fact I haven’t been able to shut the door for more than a week. I’m therefore worried that this won’t actually help me much. Reading the links @Max-Felix put to the brick-yard forums there was a mention of a second battery confusing the door. My problem coincided with the leisure batteries being flat. I thought as the door is powered by the engine battery that this had nothing to do with it, but now not sure.

Mine really is dead as a door nail. No lights on the dash switches, nothing. I’ve tried all the fuses, including the ones under the starter battery.
 
I’d get an auto electrician on it if you *really* want to keep the option. The soft close is a separate entity but if that’s also kaput I’d start with seeing if a + feed to the door electrics is present.
 
Thanks for the reply.

My 2nd South London garage with a 4.3 google rating just charged me £100 and said they couldn’t find a fault. My usual VW specialist were clear they don’t do doors!

I‘ve got to the point where I would just be happy if I could close the door. I don’t see what is stopping it closing.

I’m now kind of thinking the motor or door module have got wet and that has fritzed the whole thing.
It’s very tempting to just cut the cable and see if I can get it to manual close. My neighbour has a T6 van and is quite keen to help. Plus I can look at his manual door. If we cut the cable I feel we are then dealing with a mechanical problem which we may be able to fix whereas the electric problems were beyond me.
I don’t have a multimeter but it’s looking like I may need one!
 
Last edited:
I couldn’t agree more! If you cut the cable then don’t feel the most amazing feeling of relief and joy once you push the door shut by hand I’ll eat my hat…;):thumb
 
Well, we’ll find out tomorrow.

If it doesn’t work then Friday will be a desperate day of swearing and trying to work out why it won’t shut.

Anyway thanks for the instructions.
 
Continued...

I did not take many photos at the time but will share the ones I did.

You will see the main motor and pulley assembly behind this cover:



View attachment 29810

IIRC there are two screws to remove and you then prise the cover off to reveal:

View attachment 29812

(No pic) but this is obviously the parts removed - when still mounted you will see the cable running around this pulley - simple thing next - snip it! Drastic yes but it solves the issue 100% and it could always be replaced if you (or a future buyer) really wanted to. You need to do the same at the main attachment point to the door itself by the C pillar. Again IIRC, do this by the ferrule pictured:

View attachment 29813
Btw, why have you ringed this? you don’t seem to say.
It looks like a catch.
 
In post #45? Don't know, was a long time ago and my brain is not getting any younger!
 
Decided it was a bad idea as the soft close is stopping the door closing.
IMG_3862.jpeg
Just so dead. I don’t think I will end up with a shutting door.

Found a door module for sale but said it was 2010-16. I’m 2008.

Went back and changed the 100A fuse under the starter battery. Still no joy.
IMG_3868.jpeg
Contemplating ringing Hazzydayz.
 
My completely dead door is at a nonVW garage at the moment. If they can’t fix it then I will attempt this. The garage was clear “not really our thing”.

My only worry is that my soft close isn’t functioning either. In fact I haven’t been able to shut the door for more than a week. I’m therefore worried that this won’t actually help me much. Reading the links @Max-Felix put to the brick-yard forums there was a mention of a second battery confusing the door. My problem coincided with the leisure batteries being flat. I thought as the door is powered by the engine battery that this had nothing to do with it, but now not sure.

Mine really is dead as a door nail. No lights on the dash switches, nothing. I’ve tried all the fuses, including the ones under the starter battery.
There are a few You Tube videos on how to repair it. Made me glad I didn't have it to worry about.
an example

 
There are a few You Tube videos on how to repair it. Made me glad I didn't have it to worry about.
an example

Ta but I wish that was my problem.

No power to it at all.
 
Is the Dashboard switch still showing the door is in Manual mode?
Neither switches are showing any sign of life at all. It seems a power issue but having checked all the fuses and even changing fuse 3 under the battery even though it looked ok I’m stumped.

I cannot currently shut the door. Even in manual mode the soft close should work I believe.

There is a suggested hack on T6 Forum of removing under seat fuse, leave it a while, start the engine, stop, remove key and then put the fuse back in that I’m trying this morning but not hopeful.

Edit: didn’t work

T6 Forum seems to have a lot of door posts.

I’m supposed to be driving the van to the Alps 4 weeks from today.

Handing it to a dealer seems inevitable.

Edit: dealers seem to have 3 week waiting times
 
Last edited:
My electric door stopped working completely, and my patience wit repeated problems and expensive repairs have run out
This worke for me.
Take off inside panel. Unscrew the two screws holding the latch you will then see that the electric motor are loose. Put on som shims and new nut on the screws, before tighten them turn the cosing latch 180 degrees and tighten them.
The electric motor can be removed or let it stay with som rags around it so it does not rattle.
Clip the wire stat move the door for easier opening closing
 
Back
Top