2021 – Finland and Norway (Sept/Oct 2021)

[kurienp]

Ok, where do I start. It has been over a year since this trip. Only now got down to writing it up … but some sweet memories that will never fade. Lots of driving, but lots of cool places visited and enjoyed seeing a side of unspoilt nature in all its raw glory.

Who do I blame for triggering this wild plan – @Niborn ! Ha ha! A big thanks to Robin for sowing the seeds with an invite for a winter trip and of course, his fantastic pics of the Northern Lights, the Aurora Borealis … and, yes, I had to see them. Then was born the idea of taking the Cali to Norway. Oh wait, going that far, why not include Finland as well – so Finland and Norway (and almost included Sweden as well, but time did not permit).

Our 2017 2-week Christmas Market Tour https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/2017-europe-christmas-market-tour.22385/, our 2019 Scotland Trip (again about 2 weeks) (yet to write up a trip log). Our 2020 2-week trip to Portugal https://vwcaliforniaclub.com/threads/portugal-2020.37198/, … but just adding 5 days set aside and do nothing but wait to see the Aurora Borealis, this would be a 3 week trip - the longest trip that we have undertaken in the Cali.

To reduce driving distances and to save some time, a multi-modal trip plan was hatched – road, train and ferry (have not tried to take the Cali on a flight as yet ).
The route looked something like this



The draft plan looked something like this:

1. Day 0,1 - Take the Channel Tunnel across late in the evening as we usually do, rest up somewhere along the motorway in Belgium, and next morning drive up to Travemunde in north Germany
2. Day 2 - Take a ferry from Travemunde to Helsinki (29 hours eeek!)
3. Day 3 – 5 – Stay and look around Helsinki
4. Day 6 – Car Train from Helsinki to Rovaniemi (Santa Claus Village) with the Cali on the train (a unique experience)
5. Day 7 … onwards
   1. Meander up to Nordkapp and no return until I see the northern lights
   2. A leisurely drive down the Lofoten islands
   3. Ferry from Moskenes to Bodo – a hop back on to mainland Norway
   4. Meander down to Oslo
   5. Ferry – Oslo to Keil
6. Day 20 - Drive from Kiel to Calais and the channel tunnel back home

With the web and google translate, no information is out of bounds and a good search and notes guided us on our way … but there is a charm in – we will take it as it comes.
The only confirmed items on our itinerary were

1. Channel Tunnel
2. Ferry to Helsinki
3. Campsite in Helsinki
4. Car Train to Rovaniemi
5. Return Channel Tunnel

That’s it. It is scary at times .. not to know what you will face, but on the other hand, a bit of adventure is liberating.

The only update that I made to the van, in addition to winter tyres was to have a waste bag at the rear (just in case we were unable to find rubbish bins, and an extra waste water container to empty our porta potti, in case it came to it).



Well, start from home, set trip meter to 0, Load it all up … and head out into the night!



Now this is when the trip actually starts … when you roll on to the train … and the adventure begins.



... and we were on our way!

Slept at a service station along the way near Ghent and next day morning, woke up to wide open fields and a beautiful sunrise. Oh it is so refreshing.


Day 1 was expected to be a long day of driving to get to the Ferry



Stopped enroute for refuelling


and got to the Ferry terminal in Travemunde


... there was already a queue and we had about 1.5 hours to while away.

 

[kurienp]

Boarded the Ferry

Made ourselves comfortable in our room for the night. Slept like a log.


Found this interesting placard outside our room



Yup, read that again, so true and reads well.

The next day was spent enjoying the views



and the day after morning (I think, I had lost track of time by this time, and that is how you know that you are enjoying the holiday), got to Helsinki port.


and a short drive saw us at a really cool campsite (Rastilla Camping)


With a very convenient connection into town.


We parked up and after a quick cleanup, we were on the well appointed metro into town

 

[kurienp]

Well, we were tourists in a new town, and blessed with great weather, we decided to make the most of it. For those who have been there, there's lots to experience in Helsinki.
nice old town


Lots to eat ...


... and yet more to eat



nothing other than street food. ... and of course Trams and Churches.




... and the interesting time, when you catch something interesting ...

 

[kurienp]

With celebrations on in Helsinki, there was lots to see



and blessed with great weather, just enjoy and feast ones eyes.



A trip to Soumenlinna - a world heritage site is good and we thoroughly enjoyed it.



With lots of interesting art and architecture





We could not ask for better weather.



Two days were spent enjoying Helsinki


... and then off to find the loading station for the car train! a new experience.

 

[kurienp]

With roadworks on, finding the station with directions in the local language was not easy, but finally found it ... parked up but had to wait for an hour to get the van loaded


Yup, the van goes up that ramp and on to the upper deck of the train. The lower deck it seems is for park and ride cars. Self-drive cars are allocated the top berth.

