Replacing gas stove with electric hob

HI, I'm thinking of replacing my gas stove with an electric hob and running off a power bank - model is 2015 SE (T5.1 facelift model). Has anyone done this? If so, how expensive is it and how do I go about it? I'd love to do as much of it myself as possible. Next question - is it possible to then replace the cylindrical water tank? Or should I just use the middle of it as extra storage? Thanks for your help in advance.

Realistically its 1800w for a double induction, £800-1000 for a portable power station you would need with 1-2MwH giving you about an hour of cooking at full chat, obviously longer if you are simmering not sure why you would give up the convenience of gas? (for context we have a fully electrical house but not considering doing anything on the van!)

You mean 2KWh I suppose.. for 1hour full power.
It can be done but at what price :
Loose space for storing powerstation
Need to recharge powerstation almost every day
Need to store electric hob..

Annwithavan said:

HI, I'm thinking of replacing my gas stove with an electric hob and running off a power bank - model is 2015 SE (T5.1 facelift model). Has anyone done this? If so, how expensive is it and how do I go about it? I'd love to do as much of it myself as possible. Next question - is it possible to then replace the cylindrical water tank? Or should I just use the middle of it as extra storage? Thanks for your help in advance.

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You ask about cost.
Electric Hob, halogen or Induction, for a good one £250-500.

Power Bank, large capacity with a 2000-2500 watt inverter £750-1000.

If you are going to drive EVERYDAY for at least 2-3hrs then a high capacity DC-DC charger + wiring etc £200

If not driving everyday then you’ll need Solar panels, at least 200w for spring/summer/autumn or 300w for all year + controller. £1000.

So for about £2500 expenditure you can cook on electric all year round, or for £60/yr cook on gas.

Hi @Annwithavan

We moved away from gas a couple of years ago and occasionally cook with an induction hob and electric grill, As others have commented, it's very easy if you have space for the power bank and a grand, I'd strongly recommend this:


It then means that you can take an air fryer and coffee machine, even hair straighteners and hair dryer should you be so inclined (my wife often does!)

There are also many ways to charge it:
1) from 240v domestic socket at home before you travel
2) via 12v cigarette lighter socket while driving or a battery to battery dc charger (search charger one)
3) solar panels while parked up

I know others are resistant to change and to each their own, but with a new grandson that we're hoping to introduce to the joy of camping shortly, removing gas entirely gives us peace of mind.

As stated I don't have gas at home, and yet I do not fear i!
The california is one of the safest for carrying gas because of the water tank storage method.

Even as a tech guy, who owns an ecoflow delta for other use cases, I don't see the expanse and inconvenience in the Cali as any way necessary or proportionate.

You could always use a small induction ring on the worktop. Saves all the problems of taking the van apart, which I feel would put most people off if you were to sell at a later date. We have a single ring, one that we use when we have a hookup. Solved the issue of only one gas ring, now we have a Beach.

https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/159890...nBUhDdUjA6t_LG93HYOT_JfXgYUj_kHAaAqlBEALw_wcB

You can get a portable induction hob for about £50, a double for £70 and use it when on hook up. You can pay for a lot of nights on a campsite for the cost of a power bank big enough to run a hob for long. If you are looking at power banks you need to check that the storage rating kWh is enough to run the hob for a reasonable time and the output kW is well above the power rating of the hob.

Meoncoast said:

You could always use a small induction ring on the worktop. Saves all the problems of taking the van apart, which I feel would put most people off if you were to sell at a later date. We have a single ring, one that we use when we have a hookup. Solved the issue of only one gas ring, now we have a Beach.

https://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/159890...nBUhDdUjA6t_LG93HYOT_JfXgYUj_kHAaAqlBEALw_wcB

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Yes that 800w one could be run of a £400 1kWh Power Bank. Similar to the electric 900w kettle we use. It doesn't have to be thousands of expense to remove gas, despite what some say, but rather hundreds of pounds, even less buying second hand on ebay and Gumtree, etc.

