Felix in Europe Summer 2019

[Swiss Cheese]

Hey Simon, glad you made it down there. This area was our absolute favourite a couple of weeks ago on our first long trip out in the van. We stayed 4 nights at Camping St Jean in Moustiers. It's not at the lake but just a short walk from the town of Moustiers. Site was really clean, quiet, and does great pizza. There is also an Aire around there too.

 

[SimonMc]

Day 22 - Lac de Saint Croix in the heat

The forecast for today was hot hot hot so I got up early and drove out of the campsite to the free parking down closer to the lake. Grabbed a quick brekkie from the epicerie opposite then took out the SUP. The electric pump makes life a lot easier but it’s noisy. Thankfully I was only one of two cars there at 8.15! Had a slow paddle for about an hour and a half, still not very confident and within the first hour everyone had descended on the lake. It was great seeing so many people out on canoes, kayaks, pedalos and solar (I think) boats. I avoided going up to the Verdon Gorge itself as a) v busy and b) assumed my paddle power would not get me very far. Wish I’d brought my hat, and had a couple of swims too, some unplanned. I next need to practice getting on and off the SUP I’m deep water. Was back in the campervan by 11.00 and had a drink and a snooze. By now the car park was full! Opened some windows and closed some blinds then played the ukulele Apologies to everyone.

Headed back to the campsite and did the second laundry of the trip (Angela did the first one) and it all dried in about 20 minutes. Good job as it was spoiling the view of the canyon.

The 34°C heat was way too much for me and I lay on the mat in the shade admiring the view. There was a cold shower nearby which I kept popping back to in my trunks. Evening came and it stayed well in the 30’s. Delicious starter of champignons à l’ail et bière blanche soaked up by the obligatory baguette (mushrooms from the market yesterday)

and some very intestinal sausages after. Hmmm. Beautiful sunset though and the colours on the Gorge were lovely.

Oh and I don’t remember if I posted a pic of the Gorge from the drone, so...

Tomorrow, I need to escape the heat. Englishman abroad!
Simon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 23 - Westwards via the Med to Tarn

I checked the weather map and saw that the central region of France was set to be cooler so I came up with a plan to visit Millau which is not too far south of there. Used a mix of autoroutes and local roads but avoided tolls and the seat jumping it needs (front seat well is messy, can’t be bothered to tidy it). Went west past Aix and the northern part of the Camargue and had a few glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea but didn’t stop for a toe dip. Had the most beautiful drive up the autoroute north into Millau, then nabbed a lovely spot at the Camping Les Erables across the river from the town. It’s my kind of campsite. Lovely lady running it, small café and pool, shade and grass, goes down to the River Tarn, and WiFi. My data is very low now so the WiFi is a real boon. No pictures from the drive up, just my bbq dinner.

I’ve planned ahead a little and booked a campsite on the western edge of Paris for Saturday and Sunday nights when Angela arrives. Looking forward to this!
I’m probably driven too much again...I’ll never learn.
Simon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SailSki]

Hi Simon, thanks for the running commentary - great descriptions and good to see you enjoyed around Annecy/Geneva etc where I am based much of the time.
For western side of Paris you may want to take a look at St. Germain en Laye - great view over to Paris from the grounds of the Chateau in St. Germain (especially at the end of the afternoon as the sun highlights the towers of La Defense). Nice walks / biking in the woods around the town too. Le Vesinet where I lived for a couple of years is also a lovely town - lots of little lakes and leafy avenues on the north side of the town and a quick train into Paris on the RER.
Enjoy the rest of your trip!

 

[SimonMc]

Hi Simon, thanks for the running commentary - great descriptions and good to see you enjoyed around Annecy/Geneva etc where I am based much of the time.
For western side of Paris you may want to take a look at St. Germain en Laye - great view over to Paris from the grounds of the Chateau in St. Germain (especially at the end of the afternoon as the sun highlights the towers of La Defense). Nice walks / biking in the woods around the town too. Le Vesinet where I lived for a couple of years is also a lovely town - lots of little lakes and leafy avenues on the north side of the town and a quick train into Paris on the RER.
Enjoy the rest of your trip!