Well, the loading attendant did raise his eyebrows when I drove up the ramp ... and now I know why



I just about fitted the van in

all loaded, we then walked to the train station ... to get onto the passenger carrier.



This passenger carrier then picks up the car loaded wagons and the whole thing then moves ... trundling along up north.

We were quick to settle down in our allocated rooms and slept through the night ... in the morning we reached Rovaniemi, the car train detached, and off it went on its way.


We then had to drive the van down a similar ramp as earlier and viola ... we were in Santa Claus land.


Got into the van ... it was coooold outside, filled up from the local fuel station and off we went to Santa Claus Village - just 15 mins by car from the station.



I am sure that during the peak season, this place will be full of snow and children. It was peaceful and we could still explore. Yes, Santa was still there in his grotto ... and we met with him and had a good longish chat. He did not have anything better to do.

Picked up some trinkets from the Christmas shop ...



and figured out that we did not have anything much to do here. so wandered around a bit more taking in the experience



where ever we go, at least once in the day, we try and experience something local. This time this was it ... reindeer something with mashed potatoes ...



and the always safe option - of local fish and chips.

 

[kurienp]

Nothing more to experience at Santa Claus Village, we decided to drive on further to Nordkapp. Just a leisurely trundle, while experiencing what Finland had to offer.

and lo and behold ...





It was good to watch reindeers in their natural habitat ... just roaming on the road like cattle let free. That is why the speed limits are low in Finland and they are very strict about it. We were in no hurry so kept to the speed limits.

You drive through slowly, stopping at places ... taking a break ... and taking it all in ... (can you spot the van?)



and DNKY as always, with the front seat view, amused by the reindeers by the side of the road.




The evening saw us finding a good parking spot in a layby, cooking some delicious food.


and then enjoying nature and the sunset, before retiring for the night.





Woke up and this was us in the morning. Had a great night's sleep and all set to start our journey.



Brunch en route - parked by the side of the road on forestry land, off the beaten track.



and driving along, still in Finland, the first set of signs to Nordkap - where we are headed - not forgotten the northern lights yet. That is there playing at the back of my mind. What will we find ... will we be able to see the Northern Lights?



We are still a long way away (a few hours or more), but the drive is interesting - just watching the changing landscapes.

 

[kurienp]

... and suddenly ... we were at the border with Norway ... a quick passport check and vaccine check - and we were through.



Stopped for lunch .. our first meal in Norway ...



and then headed to Nordkapp. Nordkapp was beckoning!

With such great weather and time on our side, we leisurely trundled along, stopping often to take in the beauty of the landscape







and arrived at Nordkapp as the Sun was setting



With such clear skies and with a large expected CME - coronal mass ejections - we may be very lucky tonight! but we were hungry ... very hungry.

So while we waited, my wife may have become the first person of Indian origin to cook Indian Chicken Curry at the northernmost point in Europe that can be accessed by car. Nice chicken curry and rice - bring it on.





It was evening and stepped out of the van to take a few pics ...



it was beautiful and peaceful.

 

[kurienp]

What happened next was unreal.











what at times appeared to the eye and started as Grey coloured clouds ... suddenly burst into colours and it was unreal. We stayed outside watching the aurora borealis well into the night.

 

[kurienp]

Well, had I not planned for 5 days here? I had ... but day 1 ... and that objective was met. Now what next ... we had 4 extra days! yay! let's explore.

This was next day morning at Nordkapp.



heavenly.

and this is how crowded it was



A walk around the area, taking in the stunning scenery and relaxing and re-doing plans for the coming days. We now had all the time in the world.











Enjoy everything responsibly. Don't disturb nature ... and then we had some long roads to travel back to civilization ... dreaming about what we had experienced the previous night.



but the scenery was breathtaking

 

[chockswahay]

Niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice !

 

[kurienp]

We drove along enjoying the scenery ... around every corner, there is something to admire






and found a community camping spot for 10 Euros for the night.



Stunning mooring



Parked up and slept off looking at this sight



... and next day this is what we woke up to ... the sun just warming up the peaks ...



Started to drive, trying to find a spot for breakfast ... and look where we landed up ..





... and drove into Tromso - into Tromso Camping for the evening. We were planning to park ourselves here for 2 night at least.

 

[Kingfisher]

This is great reading, thanks! Awesome pictures of the aurora!!

 

[GrahamB]

Great write up. We went to Iceland at half term and saw the aurora on the one clear evening we had - stunning.

 

[kurienp]

The initial day in Tromso was spent looking around. Interesting place ... just taking in the local city vibes

The Arctic Cathedral in Tromso. Interesting from inside as well.


Up the Fjellheisen using the cable car. We wanted to walk - but then decided to experience the views from the cable car. Great Views.
View from the top. definitely worth it.

and then the recommended soup at the restaurant on top



Was interesting to see some art work around the streets down below.



and only in Norway! A Tesla Model S Hearse.

