Replacing side sliding windows

[AlistairC]

Does anyone have experience of replacing complete sliding glass side windows?

The time has come to resolve these tired units.

Intending to replace the entire glazed panel and not just the sliding component.

 

[steve_b]

I don't but the guy over the road runs a conversion business and the first thing they do with every caravelle or similar is remove the wretched factory sliding windows. I think it's a pretty quick and easy job if you know what you are doing, they probably cut the glass out by sliding a cheese wire behind it and bang in a new one. Doesn't take long and doesn't cost much (at least to the trade).

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

I don't but the guy over the road runs a conversion business and the first thing they do with every caravelle or similar is remove the wretched factory sliding windows. I think it's a pretty quick and easy job if you know what you are doing, they probably cut the glass out by sliding a cheese wire behind it and bang in a new one. Doesn't take long and doesn't cost much (at least to the trade).

I wonder why he removes them? We find them very useful for venting the van i.e. if cooking inside.

 

[steve_b]

Ah, I wasn't clear. He removes the factory fit sliding windows and fits aftermarket sliding windows.

Ones that are well designed, and do not leak...

 

[AlistairC]

I assume he removes the leaky windows to replace with aftermarket. Problem with a Cali is that the VW window rails are blended with the vehicle trim. Aftermarket is fine on a conversion where walls etc are carpeted - but not a Cali.
I’m planning to replace window over kitchen with A new VW slider and sliding door window with a fixed double glazed pane.

 

[steve_b]

Thanks. Be interested in an idea of the cost when you do it. Both of mine leak, damned things... I could go with a fixed panel behind the kitchen , I am trying to resolve (make leak less) the sliding door side as that is easier to work on..

 

[AlistairC]

First window swapped out today.
Turns out that the sliding window pins had worn, letting more water into the channels than they could cope with.
There is a steel section under the plastic runner (which is all bonded to the window glass). On mine, the steel part had rusted and become detached from the glass at one end. Fortunately the door had drained well and the door itself hadn’t suffered corrosion.

Either way, sliding door’s opening window has now been replaced for a fixed double glazed unit.

Thought about cutting it out with the specialist wire cutter - but in the end I went the destructive method!

 

[Steve1]

First window swapped out today.
Turns out that the sliding window pins had worn, letting more water into the channels than they could cope with.
There is a steel section under the plastic runner (which is all bonded to the window glass). On mine, the steel part had rusted and become detached from the glass at one end. Fortunately the door had drained well and the door itself hadn’t suffered corrosion.

Either way, sliding door’s opening window has now been replaced for a fixed double glazed unit.

Thought about cutting it out with the specialist wire cutter - but in the end I went the destructive method!

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Did you just smash the whole glass then cut / peel off the bonding left behind ?

 

[steve_b]

interesting

Curious how much the fixed panel from VW cost and does the tint match OK etc ? I can see me maybe doing the kitchen side as fixed panel as my window leaks into the kitchen and it's a right pain.

How does the internal trim look after you have done the window on the back of the kitchen?

Thanks

 

[AlistairC]

My windows came from one of the resellers who clear surplus stock from main dealers. They’re called Deutscheparts and sell on ebay too. They did me a deal for two for about £550 but RRP was well over £1200 I’m afraid.

Interestingly, my sliding door had no mechanism to drain water from the rails to the outside. It was assembled with the intention that the gathered water would drop down into the door cavity and drain therough the door’s drain holes at the bottom.

This clearly hadn’t worked too well and instead, the standing water had rotted the lower channel guide.

I wonder if newer vans have drains that exit under the glass rather than into the door?

I’d hope that my kitchen side glass has external exit drains. Maybe not?! I’ll update when I know for sure!

Pleased to say that my replacement glass slides beautifully and has the ext drain channels. I may polyurethane the channels a bit before fitting as there are reports of the sliding rails becoming separated from the ext exit channels. I’ll add a picture of what I mean!

 

[AlistairC]

Confirmed, new vans (not sure from what year) are built with external drain exits on the lower rails. My 2007 sliding door did not.

Not sure about the kitchen side. I did flood the rails last night and nothing exited externally. Hence previous owner sealing them up!

Did you just smash the whole glass then cut / peel off the bonding left behind ?

yes. Sliding panel removed, taped up remaining glass then smashed with emergency hammer.
Cut tape to remove bulk of glass in one piece then trimmed out remaining PU & glass

 

[AlistairC]

and does the tint match OK etc ?

Glass from factory is either Green or Tint.
Mine was green but has a dealer applied tint film.
I decided to fit ‘privacy glass’ as replacement units and I’m happy with the match.
Perhaps the most noticeably part is the piano black outer edges. The old glass has faded a little so isn’t quite as black as the new pane.

