GrannyJen
Super Poster
Lifetime VIP Member
Goodness, where to start.
Where are you camping?
There is a great campsite in Kemmel, about 7km from Ypres, it is just at the bottom of "mount Kemmel", a small hill that was desperately fought over for both sides would hold a commanding observation position. Equally there are restored bunkers and trenches nearby, a couple of nice bars in the village and an half-decent restaurant. Less crowded, less commercialised, than Ypres itself and the campsite gives you far more room for "camping-cars" than campingJeugdstation" in Ypres.
Messines Ridge and Wytschaete Ridge are both close by, driving around there gives a good idea of the desperate fighting that went on to hold Ypres (1st Battle), to defend Ypres (2nd) and the dreadful conditions of 3rd Ypres (Passendale). We will say nothing about 4th Ypres (Georgette)...!
The Menin gate and last post at 8pm is essential. For information on who may be visiting look up lastpost.be which gives you a list of what ceremonies and who visiting for each day.
Tyne Cot cemetry is terribly moving. Neither the Menin gate, with 52,000 names to the missing, or Thiepval, with 72,000 names, convey the horror and sacrifice more than Tyne Cot with it's 10, 200 headstones, the largest CWG anywhere. The headstones depict soberly and clinically the true cost of war. It is also only a couple of K from Passendale and the Passendale museum is excellent.
On the West side of Ypres, going off towards Dixmuude, is Essex farm cemetery. This is where the Canadian Doctor John McRae wrote in "Flanders fields" and the bunkers dug into the canal bank are still preserved. It was these bunkers that John McRae used as a forward casualty station.
Talking of Doctors, a visit to the grave of Noel Chavasse is recommended. It is on the way to Ypres from Poperinge, at New Brandhoeke cemetery, Vlamertinge. The cemetery is at the location of a forward field hospital where Noel Chavasse died of wounds, after courageously earning his second VC. For a 10 year old it is a connection to both Ypres and the Somme, where he earned his first VC (Guillemont). The headstone is unique in that it is the only one that carries the inscription of two VC's. If you ever approach Ypres from the A19 then two hundred yards from the interchange you go through a tiny hamlet called Wieltje. This is where Capt. Chavasse earned his 2nd VC, 3rd Ypres, attack on Zonnebeke with the Liverpool Scottish.
Churches are not normally for 10 y/olds but if in Ypres do visit St Georges Memorial church, just behind St Maarten's cathedral. The hassocks on every seat (253 if I remember correctly) are colourfully embroidered with commemorations to all the regiments that served at Ypres and the walls are adorned with plaques to various individuals and groups. There is also a terribly nice bust to Sir John French who did a terribly good job of making sure we nearly lost the place at the first battle.
I could go on for hours about the Ypres Salient, if you need any more or want to know any more then I suggest that for the sake of everyone else you pm me!
Further afield, popping just over the border into France, do visit La Coupole at Wizernes, just north of St Omer. A great place for a 10 y/old and just off the A26 to Calais. A huge concrete Dome for the launching of V2's, a fascinating history, a good old Dambuster 617 squadron story, a great museum and far more importantly for humanity a reminder of the inhumanity of the slave labour regime that built it. Every time I go there I just want to breath a sigh of relief at Europe's open borders and close member state co-operation, with or without the EU.
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) Thanks again, hope your trip goes well.
