IN the event of a puncture - using the spare

[Ocean Spirit]

Changing a wheel for the spare?
What you might want to know as these things happen.


I’ve had 2 punctures and I’m on my 2nd set of tyres on a van I bought from new so regardless of the fact I’m the first owner I think the conditions can relate to average usage for owners.

1. The first time a wheel had been off since Picking up the California from the dealers was for a puncture in a car park and I left it to VW assist to do as I shopped which was actually the AA. I returned to see the technician they sent had a real difficult time in removing the wheel once it was jacked up as the dissimilar metals had bonded through corrosion. With a hefty rubber mallet and the van rocking while on a 3 ton jack it eventually came free. So the next service I asked if VW dealer would remove all 4 wheels and refit them for which they originally wanted a handsome price. I declined, raised my concerns about how someone might get on with the VW tool kit in the dark and why on a busy bend. SCARY! I was able to get a result. The spare wasn’t used.
2. Once this had been done (and I have no idea how ‘stuck’ the 3 remaining wheels were) the wheels came off seemingly easy when a new set of tyres went on. So I wonder if the bonding of dissimilar metals is somewhat passivated once the bond is broken from factory new and clean environments. The spare still hadn’t been used.
3. With the California approaching 50k and advisories on the previous MOT I employed the help of a friend and we changed 4 discs and all pads. We had no issue removing the wheels so either we were unlucky with the 1st wheel from factory or my guess about the initial bond holds some worth.
4. Now with a 6 year old vehicle I collect my 2nd puncture, the same wheel as the 1st one (Drivers side front) and this time its pouring down this and I have to get out of traffics way somehow. Fortunately not overly busy I’m able to pull into a carpark after driving really slowly for about 1 tenth of a mile. With the rain easing, while waiting for the RAC this time I need to use the spare to limit my journey delay so I start to do the things I used to have to. I get the tool kit out of the boot area and loosen the wheel nuts. The locking bolt looked fine and the locking nut did too. But rather than use that emergency jack and the patrol only 10 minutes away I refrained from attempting using it deciding to wait for him. But I did use the socket bar to undo the spare wheel carrier and get that out from under the vehicle. Its not overly difficult even in those weather conditions but its heavy, make sure you removing the one thats not in the slot completely and fully loosen the captured on in the slotted hole. You need to drag the securing arm across (self explanatory when doing it) to the open end and the weight of the wheel takes over so be careful. I found it to be a full size steel wheel when I was expecting a space saver so a pleasant surprise. But also a nasty surprise when you see how rusty the thing has got sitting under your pride and joy for 6 years. With the RAC now in attendance and the hard work done for him he jacked it up and swapped the wheels over. In a hurry I decided it was best to do up the wheel carrier empty and leave the punctured wheel/tyre in the living area on plastic bags.
5. The RAC tech asked me to check the wheel nut tightness after 100 miles if the spare was still being used because of the rust/corrosion at the bolt holes on the spare.
6. Nearly a week passed and I took the puncture to a tyre place who declared it repairable by its location only to find my tenth of a mile journey had ruined the inner wall of the Michelin Crossclimate. £180 later a new tyre was fitted and this particular model is directional so they need to know what side the wheel is going back on.
7. This morning fitting the new tyre I found the wheel nuts much tighter than by the roadside that day when I got the puncture (with the same socket bar) and worse still the locking nut and locking wheel bolt both exhibited some damage. I’m sure this was done by the Tech but can’t prove it so I’m not even going there. But what it did mean was the tools I had stood a real chance of making things worse so I invested in a breaker bar (should have done this years ago) and it prevented any further damage to the bolt and locking nut due to the grip and leverage you can get without slipping.
8. I put the spare back in the carrier. Thats more tricky even in much better conditions with no stress going on. Theoretically its a reversal of the removals steps of course but alignment and weight are the pigs! Make sure you loosen the captive bolt completely don’t be lazy.

So the take aways are
Do you know if your wheels are bonded to the disc mount surfaces?
Do you have & know what condition your locking nut and bolts are in?
Do you have a spare (checked its not been stolen)?
If you’ve driven it flat on the rim for any distance forget the chances of repair.
If you have the time there and then get your breakdown service to complete the job.

 

[GreatResigner]

Surprised that your AA man didn’t try to loosen the wheelnuts before putting it on the jack. That’s mechanic 101 level stuff.