Wannabecamperman said:

Hi @Annwithavan

We moved away from gas a couple of years ago and occasionally cook with an induction hob and electric grill, As others have commented, it's very easy if you have space for the power bank and a grand, I'd strongly recommend this:

BLUETTI Elite 200 V2 Portable Power Station | 2,073.6Wh 2,600W

Featured with an automotive-grade LFP battery, BLUETTI Elite 200 V2 portable power station with 6,000 plus life cycle, 2,600W output power and 3,900W lifting power, can support daily essentials. Click to explore the best partner for your camping, van life and home backup.

bluettipower.co.uk

It then means that you can take an air fryer and coffee machine, even hair straighteners and hair dryer should you be so inclined (my wife often does!)

There are also many ways to charge it:
1) from 240v domestic socket at home before you travel
2) via 12v cigarette lighter socket while driving or a battery to battery dc charger (search charger one)
3) solar panels while parked up

I know others are resistant to change and to each their own, but with a new grandson that we're hoping to introduce to the joy of camping shortly, removing gas entirely gives us peace of mind.

Click to expand...

1.air fryer, coffee machine, hairdryer.. power station, electric hob .. where on earth are you going to stow all these things ?
2.I can't remember having read about fire or explosions or other problems with gas in cali on this forum (member for more than 9 years..). Only slow heating beans on low flame..seems to be a problem for some..

Last winter I did install a Bluetti ac180 and a charger 1.Not so I could remove gas but to have options. We now have a kettle toaster and breville. Looking at taking air fryer etc in winter when bbq is left in garage.
System works flawlessly and I can remote came approx 4 days with our usage before moving 2/3 hour to charge frome empty. Use very little gas now and can have a brew without opening windows if so wish .System should cover your needs .I also have 200 watts solar to keep leisure batts topped up majority of the time.Price for bank and charger one kite 650 pounds .Solar cheap Chinese panels worked for 4 years now .Victron mppt of ebay 40 pounds .
As we camp year round and wanted back.Best thing is heated blanket in winter .Heaven

Ikea are currently selling the single induction hob (Tillreda) for £45, 13 amp plug 2000w.

Power bank say £500, I wouldn't replace gas system, just use the induction over top

secret lemonade drinker said:

Ikea are currently selling the single induction hob (Tillreda) for £45, 13 amp plug 2000w.

Power bank say £500, I wouldn't replace gas system, just use the induction over top

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They're coming down in price all the time, as are the power banks.

Though be warned, as the post above your mentions, once you invest in one, you find more and more uses for it, as having permanent 240V domestic power off grid really can transform the camping experience and convenience, and ultimately allow gas free travel.

As many on here know, I work from my van 4 days a week and have invested a ton into solar and my electrical system. I still use my gas occasionally. In Winter you will suffer greatly and the numbers here provided are not adequate for winter use off grid. I have 400 watts of solar permanently installed and can expand this to a total of 1.2Kw with external panels when needed. I do use my electrical all year round for air fryer and coffee mostly in addition to charing laptops, phones and tablets. My fridge runs 24/7 and I have a small dometic that I use as a freezer between the front seats.

I also have 360Ah of battery capacity and I can tell you, in Winter with the diesel heater going and the above mentioned devices adding an electric hob will bring me down to zero in no time with limited sun hours (if any on winter days) to recharge.

I supplement this with a custom adaptor cable I can use to charge up at any EV Charging station that is AC (DC won't work). Works a treat. But solve for Winter and any other situation is solved by default.

Webbah_in_Switzerland said:

As many on here know, I work from my van 4 days a week and have invested a ton into solar and my electrical system. I still use my gas occasionally. In Winter you will suffer greatly and the numbers here provided are not adequate for winter use off grid. I have 400 watts of solar permanently installed and can expand this to a total of 1.2Kw with external panels when needed. I do use my electrical all year round for air fryer and coffee mostly in addition to charing laptops, phones and tablets. My fridge runs 24/7 and I have a small dometic that I use as a freezer between the front seats.

I also have 360Ah of battery capacity and I can tell you, in Winter with the diesel heater going and the above mentioned devices adding an electric hob will bring me down to zero in no time with limited sun hours (if any on winter days) to recharge.

I supplement this with a custom adaptor cable I can use to charge up at any EV Charging station that is AC (DC won't work). Works a treat. But solve for Winter and any other situation is solved by default.

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As I imagine you are aware, many have opted for the 'charger one' and similar which give between 500w and 800w per hour from the alternator - fab in winter when the PV / solar suffers.

