Today's top tip

DaveB · Feb 13, 2018

Before a long trip try and get each wheel off and back on again using a decent jack. I had a puncture in Scotland yesterday and the Vw jack in the T6 is nowhere near solid enough to allow you to give a stuck wheel some gentle persuasion from behind.

I'm getting a new tyre on tomorrow and having all the others checked at the same time.

Annik · Feb 13, 2018

Totally agree, I always call VW Assist and let them do it.

andyinluton · Feb 13, 2018

Ive had all 4 wheels off in the last 2 weeks to do the brakes, the Dakar alloys that I've currently got are a very tight fit over the hub & took a lot of shifting - ie hit with a sledge hammer, they were last off only six months ago & are coated with copaslip. I wouldn't dream of attempting it at the roadside.

WelshGas · Feb 14, 2018

Strange this. Both me, using the supplied jack, and my local garages tyrefitter have had no problem taking my 17" Thunders off. No grease etc.
Now mine is in daily use and relatively high milage/year.
I wonder if the vehicles with these problems are laid up for any period of time. Even 1 or 2 months in the same position could allow this bi-metallic corrosion to take hold.

DaveB · Feb 14, 2018

I don't use it daily and it is on a sloping drive so I suspect it could be down to lay up. Having said that it is usually used every few weeks and the VW assist guy said he'd had to sort loads of these and just laughs at the pathetic jack.

bigmac77 · Feb 14, 2018

My Cali is used daily 10k miles per year, I switch to winter tyres on steel rims from early December until March. The alloy wheels with summer tyres are only on for 8 months but they are always stuck fast to the hubs and I have to hit them from behind with a giant mallet to get them off. I have tried copper grease on the face on the hub but it makes no difference. Steels always come off easily but the are only on for 4 months.

I could take the alloys off midway through the summer but I can’t be bothered.

I have no problem with the supplied jack but I use it regularly so maybe experience counts.

andyinluton · Feb 14, 2018

Mines used daily - the 18" Dakars are a tight fit over the hubs, the 16" standard alloys didn't stick & the steels don't either.

I don't have a problem actually using the jack supplied jack, its just theres no way I'm getting under the van or hitting the wheels when thats all thats holding it up.

My preference is a decent trolly jack to get it up & a strategically placed axle stand to make sure it stays up.

Shadrack · Apr 10, 2018

After coming across this thread last week I decided to check how easy it is to replace a wheel with the supplied jack, box spanner and security socket.
I am so glad I did this in the comfort of my own garage.

The Jack ok, is useable and would be ok in an emergency. (I decided to use my trolly jack for this exercise) Took a while to discover how the little centre hub cap was removed. (So that’s what the little wire thing in the kit is for).
The wheel spanner is a joke. No chance of undoing a wheel bolt. As for using the key to remove the locking wheel bolt, it just tries to twist off the security bolt.
I tried with my ratchet handle and a long 19mm socket. Not slipping off now but so tight nothing was going to move it.
I now decided to try my breaker bar. Some success but quite a bit of effort was still needed. For ease I finished removing bolts with a hammer gun.
Now with all bolts removed this is were the wheel would now be lifted away from the hub. No chance. The wheels are truly welded on. With the help of a rubber mallet and vigorous pulling at the wheel it finally came free. (Heavy too)
If I had been caught out later at night in the middle of nowhere in the rain possibly I would have been right in the mire. That’s if I had not pulled the van off the flimsy jack with the rigorous efforts to remove the wheel.
I ask.... why do I need a spare wheel?.. I could never be able to use it, or even worse, killed in the act of trying to use it. (Maybe a bit dramatic that bit)

I cleaned surfaces and a light smearing of copper slip on all mating surfaces. I have added a breaker bar with a long 19mm socket to the tool kit.

It’s not just VW, I have had situations like this in a past life that needed similar treatments.
It was reading this thread that jogged my memory to check the camper.
So big thanks again for this thread.
I did spend a couple of hours over the weekend freeing up the wheels. But an exercise that was well worth doing. I have even added a few pairs of gloves and some bin liners(to work off) to the tool kit. (Don’t forget some kind of light)
Thanks again...

Jabberwocky · Apr 10, 2018

Shadrack said:
After coming across this thread last week I decided to check how easy it is to replace a wheel with the supplied jack, box spanner and security socket.
I am so glad I did this in the comfort of my own garage.

