HELP! Voltage Plausibility Fault!

California Bristol

California Bristol

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Messages
12
Location
Bristol
Vehicle
T5 SE 180
Hello-

We're based in Bristol with our California we've had for about a year, but used for 5 years previous under my parents ownership. Had some challenges due to the CFCA, so had a DPF blank and now today Voltage Plausibility Fault! So are going to have to take some time to try and resolve this issue too before we can start to enjoy the van again!
 
Hello all;

I've read a number of threads on here and found the very helpful downloadable guide to repair/replace the shunt. But the guidance says the issue is a flickering display. Our comes up with "Voltage Plausibility Fault!" and beeps. Says the roof is open (when it isn't) then turns off. It will cycle through some options, but then turn off and nothing works

The guide says to raise the roof- it's not possible to do that as the display won't let us. My question is, have I diagnosed correctly as the shunt issue based on the above?

Any guidance most welcome
 
Hello all;

I've read a number of threads on here and found the very helpful downloadable guide to repair/replace the shunt. But the guidance says the issue is a flickering display. Our comes up with "Voltage Plausibility Fault!" and beeps. Says the roof is open (when it isn't) then turns off. It will cycle through some options, but then turn off and nothing works

The guide says to raise the roof- it's not possible to do that as the display won't let us. My question is, have I diagnosed correctly as the shunt issue based on the above?

Any guidance most welcome
Is your vehicle pre-2010?
 
Is your vehicle pre-2010?
Hello,
No, it's a 2013.
The display stopped working. I plugged it into the mains- and looks like everything is working otherwise. Could it be leisure battery on it's way our rather than the shunt?

thank you
Mark
 
Hello,
No, it's a 2013.
The display stopped working. I plugged it into the mains- and looks like everything is working otherwise. Could it be leisure battery on it's way our rather than the shunt?

thank you
Mark
The earth shunt problem is mainly confined to pre 2010 models.
1. Are the Leisure Batteries original.
2. Off charge for 1 hrs, what voltage is displayed on the Control Panel?
3. After at least 24hrs off charging or driving what voltage is displayed?

If these are original Batteries and do not hold a voltage of 12.7v for 24hrs then they might well be the cause.
 
Thank you.
The leisure batteries are original.
I charged for 24hrs and everything looked fine, showing 12.5V and 100%
After 24hrs dropped to 12.4V and 80%
After a 30 mile drive dropped to 12.3V and 70%

Thanks
Mark
 
Thank you.
The leisure batteries are original.
I charged for 24hrs and everything looked fine, showing 12.5V and 100%
After 24hrs dropped to 12.4V and 80%
After a 30 mile drive dropped to 12.3V and 70%

Thanks
Mark
Ignore the % calculation. It’s very iffy.
Voltage should be 12.7+ v when fully charged and should be maintained at 12.7v for 48+ hrs or longer with reasonable batteries.

The voltage should not drop on the Control Panel, after driving, if you have nothing plugged in and the voltage on the Control Panel should be between 13.4 to 14.4 v with engine running.
What voltage does Control Panel show when engine On and do you have a “G” symbol R lower screen showing?

6BADCBEB-18C8-4334-B496-47018040B010.jpeg
 
One other check to make is the 2-pin inverter socket behind the front passenger seat.

If an adaptor plug has been left in the socket the inverter will be switched on and slowly drain the leisure batteries.
It is only be switched off if there is nothing plugged into the socket.

But my bet is that after 9 years of use the leisure batteries are coming to the end of their life. 12.5 volts fully charged is a good indicator of that.

If you do decide to replace them make sure you buy two of the same type of battery, they have to match.

Alan
 
Thank you again- it was showing 12.3V when driving...
 
Thank you again- it was showing 12.3V when driving...
Did you have the “G” symbol R lower corner on the Control Panel?

If not it would seem that:
1. Leisure Batteries have had it and need both replacing.

2. You have an electrical fault on the Alternator Charging system for the Leisure Batteries. Check the large Brown 80 amp fuse located under the front passenger seat.

Turn passenger seat to 90o and slide backwards towards the kitchen units.
 
You've both be immensly helpful- thank you! My wife is driving the van, I'll ask her to look for the G symbol tomorrow when driving to work and let you know!
 
Yes, the G is on the display when driving, voltage at 12.3V- seems batteries may need replacing?
 
Check the 80amp fuse WG mentioned in the post above , if it blows the LB‘s will not be receiving a charge, which would concur with the Batteries loose power despite driving
 
Check the 80amp fuse WG mentioned in the post above , if it blows the LB‘s will not be receiving a charge, which would concur with the Batteries loose power despite driving
Thanks- i'll check that out tomorrow!
 
Thanks- i'll check that out tomorrow!
The voltage on the Control Panel should rise to 14.4v , initially, on the Control Panel when the engine is running when driving.
 
OK- so not quite solved....Still not charging (the new batteries), despite the G showing. I've also changed the fuse under the seat just in case- but no luck

Wondering if it to do with the alternator connection? Does anyone know what triggers the G to display? May help to narrow down where the fault is
 
for the time being, ignore the overhead display voltage.

I note you say the LB voltage is 12.3v when driving, how were you monitoring this ? Presumably the over head display.

