2016 Beach manual sliding door problem

[Guy Raymond]

Hi everyone. How much play should there be in manual sliding door? (2016 T5.1 Beach). The top roller isn't rolling, despite lubricating. It doesn't sound great. There is a bit of play when you push the top of the door, probably 20 mm ish, i'm not sure If this is normal.

The handle feels a bit loose. Can a novice remove the trim to access the mechanism behind?One of the lower catches looks likes it's been damaged. See pics.

The rear arch has a light scratch (we saw this when we bought it) assumed by the table, which seems to be a common problem reviewing the threads. I was assured this was due to the table not being stowed properly, not the door dropping.

In the 5th pic of the door, between the sticker and the door connector is a void, is something missing?

The van is out of warranty and it seems that this needs specialist attention. Really hope it's not going to be a big bill!

Any wisdom? Pics attached. Thanks a lot!

 

[TripleBee]

I should see the van in real life to make a good conclusion.
In the last picture, you are missing the child lock activation thingy. This should not be the big cost. And if you don't need child lock (I never used in mine), you could just blank it. Or buy a new thingy.
Part 31 - 34, check what parts were for your van.

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/campmob+%28typ2+transp+lt%29/camp/2016-733/8/843-843080/#34

As for the rollers, you'd have to check what is really going on. Or try to film it so we can have an idea of what really happens. Part numbers you can find here:

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/campmob+%28typ2+transp+lt%29/camp/2016-733/8/843-843000/

 

[Guy Raymond]

I should see the van in real life to make a good conclusion.
In the last picture, you are missing the child lock activation thingy. This should not be the big cost. And if you don't need child lock (I never used in mine), you could just blank it. Or buy a new thingy.
Part 31 - 34, check what parts were for your van.

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/campmob+%28typ2+transp+lt%29/camp/2016-733/8/843-843080/#34

As for the rollers, you'd have to check what is really going on. Or try to film it so we can have an idea of what really happens. Part numbers you can find here:

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/campmob+%28typ2+transp+lt%29/camp/2016-733/8/843-843000/

Thanks TripleBee. I was struggling to film and open and close door last night. Will get some help today.

 

[flying banana]

Try some silicon spray and try get the roller turning. The missing piece could have fell inside the door if you get the trim off you may be able to fish it out.Trim removing tools on Ebay are a big help there

 

[Louis II]

Assuming you mean mean there is 20mm play when the door is open I think that's normal it sort of hangs in place rather than being fixed.
If the roller is stuck you need to be careful not to lubricate the outside of the roller / inside of the channel as this will encourage it to slide rather than roll. Ideally you need to somehow lubricate only the bearing of the roller.
It looks like the top roller is adjusted fully out but hard to tell from the photo. You could try adjusting it in a bit which will increase contact between the side of the channel & the roller. You can see 2 screws on the underside of the bracket in your 2nd photo, if you loosen them (carefully not to remove completely as the door is heavy!) you can increase the overlap between the 2 bits of bracket to which moves the top of the door in slightly.
Also worth checking the panel gaps around the door when closed as an indication of whether it is properly adjusted / has dropped.

 

[Guy Raymond]

Assuming you mean mean there is 20mm play when the door is open I think that's normal it sort of hangs in place rather than being fixed.
If the roller is stuck you need to be careful not to lubricate the outside of the roller / inside of the channel as this will encourage it to slide rather than roll. Ideally you need to somehow lubricate only the bearing of the roller.
It looks like the top roller is adjusted fully out but hard to tell from the photo. You could try adjusting it in a bit which will increase contact between the side of the channel & the roller. You can see 2 screws on the underside of the bracket in your 2nd photo, if you loosen them (carefully not to remove completely as the door is heavy!) you can increase the overlap between the 2 bits of bracket to which moves the top of the door in slightly.
Also worth checking the panel gaps around the door when closed as an indication of whether it is properly adjusted / has dropped.

Thanks Louis II. I will try that. I agree on the lubing of the track, it needs more friction if anything, and it looks like if it were pulled in as you suggested that would help this. Will also check the panel gaps!

 

[Perfectos]

IMO some one has adjusted the door to prevent the scraping of the rear wheel arch.

The missing bit is the child lock switch as has been mentioned above by th OP.

The roller brackets can be adjusted, (all three) they do wear out and can be replaced off necessary.

I would suggest starting with the top roller adjustment.

The top roller can be adjusted inward to pull the top of the door in ward and conversely allow the bottom to clear the bodywork. Correct adjustment will ensure the top roller makes contact with the outside of the top rail and allow the roller to roll. ( not slides)

Open the sliding door half way fully, look up at the the top roller bracket from you will see several fixings, in the middle of the bracket there is a slot, the slot is a locator and sits over a protrusion.

