T4 Cali fridge not working

ArcticMatt · Jul 3, 2016

Is the fridge the same with all westy models? Mine has just stopped working in my Exclusive. It was working fine for the first few days of our holiday but the battery ran low one night and it hasn't really worked since. We've made it home and I've got the van on mains to check it all again. The snowflake is on and I can hear the fridge buzzing away but its still not cold. I just wanted to check there wasn't a daft reset before I get the fridge out.

Cheers :thumb

sidepod · Jul 3, 2016

ArcticMatt said:
Is the fridge the same with all westy models? Mine has just stopped working in my Exclusive. It was working fine for the first few days of our holiday but the battery ran low one night and it hasn't really worked since. We've made it home and I've got the van on mains to check it all again. The snowflake is on and I can hear the fridge buzzing away but its still not cold. I just wanted to check there wasn't a daft reset before I get the fridge out.

Cheers

Stat/temp sensor ? Short it out to mimic max low temp.

ArcticMatt · Jul 4, 2016

sidepod said:
Stat/temp sensor ? Short it out to mimic max low temp.

Just shorted it out and left it running now. I ran the self test before to make sure the compressor was working and that's showing 4.5a at first and then drops to about 3.5 which sounds about right. The fan and compressor seem to be running ok

ArcticMatt · Jul 4, 2016

I've also noticed in the settings that mines set for two batteries when it's only got the one. I think the last owner must have had one somewhere an removed it along with the solar gubbins he took off. Would this make much of a difference?

sidepod · Jul 4, 2016

Possibly as the fridge has a 10.5v drop out setting.

If it is the sensor we have Intel for sourcing replacement units.
I carry one onboard incase of failure in the field.

ArcticMatt · Jul 4, 2016

sidepod said:
Possibly as the fridge has a 10.5v drop out setting.

If it is the sensor we have Intel for sourcing replacement units.
I carry one onboard incase of failure in the field.

Good idea for carrying a spare.

I've translated the tests from this guide:
http://www.westfaliat4.info/WestfaliaT4CompessorFridgeControlWM.pdf

Ive measured the temp sensor resistance and thats just over 500ohm which corresponds with the ambient temperature. Im still trying to work out the other tests it mentions (some bits get lost in translation). Can these fridges just simply run out of gas?

sidepod · Jul 4, 2016

Yes they can. There is a recharge valve I think?

I've had similar "ghost" failures in the past. I just jiggle the sensor inside the fridge and it works again. One day I'll get around to changing the sensor.

If the sensor is frigged out and calling for Lo temp then the compressor should do its thing ?

ajdowson · Sep 16, 2018

Hi having trouble with my 91 westy fridge. This is a great source of info and tried lots of the stuff above and the links.

Fridge won't run on mains or battery, but when driving does occasionally work (lose connection....?)

Been inside the gubbins, I have a Danfoss controller. All connections seem fine.

I have shorted out the T & C terminals and this makes the compressor run - and cool down. So the compressor seems OK - tried the Penguin video test and got no short between the 4 compressor terminals and case and all inter pin resistances under 5 ohm - though one was at 4ohm - is that a sign of an issue?

Before I spend £174 on a new controller at...

http://www.penguinfrigo.co.uk/shop/product/436/

....could it be just the thermostat? How should I test this - is this just a (temp) variable resistance between pins T & C? How do you remove the stat from the fridge? Is this is fridge out job?

--

Van has two brand new AGM batteries 2x100AH, fully charged. Fridge didn't work with the previous one either, though fridge problem did seem to coincide with the old battery going down hill.

sidepod · Sep 16, 2018

Hmmm interesting. First thoughts are it’s something to do with the overhead control panel. If it’s running and cooling when you short out T and C then it’s prob not the fridge.

Disconnect at the fridge and test for a switched live supply at the connector when you’ve selected “on” at the overhead panel. This will prove the switching etc.

Stat is a fridge out job.
That said, it’s easy. It comes out from below not the top.
Remove the cover panel to access it.
Remove and move aside the split charge relay also the charger unit.
Remove 12mm mount bolts on the right hand side, accessible from the left hand cupboard.
Remove cover panel fixing brackets.
Fridge should slip down and forward.

Stat can be checked by connecting a new one to the controller and just carefully running it into the fridge under the lid.

Good luck and please update your findings :thumb

ajdowson · Sep 16, 2018

Doh - if it was OK before it may not be now as I managed to short C to ground. This made a rather ominous shorting sound and putting T & C together no longer starts the compressor.......

Kicking myself as it was a freak accident of a wire that I though was connected to T was not and that end was touching the seat rail.

Thanks for info on removing fridge!

ajdowson · Sep 29, 2018

Just trying a Penguin replacement controller.

It looks like the D and T are the wires from the thermostat - so do I connect the D to the "C" spade on the new controller for the thermostat?

Seems logical.

ajdowson · Sep 29, 2018

No luck. No controller doesn't even fire up the compressor.

The snowflake symbol is not flashing anymore though in the control panel. Mmm.

How does the front controller "control" the temp and whether the frdige is on/off - does it just adjust the resistance of the thermostat loop somehow?

Does it matter that the penguin controller is different to the danfoss for connections D & C?

mrcheesbrough · Sep 30, 2018

ajdowson said:
No luck. No controller doesn't even fire up the compressor.

The snowflake symbol is not flashing anymore though in the control panel. Mmm.

How does the front controller "control" the temp and whether the frdige is on/off - does it just adjust the resistance of the thermostat loop somehow?

Does it matter that the penguin controller is different to the danfoss for connections D & C?