Help!...I've got a leak.

[fraser500]

Just as an experiment, could you squirt some water onto the drainage channel inside, below the sliding window, to check that the water doesn't drip inside, both front & rear of channel? I'm convinced that must be the area!

Yes good idea, like you say it’s the most likely cause.
I’m not confident popping out the sliding window myself but will have a go at what you’ve suggested. If I can pin point the issue will be much easier for it to be fixed.

 

[westfalia]

How about firing some water using the syringe and water with
red food colouring around the window where its bonded to the
van.

I once saw a new van in the workshop having a new glass fitted
because it wasn't bonded correctly.

 

[fraser500]

How about firing some water using the syringe and water with
red food colouring around the window where its bonded to the
van.

I once saw a new van in the workshop having a new glass fitted
because it wasn't bonded correctly.

That is a very good idea, will give that a try for sure.

 

[fraser500]

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions.
I've given in and booked it in at the VW Van Centre to be diagnosed. I have to wait until the 24th Jan to have it looked at but will update everyone once I know more. Fingers crossed.
If it's the roof it's covered for 6 years by VW if not the roof costs will potentially be incurred, but the dealer I purchased the van from is being very supportive if it's not done under warranty.

 

[AlisonF]

Thank you all for your replies and suggestions.
I've given in and booked it in at the VW Van Centre to be diagnosed. I have to wait until the 24th Jan to have it looked at but will update everyone once I know more. Fingers crossed.
If it's the roof it's covered for 6 years by VW if not the roof costs will potentially be incurred, but the dealer I purchased the van from is being very supportive if it's not done under warranty.

Watching this thread with interest as I have informed my dealer if my leak and they want the van in for ‘testing the leak’... and it may take a day or two to order a new window...
Based on the above I would like to know more from the dealer on what the tests will be... and what the eventual window replacement prodecure would look like (kitchen out or not...?)...

 

[Hets]

I had exactly the same leak - now fixed. The advice given to me by a local van converter is that there is still a lot of ash contamination in the air from the Iceland volcano eruption. It builds up into a thin crust on the rubber seals of the sliding window, pushing them apart enough for the rain to get in. Whether or not the volcano is to blame it proved true, on close inspection, that there was a fine crust of something on the seals. So, I had all the sliding window seals replaced (mine has sliding windows both sides). One tip is to give them a few weeks after installation before trying to slide the windows open. I found that the seals were dragged out of place when I tried mine immediately after replacement, and they had to be refitted. After a few weeks the seals had lost their 'out of the packaging' stickiness and all was fine.
At the time, as a belt and braces job, I arranged for the whole side window to be removed and reset and any rust on the bodywork under the window to be treated. In my Cali (2006 T5) it couldn't be done without removing the kitchen unit. The kitchen unit couldn't be removed because of a bolt through the floor that wouldn't undo. In the end I settled for a discreet amount of clear sealant around the main window.
I hope you get your problem diagnosed and sorted.

 

[clarinetbcn]

Is there any chance this is a condensation issue?

 

[MartG]

Is there any chance this is a condensation issue?

Possibly, but I think you'd see it almost everywhere there is a cold surface, like the windows or covering the metal panels...

 

[fraser500]

I had exactly the same leak - now fixed. The advice given to me by a local van converter is that there is still a lot of ash contamination in the air from the Iceland volcano eruption. It builds up into a thin crust on the rubber seals of the sliding window, pushing them apart enough for the rain to get in. Whether or not the volcano is to blame it proved true, on close inspection, that there was a fine crust of something on the seals. So, I had all the sliding window seals replaced (mine has sliding windows both sides). One tip is to give them a few weeks after installation before trying to slide the windows open. I found that the seals were dragged out of place when I tried mine immediately after replacement, and they had to be refitted. After a few weeks the seals had lost their 'out of the packaging' stickiness and all was fine.
At the time, as a belt and braces job, I arranged for the whole side window to be removed and reset and any rust on the bodywork under the window to be treated. In my Cali (2006 T5) it couldn't be done without removing the kitchen unit. The kitchen unit couldn't be removed because of a bolt through the floor that wouldn't undo. In the end I settled for a discreet amount of clear sealant around the main window.
I hope you get your problem diagnosed and sorted.

Hi Hets,
Thanks for your reply but I think I've taped over the window sufficently to prevent any water coming in for there. See attached pics. I think I would prefer it to be the window becuase where else could it be comiong from. It's defo not condensation as it only happens when it's rained and its nowhere else in the van just behind the kitchen unit. It's going into VW a week on Friday, until then I shall keep bailing!!

Unless if anyones knows if it's still possible for water to get in even though I've completly taped them up with electrical tape all around??

 

[MartG]

I've just been out to have a look at mine. There's a small gap between the glass worktop and the plastic trim, found by shining my phone torch down, which corresponds with the supporting member where your water is. Have you checked the rear of the worktop? There looks like a 'gutter' at each end where the blind slides down which links up with this 'slot' and could take water from the roof area, (B & C pillar areas)...

 

[MartG]

It's fine enough that capillary action could take and hold water there...

 

[fraser500]

Possibly, but I think you'd see it almost everywhere there is a cold surface, like the windows or covering the metal panels...

Defo not condensation, wish it was to be honest. It's too localised and too much of it. I'm not sleeping in it it's just parked on my drive.

 

[Perfectos]

For those that have a leak through the rubber gasket seal, they can be cleaned with water and a soft cloth, once dry treat with Gummi Pfledge,basically a silicone emulsion, which you apply to the clean rubber seal, allow it to dry, reapply as necessary to restores the properties of the rubber.
Prevents the rubber from sticking to the mating / sealing surface which causes the rubber to deteriorate over time / use.
Another everyday solution is the shoe shine sponges, which have silicone oil Inptegnated, the silicone oil restores rubber and penetrates allowing the rubber seal to be revitalised.
I used this method on a previous VW sliding window, with two leaking windows, after two applications is sorted both leaking seals totally.