Mark the existing position of the two parts of the top bracket (important) so you can reference the existing position. (Use something that will not rub off easily, or attach some tape to the two parts and mark that)

Loosen the two screws that attach the two brackets together ( do not undo them fully, just loosen them) the bracket will now slide in / out

Using the previously marked position as your reference, move the door inwards on the bracket, by a couple of millimetres.

Tighten the two screws fully

Try the operation of the door carefully to see if this improves the alignment / position of the door, check all gaps etc for correct / even spacing and ensure the door does not catch the body work and door pillar brackets. Check if this has improved or not

Repeat as necessary. ( small adjustments make a big difference)

Each bracket, top, middle and bottom have a specific job to do in correct alignment of the slider.

I’m afraid it’s Trial and error to be the door seated and working 100%

Remembering to mark the original position of each bracket before you loosen / adjust anything, so you have a point of reference and can return to the exiting setting if required.

 

[Perfectos]

The location striker is a bit worn photo 3&4 these are cheap to replace and can make a huge difference in reducing rattles and alignment when the door is closed. They support the door when in the closed position and help to pull the door onto the rubber seal.
These are adjustable by slackening the screws ( again mark the position) the femal part is located in the door.

The item in photo 5 is the door latch sensor, again a bit worn, this looks like the door alignment issue has caused the inside of the door to rub on the plastic. , the mark should come out.

You may be able to retrieve the child lock switch by undoing the plastic facia (photo 5) and fishing around (using a torch to locate the child lock.)

All bits are inexpensive, the door locators male and female should be changed together.

 

[Perfectos]

 

[Guy Raymond]

The location striker is a bit worn photo 3&4 these are cheap to replace and can make a huge difference in reducing rattles and alignment when the door is closed. They support the door when in the closed position and help to pull the door onto the rubber seal.
These are adjustable by slackening the screws ( again mark the position) the femal part is located in the door.

The item in photo 5 is the door latch sensor, again a bit worn, this looks like the door alignment issue has caused the inside of the door to rub on the plastic. , the mark should come out.

You may be able to retrieve the child lock switch by undoing the plastic facia (photo 5) and fishing around (using a torch to locate the child lock.)

All bits are inexpensive, the door locators male and female should be changed together.

Hi Perfectos, thanks a lot for your detailed and clear replied, I really appreciate it. I will let you know how I get on. Next thread i need is how to successfully remove and replace the trim! A friend replaced his tailgate light and had a nightmare getting it back! Thanks again

 

[TripleBee]

What have you bought for your Cali today :-)

I'm in the market for one myself, would you recommend that one? I had a nice Pure one that gave up the ghost after about 7 years service, I tried to get the same model but they don't make it any more. Have had disappointing experiences with two different Majority models since, neither of which...

vwcaliforniaclub.com

Get the table out. Unscrew the 4 screws under the table at the bottom.
Pull firmly from the underside, and along the sides, then under the window. Top trip doesn't need to come off.

 

[Perfectos]

Hi Guy

See below from Haynes Manual, note this if the Transporter T5, not the Cali.

As TripleBee says the main panel should be held on with clips (after removing all the screws)

 

[Guy Raymond]

Hi Guy

See below from Haynes Manual, note this if the Transporter T5, not the Cali.

As TripleBee says the main panel should be held on with clips (after removing all View attachment 59114View attachment 59115View attachment 59116View attachment 59117the screws)

Excellent, thanks a lot, really appreciate it. Have been out on the van tonight. I've freed the roller up, buy it doesn't really want to roll, even under pressure when I push it in. I guess I could remove the roller arm and replace it. Also, when shut, should the door sit totally flush with the rest of the body? Mine doesn't, but it's not widly out.

 

[Guy Raymond]

Excellent, thanks a lot, really appreciate it. Have been out on the van tonight. I've freed the roller up, buy it doesn't really want to roll, even under pressure when I push it in. I guess I could remove the roller arm and replace it. Also, when shut, should the door sit totally flush with the rest of the body? Mine doesn't, but it's not widly out.

View attachment 59236

View attachment 59237

View attachment 59239

View attachment 59240

 

[Perfectos]

Hi Guy
Yes the door should sit flush with the body panel, does it sit better than before ?

It looks like the middle hinge may not be adjusted correctly, however from memory to adjust it you need to remove the cover panel that runs along the van, ( don’t quote me on this though, as I removed the whole door, the hinge may be possible to adjust with the panel in situ) trouble is when you remove the panel (carefully) there is a high chance that the retaining clips holding the panel on to the van break, ( become unusable) the clips fairly cheap and are easily replaceable, but you should source some before removing the panel if you want to get the panel back on the van !

