Reversing camera installation advice

marshian70 · Mar 26, 2015

Hi All, I'm hoping for some advice from the techies out there
I've just replaced the standard RCD 310 with an aftermarket head unit. Whilst my Cali has reversing sensors, I could not resist buying the wireless reversing camera too, which simply replaces one of the number plate lights.
I do however need to provide power to the camera and the instructions suggest simply taking a feed from the reversing light lead.
I'm conscious of not wanting to upset anything else and therefore appreciate advice as to whether splicing into the reversing light feed will be OK or if there is another solution?
Many thanks

WelshGas · Mar 26, 2015

You should have no problem doing that, just getting the wire from the tailgate to the reversing light will be a bigger problem. Personally I would connect at the reversing light fitting rather than splicing into the wire at some remote point. If you are worried about power consumption of the addition then you could consider changing both reverse bulbs for LED equivalents. They are brighter, use less current and I don't think they have to be EU approved for the MOT.

marshian70 · Mar 26, 2015

G

WelshGas said:
You should have no problem doing that, just getting the wire from the tailgate to the reversing light will be a bigger problem. Personally I would connect at the reversing light fitting rather than splicing into the wire at some remote point. If you are worried about power consumption of the addition then you could consider changing both reverse bulbs for LED equivalents. They are brighter, use less current and I don't think they have to be EU approved for the MOT.

Good point, cheers!

abz_cali · Apr 28, 2015

Having fitted a reverse camera, wired, the biggest nightmare was how the tailgate is constructed. Once you have removed the chairs and surroundings you get to the cardboard bit. The cardboard is held on by screws, which inturn go into threaded rivets, some will spin rather than slacken. I had to grind them out with a dremmel. I ended up buying a sealey ak393 to fit new threaded rivets. Took many many hours.

Getting from the tailgate to the dash for the wired camera was about 5 mins and childs play in comparison. If you do want to get from tailgate to front, Remove the two small interior lights, really easy to do and you can easily feed a wire through to roughly where your top bunk light is. Then feed behind the rubber. Getting down the passenger pillar is bit more of a pain. Remove the grab handle to make easier. The bit with the airbag switch just unclips and gives access into the dash.

I have previously had wireless cameras and found bluetooth interfered with the picture.

With regard to reverse voltage, I had fitted a towbar so had a by-pass relay which I could pick-up a 12v reverse signal from. A low power draw relay is the same thing as a by-pass relay, less than a £5 on ebay. Full by-pass is only £20.

I drilled a hole in the metal above the rear heater and got access into the void behind the driver side lights. Used the new 3m scotchlock, (small and filled with silicon) to splice. Then used the 12v from the outlet thats in the same side, to power the by-pass relay. You then just lift the rear floor bit to run from driver to passenger side. I tied in at the drivers side as that is where the fog light is, and there is an easily accessible 12v. I can have a look for where I wrote down all the lights wire colours and post, although its relatively easy to decipher when you remove the taillight cluster and not 100% sure if this is constant year on year. Mine is a 2013 California.

ssaini · Nov 23, 2019

How did you remove the bit where chairs are .? The plastic rivetsetc

sidepod · Nov 23, 2019

What part of wireless involves running wires to the camera?

WG, does the camera not require a “Reverse selected “ power supply as opposed to a permanent supply as you suggest?

the camera may well be “wireless” back to the head unit but it still needs to know when you’ve selected reverse, hence the link to the reverse light.

WelshGas · Nov 23, 2019

sidepod said:
What part of wireless involves running wires to the camera?

WG, does the camera not require a “Reverse selected “ power supply as opposed to a permanent supply as you suggest?

the camera may well be “wireless” back to the head unit but it still needs to know when you’ve selected reverse, hence the link to the reverse light.

Not sure what you mean. I did suggest wiring the camera into the Reversing Light, so it would only be powered when Reverse is selected.

AlistairC · Sep 19, 2022

abz_cali said:
Getting from the tailgate to the dash for the wired camera was about 5 mins and childs play in comparison. If you do want to get from tailgate to front, Remove the two small interior lights,……

I’ve just finished installing mine into a late 2006 model.

Tailgate involved the usual spinning rivnuts- so ground out and fitted x10 new M6 fittings.

I also bought a T5 specific camera from eBay - but (because it’s a cali?) the no plate light position meant the camera stuck out. So following weekend I bought a universal ‘Connect2 CAM-17’ and fitted this instead. Much, much nicer camera in a die cast body.

Wiring from reverse bulb to camera was fairly simple. Powe then joined to yellow coax to give reverse trigger to screen unit. Tried to rod cable from wardrobe to front…. Got 2.5m down but couldn’t locate above pass door.
Tried to rod from front sink light to wardrobe but something impassable above C pillar. Ended up taking c-pillar cover off and rodded up and into wardrobe space. Once cable into the light void it was all plain sailing.
Goodness only knows what is up there above the c-pillar but it lost me 2hrs progress!
Anyway, hope this helps the next person to DIY it!

Pioneer Dab radio (130) £350
Connects2 CAM-17 £30
Auto leads Dab aerial £20
Longer yellow video cable £10
Extra hookup wire for reverse wire
Fairy liquid for lubricating wires through rubbers

horrible fitting ‘T5‘ custom fit camera - obviously not California fit! Binned.