Engine Battery charger install.

[sidepod]

Ok, some did some didn’t leave the factory with engine battery charging.
If you use the van regularly all year round then it’s probably not an issue.
If, like my bus, it spends the bulk of the winter hibernating then it could be an issue.

My last van had it so for me, it’s a thing. My current van doesn’t. Here’s how.

Strap in .

Here’s what you need.

Charger.
2 pole switch rated for 240v
Inline fuses (1A) x 2
Voltmeter (optional)
Switch for voltmeter. (optional)

Note - the double pole switch and fuses in both L and N are to keep the European reverse polarity doom-mongers happy.



Here’s the schematic. For the 240v input to the charger I T’eed into the mains socket outlet. It’s simple to open up and there are screw terminals there to connect to. From here it’s to the charger via two 1A fuses and a double pole switch.



So start by removing the B pillar panel behind the drivers seat (passenger seat if T5 rhd)






Watch for the clip down at the bottom near the footwell.


Various connectors behind the panel to remove.
240v skt
12v skt
Mini fuse board. Don’t worry here they can only go back one way.






So next, decide where you want to mount the double pole switch and voltmeter.
I opted to put in a voltmeter so I could see the engine battery is charging. There are LEDs on the CTEK unit but it’ll be hidden out of sight.
I added a switch to the voltmeter feed so it can be turned off to avoid draining the engine battery when it’s not on charge. You see, always thinking

Ok, now to the compartment below the fridge. This is based on a 4 but the principle and architecture are pretty much identical for a 5..

To remove the fridge panel you’ll need t access these 3 screws in the left hand cupboard.



Once inside, draw the cabling for the charger/voltmeter through behind the cupboard unit.
I used a steel draw wire. Fast and simple.




So, this is where the CTEK unit mounts, right next to the split charge relay. This basically isolates the leisure batteries and engine battery when you cut the engine. The good news is that this provides a direct link to the engine battery.

......out of space.....see next post.

 

[sidepod]

.....ok, the two red cable in parallel to the right of the split charge relay go to the engine battery (two cables used to get around any volt drop issues).
The red cable on the left feeds the leisure batteries.




Here’s the CTEK and voltmeter connections added.



The earths I ran through to the leisure battery compartment next door. Any vehicle Earth will do.

 

[sidepod]

A nice convenient thermal to bolt to.



So, next the B pillar additions, the Tee in to the 240v socket and fuses feeding the double pole switch. Also the voltmeter and switch.

 

[sidepod]

Next, connect it all up



Plug in the hook-up......



Check the engine battery voltage for calibration purposes. The voltmeter is a 2p evilBay unit.




So it all works. Tidy everything up. Lash it all in place with cable ties to make it look neat. Done.

There is a 1v discrepancy between the cheap voltmeter and reality. As long as we know this it ok.
Here we are on hook up, engine battery charging nicely.

The Ctek unit is fine to run with the engine and Good for reverse polarity.




Now to install one of these....

 

[bxl_lad]

dam you... now i have to consider another project!

Seriously though, very nice and actually something I'd been wondering how to achieve... (admittedly I hadn't gotten very far in my thinking!)

Firstly, you said some vans had it? How to know? Something we can easily check?

Would you be so kind as to post some ebay links for the correct components

Nice work!

 

[Loz]

Q: was your intention to charge the starter battery or the leisure battery as in your photos you are connected to the leisure side of the split charge relay?

 

[sidepod]

Q: was your intention to charge the starter battery or the leisure battery as in your photos you are connected to the leisure side of the split charge relay?

The intention was to charge the starter battery.
I have connected to the starter side of the split charge relay.

 

[sidepod]

dam you... now i have to consider another project!

Seriously though, very nice and actually something I'd been wondering how to achieve... (admittedly I hadn't gotten very far in my thinking!)

Firstly, you said some vans had it? How to know? Something we can easily check?

Would you be so kind as to post some ebay links for the correct components

Nice work!

There are two ways to check if you have engine battery charging.

1. Accessvthe compartment below the fridge and check you charger unit. If there are to outputs then you have it.
The second output is just a small two pin white plug.

2. Plug the van into your hook up and stick a voltmeter across the starter battery (engine off obvs). If you see north of 12.5 v then you have it.

I’ll oist Ebay links later tonight.

