A bientôt EU

[burnercan]

There are one or two images I've seen over the years like what you describe. They are firmly burned into my head and replay every time I get on my bike. This one, through your description, I think has been added. Chilling. Be safe out there.

 

[Amarillo]

Day 306 to 311 - Krk

Google seems to know more about my whereabouts than I do. Since September 2013 Google has a record of everywhere I have been with my iPhone and it throws up some surprising results.

On our drive to Krk we came across a fatal motorbike crash. I would have said that I drove no differently before and after the incident, however, my driving was so significantly different after the crash that Google thought I had transferred from motor vehicle to bicycle.

77 miles in 2h27. Google must think I'm a pretty impressive cyclist to be able to sustain 30mph over such a distance!

This campsite is a holiday park. Our favourite feature is not the water park, or the nudist beach, or even the extensive private woodland where we can walk Meg for miles and miles off lead. It is the "Kiddies Klub". You can drop your children off at 10am and collect them at midday, and then again between 4pm and 6pm. Wow! Four hours per day child free - what a bonanza! And no extra charge...

But here is a strange thing. Clare and I were taking advantage of child free time by walking into town when we came across this:

For those of you who like me your eyesight is fading, if you zoom in on the words above the kiosk, you can see some words. They read, "fish pedicure krk". For five days, and until just this moment of writing, I have been in a perpetual state of bafflement about what it could be. But now I've worked it out - memory winding back 15 or so years and the newly opened Holiday Inn in Sanya, and I dangled my feet into a pool of water infested with piranha like creatures, which immediately started nibbling my toes. Yes, I had a "fish pedicure sanya" all those years ago. I might even have a photo of it somewhere.

Ben and Jack have gained much confidence in the water. Neither can swim yet, but I don't think it will be long now.

[you need to visit my blog to see a 2 second video of the boys swimming]

A holiday park... we were not expecting this for 19 Euros per night. The boys have been exhausted daily.

The mountains of Slovenia next, then the Dolomites and then Romansh speaking Switzerland.


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[Amarillo]

Day 312 - Krk to Bohinjska Bistrica

I had a bit of a shock when we checked out of the campsite on Krk. The equivalent of 28 Euros for washing. Washing has been a significant cost on our trip, with two excitable boys one just out of nappies and the other coming out of nappies during our trip, it has been necessary to use campsite machines regularly. Typically the charge is 3 to 5 Euros per wash, here it was 7 Euros.

Bill paid, Clare and I swam together before collecting the boys from Kiddies Klub at 12, and we left the coast, probably not to see the sea again until Calais.

As we approached the bridge between Krk and the mainland we saw an electronic sign: "NO TOLL FREE EXIT". We struggled to work out its meaning. Clare read it as "No toll-free exit" meaning there was a toll to pay; I read it as "No toll, free exit" meaning exactly the opposite. Happily, I was right, the bridge toll to Krk is paid onto the island, not off.

It was not far to the Slovenian border, and soon we were winding our way up into the mountains, climbing as high as 4,500 feet and finding snow once more. To use Slovenian motorways it is necessary to buy a vignette, the minimum period being 10 days. Our planned route from Croatia to north eastern Italy and the Dolomites would take us on one very short section of motorway. We set a route avoiding this and the need to buy a ten day vignette. A consequence of this was a very slow and bendy road, and a car sick child. Perhaps it was not worth the saving.

After Croatia's barren rocky landscape we were struck with how green and lush Slovenia is. Large open mountain meadows, where Heidi and Peter would not look out of place herding goats bare footed.

This is a stunningly beautiful country. Our campsite is in a valley, by a rapidly flowing river, between two ranges of snow capped mountains. The big downside is that rain and thunderstorms are forecast every day that we are here.


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[sapto]

Day 312 - Krk to Bohinjska Bistrica

I had a bit of a shock when we checked out of the campsite on Krk. The equivalent of 28 Euros for washing. Washing has been a significant cost on our trip, with two excitable boys one just out of nappies and the other coming out of nappies during our trip, it has been necessary to use campsite machines regularly. Typically the charge is 3 to 5 Euros per wash, here it was 7 Euros.

Bill paid, Clare and I swam together before collecting the boys from Kiddies Klub at 12, and we left the coast, probably not to see the sea again until Calais.