Use on your door and roof seals to keep in top condition and prevent leaks and squeaks.

Helps stop creaks and spurious noises from doors etc

And no I don’t have shares in the product haha, it just works

 

[fraser500]

I've found the problem!

There is a tiny slit see first picture, I've shone my torch on it. Second picture is a bit clearer.
When I dribble water in, it then pours out exactly when the water has been leaking from.
My question is what is the slit for and can I just seal it up, or is there more to it?
Sorry MartG but I suspect you will be popping outside in a sec...
I've looked on the other side and it also has the same slit.
But at least I've now located the source of the problem which is a great relief and may help Alison.
I’ve already purchased so rubber rejuvenator to apply to the seals around the window to help keep water out.
But I’m sure the water should not be leaking from this slit??

 

[MartG]

That looks torn / damaged... But great that you've found it!

I will nip out and take a pic for your comparison

 

[MartG]

The slit that you're lighting is the drain hole - mine does not have what looks like two holes each side... but that, and there's one more at the rear (left) are the usual culprits...
I'd recommend a visit to the dealer for a replacement trim or try and seal around the drain hole - don't seal the drain itself!
If the drains are blocked, it may be causing the water to flow into the void below, so check that the drains are clear... you may get away with that, and clean the window seals...

 

[MartG]

This doesn't quite answer why you're getting water there after you've taped up the windows, unless the water's been there all along... Just make sure the water hasn't got there from the grey plastic areas...

edit - The drains require to empty below the window outside, which you've now taped up - could this be backing up?

edit 2 - looking closely at your picture, there seems to be a lot of water over the black trim, and over the grey plastic trim - if your windows are taped up successfully, that's a lot of water...

 

[fraser500]

I've just been out to have a look at mine. There's a small gap between the glass worktop and the plastic trim, found by shining my phone torch down, which corresponds with the supporting member where your water is. Have you checked the rear of the worktop? There looks like a 'gutter' at each end where the blind slides down which links up with this 'slot' and could take water from the roof area, (B & C pillar areas)...

I think you've got it.

I'm sadly back to square one.

I thought I had it earlier with the slit in the sliding window but after being out there while it's been raining the area you've circled in red continues to fill with water and like you say capillary action seems to take it along and down. (although that slit does not seem right)

So if it's coming from the B&C pillar areas where do you think it could be coming in from, could there be any drain tubes running down them or could it be the rubber around the pop top not seating properly.

If it is the roof it's covered for 6 years by VW I believe so hopefully down to them to sort.

Thanks again for your suggestions, very helpful indeed.

 

[fraser500]

For those that have a leak through the rubber gasket seal, they can be cleaned with water and a soft cloth, one dry treat with Gummi Pledge, basically a silicone emulsion, which you apply to the clean rubber seal, allow it to dry, reapply as necessary to restores the properties of the rubber.
Prevents the rubber from sticking to the mating / sealing surface which causes the rubber to deteriorate over time / use.
Another everyday solution is the shoe shine sponges, which have silicone oil Inptegnated, the silicone oil restores rubber and penetrates allowing the rubber seal to be revitalised.
I used this method on a previous VW sliding window, with two leaking windows, after two applications is sorted both leaking seals totally.

Use on your door and roof seals to keep in top condition and prevent leaks and squeaks.

Helps stop creaks and spurious noises from doors etc

And no I don’t have shares in the product haha, it just works

Many thanks for your reply, I will be getting busy with the Gummi Pledge as soon as it stops raining.

 

[MartG]

First ensure your drain slits are clear and remove the tape from the bottom of the window outside only. Dry up all the plastic trim inside and wait for the next rain or hose some water on it and monitor where it gets wet inside. If the drains are blocked, the water may be simply overflowing the black and down the grey... or is the water coming in from the sides...

 

[fraser500]

First ensure your drain slits are clear and remove the tape from the bottom of the window outside only. Dry up all the plastic trim inside and wait for the next rain or hose some water on it and monitor where it gets wet inside. If the drains are blocked, the water may be simply overflowing the black and down the grey... or is the water coming in from the sides...

It’s coming from the sides I think, been out there as it’s raining and taken all the tape off.
with the whole black area covered water is still appearing in the crack between the trim and dripping down. So must be coming above and dripping down the side then running into that crack.
Maybe a new seal around the whole pop top but would have thought it should all be sealed up there.
Many thanks again for all your help.

 

[fraser500]

After reading through another thread it may be the grommets that are located under the hydraulic pistons on the roof.

Time will tell I suppose.

 

[rod_vw]

It's an undisclosed special feature of most VW T5s & T6s that the drain system from the runners of sliding windows are not correctly manufactured. VW have know about this since the birth of the T5 in 2003 but as yet have not managed to fix it!

You will find that the two parts that make up the drain below the runner are not properly joined thus allowing water to pass inside the vehicle instead of outside.

The feature should be listed in the vehicle specification

 

[ArunAlec]

It's an undisclosed special feature of most VW T5s & T6s that the drain system from the runners of sliding windows are not correctly manufactured. VW have know about this since the birth of the T5 in 2003 but as yet have not managed to fix it!

You will find that the two parts that make up the drain below the runner are not properly joined thus allowing water to pass inside the vehicle instead of outside.

The feature should be listed in the vehicle specification

I’m almost tempted to see if I could get hold of a second hand window and have a play at working out a fix.

 

[fraser500]

Is this the sort of thing?