What's the tyre life on a California

[flyingQ]

Our Michelin Agillis 51 did 28,000 miles on the Pan-Am route including much wheel spinning (ASR off for best results) over loose rocks and gravel, to say nothing of running at 25PSI over several hundred miles - they still have 3.5/4mm left!

 

[caligraphy]

I don't go in for the big brands much as mostly it's just paying for a name. I put some Hifly Super 2000s on the front and they are at least as good as the original tyres for a fraction of the price. They're Chinese and not well known so they're much cheaper. Chinese roads are a lot harder on vans than in Europe so I expect they're up to the job.

Grip-wise they're great and give a very nice ride. Halfords recommended them to me but they can also be found online for not much more than £50 each (before fitting).

Earlier posts amused me by talking about driving a California slowly to protect the environment. At non-motorway speeds with a very heavy vehicle it's braking and the subsequent acceleration which uses the most fuel. Slow drivers can use a lot more than faster drivers if the former are continually braking or driving in a low gear. The minimum speed needed to maintain the highest gear (safely) should be the target. Longer engine life too.

If Cali owners cared that much for the environment they'd ditch their heavy vehicle, take to a tent and travel on their bikes. Let's not kid ourselves we're greening the planet by driving a Cali.

 

[mountainman]

Many thanks. Its the 255/45/R18s a tyre/wheel size that came with the Berghaus variant which seems to limit tyre choice. Can't actually find a Hifly to fit. There seems to be quite a bit less choice with the 255s.

One might think that with all that tyre width, you'd get better wear. Not so, it would seem.

Perhaps I'm just not sufficiently cognisant of the van's weight and driving it too much like a car. Having said that, for pure economy I try to back off a bit and have got 40mpg if I really try. However, my average is 32mpg. Even so, I don't think I'm hammering it!

 

[Sandpit]

Bought my 2012 Cali 180SE manual about a year ago with 12,000 on the clock fronts had been put to back. Now with 26,500 on the clock after a well loaded euro trip they need changing 17inch thunder alloys shod with Dunlop sport 01 235x55x17 any one recommending anything else ride can be sharp on poor condition uk roads.

 

[McMeefia]

I was advised not to go up to 18 inch rims by the tyre fitter as the van will chew through them in no time. The compound is not as tough as on the commercial tyres.
He was right!
For comparison, the van came with duravis tyres on 16 inch rims and did 18,000 before the fronts needed replacement.
I have got about 13,000 miles out of current tyres which is not bad given that there has been a lot of town driving and maneuvering to get on the drive at home.
(About 3mm at the shoulders and close to the wear bar in the middle so I need to take it easy with free air.)
They are Goodyear Eagle F1 A2 255/45/18.
A bit cheaper than the continentals and they do as well in the reviews.
I wish I had switched them round as the rears hardly look worn at all.

 

[mountainman]

Given the huge mileage that some seems to be getting from a set of tyres, I think there is definitely an issue with the sort of tyres one can get for 18" rims. In the end I got 17,500 miles out of my Contisport Contact 255/45/R18s. I now have Uniroyal Rain 3 255/45/R18s (£715 fitted) and it looks like these could be similar. I have just swapped them front to back after 9,000 miles. These tyres are quite high tech, very light with so called Shark Tooth technology and a weird tread. See pic. The one thing I will say for them, they really do grip in the rain yes, but they are also are an order of magnitude better on snow than the Contisports. The latter is a relief cos the Contisports were positively useless. The bottom line, 17,500 miles really isn't good.

 

[GrannyJen]

I got 1800 miles out of two of my goodyear winter tyres ... before something large and sharp on a highland road ripped them to shreds

My Conti 17" M'n'S were 11,000 miles old when I took them off for the winter and I would say not even halfway through the tread.

My two remaining goodyears have only done 5,000 miles so cannot really compare.

 

[jts46]

Kumho tyres 25000 on fronts, am very pleased.

 

[mountainman]

Ah! It's you again! I thought you were taking the p*&$ when you referred to a "Moo Valve" in answer to an earlier question of mine on a different subject. I now discovered that the 'mooing' sound from under the dash is indeed universally referred to as the "Moo valve". Still haven't fixed it.
I now take GannyJen much more seriously.