As we approached the bridge between Krk and the mainland we saw an electronic sign: "NO TOLL FREE EXIT". We struggled to work out its meaning. Clare read it as "No toll-free exit" meaning there was a toll to pay; I read it as "No toll, free exit" meaning exactly the opposite. Happily, I was right, the bridge toll to Krk is paid onto the island, not off.

It was not far to the Slovenian border, and soon we were winding our way up into the mountains, climbing as high as 4,500 feet and finding snow once more. To use Slovenian motorways it is necessary to buy a vignette, the minimum period being 10 days. Our planned route from Croatia to north eastern Italy and the Dolomites would take us on one very short section of motorway. We set a route avoiding this and the need to buy a ten day vignette. A consequence of this was a very slow and bendy road, and a car sick child. Perhaps it was not worth the saving.

After Croatia's barren rocky landscape we were struck with how green and lush Slovenia is. Large open mountain meadows, where Heidi and Peter would not look out of place herding goats bare footed.

This is a stunningly beautiful country. Our campsite is in a valley, by a rapidly flowing river, between two ranges of snow capped mountains. The big downside is that rain and thunderstorms are forecast every day that we are here.


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu

As always: great report! Love to read it! What‘s the name of the campsite? Sounds like somewhere near the Soca River?

 

[Amarillo]

As always: great report! Love to read it! What‘s the name of the campsite? Sounds like somewhere near the Soca River?

Camp Danica, Triglavska cesta 60, 4264 Bohinjska Bistrica, Slovenia.

I will describe the campsite and our activities the night before we leave.


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[sapto]

Camp Danica, Triglavska cesta 60, 4264 Bohinjska Bistrica, Slovenia.

I will describe the campsite and our activities the night before we leave.


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu

Thank you! Been there last autumn! One of our best stops in Slovenia.
Enjoy your stay!

 

[Loz]

Last time we came back through Slovenian hills into the Italian Alps, we got messed about by the border post who were claiming it was only for locals and that we had to use the main road...
But after we got though we drove up the Stelvio pass and on to Sexten and an amazing campsite in the Dolomites https://www.caravanparksexten.it/en/caravan-park/camping/camping.html

 

[Amarillo]

Last time we came back through Slovenian hills into the Italian Alps, we got messed about by the border post who were claiming it was only for locals and that we had to use the main road...
But after we got though we drove up the Stelvio pass and on to Sexten and an amazing campsite in the Dolomites https://www.caravanparksexten.it/en/caravan-park/camping/camping.html

I've had a look and I think we are likely to stay a little to the east of Sexton at a site which takes ASCI Camping Card.

Sexton: €44.50 pn excl hookup
Sappada: €19 pn inc hookup

It is sad, but we've missed two classic passes due to it being too early in the season and then being closed: Transfagarasan and Stelvio.


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[Amarillo]

Day 313 & 314 – Bohinjska Bistrica

Our campsite is between two snow capped mountain ranges, and between two lakes, Lake Bohinj 8km to the west and Lake Bled 20Km to the northeast.

We have visited this part of Slovenia before - Clare and I spent a night of our honeymoon in an apartment overlooking Lake Bled. We cycled twice around the lake before breakfast on our tandem before having breakfast at the campsite. We were intending to revisit Bled and stay on the campsite there, but are glad we followed the advice of fellow travellers and came here.

Passing through the campsite is a pristine cycle path that follows the meanders of Sava Bohinjka to Lake Bohinj. Irresistible. We cycled to the lake, Ben on his own bike and Jack on the Brompton child seat, and Meg happily trotting alongside. The lake is picture perfect.

And that's me looking yonder.

Ben stripped off and went paddling with Meg, and Jack dangled a stick (which he called a fishing rod) into the water to catch the trout we could see in their dozens. The water must have been freezing, but Ben was happy splashing about. After our picnic lunch some ducks waddled up, and there was a three way battle to get the bread we threw in: trout, mallards and Meg (who also had an eye for the mallards).

Then the thunder battle commenced. Storms formed over the mountains either side of the valley, and they each competed for supremacy over the valley below, casting thunderbolts at one another, careless of the beleaguered cyclists and dog below. Soaked to the bone we rolled back into our campsite just as an armistice was declared and the storms retreated behind their mountains.

Pork chops and fried potatoes for dinner.

Meg has found a playmate on the campsite, Lizzie.

Similar ages, Meg will chase Lizzie chasing her ball. Endlessly.

