240V in-vehicle supply - is it good? & HOW TO GET YOUR PLUG TO SIT FLAT

So, am I the only one with a 300w 2 pin socket on a T6.1 Coast? :(
Don't worry too much. Coasts sold in Europe would have a 2 pin socket. Just get an adapter. BUT don't leave it plugged in when not using the inverter. The previous inverter has a microswitch activated by plugging in a plug or adapter that switched the inverter on, and once switched on it uses some power.
 
For anyone that without a built in inverter. Can recommend below, provides enough to power a laptop and is nice and compact, plugs into the 12v socket and fits in the cupholder and has on/off switch.

 
For anyone that without a built in inverter. Can recommend below, provides enough to power a laptop and is nice and compact, plugs into the 12v socket and fits in the cupholder and has on/off switch.

I'd be VERY cautious using these and wouldn't leave them unattended. Someone's cheap plugin inverter caught fire. Need to find the thread.
 
I'd be VERY cautious using these and wouldn't leave them unattended. Someone's cheap plugin inverter caught fire. Need to find the thread.
We only use it when working so it's never left unattended. Our Dell laptops only draw 3A.

Some issues are caused by larger invertors when people plug something causes a surge that exceeds the max fuse rating of the vans 12v cigarette fuse (10amp?). If you want to exceed this then need to get one that connects direct to battery with an in-line fuse.
 
We only use it when working so it's never left unattended. Our Dell laptops only draw 3A.

Some issues are caused by larger invertors when people plug something causes a surge that exceeds the max fuse rating of the vans 12v cigarette fuse (10amp?). If you want to exceed this then need to get one that connects direct to battery with an in-line fuse.
The van 12v sockets are rated at 20 amps but fused at 15 amps.
 
We've used that plug socket numerous times in both T6.1 and T6, e.g. radio charger, shoe heaters, laptops and it was on the must-have list for our spec.

90% of accessories can be simply charged from USB those days anyway, and even my laptop can charge slowly plugged in directly to 12V USB-C charger, but if you don't have such an option built-in inverter is great alternative to have. Also somehow more reliable than external ones I've used before.

From my own research, the fact that it doesn't produce perfect sine, as most of the inverters, is not really an issue for the devices that transform it back to AC anyway - which is the case for most chargers.

On the other hand, I'd never consider taking an electric toothbrush or a 220V fan to a van o_O. But well, maybe we're just too pragmatic.
 
SEE UPDATE AT BOTTOM:

Further to my novice mains-user post in March this year, I subsequently found that the little ca. 2mm high raised ridge around the mains socket front face prevents some (probably most!) plugs from going down flat on the plate and connecting successfully to the 240V supply.

This is clearly quite a nuisance, so today I managed to get the unit off in order to dress down the offending stand-proud until it was nearly flush, tested it - all good - and reassembled it.

I also took the opportunity to refit the unit the 'correct' way up, so with the earth pin uppermost allowing the lead to point to the floor, which means that i) the annotation on the socket face is now upside down - who cares!, ii) the tell-tale ON-light is uppermost, so easier to see, and iii) the sprung-loaded cover now folds backwards towards the handbrake lever, so is out of the way and less vulnerable.

It was murder to get the unit out, and I had to remove the seat from its plinth to try to see what was going on, but once I got it out I realised how easy it would be to do once you knew which are the clips to spring to release the receptacle, and where they are!

You MUSTN'T remove the facia plate on the side of the seat base UNTIL you have the 3-pin receptacle out from the inside - if you try to do it in the wrong order you will almost certainly break something!

If anyone needs to do this same mod., or at least wants to get the driver base mains socket and facia plate off, give me a shout and I'll do a 'how-to'.

(NB the outline of paler grey abrasion marking at the chamfered extremity of the facia plate looks dreadful in the 2 photos below, whereas in reality it is hardly even discernible!)

HERE BELOW THE ORIGINAL TRIO ARE 4 MORE PHOTOS SHOWING THE RECEPTACLE FOR THE MAINS SOCKET, WITH AND WITHOUT THE MAINS SOCKET CLIPPED IN - SORRY, I DIDN'T TAKE A SHOT OF THE MAINS SOCKET ON ITS OWN - I CAN GO BACK IN AND TAKE IT OUT AGAIN (NOW THAT I KNOW HOW!) IF NEED BE . . .


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My 2008 t5 is just the 2 pin socket behind the passenger seat. Could it be changed for a 3pin socket?
 
My 2008 t5 is just the 2 pin socket behind the passenger seat. Could it be changed for a 3pin socket?
Are you referring to the Inverter socket or the Mains socket on the end of the kitchen unit?
 
My 2008 t5 is just the 2 pin socket behind the passenger seat. Could it be changed for a 3pin socket?

Quite possibly - it would make most sense if the mains socket you have fits into the same receptacle as I show in my post, otherwise you'll be into an adaption exercise - I cannot tell though without seeing yours, obviously !!!
 
My 2008 t5 is just the 2 pin socket behind the passenger seat. Could it be changed for a 3pin socket?
I don’t think so, from memory the door pillar socket has the inverter itself moulded on the back. The new version has a seperate inverter.
 