The Jack ok, is useable and would be ok in an emergency. (I decided to use my trolly jack for this exercise) Took a while to discover how the little centre hub cap was removed. (So that’s what the little wire thing in the kit is for).
The wheel spanner is a joke. No chance of undoing a wheel bolt. As for using the key to remove the locking wheel bolt, it just tries to twist off the security bolt.
I tried with my ratchet handle and a long 19mm socket. Not slipping off now but so tight nothing was going to move it.
I now decided to try my breaker bar. Some success but quite a bit of effort was still needed. For ease I finished removing bolts with a hammer gun.
Now with all bolts removed this is were the wheel would now be lifted away from the hub. No chance. The wheels are truly welded on. With the help of a rubber mallet and vigorous pulling at the wheel it finally came free. (Heavy too)
If I had been caught out later at night in the middle of nowhere in the rain possibly I would have been right in the mire. That’s if I had not pulled the van off the flimsy jack with the rigorous efforts to remove the wheel.
I ask.... why do I need a spare wheel?.. I could never be able to use it, or even worse, killed in the act of trying to use it. (Maybe a bit dramatic that bit)

I cleaned surfaces and a light smearing of copper slip on all mating surfaces. I have added a breaker bar with a long 19mm socket to the tool kit.

It’s not just VW, I have had situations like this in a past life that needed similar treatments.
It was reading this thread that jogged my memory to check the camper.
So big thanks again for this thread.
I did spend a couple of hours over the weekend freeing up the wheels. But an exercise that was well worth doing. I have even added a few pairs of gloves and some bin liners(to work off) to the tool kit. (Don’t forget some kind of light)
Thanks again...

Thanks for sharing your experience. My Cali is just a year old. No punctures and no other dramas causing me to remove any of the wheels so I have no idea how welded my wheels are to the hubs. You have prompted me to do something about this. If the weather is good I will target this weekend for this job. That said I am a little worried about these stories of useless jack and weak/inadequate wheel brace.
I already have a breaker bar, long 19mm socket and a torque wrench in my tool kit but am a little concerned about the jack. I really do not fancy using the VW bit of kit even at home so will use a trolly jack I have. It is rated at two tonnes. Is this sufficient?? Also what load spreader did you use with your jack? Mine has a small (2" diameter) flat PU pad.

Shadrack · Apr 10, 2018

Jabberwocky said:
Thanks for sharing your experience. My Cali is just a year old. No punctures and no other dramas causing me to remove any of the wheels so I have no idea how welded my wheels are to the hubs. You have prompted me to do something about this. If the weather is good I will target this weekend for this job. That said I am a little worried about these stories of useless jack and weak/inadequate wheel brace.
I already have a breaker bar, long 19mm socket and a torque wrench in my tool kit but am a little concerned about the jack. I really do not fancy using the VW bit of kit even at home so will use a trolly jack I have. It is rated at two tonnes. Is this sufficient?? Also what load spreader did you use with your jack? Mine has a small (2" diameter) flat PU pad.

Don’t be too worried or concerned, if doubts add an axle stand for reassurance.
Extra sturdy support is always recommended rather than rely on just a single jack.
Your 2ton jack is only raising one corner so is more than capable. I normally put a square of solid rubberised material on the cup of my trolly jack to protect bodywork.
I used the rear jacking point to raise the back corner. The front I found a choice of sturdy lifting points for a trolly jack.
I don’t like to say, it goes without saying.. but level ground, in gear and hand brake on is a must.
(Something we don’t have if out and about and puncture.. So caution is needed)
In my garage I have some big blocks (railway sleeper pieces) I can quickly slide under if any serious time spent under a vehicle.

I do think it’s a worthwhile exercise...

Take care...

Jabberwocky · Apr 10, 2018

Shadrack said:
Don’t be too worried or concerned, if doubts add an axle stand for reassurance.
Extra sturdy support is always recommended rather than rely on just a single jack.
Your 2ton jack is only raising one corner so is more than capable. I normally put a square of solid rubberised material on the cup of my trolly jack to protect bodywork.
I used the rear jacking point to raise the back corner. The front I found a choice of sturdy lifting points for a trolly jack.
I don’t like to say, it goes without saying.. but level ground, in gear and hand brake on is a must.
(Something we don’t have if out and about and puncture.. So caution is needed)
In my garage I have some big blocks (railway sleeper pieces) I can quickly slide under if any serious time spent under a vehicle.
.
I do think it’s a worthwhile exercise...

