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How to Fix Kitchen Tap and Water Pump Problem and solution.

To unscrew the tank lid I used two hammer shafts and an open ended spanner.
Place the wooden end of the hammer shafts on the tank lid 180 degrees apart and grip the two hammer heads with a single hand. I used my left hand as I am right-handed.
This forms a triangular shape with the shafts above the tank lid.
Then place the open ended spanner on one shaft as near to the lid as possible and rotate until the spanner makes contact with the other shaft, this provides sufficient torque to undo the lid.
Care point: Keep a nice tight grip on the hammer heads and apply downward pressure as you rotate the spanner.

Reverse the process to re-tighten the tank lid.

Good luck.
 
No water in my kitchen tap..!
5 amp fuse is ok.
Removed the pump and hooked it up to a 12 v supply and it worked. Water is coming out of the tap.
Measured the bare cabels coming from the tap (with tap started)(without the pump connected) and read 12 volt current.
Reconnected everything again (cabels from tap connected to the pump), but the pump isn't working. Now I measure only 0,8 volt...! The tap makes a click when I turn it on.
What is going on here?

(I have noticed the last months that the tap water is loosing pressure...and now no water at all).
 
Could be chalk or is it limescale ( google) in the tap or tubes
 
No water in my kitchen tap..!
5 amp fuse is ok.
Removed the pump and hooked it up to a 12 v supply and it worked. Water is coming out of the tap.
Measured the bare cabels coming from the tap (with tap started)(without the pump connected) and read 12 volt current.
Reconnected everything again (cabels from tap connected to the pump), but the pump isn't working. Now I measure only 0,8 volt...! The tap makes a click when I turn it on.
What is going on here?

(I have noticed the last months that the tap water is loosing pressure...and now no water at all).

Could be chalk or is it limescale ( google) in the tap or tubes

No, water is coming out of the tap when I connect the pump to 12 v.
The problem is that there is not enough current reaching the pump !?
 
Seems you are able to open it all up and DIY , just buy a new pump , not that big coast .
If your Cali a 2006 as i can see it has had 10 years ....
 
Seems you are able to open it all up and DIY , just buy a new pump , not that big coast .
If your Cali a 2006 as i can see it has had 10 years ....

But the pump is working so no point of replacing that :)

It seems like there is not enough current reaching the pump !? (0,8 volt)...
 
But the pump is working so no point of replacing that :)

So you think there's an electric failure...
But if the pump is old and worn could be it not builds enough pressure
 
So you think there's an electric failure...
But if the pump is old and worn could be it not builds enough pressure

Please read my text ;)
When I connect external 12 v directly to the pump its firing up and water is coming thru the tap (all normal). Therefor I guess there is no fault in the pump.

No water in my kitchen tap..!
5 amp fuse is ok.
Removed the pump and hooked it up to a 12 v supply and it worked. Water is coming out of the tap.
Measured the bare cabels coming from the tap (with tap started)(without the pump connected) and read 12 volt current.
Reconnected everything again (cabels from tap connected to the pump), but the pump isn't working. Now I measure only 0,8 volt...! The tap makes a click when I turn it on.
What is going on here?

(I have noticed the last months that the tap water is loosing pressure...and now no water at all).
 
Seems i missunderstoot
I you wrote " removed the pump....." I was thinking you had it out of the tank and had it working in a bucket or so to test without the lining of the hose to the tap on it so less presure needed ...
 
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I think you have answered your own question.
12v to pump = works
12v to tap
However when all connected you don't get 12v at the pump.

Tap has micro-switch.
There is a wiring loom from tap to pump.
Therefore I would be looking at the micro-switch and wiring loom.
What happens if you take the tap out of the electric circuit ie: 12v to the pump via the wiring loom. Does pump work properly?
If not the there must be a problem with loom. If pump does work the tap micro-switch needs looking at or replacing.
 
Yes, thankyou, that's logical it must be the micro-switch or wiring loom. I will look into that next weekend and report back here.
Also thanks to the topic starter and other people how have contributed to this thread. Nice pictures. Makes it much easier to dare fixing the problem by your self :)
 
Yes, it was the micro switch in the tap. Just dismounted the tap, opened it (pull the small lever straight out) cleaned it out a bit and then everything worked as normal :)

The micro switch is quite small and if you do this make sure to sit at a table with good light.

Like someone said, you can shortcut the connection to the tap under the sink to bypass the micro switch and start the water pump. If it do start, then it's the micro switch.

Thank you everybody :)
 
Yes, it was the micro switch in the tap. Just dismounted the tap, opened it (pull the small lever straight out) cleaned it out a bit and then everything worked as normal :)

The micro switch is quite small and if you do this make sure to sit at a table with good light.

Like someone said, you can shortcut the connection to the tap under the sink to bypass the micro switch and start the water pump. If it do start, then it's the micro switch.

Thank you everybody :)
Thank you for letting us know the outcome. :thumb
 
Great post and very informative, as a retailer of used California's we often have to deal with "no water," in our preparation and while under warranty. Usually 1 0f 4 items, fuse, micro switch in tap or most commonly the submersible pump has been left running and over heated. We recently had this issue for a customer in Bristol area under our warranty. The customer tried to have a go at fixing but was struggling so we suggested a VW Van Centre, thinking with their fault finding and "Master Tech," one hour or so and a pump and all sorted. VW Van Centre Swindon charged us £267 to deal with this, 2.9 hours labour after discount. We've queried it as we feel this is quite excessive and had an explanation that they only charged us 2.9 hours and the "Master Tech" actually clocked on for 3.49 hours. To fix a blown fuse and change a submersible water pump?? In contrast one of our customers had the same issue, took it to SMG Cowfold and was charged £53.64. What a difference, how difficult can a 12v water system be to fault find and repair. Needless to say we will reimburse our customer but do feel disappointed with VW Swindon Van Centre and their response to our query as I wouldn't feel comfortable charging this amount for a relatively simple fix. What do you think?
 