 

[jts46]

Sorry on backs as well

 

[Aleve11]

I had 19200 on the clock when I changed my Dunlop types that came with the van so replaced with Dunlop again from tyershopper £227 the pair including vip discount

 

[2CV67]

After 2 years & 36157km without switching tyres round, my status is:
Left front - 71% worn - projected life 50700km.
Right front - 81% worn - projected life 44200km.
Left rear - 39% worn - projected life 92500km.
Right rear - 43% worn - projected life 84000km.
Spare - unused.

This is with winter tyres used all year round...
Bridgestone Blizzak LM-18C 215/65 R16C.

Comments:
Measured at 6 points per tyre with a digital tread gauge & allowing for 1.5mm minimum depth.
Extremely gentle driving, obviously!
Rights wear surprisingly more than lefts - presumably camber? (driving in Europe).
Bridgestone seem to have replaced the LM-18C by significantly different LM-32C so I will need to find an LM-18C on a shelf somewhere to use with my unused spare in 8000km!

 

[2CV67]

Finally changed the 2 fronts at 63,050 km which I think is not bad, especially for winter tyres used all year round.
They had about 2,000 km left in them - not enough for another trip.
Found exactly the same Bridgestone Blizzak LM-18C 215/65 R16C tyres for "only" 98€90 each with free delivery to a local garage + fitting & balancing for 12€ each.
Bridgestone tell me the LM-18 is an OEM tyre for VW T5 whereas the LM-32 is generic.

Rears have projected life of 130,000 km!

Satisfied!

 

[DavidofHook]

I had Bridgstones on my T5 which is now just over 4 years form new.
I noticed that the fronts were always skidding when I started which is strange because I am (or thought I was) a careful driver going for the mpg's. I was not surprised therefore that the fronts had to be replaced at 18000 miles.
I got Michelin Agilis which are, I think, a van tyre. They are much better to drive and do not skid when you take off and, surprise surprise at 9000 they hardly look touched.
The Original Bridgestones are still on the back with seemingly plenty of tread left at 27000 miles.

 

[WelshGas]

Always change mine at minimum 3 mm depth and as it is a 4Motion, all 4 at the same time. The original " low resistance " tyres from VW were changed at close to 21,000 miles as it was December / winter and the tyres were approaching 4mm. Mine is a daily driver and driven.
I now have Goodyear Vector 4Seasons and after 13,000 miles on these tyres the average tread depth is 6+ mm so I think I might be exceeding 25,000 miles this time.

I don't swop tyres around.

http://www.3mmtyres.co.uk/download.ashx?File=a3Poster2.pdf

 

[JohnnyP]

Always change mine at minimum 3 mm depth and as it is a 4Motion, all 4 at the same time. The original " low resistance " tyres from VW were changed at close to 21,000 miles as it was December / winter and the tyres were approaching 4mm. Mine is a daily driver and driven.
I now have Goodyear Vector 4Seasons and after 13,000 miles on these tyres the average tread depth is 6+ mm so I think I might be exceeding 25,000 miles this time.

I don't swop tyres around.

http://www.3mmtyres.co.uk/download.ashx?File=a3Poster2.pdf

If you switch to all weather tyres like the Goodyear vector from Summer tyres (contivan contact 200 on at present ) can 2 tyres be changed at a time rather than all 4 ( 2 wheel drive ). I want to change to vectors but I would prefer to change the front 2 tyres first ( if they wear quicker than rear as expected ) and then swap the rear later when they are at the end of their ife. For example would the difference in grip between front and rear have the potential to be a safety risk?

 

[WelshGas]

If you switch to all weather tyres like the Goodyear vector from Summer tyres (contivan contact 200 on at present ) can 2 tyres be changed at a time rather than all 4 ( 2 wheel drive ). I want to change to vectors but I would prefer to change the front 2 tyres first ( if they wear quicker than rear as expected ) and then swap the rear later when they are at the end of their ife. For example would the difference in grip between front and rear have the potential to be a safety risk?