 

[Ocean Spirit]

Surprised that your AA man didn’t try to loosen the wheelnuts before putting it on the jack. That’s mechanic 101 level stuff.

Something has been lost in translation here.
All wheel nuts loosened before van was jacked up.
If you mean the rubber mallet and wobbly jack, thats because the wheel was bonded to the hub.

 

[Ozzy Pete]

When I replaced my wheels with a different set I had to use a sledge hammer to get them off. Since then I put a tiny bit of copper grease on the offending surfaces. Never get problems any longer. The wheels come straight off.

 

[sbmcd]

Without question a smear of copper grease on all the hub spigots and wheel centres the wheels on my van never stick and I change from all seasons to winters every year.

Also a breaker bar with an extension tube and impact driver socket are essential if you are going to attempt a wheel change by the roadside. Using the small supplied jack is dodgy but it's all you have, be careful not to upset the balance when in use.

That's my wife with the wheel photo from this week at Annecy.

 

[Ocean Spirit]

I think the dodgy VW jack is OK if your wheel isn't stuck to the hub.
Thats the bit that could catch people out.

 

[sbmcd]

I think the dodgy VW jack is OK if your wheel isn't stuck to the hub.
Thats the bit that could catch people out.

Dodgy compared to the 2.5 tonne trolley Jack I usually use.

 

[bigmac77]

I don’t use the locking wheel nuts, it makes life easier when it comes to taking the wheels off. I also use copper slip as above and take the wheels off to swap for winter tyres on a separate set of rims. I also put copper grease on the threads of the two bolts that hold the spare wheel hanger in place.

 

[andyinluton]

Dodgy compared to the 2.5 tonne trolley Jack I usually use.

I bought a cheap Halfords 2 tonne trolly jack when I needed a lower one to fit under the Morgan, the picture below shows the Broken welds on the rear wheel support from the 1st time I used it to change a cali wheel. Halfords wouldn't refund or exchange as I couldn't find the receipt. They didn't think it was a safety issue. Unsurprisingly my zero Star review left on their website was swiftly removed.

I now use a Sealy jack that weighs almost as much as the van.

 

[Paulro]

Good post. I’ve experienced this and I think the breaker bar is a must.

 

[Cali Phillip]

Without question a smear of copper grease on all the hub spigots and wheel centres the wheels on my van never stick and I change from all seasons to winters every year.

Also a breaker bar with an extension tube and impact driver socket are essential if you are going to attempt a wheel change by the roadside. Using the small supplied jack is dodgy but it's all you have, be careful not to upset the balance when in use.

That's my wife with the wheel photo from this week at Annecy.

View attachment 115267

View attachment 115268

Time to check my spare, get a breaker bar, can you tell which Ramps are those ?

 

[sidepod]

At the risk of over simplifying it, if you tighten the bolts with the VW supplied wrench, then it stands to reason you’ll be able to remove them with same!

 

[sbmcd]

Time to check my spare, get a breaker bar, can you tell which Ramps are those ?

Fiami levelling ramps, the one I carry all the time.

 

[sbmcd]

At the risk of over simplifying it, if you tighten the bolts with the VW supplied wrench, then it stands to reason you’ll be able to remove them with same!

True but I doubt the correct torque could be achieved

 

[sidepod]

True but I doubt the correct torque could be achieved

Get a grip, it’ll be more than sufficient!

 

[Ch1pbutty]

Get your local tyre fitter to take the wheels off & copper grease the rear face of the wheel where it meets the hub (ours charges £5 per wheel). Then it’s far easier for the AA/RAC to get the old wheel off should to have a puncture. DIY is possible but usually requires a fair amount of elbow grease, decent Jack & firm jacking surface.

For us its better to carry a full size matching alloy spare / tyres, then no issue with rust on the rims; Just swap the wheel and get in your way. Get the tyre repaired / replaced when you get home.

 

[sbmcd]

Get a grip, it’ll be more than sufficient!

I admire your optimism.

 

[Viktorgeorge]

At the risk of over simplifying it, if you tighten the bolts with the VW supplied wrench, then it stands to reason you’ll be able to remove them with same!

If you have a recent T6.1 like mine with the VW supplied locknut and wrench you may find as I did that this is not at all easy (best to try to understand). The standard wheel nuts are quite easy to remove, it is only the locknuts that are problematic. After trying this on my brand new Ocean, I now carry my own sockets and torque wrench at all times.