With more rain forecast for the next day we went to the aquapark, at €16 for a family ticket it was a bit expensive, but we had fun, and there were two amazing water slides. I took Ben up the lower one, and we found ourselves shooting down together at about Mach 2, bum burning up, before the soothing cool of splashdown. The lower one was the fast one, only suitable for children 12+. Rules are flexible in Slovenia, and, apparently, over 4 years is close enough to 12. Next the high one, much more sedate, but in a pitch dark tunnel. This was for children age 10+, so perfectly suitable for Ben - but no, he wanted to do the fast one again...


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[leightonjthomas]

Day 313 & 314 – Bohinjska Bistrica

Our campsite is between two snow capped mountain ranges, and between two lakes, Lake Bohinj 8km to the west and Lake Bled 20Km to the northeast.

We have visited this part of Slovenia before - Clare and I spent a night of our honeymoon in an apartment overlooking Lake Bled. We cycled twice around the lake before breakfast on our tandem before having breakfast at the campsite. We were intending to revisit Bled and stay on the campsite there, but are glad we followed the advice of fellow travellers and came here.

Passing through the campsite is a pristine cycle path that follows the meanders of Sava Bohinjka to Lake Bohinj. Irresistible. We cycled to the lake, Ben on his own bike and Jack on the Brompton child seat, and Meg happily trotting alongside. The lake is picture perfect.

And that's me looking yonder.

Ben stripped off and went paddling with Meg, and Jack dangled a stick (which he called a fishing rod) into the water to catch the trout we could see in their dozens. The water must have been freezing, but Ben was happy splashing about. After our picnic lunch some ducks waddled up, and there was a three way battle to get the bread we threw in: trout, mallards and Meg (who also had an eye for the mallards).

Then the thunder battle commenced. Storms formed over the mountains either side of the valley, and they each competed for supremacy over the valley below, casting thunderbolts at one another, careless of the beleaguered cyclists and dog below. Soaked to the bone we rolled back into our campsite just as an armistice was declared and the storms retreated behind their mountains.

Pork chops and fried potatoes for dinner.

Meg has found a playmate on the campsite, Lizzie.

Similar ages, Meg will chase Lizzie chasing her ball. Endlessly.

With more rain forecast for the next day we went to the aquapark, at €16 for a family ticket it was a bit expensive, but we had fun, and there were two amazing water slides. I took Ben up the lower one, and we found ourselves shooting down together at about Mach 2, bum burning up, before the soothing cool of splashdown. The lower one was the fast one, only suitable for children 12+. Rules are flexible in Slovenia, and, apparently, over 4 years is close enough to 12. Next the high one, much more sedate, but in a pitch dark tunnel. This was for children age 10+, so perfectly suitable for Ben - but no, he wanted to do the fast one again...


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu

What a great post Tom- I feel as if we’re there with you. Your trip must have the basis for a novel!

 

[Amarillo]

Your trip must have the basis for a novel!

I need to find something to do when we get home!

 

[Velma's Dad]

Great report. We've been just there where you are and it's indeed truly gorgeous.

I assume you're going at some point to do the Vršič Pass mountain road - Route 206 - between Kranjska Gora and Bovec? (If you haven't done that already.) It's a stunning drive and also fascinating for having been built in just a couple of years by Russian POW labour during the First World War. There's a very poignant tiny wooden chapel and memorial towards the top of the pass, to several hundred of them who were killed in avalanches during the works.

As a Brit, I must admit I'd been pretty dim about the WWI military campaigns between the Italians and the Austrians in that corner of Europe (known as the Soška Front), but the fighting was protracted and brutal. The museum in Kobarid tells the story very well... although you'll be the judge of whether your younglings are up for that kind of stuff.

 

[Amarillo]

I assume you're going at some point to do the Vršič Pass mountain road - Route 206 - between Kranjska Gora and Bovec? (If you haven't done that already.) It's a stunning drive and also fascinating for having been built in just a couple of years by Russian POW labour during the First World War. There's a very poignant tiny wooden chapel and memorial towards the top of the pass, to several hundred of them who were killed in avalanches during the works.

Just now- you posted just in time to adapt our route.

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[Velma's Dad]

So don't get stuck in the snow or I'll feel guilty!

Enjoy the drive!!

[EDIT: I'm loving the experience of directing a little yellow VW van around central Europe, at my whim, from my desk in the Chilterns. I have a fluffy white cat on my knees as I type...]

 

[AlanC]

So don't get stuck in the snow or I'll feel guilty!

