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Solar - What Volts / Watts / KWH do you get

Only had my set up for a few weeks but so far very impressed. It's from SCS, 1x100w panel and Victron MPPT. Peaked at 86W which is impressively efficient. Currently working from the van with laptop plugged into the inverter and fridge on level 5 and batteries are in float

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This is the post I've been looking for! I was led to believe that I'd need to buy a big battery like EcoFlow/Jackery type as I wouldn't be able to run my laptop from an inverter connected to the leisure batteries. Please could you tell me which inverter do you use?

Thanks!
 
This is the post I've been looking for! I was led to believe that I'd need to buy a big battery like EcoFlow/Jackery type as I wouldn't be able to run my laptop from an inverter connected to the leisure batteries. Please could you tell me which inverter do you use?

Thanks!
The inverter you have in your California should be sufficient.
 
This is the post I've been looking for! I was led to believe that I'd need to buy a big battery like EcoFlow/Jackery type as I wouldn't be able to run my laptop from an inverter connected to the leisure batteries. Please could you tell me which inverter do you use?

Thanks!

Hi, I used the standard 150w inverter in the van which is ample to keep my 13” MacBook Pro fully charged. I do have an Ecoflow River2 which I keep as a back up but with the plentiful sun we are enjoying at the moment it isn’t needed.


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This is the post I've been looking for! I was led to believe that I'd need to buy a big battery like EcoFlow/Jackery type as I wouldn't be able to run my laptop from an inverter connected to the leisure batteries. Please could you tell me which inverter do you use?

Thanks!
If you have a T6 then it’s a 150watt inverter, the 6.1 got upgraded to 300watts.
 
I have seen a max of around 1,2-1,4 kWh in one day from 310W of solar on the roof in central Europe. I needed to create lots of load to achieve this, the fridge alone only draws around 450 Wh per day.

As already mentioned, if you are spending many hours on float then energy that the solar panels are capable of delivering is not being used. Batteries are full and there are no significant loads so the MPPT will not extract the maximum from the panels.

Energy that a solar install can provide is estimated here ... just enter your location and the details of the solar install.

 
Erm sorry to be dense. I thought the electric sockets only worked on hook up? (6.1)
The socket on the end of the kitchen (by the sink, behind passenger seat) only works in EHU.
The socket under the drivers chair is on an invertor and works from the Lesuire battery’s, so no EHU needed.
 
Best way I have found to charge laptops in van if you have a victron mppt charge Controller then connect a 65w watt pd outlet to the load terminals then can set cut off voltage as required.Mist efficient way to charge from batteries .Just need usb c with adaptor to suit any device you want to charge.
 
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What’s the breaker in the back for?
I’m guessing it’s for EHU.
I have my California EHU connected to an outside wall box that’s on a 2.5mm T&E to a plug mounted into an RCD.
When I want to trickle charge the Saab and charge the EHU I press the reset on the inside wall’s RCD and the California charges and the Saab trickle charger charges.
I’ve just come to switch the gas off and remove the gas canister and found this in the red position.
I’ve switched on (green?) and pressed the test button.
Does nothing.
Pushed lever so the red indicator shows.
Press the test button. Nothing.
So I guess the test button won’t work unless I have it plugged into EHU.
And it’s tripped off (red) as I’ve tripped the main RCD test button inside the house ?
 
Ignore me.
I’ve read several threads and red indicator is on.
:cheers
 
4/5 days at a festival no ehu fridge on setting 5... beer has to be cold, phones charged, battery packs, ipads etc, More than happy with this result. The display said 0% charge was a little worried at first but voltage good, so beer kept chilled and iphones charged fully to keep daughter entertained

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I have mine mounted on my roof rack rather than directly on the van rails, as a result I have around 2" of airflow underneath the panel. I've no idea if that helps with efficiency in high temperatures but I've not seen a noticeable tail off in performance during the current UK heatwave?
Pretty sure the air gap helps considerably. The stick on panels with no gap are (from what I hear) prone to overheat. @The Blue Merle was a sufferer!
 
Pretty sure the air gap helps considerably. The stick on panels with no gap are (from what I hear) prone to overheat. @The Blue Merle was a sufferer!
Heard anything over 25degrees and the efficiency decreases.
 
Glad I stumbled across this thread as I have just installed a 100W solar panel from SCS (great service by the way) yesterday and a new Varta LA 80. Having never done anything like this before, I guess I'm just looking for confirmation that my readings appear ok, before I bolt the passenger seat back down.

Screenshot was taken at approx. 14.20, I'm in the north west & it's a lovely sunny day. I am running just a Dometic cfx3 35l fridge and nothing else.

Out of interest, am I ever likely to see a P max of 100W (maybe later in the year)?

Thanks in advance...

Solar output.png
 
I use Xtar 100w panel which has industry leading Sunpower cells. Rated at 100W but that is conservative. I regularly see 100+W. This charges an Ecoflow Delta 2 power station.
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Does a removable panel like this plug on directly to the leisure battery to charge or do you need an additional battery? I've got a beach 6.1....
 