I do not have an SE / Ocean, but the following will give you a starting point to determine if the batteries are receiving a charge from the alternator, having replaced both LBs it is now important to establish if the alternator is working Correctl.

try these rudimentary tests, note the voltage readings & report back:

1) Take a voltage reading directly from the starter battery (SB),
before starting the van,
use a voltmeter to take the reading from the starter battery terminals.
this will give a true indication of the resting voltage of the starter battery. Voltage should be 12.6 V or higher. (If the van has been used recently, refer to WG chart above)

2) Now do the same for the Leisure Batteries (LB) at rest, you can take a voltage reading from one of the rear Cigarette sockets. (Ocean owners may be able to offer better insight into where the sockets are located)

3) Now turn the van ON (all electrics turned OFF, radio, lights, heater etc ) repeat the voltage readings for both SB & LB.

The starter Battery Voltage should now read IRO 13.6 - 14.8v (Whilst the engine is running as the alternator will / should be putting out a charge ?
Which would indicate the Alternator is putting out the correct voltage To the starter battery Initially

3a) The LB voltage may vary depending on the onboard monitoring & prioritisation of the on board monitoring ,
the LB should read a minimum of 12.6 volts, (If it is receiving a charge from the system it should be between 13.6 - 14.8v ? )

3b) now get someone to Rev the engine to approx 2500rpm and note the SB & LB voltages (before & whilst the engine is being held at 2500 Rpm ?

4) now turn on as many electrical systems as possible, lights, radio etc etc, and repeat the voltage readings on SB & LB ? (whilst the engine is running )
& repeat step 3 and note the Voltages

in theory the voltage measured at the starter battery should be circa 13.6 - 14.8v (whilst the engine is running & again whilst there is an electrical draw from lights, radio etc) which indicates the alternator is providing a maximum charge to the SB.
the smart charging system monitors the state and requirement of the SB & compensates to provide the voltage to either the SB or LB depending on the state of charge and the priority programmed by VW.
the LB are charged via the smart monitoring & split charging system which is why the LB voltage may or may not increase when the engine is running (Particularly of the LBs are full)

I.e. the LB side may or may not rise, depending on the state of charge of the SB / LB noted by the monitoring system

a faulty starter battery (bad cell) can cause havoc with the monitoring system,
the monitoring point is on the negative side of the SB battery cable.
if the above tests show a starter battery voltage below 12.6v at rest (at least 30 minutes after being charged for a reasonable time, via the alternator or a 240v smart charger connected directly to the SB for 24hours) it could be the starter battery at fault.

if the SB voltage does not increase to 13.6 - 14.8v with the engine running, it could be an alternator output fault.

6) additionally with the engine off, plug the van in to 240v and take a reading of the LB whilst they are “on charge “ via the 240v socket on the side of the van, what is the reading before and after plugging into 240v ?
LB voltage should show a minimum of 13.6 volts whilst on charge via 240v (actually plugged in to 240v )

Other areas to investigate:
Underneath the SB there are a set of large main vehicle fuses, to access them you need to remove the starter battery and base tray.
if you attempt this, suggest some further reading, The live battery terminals should be placed into an individual plastic bag to prevent it creating a short Circuit which can cause damage.

Disconnecting the SB battery for 30 minutes should reset the monitoring system, so it may benefit to do this and investigate the fuses under the battery

Similarly a bad chassis earth can cause monitoring issues.

isolating the LB circuit by removing the charging relay or fuse can help determine that the SB is working correctly and receiving a charge.

Does your van have start stop ? Is it working correctly ?

I hope that give you some further thing to check and gives you an indication of what the system should be doing, particularly whilst the engine is running
 
worth a read



 
Last edited:
Thank you for this, just got round to having a look.

So, the alternator appears to be working- the starter battery is taking a charge when running, with or without a load- up (14.5v without load, 14.3v with load). The Leisure battery reading didn't change in any of the scenarios.

When the leisure battery was plugged into the 240v hook up it read 14.4v.

I've already changed the fuse under the drivers seat. So wondering whether the next course of action will be starter battery out and looking at fuses under there?
 
Thank you for this, just got round to having a look.

So, the alternator appears to be working- the starter battery is taking a charge when running, with or without a load- up (14.5v without load, 14.3v with load). The Leisure battery reading didn't change in any of the scenarios.

When the leisure battery was plugged into the 240v hook up it read 14.4v.

I've already changed the fuse under the drivers seat. So wondering whether the next course of action will be starter battery out and looking at fuses under there?
The supply to the Leisure Batteries is Alternator/Engine Battery - 100amp fuse - Split Charge Relay - 80amp fuse - Leisure Battery.

You have changed the 80 amp fuse.

Check voltage In & Out of the Split Charge Relay with Engine running.

If Both voltages are 0 v then check 100amp fuse under engine battery.

If In measures 14+ v but Out measures 0 v then the Split Charge Relay has failed.

See Post 51

 
PROBLEM SOLVED

Pleased to say changing the 100amp fuse under the battery tray has solved the problem. We now have charge. Thank you for all your help, turns out it was a £3 fuse! Of course, we replaced the leisure batteries as part of it, but they were probably due being 10 years old!
 
PROBLEM SOLVED

Pleased to say changing the 100amp fuse under the battery tray has solved the problem. We now have charge. Thank you for all your help, turns out it was a £3 fuse! Of course, we replaced the leisure batteries as part of it, but they were probably due being 10 years old!
Thanks for reporting back. Happy Camping 2023.

Probably right about changing the 10yr old Leisure Batteries.
 
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