Worst bit of the California IMHO. Cheap and nasty component. I'd be interested in any suggestion of a mod that puts the 240v AC in a more sensible location.

In the meantime my Ecoflow provides 240v when I need off-shore power.
 
SEE UPDATE AT BOTTOM:

Further to my novice mains-user post in March this year, I subsequently found that the little ca. 2mm high raised ridge around the mains socket front face prevents some (probably most!) plugs from going down flat on the plate and connecting successfully to the 240V supply.

This is clearly quite a nuisance, so today I managed to get the unit off in order to dress down the offending stand-proud until it was nearly flush, tested it - all good - and reassembled it.

I also took the opportunity to refit the unit the 'correct' way up, so with the earth pin uppermost allowing the lead to point to the floor, which means that i) the annotation on the socket face is now upside down - who cares!, ii) the tell-tale ON-light is uppermost, so easier to see, and iii) the sprung-loaded cover now folds backwards towards the handbrake lever, so is out of the way and less vulnerable.

It was murder to get the unit out, and I had to remove the seat from its plinth to try to see what was going on, but once I got it out I realised how easy it would be to do once you knew which are the clips to spring to release the receptacle, and where they are!

You MUSTN'T remove the facia plate on the side of the seat base UNTIL you have the 3-pin receptacle out from the inside - if you try to do it in the wrong order you will almost certainly break something!

If anyone needs to do this same mod., or at least wants to get the driver base mains socket and facia plate off, give me a shout and I'll do a 'how-to'.

(NB the outline of paler grey abrasion marking at the chamfered extremity of the facia plate looks dreadful in the 2 photos below, whereas in reality it is hardly even discernible!)

HERE BELOW THE ORIGINAL TRIO ARE 4 MORE PHOTOS SHOWING THE RECEPTACLE FOR THE MAINS SOCKET, WITH AND WITHOUT THE MAINS SOCKET CLIPPED IN - SORRY, I DIDN'T TAKE A SHOT OF THE MAINS SOCKET ON ITS OWN - I CAN GO BACK IN AND TAKE IT OUT AGAIN (NOW THAT I KNOW HOW!) IF NEED BE . . .


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Nicely done. :thumb
 
SEE UPDATE AT BOTTOM:

Further to my novice mains-user post in March this year, I subsequently found that the little ca. 2mm high raised ridge around the mains socket front face prevents some (probably most!) plugs from going down flat on the plate and connecting successfully to the 240V supply.

This is clearly quite a nuisance, so today I managed to get the unit off in order to dress down the offending stand-proud until it was nearly flush, tested it - all good - and reassembled it.

I also took the opportunity to refit the unit the 'correct' way up, so with the earth pin uppermost allowing the lead to point to the floor, which means that i) the annotation on the socket face is now upside down - who cares!, ii) the tell-tale ON-light is uppermost, so easier to see, and iii) the sprung-loaded cover now folds backwards towards the handbrake lever, so is out of the way and less vulnerable.

It was murder to get the unit out, and I had to remove the seat from its plinth to try to see what was going on, but once I got it out I realised how easy it would be to do once you knew which are the clips to spring to release the receptacle, and where they are!

You MUSTN'T remove the facia plate on the side of the seat base UNTIL you have the 3-pin receptacle out from the inside - if you try to do it in the wrong order you will almost certainly break something!

If anyone needs to do this same mod., or at least wants to get the driver base mains socket and facia plate off, give me a shout and I'll do a 'how-to'.

(NB the outline of paler grey abrasion marking at the chamfered extremity of the facia plate looks dreadful in the 2 photos below, whereas in reality it is hardly even discernible!)

HERE BELOW THE ORIGINAL TRIO ARE 4 MORE PHOTOS SHOWING THE RECEPTACLE FOR THE MAINS SOCKET, WITH AND WITHOUT THE MAINS SOCKET CLIPPED IN - SORRY, I DIDN'T TAKE A SHOT OF THE MAINS SOCKET ON ITS OWN - I CAN GO BACK IN AND TAKE IT OUT AGAIN (NOW THAT I KNOW HOW!) IF NEED BE . . .


View attachment 100702
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My T6.1 Ocean is booked in for a replacement socket as plugging anything in to the socket falls out, maybe I need to take a closer look and possibly turn the socket "upside down"
To see if that helps.
A how to remove would be great.
 
My T6.1 Ocean is booked in for a replacement socket as plugging anything in to the socket falls out, maybe I need to take a closer look and possibly turn the socket "upside down"
To see if that helps.
A how to remove would be great.

There are safety aspects to consider before you get started... Apologies if you are already aware, no patronising intended.
 
My T6.1 Ocean is booked in for a replacement socket as plugging anything in to the socket falls out, maybe I need to take a closer look and possibly turn the socket "upside down"
To see if that helps.
A how to remove would be great.


So, my observations: the first (and only!) time I had previously tried to use the 'inverted mains' supply on the left hand driver's seat base was in March, when I plugged in my daughter's Canon camera charger and all worked OK.