Does a removable panel like this plug on directly to the leisure battery to charge or do you need an additional battery? I've got a beach 6.1....
I'm no expert but I think an MPPT is needed in the chain. I use the panel to charge an Ecoflow which has a built in MPPT. I then use the EF to charge the leisure batteries directly. Most of my energy needs are met by the EF and reserve the leisure batteries to power the fridge and lights.
 
Does a removable panel like this plug on directly to the leisure battery to charge or do you need an additional battery? I've got a beach 6.1....
The XTAR SP100 has a working voltage of 17,6V according to the Amazon listing. Do not under any circumstances attach this directly to a battery as the voltage it supplies is too high - depending on the battery this could be quite dangerous.

You need a solar controller (PWM or MPPT) between the panel and the battery. As @Corradobrit says, a Power Station already has a solar controller built in and is not just a battery.
 
Ignore me.
I’ve read several threads and red indicator is on.
:cheers
Due to some perverse logic, red means dangerous to work on .... i.e. Live, Green means safe ... Off. Electricians know this but it seems a bit ar$e-about-face to a layman ... causing many people to be literally shocked when they realise red doesn't mean off. ;)
 
Glad I stumbled across this thread as I have just installed a 100W solar panel from SCS (great service by the way) yesterday and a new Varta LA 80. Having never done anything like this before, I guess I'm just looking for confirmation that my readings appear ok, before I bolt the passenger seat back down.

Screenshot was taken at approx. 14.20, I'm in the north west & it's a lovely sunny day. I am running just a Dometic cfx3 35l fridge and nothing else.

Out of interest, am I ever likely to see a P max of 100W (maybe later in the year)?

Thanks in advance...

View attachment 110098

Hi - late to the party I am! (Roger, SCS). In answer to your queastion, no, you'll never see a Pmax of 100W. 83-86w is about the best you'll ever see. The reason for this is that solar panels are rated in "ideal conditions" - which is full bright sun and... cold :) They are usually tested under artificial lighting.

This is why, when talking about performance on my website, I refer to max charging amps, as that's a figire I know to be accurate (around 6amps with a 100w flex panel).

Solar panels are indeed temperature sensitive, which seems mad, but that's just the way it is. Many years ago I had a stick on panel on a Bongo. I was getting 4 amps (smaller panel) on a hot sunny day. I drove under a tree, waited a few mins, drove out into the sun and got nearly 5 amps - for around 10 seconds - as the panel heated up, and it then dropped back to 4 amps :)
 
I will say the top spec expensive solar panels will produce their stated values and a bit.
My Solbian panel was amazing! Not cheap though cost around £650 with trade discount.
 
It doesn't work that way. To be CE certified they have to be tested for performance under the same conditions. "top spec" companies don't just give you more watts for your money, they give you the tested and certified watts for the panels they make. I've been working with solar for over 13 years now. Solar panels, all of them, are tested under the same conditions to ascertain their wattage. The only big difference is glass panels, which perform better in heat as they are able to dissipate it more easily, plus, by the nature of their construction, are more robust . They are still tested under the same conditions mind you.

My panels use SunPower solar cells - regarded as the best in the industry for efficiency and longevity. Solbian use..... SunPower Solar cells - the exact same cells. They are simply a solar cell packager, the same as my factory. The key differentiator then comes down to construction quality - materials and processes. You can't make panels with the same cells more efficient by manufacturing process, just smaller per watt. That's it.

Wattage rating is based on lab conditions - for ALL CE rated solar panels - they have to do this.

I'll take a Solbian 103w panel as an example. SP104, as its the closest to one of my 100w panels.

104w rated power
1109 x 546 dimension (605514 squ mm area) 0.6m sq, or 0.006/w
Vmp 18.2v
5.7 Amp Max power
18.2v x 5.7A = 103.74 (near enough 104 watts)

My 100w Solar panel
100W rated power
950x580 dimension (551000 squ mm area) 0.55m sq, or 0.0055/w
Vmp 23.9v
4.19 Amp max power
23.9v x 4.19A = 100.14 (near enough 100 watts)

The key differences are efficiency and price. The Solbian panels are more expensive and 1.3% more efficient per area, with a longer warranty. So you get a panel that is 1.3% smaller per watt. You still get the same wattage you pay for.

p.s. you'll see a lot mroe than 4.19 amps with my panels with an MPPT controller as it will take the voltage down to around 16v, and turn the rest of the "spare" voltage into amps.
 
So top spec is more efficient :thumb
Yes, but not on the wallet!

That said we have decent panels on our house, battery, no smart meter yet as been waiting for months for octopus to install....so at about noon each day we see our excess solar going to the national grid and we don’t get paid a penny!

But despite the above most recent electricity bill was £41.62 and £13.45 of that was standing charge and 5% vat. . So we used about £26 electric to run house + EV last month (basis Average 10k miles a year).

So I’m a fan of solar panels, whether they be on a van roof, house roof, factory roof or sat in a field!
 

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