Thanks SailSki

Simon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 24 - Les Gorges du Tarn and Millau

Planned a loop taking in the Tarn Gorges north of Millau then round and back clockwise. Beautiful scenery all along the way. Took nearly all of the pictures on proper camera and haven’t downloaded them yet.

There were some beautiful climbs and descents out of and into the valleys and lots of hairpin bends which Felix took in his stride - it’s great having the automatic gearbox and the view from the high seat is always rewarding. Stroll through some absolutely beautiful little villages some of which seem to not have changed in hundreds of years. Came back to the campsite had a chill and a swim in the pool which was very relaxing and it was lovely that the temperatures did not climb too high today.

I wandered into Millau for dinner and was over the moon to see that there was some kind of festival on in the main square which included dozens of food places and music and entertainment. Great buzz and thousands out. I are well. Some kind of green herb pancake spongy thing called a Farçous I think, a stuffed half cabbage, some truffade (first time for me, sliced potatoes and lard and melted cheese) and some confit de canard which I can’t resist. I just kept doing laps of the square either getting a drink or a nibble each time.

There was a local brewer selling a delicious stout which is fortified with cognac and comes in at 9%. Reminds me of a stag do in Ireland where we made our own called Brandy Shandy!

The night was rounded off by a great band called Čao Laru who are playing in England later this year.

Simon


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 25 - Heading to Central France

I had a leisurely morning at the campsite then set off up the autoroute towards Clermont-Ferrand. Stopped for lunch on the way in a ville étape village whose name I can’t remember, then reached the train station to the Puy-de-Dôme volcano mid afternoon. I could and should have walked up but I decided to take the train since it was such a fun way to go up the mountains in Switzerland.

Not surprisingly the place was rammed with tourists. But it was easy to see why as I walk around the top of the crater. It’s a great place for photographing the other volcanoes in the chain

but what happened is I ended up photographing and videoing the paragliders for about two hours in the afternoon. I’ve never had the courage to try it but it looks so safe and so much fun.

There was one guy who was obviously the main man who was flying over and around people.

I only left because I was feeling so cold and needed to warm up somewhere. Then I took a short 10 minute drive to find a campsite and the one I chose has a lovely view of a couple of volcanoes in the distance.

Leftovers for tea and possibly the worst bottle of red wine I’ve ever bought!

Much more civilised temperatures here though

Simon


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 26 - Bourges

The Rough Guide to France has a glowing recommendation for Bourges cathedral in the south east Loire so that’s where I headed. Checked in first to the Camping Robinson near the city and wandered in after lunch to see the sights. City was very sleepy as so many French towns can be at this time of year as the locals have fled to the coast. First I visited the grand home built by M Jacques-Coeur, a wealthy minister from the 15th century.

For some reason I took a wrong turn at the start and did the whole tour in reverse order. Didn’t bother me, but the staff were very transfixed by this. Now that’s a fireplace!

The cathedral St Étienne in the centre of town was stunning, particularly the interior. Is has layer on layer of windows with some of the finest stained glass I’ve ever seen. Pictures can’t do it justice. But I’ll try...

Had a few beers then a pizza in town. A 50cl Blanche beer ranged from €4.50 to €8.00 within a couple of streets. On the way home I caught one of those “projects lights onto old building” shows.

Simon



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Jontymo]

Fantastic write up Simon, we get our new Ocean 1st September and stories like this make the wait seem even longer!!!
Keep at it.

Jon

 

[SimonMc]

Day 27 - North to Orléans

The title says it all. I drove to a campsite called Camping d’Oliviers, parked up and relaxed. No plans today, will visit the city tomorrow.

