As mentioned above , Orange / yellow DPF light can be switched off by Hard Driving style.
The accepted method is :
Min 20+ minutes driving above 2500 rpm (constant No dropping below at all) Motorway / Dual carriageway. (Avoid hills and increased acceleration) if the revs drop below 2500 at any point , restart the 20 minutes. Speed is irrelevant, Revs is key , it's easier to do this on a dual / motorway , but it's not speed related that counts.
At the end of the twenty + minutes, when at a suitable opportunity arises , change down the gears quickly whilst slowing, your looking to run the RPM upto 4500+ using the engine braking, whilst the engine is not under load (i.e. not acceleration) , keep changing down when the revs drop below 3000 whilst the bay an slows, the increase in revs should blow the crud out.
I've done this and actually seen a puff of black smoke behind me, looked back at the Dash, DPF light went out.
This works by heating up the crud in the DPF by constant increased RPM, (2500+) softening & loosening the excess Carbon deposits and burning them off slightly, to increase gas flow, the sudden extra High revs under no engine load assists in creating the back pressure required to push the carbon out of the DPF. The key is hard driving to the point you're not quite comfortable with the engine note.
I can't stress enough that it needs to be driven hard and at very high revs at the end of the "warm up". Hard Engine breaking & dropping down through the gears is the, after the war, up, is the "clear out".
When the DPF is particularly blocked (Orange / yellow light) it's like the engine is trying to breathe out through a straw, so it will feel sluggish.
If you don't manage to clear the Orange / yellow light , it will need costly intervention.