T6 coolant leaking

[Poobarr]

Hi everyone

We seem to have a major issue on our VW California 2017 it’s the 204 brake horsepower TwinTurbo 4 motion. The vehicle was in for a serve oil filter change, about a week later or so I used the heater. Then we had a coolant leak. The fault was diagnosed as the EGR valve completely self-destructed. The EGR was replaced along with some of the connections and the engine was drained of the coolant. The parts used with VW parts. The cali then ran fine and engine pulled as normal. Subsequently the vehicle still does not hold coolant….

The engine seems to run fine but the coolant is draining. There does not seem to be any obvious leaks on the ground, so I’m presuming the coolant is going back into the engine?

Has anyone come across this before? The garage has had the vehicle in twice but doesn’t seem to be getting any further forward (awkward as the garage is run by a mate). I have another friend who owns another garage who is happy to look at it but I am now considering sending it to VW. Any help would be greatly appreciated

 

[pchmlk]

Sounds frustrating. If there’s definitely no leaks externally (can be leaking and evaporating) then logically it can only really be going into the oil or ‘burning’ off - surprised a garage can’t establish this.

 

[Poobarr]

We pressured the cooling system for hrs ,no leaks , driven 40miles left over night , no loss of coolant driven another 20miles no loss of coolant . I drove it home no lights on next morning bang loss of coolant When we first looked with the lights egr pipe off that goes back to inlet full of coolant , pressurised coolant system bubbles coming out of that pipe . Then when egr removed capped it off, filled with coolant and used air to confirm it was broken. Cleaned out , changed oil and filter which should have been the end of it. So we need to check egr pipes to see if coolant has entered there again and if it has the only way that can get there is via the egr (which we know old one to have been at fault as bench test proved) that’s new (could still be broken), or via exhaust which can only be a turbo fault (never seen a turbo cause that although they are water cooled ) or a crack in the cylinder head/block that only opens up when cold because if the head gasket had gone that bad to do that it would display other symptoms all the time. Of course this all depends on if there is coolant back in the engine which we don’t know at this stage.

 

[Betsycalifornia]

Was the vehicle pressure tested when hot and cold? I only ask as the water pump can leak at the bearing when the metal contracts if they’re worn and are fine when hot, they leak fluid out only easy way to see it is with ultra violet dye and light. It’ll fail when hot as well soon if that’s the issue.

 

[Poobarr]

Was the vehicle pressure tested when hot and cold? I only ask as the water pump can leak at the bearing when the metal contracts if they’re worn and are fine when hot, they leak fluid out only easy way to see it is with ultra violet dye and light. It’ll fail when hot as well soon if that’s the issue.

Good question I’ll ask. Thank you

 

[Poobarr]

Sounds frustrating. If there’s definitely no leaks externally (can be leaking and evaporating) then logically it can only really be going into the oil or ‘burning’ off - surprised a garage can’t establish this.

Thanks for replying. The engine was driving with no sign of smoke once the new EGR was fitted. Also the loss of coolant happened overnight

 

[Poobarr]

Hi update on this. I have had two EGRs fail in the last month. Vehicle loses coolant then shuts down engine. I am now thinking that the only solution (as the engine seems ok) is to remove the EGR and DPF. The vehicle has 70k on the clock and is great otherwise. Can I have your thoughts please?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WelshGas]

Hi update on this. I have had two EGRs fail in the last month. Vehicle loses coolant then shuts down engine. I am now thinking that the only solution (as the engine seems ok) is to remove the EGR and DPF. The vehicle has 70k on the clock and is great otherwise. Can I have your thoughts please?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The EGR system has 2 components, the valve and the cooler. When deleting the EGR the valve is disabled or blanked off. You still have the cooler element in circuit.
Also removing either EGR or DPF are basically MOT failures if detected and would also void Insurance.
Could also cause problems with resale .
But your decision in the end.

 

[Poobarr]

Hmmm after looking around that’s the thought process I came to, which is not ideal and I’m not proceeding on that basis. I guess I’ll have to bite the bullet and get it repaired and then look at either keeping it and driving it on long journeys only and replacing the EGR valve/cleaning regularly. Or selling it and getting another van/camper without these issues - which doesn’t seem possible as they are all under euro 6 emissions rules.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk