Flat vehicle battery T5 Cali advice

[roadrunner 45]

Hello All ,

I have tried starting my Cali 2011 today and it would appear a low charge on the battery, it will try to turn over but very slowly and will not start , i am not sure what to do and could do with some help on the below questions -

If i connect the Cali to hook up will it charge the vehicle battery and how long until sufficient charge to get started and then i could take it for a drive?

If i need a new battery what is the correct type required for a Cali and best make and how easy is it to changeover?

If i try to jump start what do i need to be careful of , as i do not want to damage the electrics , control panel etc?

Can i check health of battery with a multimeter and what should i be looking for?

Thanks for your help, sorry these are basic questions.

 

[WelshGas]

Hello All ,

I have tried starting my Cali 2011 today and it would appear a low charge on the battery, it will try to turn over but very slowly and will not start , i am not sure what to do and could do with some help on the below questions -

If i connect the Cali to hook up will it charge the vehicle battery and how long until sufficient charge to get started and then i could take it for a drive?

If i need a new battery what is the correct type required for a Cali and best make and how easy is it to changeover?

If i try to jump start what do i need to be careful of , as i do not want to damage the electrics , control panel etc?

Can i check health of battery with a multimeter and what should i be looking for?

Thanks for your help, sorry these are basic questions.

1. Connecting to Hookup will not charge the engine battery.
2. The replacement battery is normally a Varta F21. Other makes can be used but the physical dimensions should be the same as well as the power output which must be the same or greater.
3. If jump starting the correct procedure is in the Handbook, but normally, +tve, red lead, to +tve pole of battery and -tve, black lead, to chassis or engine.
4. Using a stand-alone battery charger same as 3 above.
5. A multimeter should show in excess of 12.2v . But, although the voltage may seem OK if the battery is original it may not be able to supply the high current needed to heat the glow plugs and turn the engine over at the same time.

 

[B J G]

Multimeter can give a guide, check voltage off load then see what it drops to when starter engaged.
A Battery Tester is required to see how much life is left but a 24 hour charge followed by a test is the only way to find out if your battery is in need of replacing.

If the battery is over 3 years old it can be safer to replace rather than get caught out again.

 

[Vagophile]

If the battery is over 3 years old it can be safer to replace rather than get caught out again.

The date of manufacture should be stamped on the negative terminal post.

 

[Ozzy Pete]

Multimeter can give a guide, check voltage off load then see what it drops to when starter engaged.
A Battery Tester is required to see how much life is left but a 24 hour charge followed by a test is the only way to find out if your battery is in need of replacing.

If the battery is over 3 years old it can be safer to replace rather than get caught out again.

I would dearly hope that a new battery will last a bit longer than 3 years. It does no harm to trickle charge your battery now and again or put it on an optimiser.

 

[TripleBee]

1. Connecting to Hookup will not charge the engine battery.

Connecting too Hookup will charge the engine battery.

 

[WelshGas]

Connecting too Hookup will charge the engine battery.
View attachment 85935

It might trickle charge it but unlikely to charge a flat battery to a useful level.

 

[B J G]

I would dearly hope that a new battery will last a bit longer than 3 years. It does no harm to trickle charge your battery now and again or put it on an optimiser.

Many years of experience has led to finding that once a battery lets you down once it then leads to a repeating process of problems. Note it was over 3 years mentioned which applies to standard quality batteries.

If in a position to put on charge as a preventative measure that's a different scenario.
Fortunately the T6 also charges the engine battery during a monthly mains connection.

 

[Ozzy Pete]

Many years of experience has led to finding that once a battery lets you down once it then leads to a repeating process of problems. Note it was over 3 years mentioned which applies to standard quality batteries.

If in a position to put on charge as a preventative measure that's a different scenario.
Fortunately the T6 also charges the engine battery during a monthly mains connection.

Over 3 years? ........4 years 5 years 6years.? A modern battery if looked after should last for MANY years. An optimiser will look after the battery and sometimes bring it back from the dead. I always keep my bike batteries connected to an optimiser over winter and they last many many years. Most people on here have had “Many years of experience “ some more than others.

 

[B J G]

Over 3 years? ........4 years 5 years 6years.? A modern battery if looked after should last for MANY years. An optimiser will look after the battery and sometimes bring it back from the dead. I always keep my bike batteries connected to an optimiser over winter and they last many many years. Most people on here have had “Many years of experience “ some more than others.

