Replacing gas regulator and hose

From memory the one connected to the regulator is left hand threat, the one connected to the water tanks elbow joint is a normal right hand thread.


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Afirm on this - just went out to check.

Annoyingly. Since I changed it I seem to have a very slow leak. When turned on, gas builds up over about 12 hours so I get a strong whiff when opening the locker lid (that didn’t happen before I changed the hose), but not enough to show up with any leak detector fluid. Grrr.


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I am asking re the thread on the two nuts on the end of the Gok replacement gas hose so I can know which way to undo them?
 
In which case, as per my response:

Water tank elbow joint end: turn it ANTI-CLOCKWISE to undo (as per a ‘normal’ thread)

Regulator end: turn it CLOCKWISE to undo.

If you have the replacement hose already, you can work it out by looking closely at the threads, which is what I ended up doing! For me, as per this discussion, the water tank end was still very stiff to remove once the thread was undone and free-spinning.


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Afirm on this - just went out to check.

Annoyingly. Since I changed it I seem to have a very slow leak. When turned on, gas builds up over about 12 hours so I get a strong whiff when opening the locker lid (that didn’t happen before I changed the hose), but not enough to show up with any leak detector fluid. Grrr.

Many thanks
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Afirm on this - just went out to check.

Annoyingly. Since I changed it I seem to have a very slow leak. When turned on, gas builds up over about 12 hours so I get a strong whiff when opening the locker lid (that didn’t happen before I changed the hose), but not enough to show up with any leak detector fluid. Grrr.


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Did you put PTFE tape on the threads?
 
I take it the olive goes on the end of the replacement pipe that attaches to the the water tank elbow unit with the thinner end of the olive pointing to the elbow unit?
 
Did you put PTFE tape on the threads?

Errr...no . But there was none on the original that I removed.

As the olive is single use only I can’t undo that again, but could try the regulator end. More concerned I’d damage the water tank elbow joint when trying to remove.


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I take it the olive goes on the end of the replacement pipe that attaches to the the water tank elbow unit with the thinner end of the olive pointing to the elbow unit?

Yes - olive end connects to the water tank joint.

As for the orientation - I can’t remember exactly but I googled this as it’s a generic gas connection, and double-checked against the one I removed.


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Errr...no . But there was none on the original that I removed.

As the olive is single use only I can’t undo that again, but could try the regulator end. More concerned I’d damage the water tank elbow joint when trying to remove.


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Should be able just to give it another 1/8th of a turn to nip the olive up tighter.
If you do use PTFE note that its not the same as use on water fittings, theres a specific version for gas - usually in a yellow container compared the water stuffs white.
 
Should be able just to give it another 1/8th of a turn to nip the olive up tighter.
If you do use PTFE note that its not the same as use on water fittings, theres a specific version for gas - usually in a yellow container compared the water stuffs white.

Thanks.

I’ve already given it one extra turn, but may try again. I fitted it back in the summer when it was hot, so temperature may have been an issue.

Will get some correct tape on order and give that a shot too.


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Mix up a cupful of Fairy Liquid (other brands are available) with some water and using a small paint brush, with the stove/oven etc OFF and the gas bottle valve OPEN give the hoses, joints etc a light coating with the mix. Carefully check all joints and if there is a gas leak, bubbles will form around the weak areas indicating that attention or replacement of the component/hose/joint is required.


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Mix up a cupful of Fairy Liquid (other brands are available) with some water and using a small paint brush, with the stove/oven etc OFF and the gas bottle valve OPEN give the hoses, joints etc a light coating with the mix. Carefully check all joints and if there is a gas leak, bubbles will form around the weak areas indicating that attention or replacement of the component/hose/joint is required.


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Thanks Keith. I bought some leak detector fluid (alternative to Fairy Liquid, pre mixed in a spray can at about 10 times the price...) at the same time as the replacement hose and have tried it several times on all joints, but the (assumed) leak is so small I can’t differentiate from the natural bubbles in the liquid. Might try the paintbrush idea though, to suppress the natural bubbles.

I can’t smell anything directly either, only once the gas bottle’s been left on for around 12+ hours with the locker lid shut, then there’s a momentary ‘whiff’ when re-opening the locker lid. Longer I leave it, stronger the smell is, but dissipates within a couple of seconds (and have to wait 12 hours to try it again after tweaking anything!).

I’ve also checked the seals on the tap as they came with the hose kit and I replaced them, but they seem to be seated fine. I tried a different tap but was a different design and that leaked like a sieve (no problems with seeing bubbles in the fluid there!). I do have a second (brand new) bottle so might try that. If nothing else the higher pressure might make a difference (if the leak is upstream of the regulator, but that’s inconsistent with me changing the hose).

Frustratingly I don’t think the gas system had ever been used by the previous owner. Everything was still spangly new...just 2 years passed it’s “replace by” date!

If all else fails I’ll probably take it to a specialist.


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I take it the olive goes on the end of the replacement pipe that attaches to the the water tank elbow unit with the thinner end of the olive pointing to the elbow unit?
Look at post 25 (where I had it wrong) then post 29...
 
Look at post 25 (where I had it wrong) then post 29...

Knew I'd seen it somewhere, didn't realise it was on this thread! Thanks for that...and for the PTFE reply. Glad I hadn't missed the obvious, but might give it a try anyway if it will fix the problem.
 
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That looks about right to me. I take it you have the rubber seals also.
Mine has got like a double nut on it a bit different than the
one you have.
Don´t forget the gas leak detector spray when you´ve finished.View attachment 34373
Your so called double nut is actually one nut. The groove in it usually denotes a left hand thread.
 

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