Subsequently I tried to plug in my old MacBook Pro charger whose plug has an unfashionably broad footprint, and so had it sitting over the top of / outside the upstand which I highlighted above in red: this meant that the plug pins never connected with the 240V supply - this is key!

It is also true that with incomplete engagement AS WELL AS the plug upside down with the earth pin downmost and L/N pins uppermost, the plug is less stable and more likely to tip, especially if you add the effect of the cable hanging from the top, rather than underneath.

So, whether your plug pins make contact depends on the detail. The fact the VW socket has the plug upside down is i) odd, and ii) liable to 'overbalance' it, especially if it won't push all the way home. I inverted mine because it seemed right, then twigged the real benefit later!


I'll take my seat out and rephotograph the process again, and anyone who cares to can have a go at their own risk (!) . . . NB before I tried to remove the socket I disconnected the harness from the back of the unit, so it's really no more risky than moving a mains appliance having first unplugged it from the wall. But that's for YOU to evaluate and choose!
 
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There are safety aspects to consider before you get started... Apologies if you are already aware, no patronising intended.
Yeah sure, and you're entirely right to mention this - I don't make nor imply any assumption about others' competence or confidence to take their van to pieces in the way I am happy to do!
 
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So, my observations: the first (and only!) time I had previously tried to use the 'inverted mains' supply on the left hand driver's seat base was in March, when I plugged in my daughter's Canon camera charger and all worked OK.

Subsequently I tried to plug in my old MacBook Pro charger whose plug has an unfashionably broad footprint, and so had it sitting over the top of / outside the upstand which I highlighted above in red: this meant that the plug pins never connected with the 240V supply - this is key!

It is also true that with incomplete engagement AS WELL AS the plug upside down with the earth pin downmost and L/N pins uppermost, the plug is less stable and more likely to tip, especially if you add the effect of the cable hanging from the top, rather than underneath.

So, whether your plug pins make contact depends on the detail. The fact the VW socket has the plug upside down is i) odd, and ii) liable to 'overbalance' it, especially if it won't push all the way home. I inverted mine because it seemed right, then twigged the real benefit later!


I'll take my seat out and rephotograph the process again, and anyone who cares to can have a go at their own risk (!) . . . NB before I tried to remove the socket I disconnected the harness from the back of the unit, so it's really no more risky than moving a mains appliance having first unplugged it from the wall. But that's for YOU to evaluate and choose!

Thanks for that, I have worked on and restored many cars and houses in the past so not a problem.
 
My T6.1 Ocean is booked in for a replacement socket as plugging anything in to the socket falls out, maybe I need to take a closer look and possibly turn the socket "upside down"
To see if that helps.
A how to remove would be great.
The inverter socket is some kind of multi affair - supposed to accept different plugs. But a UK 3 pin just doesn't fit well at all. I made up a small schuko extension lead and it fits perfect.


 
The inverter socket is some kind of multi affair - supposed to accept different plugs. But a UK 3 pin just doesn't fit well at all. I made up a small schuko extension lead and it fits perfect.
Mine is fine, perfectly snug, properly seated and gripped, but only once that wretched and unnecessary upstand was removed! (and the unit inverted!)
 
The inverter socket is some kind of multi affair - supposed to accept different plugs. But a UK 3 pin just doesn't fit well at all. I made up a small schuko extension lead and it fits perfect.





This is my neat little work around that doesn't require any DIY to the inverter socket. Snug fit and gives 2 UK sockets on a short lead. (Don't overload it - the inverter is only 300W & don't leave it connected when not in use). Cable tidy and just sits neatly in the pocket on the side of the passenger seat.

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OK, thanks very much indeed for everyone's contributions.

I think based on the evidence, the thoughts of my electrical engineer friend (who has similar equipment on a boat), and of my own experience admittedly with just one appliance so far, I am going to consider the driver's seat AC mains supply as 'good' for all uses from here on.

What I haven't done yet is to look to see what (if anything) the manual says about the intention and recommended use and / or restrictions for this power point - I will do this as a final check* (which should have been my first port of call I guess!).

*OK, reading of VW owner's manual now completed too - in summary, and as someone(s) said above, 'it's a proper 300W mains supply - get on and use it as such'!

Thanks; JS.

Before plugging anything in remember this in a T6 the inverter is rated up to 150watts And the T6.1 to 300 watts

A full fat home electric kettle is usually rated at 3000 watts.

A decent hair drier = 1200 to 2000 watts

GHD tongs 150watts but can have a much higher initial current draw which causes a T6 inverter to trip. (Any feedback on GHD in a T6.1 using the inverter socket?)

Anything near or over the wattage will cause the inverter to trip as the protection circuit prevents an excess current being drawn from the leisure batteries which would otherwise destroy the inverter or cause melt down.
 
GHD tongs 150watts but can have a much higher initial current draw which causes a T6 inverter to trip. (Any feedback on GHD in a T6.1 using the inverter socket?)
Bought a cheap set of 12V straighteners for £15 or so for Mrs Stuart. She says they are not that great and obviously nowhere near GHD quality, but a cheap "better than nothing" option was the feedback.

 
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