A body shop will be able to get them for you. ( use the original VW ones)

I suspect some one has fiddled with the door alignment previously and not done the best job, resulting in the multiple issues.
As the door components wear they loose the factory alignment.

Before moving to the middle hinge:
Have you tried adjusting the male part of the the fitting on the rear of the B pillar, ( your original post, photo three and four) as before mark the existing position before slackening the screws. A peice of masking tape along one straight edge and either the top or bottom edge will do this nicely as I marks the exiting position and is a good point of reference when adjusting and if you need to return them to the original position.
When the screws are loose the fitting will move in / out slightly both male and female are adjustable.

If you remove the fitting totally you may be able to see the original factory positions as they imprint into the paint.

By moving these or replacing worn fitments (as a set),
The result on the door can be dramatic. Not only do these brackets pull the door onto the rubber seal they “carry the door when it is In The closed position.

Take time to understand how the male and female part work and interact with the other moving parts. The fixed male / female fitting are Simple but highly effective.

I would suggest the door is pulling in at the front too much, I presume you can push the door in at the rear ?
therefore try moving the brackets on the back of the B Pillar outwards May improve the situation, but may throw up another set of issues with alignment / rattles.

be careful when closing the door to check alignment.

Remember, The female part can be move also when the male and female part interlock they affect how the door seats in the closed position. ( and is carried)
Get it right and all will be good ( no rattles etc) get it wrong and the door won’t sit correctly and will rattle when closed or be pulled onto the seal too tightly

As before small adjustments, check and re adjust as required, trial and error, remember there are two sets (four parts that need to align correctly) worn parts will not give the correct alignment/ support of the closed door. Packing grease into the female part can assist in understanding if the parts are worn, although this is not a fix as the grease will be pushed out with normal use. If the grease improves the situation, nominally, replace all four fitments ( from memory a set was about £15, 5 years ago)

Try googling it, it’s been several years since I did mine and I can’t remember how to adjust the middle hinge.
Setting the door up correctly is a trial and error and requires an understanding of how the various components interact and affect each other.

To compound this worn parts will not make it any easier in setting the door up.

You can remove the whole door or you could just remove the top part of the bracket / roller and free up the roller, but the long panel running the side of the van will have to come off.Edit : if you remove the whole door)

It depends on you particular skill set and confidence.

A good body shop would be able to do this for you and replace any worn parts if you are not confident

There may be some references on this site?

I’ll try and have a look at the middle hinge in the morning and see if I can remember how to adjust.

Good luck

 

[Perfectos]

Have a read of this thread

Welsh gas posted the part numbers

Also forgot to mention the centre punch marks the factor apply to mark the original position. (It’s been some years)

Noisy sliding door

Yes I have a noisy side door sat in the back and it seems that the window is loose and rattling haven't had time to investigate how to fix yet.

vwcaliforniaclub.com

 

[Louis II]

From memory it now costs the best part of £100 to replace all 4 door fittings.

If the back of the door is close to being flush you can achieve a small amount of adjustment from the catch on the c pillar.

Mark the original position, loosen bolts and move inwards slightly. If you move to much the door won't close properly but it's an easy way to pull the door in a few mm.

If you remove the top roller arm (you will need someone or something to hold the door in place) the top of the roller can be prised out with a Stanley knife revealing the bearing which you can then clean and lubricate. You can buy replacements cheaply on ebay or expensively from vw.

There is also a rubber bumper at the back top & bottom corners of the door, they adjust by screwing in and out, if too far out they can cause a gap top & or bottom.

 

[Guy Raymond]

From memory it now costs the best part of £100 to replace all 4 door fittings.

If the back of the door is close to being flush you can achieve a small amount of adjustment from the catch on the c pillar.

Mark the original position, loosen bolts and move inwards slightly. If you move to much the door won't close properly but it's an easy way to pull the door in a few mm.

If you remove the top roller arm (you will need someone or something to hold the door in place) the top of the roller can be prised out with a Stanley knife revealing the bearing which you can then clean and lubricate. You can buy replacements cheaply on ebay or expensively from vw.

There is also a rubber bumper at the back top & bottom corners of the door, they adjust by screwing in and out, if too far out they can cause a gap top & or bottom.

Thanks Louis. Armed with all this advice, I will give this a go. I do not have someone to help hold the door... ! I wonder how much VW would charge to line this all up? Any ideas?

 

[Guy Raymond]

From memory it now costs the best part of £100 to replace all 4 door fittings.