Simon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 28 - Orléans

Again, I wish I had brought the bikes. So I hired one instead for €10 and pootled into the city. It was all on cycle paths and only about 30 minutes each way, and level. Orléans was very quiet and all the more beautiful for it. The cathedral is something else! Some of the stonework higher up looks too delicate and fragile but has stood the test of time.

I had a wander across to Joan of Arc square and the goddamn yanks descended on us. I assume it was marking their arrival back in WW2.

I made a detour to the indoor food market and was tempted to buy food for a picnic but was drawn instead to checking out the restaurants nearby. Ended up back by the cathedral for a long and leisurely oeuf mayonnaise followed by some average moules frites. Great view though!

After lunch I visited the cathedral interior and it was nearly on a par with Bourges cathedral from a couple of days ago.

The ride back to the campsite was hot but not too long then I showered and had a siesta.
Tomorrow, at long last, I’m picking Angela up from Charles de Gaulle airport then heading to a campsite on the west side of Paris for a couple of nights. I’ve been counting down the days!
Simon


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kave]

Nice. It will be interesting to see your experience camping outside Paris since I have thought about it myself. Horrible traffic arround the airport and Paris.

 

[SimonMc]

Day 29 - North to Paris

I had a morning to kill before meeting Angela later so I did the usual ‘look at the map and pick a couple of places’ approach which I love. I picked Pithiviers for the first stop, if only because I heard the name in Bake Off so there must be some treat I can get there. The weather was grim and grey. Thankfully there was a small damp market on, but little else doing. It was nice to see that they are celebrating the anniversary of their liberation by the British and USA troops next week.

I popped into a very busy boulangerie/pâtisserie and bought a Chausson aux Pommes, a fougasse aux lardons and a Pithiviers. Basicallly an apple turnover, a goats cheese and bacon toastie and a bake well tart. However, this being French bakers, they were each better that you would get in England. Sorry. I’ll look up the Pithiviers recipe when I’m home.

Next I headed to Fontainebleau but the heavens opened and most shops were shut. I ate my lunch à la Felix then pointed the van towards Paris.

Navigating through Charles de Gaulle airport was hairy, and I saw a couple of crashes. Sod’s law, the short stay parking I was aiming for at Terminal 2EF Parking but it had a 1.9m height barrier so I dropped into the drop-off which maxes out after an hour. Went down to arrivals and 10 mins later there she was. My long lost wife. X

We drove across to the Camping de Paris between the Bois de Boulogne and the River Seine. I’d prebooked 2 nights and it was pricey, over €55/night including a hefty ‘internet booking fee’ of €23!

Campsite is really well located and runs a shuttle buss every 30 minutes to the local metro stop for €2 a pop. Our pitch however was on a slope which meant ramps. Anyway, we’re in Paris so won’t be in van much.

We headed down to Hôtel de Ville then walked across via Notre Dame to the 5th arrondisement. I snapped a pic yesterday of the Airbnb we stayed at 5 years ago. I can highly recommend it...it has a private garden (the nearest one there is to Notre Dame). If anyone wants details just let me know.

. Here’s a pic from 5 years back...

A few (very very very pricey) beers later

we picked a Vietnamese restaurant near Boulevard St Germain

then metroed/bussed back. Constant drizzling rain throughout.

Simon, and now Angela.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[2haw]

Day 29 - North to Paris

I had a morning to kill before meeting Angela later so I did the usual ‘look at the map and pick a couple of places’ approach which I love. I picked Pithiviers for the first stop, if only because I heard the name in Bake Off so there must be some treat I can get there. The weather was grim and grey. Thankfully there was a small damp market on, but little else doing. It was nice to see that they are celebrating the anniversary of their liberation by the British and USA troops next week.

I popped into a very busy boulangerie/pâtisserie and bought a Chausson aux Pommes, a fougasse aux lardons and a Pithiviers. Basicallly an apple turnover, a goats cheese and bacon toastie and a bake well tart. However, this being French bakers, they were each better that you would get in England. Sorry. I’ll look up the Pithiviers recipe when I’m home.