Nearly 3 hrs labour shocking I fixed mine myself £12.50 for a new pump job done
 
Great post and very informative, as a retailer of used California's we often have to deal with "no water," in our preparation and while under warranty. Usually 1 0f 4 items, fuse, micro switch in tap or most commonly the submersible pump has been left running and over heated. We recently had this issue for a customer in Bristol area under our warranty. The customer tried to have a go at fixing but was struggling so we suggested a VW Van Centre, thinking with their fault finding and "Master Tech," one hour or so and a pump and all sorted. VW Van Centre Swindon charged us £267 to deal with this, 2.9 hours labour after discount. We've queried it as we feel this is quite excessive and had an explanation that they only charged us 2.9 hours and the "Master Tech" actually clocked on for 3.49 hours. To fix a blown fuse and change a submersible water pump?? In contrast one of our customers had the same issue, took it to SMG Cowfold and was charged £53.64. What a difference, how difficult can a 12v water system be to fault find and repair. Needless to say we will reimburse our customer but do feel disappointed with VW Swindon Van Centre and their response to our query as I wouldn't feel comfortable charging this amount for a relatively simple fix. What do you think?

This is my issue exactly.

I'm from Norway, where the prices are even more mortal at the original VW mechanic. The problem is, very few other mechanics wants to touch the camper part of the van.

I understand they too "have to make a living", but honestly, the prices I've been estimated to fix several (what I regard as) small to medium issues are simply ridiculous. The water pump alone, they quoted twice what you mention.

Water pump, a clogged gas top, long life service, new locking mechanism front door and new leisure batteries would probably put me back £4000++ in total.

I would be willing to travel to Germany, or any other place within reasonable range, if I knew I could find some trustworthy mechanic at a reasonable price.
 
I (surprisingly) found a self-service/DIY garage close to where I live.

Going to give some of these a shot myself, I'll try to document as I go along.

Already ordered the pump of ebay.

Thanks to jeetu2k again for inspiration and description!
 
Ok guys, as promised, here's my DIY, inspired by jeetu2k.

Before I got the new pump from ebay, I bought a multimeter and checked that there was actually 12V at the pump, like jeetu2k explained.

As it turns out, the reason why my pump was broke, was some plastic (wrapping stuff) stuck in it.

So beware when you fill your tank!



This is the exact pump i got:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CARAVAN-MOTORHOME-12V-SUBMERSIBLE-WATER-PUMP-COMET-VIP-PLUS-20L-PER-MINUTE-NEW-/181992652364?nma=true&si=WZUPJ26eGq9g1uVrSKfgPiSfT%2FQ%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


Here are the tools I used:

To create tool for water tank lid opening:
  • Regular broomstick
  • Hex Bolts M8 x 45mm
  • Drill (only drilled 6mm hole to make them stick!)
  • Wrench for bolts
  • Duct tape
Warning! The first attempt broke the tool, so I had to create a new one wrapped in duct tape (for reinforcement). That's how stuck the freaking lid is...

For the rest:

  • Small flat screwdriver
  • Diagonal pliers

20160710_142716.jpg



Step by step:

  1. Unplugging the old pump and water level gauge

    Pretty straight forward, unclip the two connectors.


  2. Removing water tank lid

    Not easy, as mine was more or less stuck. Had to make two versions of the tool to finally force it open.

    As you can see, the one without duct tape simply broke.

    20160710_141854.jpg


  3. Cut wires from old pump and keep connector

    Remember to keep some extra wires, so you have enough to connect a terminal block to it (grey plastic thingy i've attached at the end there)

    20160710_133122.jpg


  4. Loosen water hose
  5. Remove old pump

    Old vs. new pump - exactly same size and details.

    oldnewpump.jpg

  6. Place new pump and connect water hose
  7. Connect wires

    This is a little tricky, especially getting the new power cables from inside the water tank and out. This is because there is a rubber sealer thing there, that is very tight.

    I just removed it, created a little "fishing line" with some of the cable from the old pump, and fished up the new cable, then attached the rubber sealer thing.

    Rubber thing right bottom corner, new pump in place
    20160710_135830.jpg

    Connecting the wires
    20160710_140704.jpg

    More duct tape.. just because.
    20160710_140812.jpg

    Ready to go!
    20160710_141230.jpg
 
Excellent post took me about 20mins to make tool and get lid off, ordered new pump think it's blocked with lime scale. Thanks everybody for pics and eBay link.
 
I am about to investigate the problem with our tap/water pump and depending on the issue attempt to fix it. If it seems to complicated I may need to get professional help to fix the problem. As I've never had to repair any of the camping equipment for our van I'm looking for any recommendations on where to get the repairs done. We are based in the Reading area.
 
Went to Carfest North ( were any of you there - it was a fantastic weekend ! ) and no water :(

Used this thread to test and then replace the pump - thanks very much, very useful :thumb

Really good service from the supplier of the pump - the whole exercise cost me an hour of my time and £19.45 :)
 
Been cleaning out the limescale from the tap today , also some small particles seem to go thru the pump in to the tap....
Afther screwing of the black end cap on the tap , inside looked like this .
Four years old Cali , and to me not that much used.
image.jpeg
On the out come almost 50% was stuck with limescale

image.jpeg
Cleaned things out , 2 min job , need to do this more often.
Could cause trouble with the pump as the pressure will build up due to the blocking.
 
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Pretty new the california camper, when i flick the tap up and turn the switch on there is no response. Cant even hear the water pump going, would this be due to the switch in the tap being broken?? Anyone can teach me how to get the tap open?
 
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