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Euro to UK 240v/12v socket replacements.

B6POB

B6POB

Messages
53
Location
GB
Vehicle
T4 PopTop
Heres a little swap for anyone who may be interested. I decided I didn't want adapters in my euro sockets as I spend my time in GB and if I go abroad I will run an adapter for the trip.
CBE 240v 3 pin socket is a straight swap, just pop the surround off, remove the screws and wires then reverse the process.
The 12v socket is a genuine vw unit that uses the same T connector plug, I found this in the boot space of a golf in a breakers. Fitting is slightly more involved, I removed the panel and had to open up the hole in the panel and rear metal strengthening plate, I used the connector front cover as a template and simply enlarged the hole with a file. Reassemble and that's the job complete
All in a simple mod anyone can do in an hour.
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I notice that the original 12v socket is shorter than the one replaced, do you know the part no. of the original please?
A neat modification
 
Your right the replacement unit is deeper but there is no issue with space behind the panel. I have the original in front of me but there are no numbers on it at all, I suspect it is just a generic euro 12v socket not a VW unit.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
Nice job, where did you source the 240V UK socket?
 
Just the seven years and two vans I’ve been thinking about that job.

Good man.
 
Superb, this will be my first mod when the van arrives!!
 
Is there a double available? Both options covered. :bananadance2
 
Thank all, simple mod that anyone can do in a hour or so. I bought the socket off Caravanstuff4u.co.uk but you can get them all over £6ish. Your own surround frame fits so no need to buy another. You can get 2 and even 3 socket versions if you wanted you would just have to add some wiring.
The 12v socket was from the breakers but If you wanted one without going to the breakers, Brickwerkes sell them £16. I used this one as it OE and has the correct pin configuration on the rear, some others don't.

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Yes that's right

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
 
Hi , just noticed this old thread so not sure if your still on here. My euro plug Needed replaced as one of the whole was damaged/melted. I swapped it out for a CBE 3 pin. the 3 wires were blue (N) Live (B) and earth. I’ve wired the CBE one up so all the wires got to where they state on the new socket however when plugging it into hook up it shows reverse polarity. I’ve had a quick look and this seems to happen quite a bit but im not sure if maybe its me ???? Did yours show up as reverse polarity when rested on hook up ?
 
Oh no!!! Not another polarity punch looming!!
 
Hi , just noticed this old thread so not sure if your still on here. My euro plug Needed replaced as one of the whole was damaged/melted. I swapped it out for a CBE 3 pin. the 3 wires were blue (N) Live (B) and earth. I’ve wired the CBE one up so all the wires got to where they state on the new socket however when plugging it into hook up it shows reverse polarity. I’ve had a quick look and this seems to happen quite a bit but im not sure if maybe its me ???? Did yours show up as reverse polarity when rested on hook up ?
1. Are you sure the EHU lead is correctly wired.?

2. What are the actual wire colours?
 
The hook up cable is standard U.K. one

Earth yellow/green
Neutral blue
Live brown
That’s how they were fitted to the original euro socket
 
Yes it was the same but with it being melted slightly I thought I better change it and check again
 
Yes it was the same but with it being melted slightly I thought I better change it and check again
In that case, although Reversed Polarity doesn't really matter with modern electrical equipment, if you want to investigate further:
1. Check the socket you plug your EHU lead into.
2. If you are using a UK Plug adapter on the EHU lead - check that
3. EHU Lead, either check the wiring in plug and socket.
4. Finally, the wiring on the vehicle EHU socket and the Circuit breaker.

I wouldn't be surprised if 1 wasn't the culprit.
 
Have you done a continuity check between each pin of the new socket to the pins of the hook up inlet socket on the van.

That can be the only way it’s reversed given you’re plugging in to a uk supply. (Assuming your hook up cable is wired correctly)

Academy really given the breaker in the van is double pole so it disconnects both L and N under fault conditions.
 
In that case, although Reversed Polarity doesn't really matter with modern electrical equipment, if you want to investigate further:
1. Check the socket you plug your EHU lead into.
2. If you are using a UK Plug adapter on the EHU lead - check that
3. EHU Lead, either check the wiring in plug and socket.
4. Finally, the wiring on the vehicle EHU socket and the Circuit breaker.

I wouldn't be surprised if 1 wasn't the culprit.
Thank you ,
 
Have you done a continuity check between each pin of the new socket to the pins of the hook up inlet socket on the van.

That can be the only way it’s reversed given you’re plugging in to a uk supply. (Assuming your hook up cable is wired correctly)

Academy really given the breaker in the van is double pole so it disconnects both L and N under fault conditions.
I’ve no idea what any of that means as I’m not that clued up on electrics but will investigate further when I’m back from our trip , in the meantime I’ll just make sure nothings left to long plugged in in the van . We also have a separate hook up for the tent/stuff dump so I imagine that’ll get most use

Thanks again
 
Ok so the continuity check simply confirms that the Blue core at the new socket , N is actually wired to the N pin of the van hook up socket. The same goes for the L core.

Get a voltmeter and set it to continuity.

Take a length of wire, long enough to reach from the new socket all the way around to the hook up socket on the back of the van.

By whatever means works, connect the length of wire to the N pin of the hook up socket. Connect the other end to one lead of the voltmeter.

Connect the second lead of the voltmeter to the Blue core of the new socket.

If all is as it should be, the voltmeter will buzz or display a connected circuit thus proving the internal van wiring between new socket and hook up plug is correct.

Repeat for the L (brown).

If you don’t prove continuity of each core then your polarity reversal is between the new socket and the hook up.

If you live anywhere near North Oxfordshire, I’ll happily help.
 
Ok so the continuity check simply confirms that the Blue core at the new socket , N is actually wired to the N pin of the van hook up socket. The same goes for the L core.

Get a voltmeter and set it to continuity.

Take a length of wire, long enough to reach from the new socket all the way around to the hook up socket on the back of the van.

By whatever means works, connect the length of wire to the N pin of the hook up socket. Connect the other end to one lead of the voltmeter.

Connect the second lead of the voltmeter to the Blue core of the new socket.

If all is as it should be, the voltmeter will buzz or display a connected circuit thus proving the internal van wiring between new socket and hook up plug is correct.

Repeat for the L (brown).

If you don’t prove continuity of each core then your polarity reversal is between the new socket and the hook up.

If you live anywhere near North Oxfordshire, I’ll happily help.
Thank you , that does make sense now . I’m based near Newcastle
 

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