If you have 2 wheel drive then no problem changing one axle at a time. However, there is advice from the Tyre Trade and the AA, http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/safety/car-tyres.html
that the new tyres should be fitted to the rear. Your choice obviously, but that is what I used to do on 2 wheel drive vehicles.

 

[Loz]

New at the back has been consumer advise for a few years now as tests have shown that less serious accidents occur from understeer accidents than oversteer ones

 

[JohnnyP]

If you have 2 wheel drive then no problem changing one axle at a time. However, there is advice from the Tyre Trade and the AA, http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice/safety/car-tyres.html
that the new tyres should be fitted to the rear. Your choice obviously, but that is what I used to do on 2 wheel drive vehicles.

Thanks Welshgas, Exactly the info I was looking for and I will follow the good advice. When the front tyres wear down I will put new Goodyear vectors on the rear and put the rear wheels on the front

 

[MattBW]

All season tyres here, 10500 miles 7mm tread on the back and over 6 on the front. I expect they will last quite a while.

 

[Teejay]

If you switch to all weather tyres like the Goodyear vector from Summer tyres (contivan contact 200 on at present ) can 2 tyres be changed at a time rather than all 4 ( 2 wheel drive ). I want to change to vectors but I would prefer to change the front 2 tyres first ( if they wear quicker than rear as expected ) and then swap the rear later when they are at the end of their ife. For example would the difference in grip between front and rear have the potential to be a safety risk?

As far as I know there is no law which states you have to do all four or even two at a time. Its a suggestion, or seen as good practice.

I tend to rotate mine when changing over to winters. Ass @Loz suggests going for understeer is seen as the safer option. Since when oversteering most often the best way to recover is more power!.

 

[Teejay]

As far as I know there is no law which states you have to do all four or even two at a time. Its a suggestion, or seen as good practice.

I tend to rotate mine when changing over to winters. Ass @Loz suggests going for understeer is seen as the safer option. Since when oversteering most often the best way to recover is more power!.

That's not a desctiption of @Loz btw it's supposed to be a single "s"

 

[T6 CFO]

As far as I know there is no law which states you have to do all four or even two at a time. Its a suggestion, or seen as good practice.

I tend to rotate mine when changing over to winters. Ass @Loz suggests going for understeer is seen as the safer option. Since when oversteering most often the best way to recover is more power!.

Simplest question can even get complicated. I've got a 4 Motion on order. Part and only part of the decision was as a result of my front wheel drive DSG Touran being a bit aggressive on the front tyres. Hopefully 4 wheel drive with normal 70/30 split will alleviate this.
I believe also I should change all 4 together but only relevant to 4 Motion.
My plan is to monitor depth closely and move them round when required.
Sure someone will correct me if I've got this wrong and that person will probably be Welsh


Mike

 

[Teejay]

Simplest question can even get complicated. I've got a 4 Motion on order. Part and only part of the decision was as a result of my front wheel drive DSG Touran being a bit aggressive on the front tyres. Hopefully 4 wheel drive with normal 70/30 split will alleviate this.
I believe also I should change all 4 together but only relevant to 4 Motion.
My plan is to monitor depth closely and move them round when required.
Sure someone will correct me if I've got this wrong and that person will probably be Welsh


Mike

I have a FWD XC60 and I change fronts to the back and always place the best of the 4 on the rear.
I will do the same when the 4Motion 204 turns up.

There is no legal requirement to change all 4 together, otherwise a puncture becomes VERY expensive.
It's all to do with balance/grip. Some places will only replace in pairs as a minimum Costco for instance. Smaller places will typically do what you ask/telll them to do. It's in the consumers hands, I normally change in pairs as a minimum.

 

[WelshGas]

Simplest question can even get complicated. I've got a 4 Motion on order. Part and only part of the decision was as a result of my front wheel drive DSG Touran being a bit aggressive on the front tyres. Hopefully 4 wheel drive with normal 70/30 split will alleviate this.
I believe also I should change all 4 together but only relevant to 4 Motion.
My plan is to monitor depth closely and move them round when required.
Sure someone will correct me if I've got this wrong and that person will probably be Welsh


Mike

WelshGas here. That's fine but I found the wear was pretty even front to rear.