 

[Barry Chuckle]

One thing that puzzles me is that if the vehicle is relatively new isn't just easier to call out the breakdown to sort punctures out? that's what I tend to do even if at home and as the AA man told me it's one of the main call outs they attend. Or is it just that owners just prefer to be back on the road ASAP rather than wait for the breakdown service, which I suppose also makes sense?

 

[sbmcd]

One thing that puzzles me is that if the vehicle is relatively new isn't just easier to call out the breakdown to sort punctures out? that's what I tend to do even if at home and as the AA man told me it's one of the main call outs they attend. Or is it just that owners just prefer to be back on the road ASAP rather than wait for the breakdown service, which I suppose also makes sense?

Time is the main driver for me, depending on where you are and when you have the problem it could take a long time for breakdown service to reach you. Some people will be comfortable with the task of doing it yourself and some will not.

 

[Ocean Spirit]

At the risk of over simplifying it, if you tighten the bolts with the VW supplied wrench, then it stands to reason you’ll be able to remove them with same!

In my case yes thats over simplifying it.
The same wheel had had a puncture already, thats when the recovery service (@Barry Chuckle ) used some kind of torquey impact driver to remove the studs and put them back in. The 2nd puncture that prompted my first post the recovery guy did the same thing. So somewhere in that lot the locking wheel nut took some damage and required a pretty firm leverage better than that offered by the VW bar.
Also the first puncture was when the van was new and it was the way the alloy wheel bonded to the disc hub that gave the biggest issue.
Your simplification is just fine if the bolts are in good condition and there are no corrosion issues.
My spare was only used for the first time on that second puncture so it was 6 years old never been removed from under the van. But the corrosion on the bolt holes was an eye opener.

 

[Steve1]

If anyone ever needs to replace a wheel when it's corroded on I have had success 3 times using the mallet I use for the awning pegs. Once the van is raised and the wheel studs are removed. If you put the spare wheel under the van first under something looking sturdy, incase the van falls off of the side jack it might save you or the van from bellying right out. Then lay alongside the van, not under in case of it falling of the side jack. Arm under the van (unavoidable, but the spare underneath should stop it falling far enough to crush your arm). Then start hammering the lower part of the tyre with the mallet while an assistant rotates the wheel. If you don't have an assistant you will have to awkwardly use your other arm to rotate the wheel. Just keep hammering hard but not hard enough to knock off of the jack and rotating and they eventually work their way off.

Note if on a good trolley jack not the side jack the common technique is to stand back to the wheel foot up knee poking out away from the van and kick back hard hitting the top of the tyre with your heel hard. They usually pop off in one then. But that is usually too scary with the side jack you might knock the van off with the force.

 

[sbmcd]

If anyone ever needs to replace a wheel when it's corroded on I have had success 3 times using the mallet I use for the awning pegs. Once the van is raised and the wheel studs are removed. If you put the spare wheel under the van first under something looking sturdy, incase the van falls off of the side jack it might save you or the van from bellying right out. Then lay alongside the van, not under in case of it falling of the side jack. Arm under the van (unavoidable, but the spare underneath should stop it falling far enough to crush your arm). Then start hammering the lower part of the tyre with the mallet while an assistant rotates the wheel. If you don't have an assistant you will have to awkwardly use your other arm to rotate the wheel. Just keep hammering hard but not hard enough to knock off of the jack and rotating and they eventually work their way off.

Note if on a good trolley jack not the side jack the common technique is to stand back to the wheel foot up knee poking out away from the van and kick back hard hitting the top of the tyre with your heel hard. They usually pop off in one then. But that is usually too scary with the side jack you might knock the van off with the force.

I have read in previous posts on the same subject that another technique is to loosen the studs a little and drive forward and backwards a little to break the corrosion bond before jacking and wheel removal, never had to try it myself but it sounds a valid option.

 

[Steve1]

Also never tried it, but has a reasonable chance of working.

 

[WelshGas]

One thing that puzzles me is that if the vehicle is relatively new isn't just easier to call out the breakdown to sort punctures out? that's what I tend to do even if at home and as the AA man told me it's one of the main call outs they attend. Or is it just that owners just prefer to be back on the road ASAP rather than wait for the breakdown service, which I suppose also makes sense?

In the middle of Scandinavia it can take a little while for a Breakdown service to arrive.
My wheels are removed annually and copper greased. I carry a spare, tyre threads and tyre gunk.