Next I headed to Fontainebleau but the heavens opened and most shops were shut. I ate my lunch à la Felix then pointed the van towards Paris.

Navigating through Charles de Gaulle airport was hairy, and I saw a couple of crashes. Sod’s law, the short stay parking I was aiming for at Terminal 2EF Parking but it had a 1.9m height barrier so I dropped into the drop-off which maxes out after an hour. Went down to arrivals and 10 mins later there she was. My long lost wife. X

We drove across to the Camping de Paris between the Bois de Boulogne and the River Seine. I’d prebooked 2 nights and it was pricey, over €55/night including a hefty ‘internet booking fee’ of €23!

Campsite is really well located and runs a shuttle buss every 30 minutes to the local metro stop for €2 a pop. Our pitch however was on a slope which meant ramps. Anyway, we’re in Paris so won’t be in van much.

We headed down to Hôtel de Ville then walked across via Notre Dame to the 5th arrondisement. I snapped a pic yesterday of the Airbnb we stayed at 5 years ago. I can highly recommend it...it has a private garden (the nearest one there is to Notre Dame). If anyone wants details just let me know.

. Here’s a pic from 5 years back...

A few (very very very pricey) beers later

we picked a Vietnamese restaurant near Boulevard St Germain

then metroed/bussed back. Constant drizzling rain throughout.

Simon, and now Angela.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We're heading to France this week (not sure where yet) and I am enjoying reading your updates.

 

[SimonMc]

Day 30 - Paris

We woke up to heavy rain. Really? So put the legs on my shorts for the first time and packed a brolly. Bussed into Maillot Jayne from the campsite then wandered down past the Arc de Triomphe and along to Marais.

We visited Marais on the final day of our previous trip and wanted to explore more. Like all of the other tourists there we had falafel for lunch from L’As de falafel. I feel so sorry for their competition over the road.

We spent the afternoon just strolling and stopping for refreshments

, ended up back at the river so we walked along then through the Tuileries gardens (sp) then round Place de la Concorde. Crossed to the south side of the river and hey presto we ended up in another Relais de l’Entrecôte for dinner. Yum bloody yum.

Simon and Angela



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 31 - The Somme

Our jaunt in Paris was deliberately short as we planned to head straight to the Somme region today to start a few days learning about World War One in France and Belgium. We grabbed breakfast en route, sticking to the local roads just to see more of French life. (Again there is none cos they are all on holiday).
The first cemetery we came across was a German on in a village called Morisel. There were over 2000 soldiers there, mostly killed during April 2018.

Our first planned stop was at the Australian National Memorial an it was stunning and respectful. If you ever plan to visit take headphones and download their app (we didn’t) as there looks to be some very well made interactive info in the rooms at the back. We did hear a few Aussie voices when we visited. The location is high on a ridge, and you can see the vastness of the plains around.

There were a few Menzies in there, so I may do some research on them.

Our next stop was the Australian Corps Memorial, a simple affair which leads to some German trenches, which catalogues the battle for the villages around and for the ridge itself. It’s notable also for the location where the Red Baron was eventually downed.

Our route next took us to the Lochnagar crater, produced when Allies undermines the German positions and filled them with explosives which were detonated at the outset of the Battle of the Somme. It was huge, but beautifully presented with plaques and memories of those who survived and for those who didn’t.