If the back of the door is close to being flush you can achieve a small amount of adjustment from the catch on the c pillar.

Mark the original position, loosen bolts and move inwards slightly. If you move to much the door won't close properly but it's an easy way to pull the door in a few mm.

If you remove the top roller arm (you will need someone or something to hold the door in place) the top of the roller can be prised out with a Stanley knife revealing the bearing which you can then clean and lubricate. You can buy replacements cheaply on ebay or expensively from vw.

There is also a rubber bumper at the back top & bottom corners of the door, they adjust by screwing in and out, if too far out they can cause a gap top & or bottom.

As ever, thanks perfectos. I have my work cut out. I will report back! Really appreciate the time you have taken to provide your wisdom!

 

[Louis II]

Thanks Louis. Armed with all this advice, I will give this a go. I do not have someone to help hold the door... ! I wonder how much VW would charge to line this all up? Any ideas?

Not sure how much VW would charge. I'm also in Bristol and use VeeW Service in Bedminster, they may be more willing to adjust what you have & only replace what you need but I could be wrong.

I also tend to be solo when working on the van. if you just want to do the top roller you can open the sliding window and with the door open & clicked in place put a strap around the window frame & grab handle bracket on the c pillar, it only needs to hold the door in not take any weight.
If you need to adjust the bottom roller thats a lot more tricky as it takes a lot of the weight of the door.

You might be surprised the difference you can make by carefully adjusting the catch on the c pillar, the location pins on the front edge of the door & the top roller all of which are straightforward and nothing to loose as long as you mark the original positions.

 

[Perfectos]

Hi Guy

Having been and checked my van this morning, the middle bracket / roller will only give vertical / angular adjustment. Which is not what your trying to achieve.

Louis’ suggestion regarding the C pillar latch seems a highly logical suggestion and perfectly reasonable to expect the rear of the door to pull in on that latch.

See photos below of the C pillar latch Louis suggests moving inward to pull the back of the door inward.

Moving this may result in the B pillar fittings needing to be adjusted to obtain the correct fit, it’s pure trial and error. As always mark the position before moving anything and close / open the door carefully after any adjustment ( to avoid damage if incorrectly)


As far as how much Vw will charge, how long is a peice of string .
I would imagine the cost would be in the order of 4 hours labour + parts ( ouch) as the correc door adjustment depends on an amount of luck and skill,
it may take less it may take more, but I would imagine they will want to replace all parts at the same time (double ouch)

 

[Guy Raymond]

Hi Guy

Having been and checked my van this morning, the middle bracket / roller will only give vertical / angular adjustment. Which is not what your trying to achieve.

Louis’ suggestion regarding the C pillar latch seems a highly logical suggestion and perfectly reasonable to expect the rear of the door to pull in on that latch.

See photos below of the C pillar latch Louis suggests moving inward to pull the back of the door inward.

Moving this may result in the B pillar fittings needing to be adjusted to obtain the correct fit, it’s pure trial and error. As always mark the position before moving anything and close / open the door carefully after any adjustment ( to avoid damage if incorrectly)
View attachment 59244

As far as how much Vw will charge, how long is a peice of string .
I would imagine the cost would be in the order of 4 hours labour + parts ( ouch) as the correc door adjustment depends on an amount of luck and skill,
it may take less it may take more, but I would imagine they will want to replace all parts at the same time (double ouch)

I'm making good progress with the door. Alignment is now better. Trim came off ok. All that is left now is the handle. Re attachments, is this play caused by a stretched cable? Hopefully not, but it seems that I might need to remove the whole mechanism? There is quite a bit of play in it. Thanks for all advice so far, it's all be enabled me to keep away from VW Bristol!

 

[Perfectos]

I'm making good progress with the door. Alignment is now better. Trim came off ok. All that is left now is the handle. Re attachments, is this play caused by a stretched cable? Hopefully not, but it seems that I might need to remove the whole mechanism? There is quite a bit of play in it. Thanks for all advice so far, it's all be enabled me to keep away from VW Bristol!

View attachment 60719

View attachment 60720

Hi Guy

I’m glad you’ve improved the door alignment, your new understanding and skill will serve you well in future
Re the door handle, does the door open correctly when the handle is pulled ?

If it does put it back together and leave it
If not you have a new set of skills to acquire ( a long with some parts )

 

[Guy Raymond]

Hi Guy

I’m glad you’ve improved the door alignment, your new understanding and skill will serve you well in future
Re the door handle, does the door open correctly when the handle is pulled ?

If it does put it back together and leave it
If not you have a new set of skills to acquire ( a long with some parts )

Yep. It's all working fine, but it does have some play. Could this turn into a big job?