Take care...

Thanks for your reassurance.

sidepod · Apr 11, 2018

Just back the nuts off then jump in the van and nudge it back and forth a few times, turn the steering if the fronts need changing. This will free off the hubs before you jack it up.

Alan · Apr 11, 2018

sidepod said:
Just back the nuts off then jump in the van and nudge it back and forth a few times, turn the steering if the fronts need changing. This will free off the hubs before you jack it up.

I can endorse above method
Best done before you have a puncture (avoiding tyre damage)

Alan

T6 CFO · Apr 11, 2018

All I would add to the above is get yourself a 12volt compressor so that if at all possible you can inflate the tyre sufficient to get yourself to a garage or at least a safe flat spot. That was my plan which did get foiled when I had a blowout and the tyre was shredded. Impossible to change on on my own as I was on a severe slope and VW assist were required. Sod’s law prevailed.

Mike

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

mccp · Apr 11, 2018

Consider whether you need security bolts on the wheels. Since 2002 I have replaced mine with standard bolts after having a bad experience with one that seemed to be made from cheese. On the new Cali, Listers gave me the bolts for free - apparently the vans come from the factory with standard bolts and the dealer adds the security bolts. Consequently, their workshop has a box with hundreds of nearly new bolts in it.

I don't worry about my driving wheels being pinched because I park off road at home. I do have a sparesafe, although I'm not completely convinced I need it; I don't worry about the security bolt in the sparesafe because it's not torqued up as much as the driving wheels. It's also less likely to suffer from corrosion because it's tightened against a steel bracket rather than an alloy wheel.

I'm still on the look out for a good quality bottle jack, but I'm beginning to think that the intersection of my requirements is an empty set:

2+ tonne capacity
light and compact
short enough to fit under jacking points with a flat tyre
extends high enough to change the tyre

So far I've managed three out of four.

Hotel California · Apr 11, 2018

Here's a thread with lots of tips and a video showing how to change a wheel (in ideal conditions)
https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/wheel-changing.16241/#post-179893

T6 CFO · Apr 11, 2018

mccp said:
Consider whether you need security bolts on the wheels. Since 2002 I have replaced mine with standard bolts after having a bad experience with one that seemed to be made from cheese. On the new Cali, Listers gave me the bolts for free - apparently the vans come from the factory with standard bolts and the dealer adds the security bolts. Consequently, their workshop has a box with hundreds of nearly new bolts in it.

I don't worry about my driving wheels being pinched because I park off road at home. I do have a sparesafe, although I'm not completely convinced I need it; I don't worry about the security bolt in the sparesafe because it's not torqued up as much as the driving wheels. It's also less likely to suffer from corrosion because it's tightened against a steel bracket rather than an alloy wheel.

I'm still on the look out for a good quality bottle jack, but I'm beginning to think that the intersection of my requirements is an empty set:

2+ tonne capacity

light and compact

short enough to fit under jacking points with a flat tyre

extends high enough to change the tyre

So far I've managed three out of four.

Agree on the security bolts. One less thing to deal with. Also struggling for the bottle jack I want. When you hit 4/4 let me know

Mike

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

briwy · Apr 15, 2018

The VW security bolts are waste of time. Nowhere near enough depth to the splines which is why the tool slips out. We have a set of McGuard ones which are fine, good depth on the spline. You can get wheel nut braces with extendable handles which generally work well and are a lot stronger than the VW item.
Re bottle jacks. A lot of the small bottle jacks only have a small round bit on the top end. IMO this is not safe on the Cali plate type jacking point as it could easily slip off. you need something like this with slots in which actually fit onto the plate. This is just to illustrate the principle, not a recommendation for the jack.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0015NULPU/?tag=eliteelect-21
Also, check that the jack has enough stroke to actually lift the wheel off the ground. Most of them have a screw thread bottom piece and then the actual lifting bit.
On our van ( air suspension set to the standard ride height) the distance from the ground to the jacking plate is approx 10in front and 11ins rear. Lifting height required to get the wheel suitably clear is about 4.5in front and 5.5in rear.
We carry a foot square piece of 12mm ply to spread the load and a 3in block to lift the jack up so there is enough stroke left to raise the van enough.