I keep my Classic car on an optimiser as you do with your bike. Even this doesn't give an infinite battery life

The vehicle in question is 10 years old and unless there is either documented records or a single owner from new who knows the last time that the battery was replaced actual fitted life will be unknown.
Advice is general as it is often possible to keep a battery in operation by charging but that isn't always possible or convenient with the next start failure being at the most inconvenient time.

 

[WelshGas]

Over 3 years? ........4 years 5 years 6years.? A modern battery if looked after should last for MANY years. An optimiser will look after the battery and sometimes bring it back from the dead. I always keep my bike batteries connected to an optimiser over winter and they last many many years. Most people on here have had “Many years of experience “ some more than others.

Mine lasted 6 yrs and 99,000 miles, used daily. Then it started getting sluggish at starting as the weather got colder. Limped along for 4 weeks charging overnight every few days until the battery I wanted was in stock.
Why would I want to plug into an optimiser over winter, I was using it.

 

[TripleBee]

My battery is placed in november 2009. Still the original now today, 162000km further.

 

[18hunts]

2013 Cali and still running on the original battery.
Love this site, mentions things/terminology that I have no knowledge of.
What's an 'optimiser', is it a trickle charger?

 

[WelshGas]

My battery is placed in november 2009. Still the original now today, 162000km further.

Do you have BlueMotion, Stop-Start and Regenerative Braking?

 

[Alan]

Believe it or not I replaced my original battery from new on my 02 transporter last year only because the service mechanic reported a tired battery !
engine battery on Cali changed after 4 years

 

[Ch1pbutty]

2013 Cali and still running on the original battery.
Love this site, mentions things/terminology that I have no knowledge of.
What's an 'optimiser', is it a trickle charger?

‘Optimiser’ refers to an intelligent battery charger. It essentially conditions your battery as it charges to help ensure best battery life. You just plug it in overnight every now & again:

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You can get cheaper ones but they will be a lower amp. 10amp won’t take too long to charge. (The lower the amp the longer the charge takes.)

 

[WelshGas]

Believe it or not I replaced my original battery from new on my 02 transporter last year only because the service mechanic reported a tired battery !
engine battery on Cali changed after 4 years

I'm guessing the Transporter didn't have BlueMotion, Stop/Start and Regenerative braking.

 

[18hunts]

Thank you for your simple explanation.
The older I get the more simple I like things.

 

[B J G]

Thank you for your simple explanation.
The older I get the more simple I like things.

The more expensive Optimisers also have a function that will go through a process to recover a battery that has oxidised plates that won't fully charge with a 'normal' charger.

They cost about the same as a new battery leading to another decision to make, just buy a new battery or try an optimiser first-which may not recover the battery but leave you with an optimiser for future use.

 

[Alan]

I'm guessing the Transporter didn't have BlueMotion, Stop/Start and Regenerative braking.

No transporter Tdi 2002

 

[WelshGas]

No transporter Tdi 2002

That would explain it. The modern systems put a lot more strain on the Starter battery, especially as it is rarely charged to 100% capacity.

 

[yossarian]

The more expensive Optimisers also have a function that will go through a process to recover a battery that has oxidised plates that won't fully charge with a 'normal' charger.

They cost about the same as a new battery leading to another decision to make, just buy a new battery or try an optimiser first-which may not recover the battery but leave you with an optimiser for future use.

Of course we're talking about breaking down the layer of insoluble lead sulphate that builds up on the plates.

It's certainly not a guaranteed process and you might achieve similar results with a simple lab power supply.

A vibration source might also improve the process.

 

[TripleBee]

Do you have BlueMotion, Stop-Start and Regenerative Braking?

No, it was €500 option to have stop/start, optimised tyres, a useless 5-speed gearbox, an AGM battery and what not more, just to "save" UP TO 0,5 liters of diesel per 100km.

I am glad I have a more usable 6-speed gearbox (manual), normal tyres, cheaper battery and a starter that isn't being tortured because of the stop/start.

 

[WelshGas]

No, it was €500 option to have stop/start, optimised tyres, a useless 5-speed gearbox, an AGM battery and what not more, just to "save" UP TO 0,5 liters of diesel per 100km.

I am glad I have a more usable 6-speed gearbox (manual), normal tyres, cheaper battery and a starter that isn't being tortured because of the stop/start.

Different starters on the Stop/Start vehicles.

And it’s not the fuel economy but what comes out of the exhaust.

 

[TripleBee]

Different starters on the Stop/Start vehicles.

And it’s not the fuel economy but what comes out of the exhaust.

CO2, NOX, SO2, soot, dust particles, ...
Anything more you need?