 

[jonclareVWGrand]

Thanks for posting the story and all the pictures

 

[kurienp]

As they say, once you're addicted to the Northern lights, you want to see more. So we decided to catch up with Robin from on here, and try our luck once again to see the Aurora. Robin knows the secret places from where we can get the best sights ... so off we go to the designated place for an informal Cali Club meetup in Tromso, Norway.

Meet up!



Some local walks for some great views and stunning scenery





There was little snow on the mountain tops, but very cold.



All ready for the Aurora .. . with tripods and all ready.



But as they say, there are many factors that need to come together for the aurora. Today, there was a lot of action, but in the few hours, we could only capture some light shows.



Robin stayed up much longer and I think got some great shots later in the night.

A nice sound sleep at high altitude on the lower bed as the wind was really strong and next day morning, it was a drive down the mountain. Always good to meet up and have a chat with friends.

 

[kurienp]

We continued our journey trundling down towards the lofoten islands. Another great breakfast site ...



Quaint little houses and villages along the way. Stopped to see a few.


and then visited the polar park, the flexibility of a Cali - stop where and when you want/fancy



and got a moose as a pet!



We continued down to the Lofoten islands ... and around each corner was a hidden gem.







By now we had gotten pretty used to the places and the beautiful surroundings so our focus moved to food ... good food ... and we were able to hunt some down with excellent reviews and they did not disappoint.

 

[kurienp]

Unplanned parking and wild camping is prohibited on the Lofoten, so each evening we had to find a campsite - not an issue when off season, but again, some great hidden gems of campsites with great views and atmosphere.





There are many places to walk and walk we did ... up some mountains for great views.

 

[kurienp]

When in Lofoten, I would personally recommend a boat safari - especially to see eagles and of course the fjords, especially on a quiet day.



Watching the eagles at close range is stunning. We also had our binoculars and were able to follow then very close.




and as always, the natural beauty never disappoints.



Lofoten in short is nothing but lots of rocks jutting out of the water You have to see these face to face to appreciate the formations. A camera cannot capture the expanse and natural beauty. This was near the village of Nusfjord.



That evening meal was in another great restaurant randomly found while driving and with great reviews on tripadvisor.




and as always ! stunning sunsets and sunrises.



On a bright summers day, this place would be smelling of fish



Another great day ending at a nice campsite

 

[kurienp]

The last campsite that we stayed at was near the Moskenes ferry terminal to take the ferry to Bodo. But we still has Å - the last village on the Lofoten Islands. Å is and the end of the Lofoten alphabet and also the last village on the Lofoten islands.

Next day morning saw a short drive to Å and some walks around the town seeing sights etc before returning to Moskenes for the evening ferry to Bodo.

Here's the cali parked up at Å





and back to Moskenes, waiting for the Ferry to Bodo.



Once in Bodo, started the drive down to Oslo. But another item on the bucket list was to go to the Arctic center - which was closed off season, but always good to see what the place is like





On the way to Oslo, dropped in to Trondheim to see the place. Brilliant town, and here you can see where those postcard pics are taken



The Trondheim cathedral



and that evening saw us checking in to Bogstad camping on the outskirts of Oslo. The best thing about Bogstad, regular buses into town and that makes it very convenient.



The next 3 days were spent in meeting long lost friends from school and having great meals and catching up on old stories. What a great way to catch up (but not good when your friends reveal your old school secrets to your wife )

 

[kurienp]

Oslo has some interesting places to visit to see how people in the olden times lived. Very nice. That was completed with a visit to the Norwegian Museum of Cultural History, with very interesting buildings and ways of life to experience and see.







and of course the famous Vigeland Park - Google it and google for the "Spitfire" or "Angry Small Boy"

 

[kurienp]

We were almost at the end of our trip, the only thing to do now was to get on the ferry from Oslo to Kristiansland and then drive back home.

That was a lesuirely ferry and a drive back home, getting back home with some very sweet memories to cherish and share forever.







Overall an awesome trip ... and now planning the next one ... but definitely south of Norway is for another day!

 

[GrumpyGranddad]

Great trip write up and photos @kurienp it’s a trip we plan to do in the next year or two. Your trip brought back memories of our one and only visit to Norway which was on a Hutigruten ship from Bergen to Kirkenes and back.

If you don’t mind me asking, what do you think the total cost was for ferries, trains, tolls, campsites and fuel?

 

[Amarillo]

Fantastic! Brings back many happy memories. We did a similar trip in reverse over 6 weeks June to August 2017. But no Northern Lights, instead we had 11 days of midnight sun.

 

[kurienp]

If you don’t mind me asking, what do you think the total cost was for ferries, trains, tolls, campsites and fuel?

not at all. Excluding food and spend on "tourism/sight seeing" it was 2900 GBP. Food is expensive, and I guess we would've spent about 600 on grocery and meals out, general snacks. We love cooking in the van so mostly dinner was in the van and lunch out in the local place. This is over 3 weeks in two of the most expensive countries