Either way, I’m happy with the extra double glazing and no leak!

 

[Steve1]

Confirmed, new vans (not sure from what year) are built with external drain exits on the lower rails. My 2007 sliding door did not.

Not sure about the kitchen side. I did flood the rails last night and nothing exited externally. Hence previous owner sealing them up!

yes. Sliding panel removed, taped up remaining glass then smashed with emergency hammer.
Cut tape to remove bulk of glass in one piece then trimmed out remaining PU & glassView attachment 100746

I wouldn't have thought to do it that way

 

[AlistairC]

So to confirm findings, yes, my 2007 Kitchen side window had no ‘drain channels’. Any leakage simply soaked into the steelwork that supports the window channels or finds the window runners and disappears through the holes to simply drop into the kitchen carcass! Great design!!
Not sure what year the external drainage channels started being fitted as std.

On a more positive note, my new window went in today.

All fairly straight forward. Again destructive removal technique. I tried both Stanley knife and cord ‘saw’ (a VW genuine part) technique to remove final adhesive strip. Sadly the broken glass edges made the fibre saw wear very quickly But it was useful. In tricky areas. Overall about 4 hours work. I used Dinitrol 500 adhesive.

Added a few extra photos of the fixed pane and my solution to fill the gap in the trim using recycled window rails.

Also photos showing how I sealed the built in drains to overcome issues that others have found where the VW sealing fails allowing water to leak behind the kitchen units rather than being channelled back outside. This is a job that can only really be done before bonding a window to a van.

Hope this helps

 

[GloriaDoodlefly77]

So to confirm findings, yes, my 2007 Kitchen side window had no ‘drain channels’. Any leakage simply soaked into the steelwork that supports the window channels or finds the window runners and disappears through the holes to simply drop into the kitchen carcass! Great design!!
Not sure what year the external drainage channels started being fitted as std.

On a more positive note, my new window went in today.

All fairly straight forward. Again destructive removal technique. I tried both Stanley knife and cord ‘saw’ (a VW genuine part) technique to remove final adhesive strip. Sadly the broken glass edges made the fibre saw wear very quickly But it was useful. In tricky areas. Overall about 4 hours work. I used Dinitrol 500 adhesive.

Added a few extra photos of the fixed pane and my solution to fill the gap in the trim using recycled window rails.

Also photos showing how I sealed the built in drains to overcome issues that others have found where the VW sealing fails allowing water to leak behind the kitchen units rather than being channelled back outside. This is a job that can only really be done before bonding a window to a van.

Hope this helps
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Hi . How did you attach the window trim (to fill the void) and presumably you could do the same on the kitchen side if you had gone after market new sliding window and filled the gap with existing black rail? Does that make sense?
I too am having problems with leaking kitchen side sliding window . Don’t want to pay out for Vw replacement but am interested in aftermarket slider. It’s just that dam void behind the kitchen. But possibly your solution for the trim would work? Does it separate from the glass without breaking?
Many thanks for your pictures, really helpful

 

[AlistairC]

Hi . How did you attach the window trim (to fill the void) and presumably you could do the same on the kitchen side if you had gone after market new sliding window and filled the gap with existing black rail? Does that make sense?
I too am having problems with leaking kitchen side sliding window . Don’t want to pay out for Vw replacement but am interested in aftermarket slider. It’s just that dam void behind the kitchen. But possibly your solution for the trim would work? Does it separate from the glass without breaking?
Many thanks for your pictures, really helpful

The plastic trim bits are bonded to a steel component (bracket), which itself is bonded to the glass.

My lower rails were very rusty so I salvaged both top rail covers (window channels) and used them upper and lower on the sliding door side. Without their steel support and bonded internally to the door plastics (once removed) with sika flex. In honesty, it all worked very well and unless you recognise the cover pieces as window runners you’d struggle to know it isn’t original!

If I remember correctly, removing the kitchen side surround trims is much more involved and may even necessitate removal of the kitchen and wardrobe. Again, pleased I upgraded to a 2022 sliding window and modified the drain.

Aftermarket windows are potentially better, but not without risks:

- Doesn’t look as good as the flush VW pane
- Midge screens won’t fit aftermarket
- tint mis-match quite likely
- Internally, the aftermarket runners may not fit the cali’s trim panels
Etc

 

[GloriaDoodlefly77]

The plastic trim bits are bonded to a steel component (bracket), which itself is bonded to the glass.