Wannabecamperman said:

As I imagine you are aware, many have opted for the 'charger one' and similar which give between 500w and 800w per hour from the alternator - fab in winter when the PV / solar suffers.

https://www.diy.com/departments/bluetti-charger-1-560w-alternator-charger-compatible-with-95-solar-generator-for-road-trips-rving/6970991299612_BQ.prd?&&&&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22309984786&gbraid=0AAAAADt-XHluQWXw5_OUozdnW013Krox4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzOvEBhDVARIsADHfJJThvB6MGKezifrxijFtgk99Yz6IdiMai8OMaIYsodJOieK4yCR2oQkaAmL9EALw_wcB

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I have a Victron 100A Buckboost which gives me 1,100-1,200 watts while driving. ;-)

Webbah_in_Switzerland said:

As many on here know, I work from my van 4 days a week and have invested a ton into solar and my electrical system. I still use my gas occasionally. In Winter you will suffer greatly and the numbers here provided are not adequate for winter use off grid. I have 400 watts of solar permanently installed and can expand this to a total of 1.2Kw with external panels when needed. I do use my electrical all year round for air fryer and coffee mostly in addition to charing laptops, phones and tablets. My fridge runs 24/7 and I have a small dometic that I use as a freezer between the front seats.

I also have 360Ah of battery capacity and I can tell you, in Winter with the diesel heater going and the above mentioned devices adding an electric hob will bring me down to zero in no time with limited sun hours (if any on winter days) to recharge.

I supplement this with a custom adaptor cable I can use to charge up at any EV Charging station that is AC (DC won't work). Works a treat. But solve for Winter and

Click to expand...

Webbah_in_Switzerland said:

I have a Victron 100A Buckboost which gives me 1,100-1,200 watts while driving. ;-)

Click to expand...

Is your alternator able to output that many watts? I have the Victron 50A DC-DC charger which is very efficient but I’ve never seen it output more than 37A so far, TBH it’s more than enough to charge my 200A of battery capacity in very little driving time.

wildslammer22 said:

Is your alternator able to output that many watts? I have the Victron 50A DC-DC charger which is very efficient but I’ve never seen it output more than 37A so far, TBH it’s more than enough to charge my 200A of battery capacity in very little driving time.

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Yeah, not a problem. I have a 250A Bosch alternator. Most Cali’s should have a 180A if I recall.

The OP talked about cooking and using 1000-2000 watts for an hour of cooking. So Id need to then drive for 1–2 hours or more just to replenish that for cooking only. Considering efficiency losses.


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Webbah_in_Switzerland said:

Yeah, not a problem. I have a 250A Bosch alternator. Most Cali’s should have a 180A if I recall.

The OP talked about cooking and using 1000-2000 watts for an hour of cooking. So Id need to then drive for 1–2 hours or more just to replenish that for cooking only. Considering efficiency losses.


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Yes, my Cali alternator is rated at 250A too but if it’s running aircon/heater, wipers, lights etc in winter I wondered what the real world max output would be available for the Buckboost.

wildslammer22 said:

Yes, my Cali alternator is rated at 250A too but if it’s running aircon/heater, wipers, lights etc in winter I wondered what the real world max output would be available for the Buckboost.

Click to expand...

I’ve never had a problem with mine, but it is possible to limit the power in the settings if that were to be a problem.


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Webbah_in_Switzerland said:

I have a Victron 100A Buckboost which gives me 1,100-1,200 watts while driving. ;-)

Click to expand...

Wowee! Your 'buck' is indeed boosted : - ) Nice one.

Annwithavan said:

HI, I'm thinking of replacing my gas stove with an electric hob and running off a power bank - model is 2015 SE (T5.1 facelift model). Has anyone done this? If so, how expensive is it and how do I go about it? I'd love to do as much of it myself as possible. Next question - is it possible to then replace the cylindrical water tank? Or should I just use the middle of it as extra storage? Thanks for your help in advance.

Click to expand...

I’m sorry, I don’t know the answer to your questions, but I am interested to know why you wish to convert from gas to electricity. Is it an eco or safety concern for example?

Looking at the original post the member has not visited the site since the post.

acer said:

I’m sorry, I don’t know the answer to your questions, but I am interested to know why you wish to convert from gas to electricity. Is it an eco or safety concern for example?

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I can’t answer for the original poster but it isn’t necessarily more eco friendly, depending on where you get the electricity from to run it.