It’ll be hard for you to read all the text on my photos but if you don’t plan on a visit here, then read as much as you can.
We rocked up at a campsite very close to the Somme river/canal called Chateau de l’oseraie. Lovely place, pool, WiFi, bar and €20/night for the two of us. A world away from 100 years ago. I got the bbq and and cooked a couple of onglet steaks I’d bought earlier in the day. Delicious, and €7 for the pair. I’ll be hunting these out when I’m home but I do know that Charlotte does them at Charlotte’s Butchery in Gosforth, Newcastle, if anyone’s passing

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 32 and 33 - Somme and Ypres

After a relaxing morning at the campsite and a swim in their lovely warm pool, we hit the road to Mons and visited the Saint-Symphorien Cemetery . It’s a beautiful place where both the first and last British casualties are buried, one opposite the other the picture here is a group of soldiers who all died on the same day in August, except for the last one which is a nineteen year old lad who died in the November. What
must have been going through his
mind during those three months?

Then we went up to Cambrai, and saw tank Deborah, one of only seven Mark IV tanks to survive out of 1200.
Somebody set the alarm off because he/she couldn’t resist touching it! (He)

We then drove up the Thiepval memorial- huge memorial to the missing of the Somme

Onwards to Ypres where we stayed at Camping Jeugdstadion- a small basic campsite only 10 minutes walk from the Menin gate. Mooched into town, sampled a couple of beers and found a lovely restaurant where we tried some Flemish dishes.

The next day we were up and out before breakfast. First stop was Essex Farm Cemetry which was an advanced dressing station and where John McCrae( author of In Flanders fields) worked and died. Some of the wards are still there, which were built from concrete, as were the sandbags, which we hadn’t realised till now.

On to Yorkshire trench- which is an intact trench that was only discovered in the 1990s

Visited the Harry Patch memorial, then onto the Langemark German Cemetery where there’s a huge mass gave of 44,000 unknown soldiers- mind blowing.

Onwards to the Tyne Cot Cemetery which is a beautiful place but shocking to see the extent of human loss.

After a quick snack a la Felix ( local bread that was just like a stottie!), we drove onto Hill 60 which was a much fought over strategic spot.

Then onto Poperinge to visit Talbot House, a hostel where soldiers stayed and their way to and from the Front.

Finally we went to Lijssenthoek Cemetery which was at the site of a Military Hospital, and the 2nd largest after Tynecot. Lots of airmen are buried there as airfield wasn’t far away. The visitor centre had lots of stories about them.
Back to campsite to have tea at Felix, before going to The Menin gate for the ceremony at 8pm.

Sampled a few more beers including a 12% stout!

Angela and Simon.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 34 - The last of WW1 then Bruges

On the recommendation of a chap doing a questionnaire on us at the Langemark cemetery, we visited the Dodegang Trenches just north of Diksmuide (sp). These were Belgian and have been a museum of sorts since 1919 and they sit across a canal from the German trenches. When we arrived a sign said “typical visit 90 minutes “ and although at first that seems a stretch, the sign was right. There an indoor exhibit of artefacts from both sides, with loads of interactive screens showing photos and videos from the time. Then outside upstairs you have a panorama of the whole network, which was vast and was pretty much static throughout the war years. We then went to the trenches proper which were in great condition generally considering how many tourist fingers and feet will have been through in the last 100 years. I don’t know if there are any better preserved and complete trenches! These trenches were roomier and better engineered that others we’d seen but I won’t be volunteering to live down there.

This marked the end of our First World War tour and although we only scratched the surface it was very humbling. Many many thanks to @GrannyJen and others on the forum for their advice and suggestions.

So, next stop Bruges (Brugge). We turned up at the Camping Memling, set up, caught a bus into town then became bod standard tourists again. But what a great place!

The architecture is stunning throughout every street and alleyway. Each house is deferent to next door. Great buzz about the place and clearly lots of real locals love in the city too. Food ok, beer too strong, but so what.

After dinner we squeezed in Belgian waffles with strawberries, chocolate and Chantilly Cream oh then more beer so we called it a night and walked back to the campsite (about 35 minutes only!). Would love to return, and soon.