My lower rails were very rusty so I salvaged both top rail covers (window channels) and used them upper and lower on the sliding door side. Without their steel support and bonded internally to the door plastics (once removed) with sika flex. In honesty, it all worked very well and unless you recognise the cover pieces as window runners you’d struggle to know it isn’t original!

If I remember correctly, removing the kitchen side surround trims is much more involved and may even necessitate removal of the kitchen and wardrobe. Again, pleased I upgraded to a 2022 sliding window and modified the drain.

Aftermarket windows are potentially better, but not without risks:

- Doesn’t look as good as the flush VW pane
- Midge screens won’t fit aftermarket
- tint mis-match quite likely
- Internally, the aftermarket runners may not fit the cali’s trim panels
Etc

Thanks for getting back to me. Helpful .
I may have to resign myself to new Vw window and do as you did with extra glue on the drain before it’s fitted.
I wouldn’t fit the window myself but just wondered if you think a mobile window company that deal with cars/vans would be able to remove existing window for me to do repair on drain and then put it back in to save me buying a whole new window unit.
Wonder if them having equipment to remove without breaking that could be an option?
Sorry I know I am just thinking out loud really: lol.
Anyone else had any experience of this?
Thanks again

 

[AlistairC]

Whether it is worth taking off and refitting perhaps depends on how old it is and whether you have corrosion / misting of the glass etc.

The other option you have is to drill through the existing rail drain and plumb through a pipe into the waste water pipe work. There is a good thread describing it somewhere on here.

 

[GloriaDoodlefly77]

Whether it is worth taking off and refitting perhaps depends on how old it is and whether you have corrosion / misting of the glass etc.

The other option you have is to drill through the existing rail drain and plumb through a pipe into the waste water pipe work. There is a good thread describing it somewhere on here.

Yes I did spot that somewhere on here. Just found it .

 

[MarkRichardson]

Yes I did spot that somewhere on here. Just found it .

Hope you don't mind me jumping on this post but did you find the thread about drilling through the rail drain and connecting it to the waste? Currently gone old skool and taped up the darned side window to keep it dry in winter months but want to find a permanent solution, preferably one that doesn't involve paying VW good money to fit another poor and likely faulty window! Thanks

 

[AlistairC]

Hope you don't mind me jumping on this post but did you find the thread about drilling through the rail drain and connecting it to the waste? Currently gone old skool and taped up the darned side window to keep it dry in winter months but want to find a permanent solution, preferably one that doesn't involve paying VW good money to fit another poor and likely faulty window! Thanks

Try this thread, page 2, posts by crasher.
A very good solution if things haven’t been allowed to get really bad!

Leaking side window

Not sure I follow. Can you repeat the question / statement? There are two feeds into the drain one from the window track and a smaller one that is located up against the glass and is not obvious.

vwcaliforniaclub.com

 

[GloriaDoodlefly77]

Hope you don't mind me jumping on this post but did you find the thread about drilling through the rail drain and connecting it to the waste? Currently gone old skool and taped up the darned side window to keep it dry in winter months but want to find a permanent solution, preferably one that doesn't involve paying VW good money to fit another poor and likely faulty window! Thanks

Hi, only just spotted your post. I knew I found it somewhere but couldn’t remember where. So thanks Alistair for re posting the link to crusher and his photos .
My leaking window woes continue, it’s so frustrating knowing what the problem is but not being able to access the drains to re seal. Syringe test shows water draining directly into kitchen cupboards .

I spoke today with a few people to ask if they could remove my window so I could repair drains and then re install them for me. I was told that the removal process cuts through the plastic drains so wouldnt be able to be repaired and re fitted. Very annoying.

Called Vw for a price on new window unit fitted and they wanted £940.

So I am now considering doing the plastic pipe solution. if that goes wrong then I will have to get aftermarket fitted and fill the void at back of kitchen unit with something.

I did speak to a really helpful chap about the compatibility of aftermarket on a California and he is fairly confident it can be done. He is going to look at my California tomorrow weather permitting to make sure. I will let you know what he says.
Seen some rather nice flush fitting aftermarket windows online at £200 By camper glass. Fitting would be £150 By my helpful guy I spoke to today. So all in £350 rather than £940 from Vw! Would just need to get the tint right to match the existing windows.
am I right in thinking that the California windows are dark green privacy glass?

I will post with any new information.

 

[AlistairC]

Hi, only just spotted your post. I knew I found it somewhere but couldn’t remember where. So thanks Alistair for re posting the link to crusher and his photos .
My leaking window woes continue, it’s so frustrating knowing what the problem is but not being able to access the drains to re seal. Syringe test shows water draining directly into kitchen cupboards .