From a safety concern maybe, for obvious reasons but wait till your LifePo4 catches fire and good luck with extinguishing that (look at electric cars catching fire).

Even though historically Germany together with gas has a bad reputation I am not worried about the gas in my Cali

SanderR72 said:

I can’t answer for the original poster but it isn’t necessarily more eco friendly, depending on where you get the electricity from to run it.

From a safety concern maybe, for obvious reasons but wait till your LifePo4 catches fire and good luck with extinguishing that (look at electric cars catching fire).

Even though historically Germany together with gas has a bad reputation I am not worried about the gas in my Cali

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Lithium Phosphate batteries have a very stable chemistry and very low risk profile for fire. Lithium Ion and NMC are the riskier types. Unless you heat them above 200C for extended periods or have a severe puncture it’s a moot point.

More detailed response below:

LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) batteries, often abbreviated as LFP, are a type of lithium-ion battery known for their enhanced safety profile compared to other chemistries like NMC (nickel manganese cobalt) or NCA (nickel cobalt aluminum). The risk of them catching fire is extremely low under normal operating conditions, making them one of the safest lithium-based battery options available. 1 0 11 24
Why LiFePO4 Batteries Have Low Fire Risk
• Stable Chemistry: The cathode material (iron phosphate) forms strong bonds with lithium ions, which prevents excessive heating and reduces the likelihood of thermal runaway—a chain reaction where heat causes further degradation, potentially leading to fire. This stability means LiFePO4 batteries operate at lower temperatures and are less reactive than batteries using cobalt or nickel. 8 24
• Higher Thermal Thresholds: Thermal runaway in LiFePO4 batteries typically requires extreme overheating, with trigger temperatures around 185–200°C (depending on state of charge), often only under simulated abuse like exposure to adjacent battery failures. In contrast, other lithium-ion types can enter thermal runaway at lower temperatures (e.g., 150–170°C for some NMC variants). 25 24
• Built-in Safety Features: Most LiFePO4 batteries include a Battery Management System (BMS) that monitors voltage, temperature, and current to prevent overcharging, over-discharging, or short circuits—common precursors to fires in less stable batteries. 24
• Resistance to Abuse: Tests show they often don’t ignite even when punctured, short-circuited, or drilled, unlike other lithium-ion batteries that can erupt in flames under similar stress. 9 10
Conditions Where Fire Risk Increases
While fires are rare, they can occur under extreme or abusive conditions:
• Overheating: Prolonged exposure to very high temperatures (e.g., above 200°C) can cause the internal separator to melt, leading to short circuits and potential combustion. This might happen in scenarios like a fire from an external source or failure in a battery pack where one cell overheats others. 25 24
• Physical Damage: Severe punctures, crushing, or impacts can compromise the battery’s structure, releasing flammable electrolytes or gases (e.g., CO, HF, H2), though LiFePO4 is less likely to ignite than other types. 4 24
• Manufacturing Defects or Improper Use: Faulty production, using incompatible chargers, or overcharging without a BMS can increase risks, but these are mitigated by buying from reputable manufacturers. 24
• Higher State of Charge (SOC): Batteries at 50–100% SOC release more heat and gases during failure, potentially leading to jet fires, but these are still less violent than in other chemistries. 25
Real-World Incidents and Comparisons
Documented fires specifically involving LiFePO4 batteries are exceedingly rare, with most reported lithium-ion battery fires (e.g., over 25,000 incidents in a five-year period per U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission data) stemming from other chemistries like those in consumer electronics, e-bikes, or electric vehicles using NMC or similar. 17 26 21 24 According to the Battery Safety Council, LiFePO4 incidents are far fewer than those involving cobalt- or nickel-based batteries, often due to misconceptions conflating all lithium-ion types. 24 No large-scale LiFePO4-specific fire outbreaks appear in recent reports; high-profile events (e.g., factory fires in Taiwan or Spain) typically involve non-LiFePO4 lithium-ion cells. 15 22
In summary, the fire risk for LiFePO4 batteries is minimal—often described as “incombustible” or “fire-safe” for everyday use in applications like solar storage, RVs, or EVs—provided they are handled properly and equipped with a BMS. If safety is a primary concern, they are a superior choice over traditional lithium-ion batteries.


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