Simon and Angela


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Day 35 - Ghent

Packed up early and had breakfast. Blasted across to Ghent, stopping on the way for some groceries. Interesting that half way between Bruges and Ghent the locals don’t seem interested in speaking English. The Ghent campsite (Blaarmeersen) was check in from 2pm but we chanced it and arrived before 12. They were kind enough to give us a spot. Huge campsite, but lovely with it. Bonus was that there’s a free shuttle bus from near the campsite straight into the city. So off we went.
It’s a much larger place than Bruges and we did the usual wander,beer,wander that works so well. Here are a few snaps. It was a very hot afternoon so lots of stopping needed. I imagine it’s a great place to be when the 70,000 students arrive next month!

Bar recommendation - the Het Waterhuis aan de Bierkant, Groentenmarkt. Lovely spot by the river, vast list of beers, and a lovely retired gent called Richard who we had a long chat with.

Later in the day we caught a boat tour then ribs for dinner. Loss of locals were congregated by the river. Great city!

Caught the 10pm bus back and somehow between the busy stop and the campsite he/she tripped on a tree root in the dark fell and because his/her wife/husband was holding his/her hand, he/she ended up breaking his/her fourth metacarpal. Sorry Angela, I was trying to save you! And thanks you Felix for providing us with a VW First Aid Kit.

A drop of wine and some painkillers helped.

Simon and a one-handed Angela


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TripleBee]

Have been to almost all the places you have been to on this trip. Makes me want to go there all over again, and I have yet to see so much more places.

Oh, you were in Bruges and didn't even came over to say hello to me? It only took you a small detour to the beach.

Anyways, wonderful holidays you guys have, and good luck with the healing.

 

[SimonMc]

Day 36 - The trip is nearing the end.

Today’s entry will be the penultimate day by day blog, but I plan to do a follow-up at some point too.

Today went quickly. Packed up Felix in Ghent then took the motorways through to Ijmuiden. We left in plenty of time to allow a leisurely lunch. Temperatures on the way hit 29°C so it was great in the van at a cool 18°!
We parked in Ijmuiden town and bought some food for dinner (we didn’t plan to eat at the restaurants on the ferry on the way home), then we went to a fantastic little place that Angela managed to find one-handed on TripAdvisor. It’s about a quarter mile from the ferry terminal and is called Gerard Van Es Fiskrestaurant (fish restaurant). It had indoor and outside seating plus a wet (fresh, very fresh!) fish shop next door. We ate outside and the menu is wonderful. I chose Fish & Chips to see what the Dutch take on it is, and Angela has the whole plaice fried in butter. Both were 10/10 and a lovely end to our time on the mainland.

We boarded the ferry early, showered, joined the revellers up in the sky Bar, then back to the room for a siesta.

Later we watched the sun set beautifully and dined in style in our Commodore Room.

Thanks Felix

Simon & Angela

Tomorrow will include a great breakfast.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[SimonMc]

Nice. It will be interesting to see your experience camping outside Paris since I have thought about it myself. Horrible traffic arround the airport and Paris.

Hi Kave, just noticed your post. The driving was fine really. I made a point of avoiding the city centre, but just let the satnav tell me what to do.
Simon

 

[SimonMc]

Day 37 - Home

Great breakfast (included in the Commodore room price) followed by looking at the sun over the sea, then the obligatory photos up the coast from Tynemouth.

Took ages queuing for passport check once we were off the boat, then dropped Angela off at the hospital before I returned home to see Katherine for the first time in three weeks!
Angela was ready after a couple of hours. They strapped it up and she has to go to have it ‘manipulated’ at 9 am tomorrow

Better to have done this at the end of the holidays rather than the start I suppose.

The weather here in the Northeast is glorious, so Angela, Katherine and I are going to rustle up a BBQ on Druridge Bay later today. A fitting end to a holiday when it’s all about the outdoors.

Simon & Angela


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TripleBee]

Wonderful!!

 

[SimonMc]

...oh and here’s the homecoming dinner on Druridge Bay


Simon and Angela