I spoke today with a few people to ask if they could remove my window so I could repair drains and then re install them for me. I was told that the removal process cuts through the plastic drains so wouldnt be able to be repaired and re fitted. Very annoying.

Called Vw for a price on new window unit fitted and they wanted £940.

So I am now considering doing the plastic pipe solution. if that goes wrong then I will have to get aftermarket fitted and fill the void at back of kitchen unit with something.

I did speak to a really helpful chap about the compatibility of aftermarket on a California and he is fairly confident it can be done. He is going to look at my California tomorrow weather permitting to make sure. I will let you know what he says.
Seen some rather nice flush fitting aftermarket windows online at £200 By camper glass. Fitting would be £150 By my helpful guy I spoke to today. So all in £350 rather than £940 from Vw! Would just need to get the tint right to match the existing windows.
am I right in thinking that the California windows are dark green privacy glass?

I will post with any new information.

Re colour, it depends on what was specced by original order. Some were green, and some ‘privacy’ ie smoked. Most aftermarket are really quite dark and bordering on the ‘limo tint’ effect. Unfortunately there isn’t a reliable method of measuring a glass’s tint beyond an approximation the sellers provide. Not unless you can acquire a VLT meter!

My cali was green but a previous owner had them tinted with film on top.

I’d imagine that aftermarket glass could be fitted but the different sliding mechanism rails won’t be a great match for the cutouts provided by the cali kitchen.

I have now fitted sliding glass (aftermarket) into a converted panel van and also replaced genuine cali glass in my cali. Whilst both do the same job I’d be sceptical about fitting aftermarket for a number of reasons - physical fitment, colour and loss of ‘originality’ for subsequent buyers. I’m not saying it’s not possible but I’d be careful what you commit to.
If there is no sign of corrosion or clouding of the glass, I’d definately go down the re-plumbing route. I know I’ll be doing that when mine start leaking!

Re you’re fitters comments regarding the drains being cut on removal - well yes, I’d be inclined to agree on that as a likelihood, but it is possible to do it - I have seen breakers on eBay selling windows that have been cut out successfully - but perhaps that was done with collateral damage to paintwork or perhaps it is a cali specific complication resulting from the presence of the fitted kitchen. Who knows!

 

[MarkRichardson]

Try this thread, page 2, posts by crasher.
A very good solution if things haven’t been allowed to get really bad!

Leaking side window

Not sure I follow. Can you repeat the question / statement? There are two feeds into the drain one from the window track and a smaller one that is located up against the glass and is not obvious.

vwcaliforniaclub.com

Thank you! Quite like the look of that solution so need to do some further investigation before deciding. Thanks for sharing

 

[GloriaDoodlefly77]

Re colour, it depends on what was specced by original order. Some were green, and some ‘privacy’ ie smoked. Most aftermarket are really quite dark and bordering on the ‘limo tint’ effect. Unfortunately there isn’t a reliable method of measuring a glass’s tint beyond an approximation the sellers provide. Not unless you can acquire a VLT meter!

My cali was green but a previous owner had them tinted with film on top.

I’d imagine that aftermarket glass could be fitted but the different sliding mechanism rails won’t be a great match for the cutouts provided by the cali kitchen.

I have now fitted sliding glass (aftermarket) into a converted panel van and also replaced genuine cali glass in my cali. Whilst both do the same job I’d be sceptical about fitting aftermarket for a number of reasons - physical fitment, colour and loss of ‘originality’ for subsequent buyers. I’m not saying it’s not possible but I’d be careful what you commit to.
If there is no sign of corrosion or clouding of the glass, I’d definately go down the re-plumbing route. I know I’ll be doing that when mine start leaking!

Re you’re fitters comments regarding the drains being cut on removal - well yes, I’d be inclined to agree on that as a likelihood, but it is possible to do it - I have seen breakers on eBay selling windows that have been cut out successfully - but perhaps that was done with collateral damage to paintwork or perhaps it is a cali specific complication resulting from the presence of the fitted kitchen. Who knows!

Really good point about re sale value. We are definitely going to try the plastic pipe plumbing route first. I have messaged the person who posted pictures for a tiny bit more info. Size of plastic pipe used. I presume the drilling part is to drill through the drain underneath that’s faulty. Not sure. We will probably use a plastic bottle to catch the water at first before channeling into waste pipe.

We also have the additional annnoyance of our window rubber seal has separated at the top. Could be why water is breaching the window in the first place. So I am also trying to find out if I can glue it back together and what adhesive to use. That being said I’m not sure there is much stretch in it now. Another annoying problem that vw don’t sell the rubber separately . I have seen a post on here of someone using square 8mm rubber foam and creating a new seal. Will give that a go as well.

Thanks for your replies