 

[Loz]

Interesting as the later cali (with the same relay) are wired the other way round, the diagram shows a single feed from the main fusebox and 2 wires feeding the leisure fuse box yours looked the same but you have the charger on the 2 wire side?

 

[sidepod]

That could be the leisure battery layout being different on the 5?

You can see from the photos I have it correct as the engine battery is charging at 14v (engine off).

It’s a simple enough thing to get right.
The principal is there. Interesting spot though.

 

[sidepod]

Bxl,

There is a much simpler way.

You already have a 240v supply below the fridge at the input to the leisure battery charger.

You could just splice into this, add a couple of fuses and feed the CTek from there. Done.

I just preferred the idea of being able to switch it independently and see it’s output via a voltmeter.

 

[bxl_lad]

But like the idea of the switch and meter...

Side(pod) question, would you mind taking and sending a picture of your tyre pressure chart that is partially visible inside your drivers door in one of the pics - would be interesting to see the correct pressures for the BBS wheels

Cheers!

 

[sidepod]

Roger that.

 

[Skewif]

Or could have fitted one of these maybe?
https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en...to-DC-battery-to-battery-trickle-charger.html

 

[sidepod]

.....hmmmmm? Would that not reduce the charge feeding the leisure batteries?

 

[Skewif]

.....hmmmmm? Would that not reduce the charge feeding the leisure batteries?

Only 2A max. This would only happen if leasure batt way more charged then starter. It’s the most simple and effective way of having duel charging from one source I’ve found. Was just saying....

 

[sidepod]

Interesting. It would still need plumbing into the split charge relay.

Engine batteries can be up to 90Ah.

I guess it would rely on the leisure battery charger being functional. If it died you’d never know until the engine failed to start. Not a fan of failure.

 

[Trebor]

2015 van charger charges house and overflows into engine battery if needed . I have a C tek charger in van with ctek connectors wired directly to engine battery for emergencies . Never needed to use it . Obviously you’d needed to have mains hook up to use it .

 

[Skewif]

Interesting. It would still need plumbing into the split charge relay.

Engine batteries can be up to 90Ah.

I guess it would rely on the leisure battery charger being functional. If it died you’d never know until the engine failed to start. Not a fan of failure.

Sorry I wouldn’t know as don’t use the hook up charger only solar. But if the leisure battery charger failed surely you’d notice that as lights would go out and fridge stop? As little drain on starter batt 2A while on hook up should keep it well topped up??

 

[sidepod]

Here’s the list of kit

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-CTEK-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rocker-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5-x-In-l...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blade-Fu...var=500917977683&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

All cable, crimps etc from here

https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/

 

[Padraic]

Nice job, so its a completely independent engine charger. Would a dual sensing Voltage sensing relay have do a similar job,( both batteries being charged on hookup) or is there a shortfall to that setup?

 

[sidepod]

I didn’t consider that. Interesting. I think we’ve been here before with those.
Similar price to the ctek unit.

More research required.

 

[bxl_lad]

Just to know, because I'm curious, but how is it that the leisure battery is charged from the alternator and on hook-up, but the starter battery is charged only from the alternator and NOT the hook-up - where is the disconnect (or am I barking completely up the wrong tree?)

 

[sidepod]

That’s the function of the split charge relay.
It disconnects the two batteries when the engine stops so you don’t drain the starter battery with your leisure activity.

It also protects your leisure batteries in the event your alternator fails.
If the alternator fails then the engine battery and leisure battery would simply supply the vehicle load, lights, ignition (if petrol) etc until they ran flat.
This is why the split charge relay is controlled from the alternator output as opposed to simply the ignition switch.

 

[WelshGas]

Just to know, because I'm curious, but how is it that the leisure battery is charged from the alternator and on hook-up, but the starter battery is charged only from the alternator and NOT the hook-up - where is the disconnect (or am I barking completely up the wrong tree?)

@sidepod ’s describes how the Leisure and Engine Batteries are connected and disconnected and charged by the Alternator.
Charging both the Leisure and Engine Batteries On EHU is a function of the Mains Charger. There are 2 types of Charger fitted depending on your vehicle Model Year. 1 has only one output to the Leisure Batteries and the 2nd Type has 2 outputs, one to the Leisure and one to the Engine Battery.