Enjoy the drive!!

[EDIT: I'm loving the experience of directing a little yellow VW van around central Europe, at my whim, from my desk in the Chilterns. I have a fluffy white cat on my knees as I type...]

Ahh! Mister Bond...

 

[Amarillo]

So don't get stuck in the snow or I'll feel guilty!

Enjoy the drive!!

[EDIT: I'm loving the experience of directing a little yellow VW van around central Europe, at my whim, from my desk in the Chilterns. I have a fluffy white cat on my knees as I type...]

You can see the detour here:

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[Velma's Dad]

I already knew that, mwa hah ha. That cool box you've been carrying across Europe for 11 months actually has a tiny tracking device built into its base (you're low on milk, by the way).

My name is Blofeld but you can call me Ernst Stavro.

Seriously, will be great to see your reports from the Dolomites, We were headed that direction a couple of weeks ago but diverted north as the weather looked iffy there. But will be in Alps in Aug and this time will be aiming for where you're going now.

 

[Amarillo]

(you're low on milk, by the way).

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[Velma's Dad]

So you think funny. You are a kite dancing in a hurricane Mr Amarillo.

As you now know my true identity, I have discarded my former avatar disguise.

 

[Amarillo]

Day 315 – Bohinjska Bistrica to Rasen-Antholz

We were late getting up, so while I packed Clare and the boys went to the site's bar for tea and hot chocolate. Our first stop of the day was at the bakery just over the river for a selection of cakes.

And then we headed east, away from our destination, and towards Lake Bled, not out of choice, but because there was no pass over the mountains to the west. Seeing Bled we were pleased that we stayed where we did, Bled is very touristy.

We then stopped at a small Spar shop for lunch items, and while Clare was shopping I checked my phone. Someone following our blog suggested the Vršič Pass. It was a bit of a detour but close enough to our route.

The Vršič Pass is the highest pass in Slovenia, and the road was built by about ten thousand Russian prisoners of war in 1915. There is a Russian Orthodox chapel commemorating the many POW's killed during the road's construction. The surface on each of the road's hairpin bends is cobbles.

We stopped briefly at the top of the pass to throw snowballs and to walk Meg before descending to the Italian border only to find the border post abandoned due to it being lunch time. Slithering through an empty border post made a refreshing change after the stringent checks we faced at the Greek/Bulgarian, Bulgarian/Romanian, Romanian/Hungarian, Hungarian/Croatian and Croatian/Slovenian borders. Our passports can now be tucked away until we reach Calais.

Nothing much changed from one side of the border to the other, that is until we passed into South Tyrol when everything became Germanic.

We have explored Italy as comprehensively as any country on our trip. We entered Italy on 20 November 2017, and ignoring our forays into San Marino and The Vatican City, left the country 78 days later on 6 February. We zig-zagged down the country, crossing it five times. The mountains of rubbish in Naples and Sicily have been the biggest detractor, the generosity of the people the greatest attractor. Here it is different. The streets are clean and the people aloof. We arrived late at our campsite and decided to have a pizza in the local town. The waitress showed us to a table, but continually chided Ben and Jack for touching things on the table or the shelf behind. She then tried to move us to a smaller table, then when we were about to move told us not to bother moving. The two pizzas arrived promptly, but without the ordered salad. We arrived, we ate, we left. Beautiful, clean and well ordered, but not the generosity we experienced further south.


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[Amarillo]

Day 316 – Rasen-Antholz

At over 1000m, higher than any mountain in England, there is a chill on this campsite at night. But days are warm enough.

Like our last campsite, there is an irresistible cycle path running past. We took it to see where it would lead, and as before Ben cycling solo, Jack on a child seat and Meg trotting, and sometimes galloping, alongside.

Through the sweetly scented pine forest with the bright green hue of new growth on the tips of each branch. Past open wild flower meadows, buttercups, forget-me-nots, dandelions and cow parsley with a translucent bloom of dandelion clocks rising above, seeds drifting carelessly in the breeze. Bees hard at work. Jagged mountain ridges framing the horizon, with gullies highlighted in white streaks of snow.

We passed villages, wooden chalets with their deep eves and churches with tall narrow church clock towers topped by an octagonal pyramid.

IMG_1722

Unlike the cycle path to Lake Bohinj, this was steeply undulating, following the course of a fast flowing river at the bottom of a shallow ravine. Ben managed remarkably well on his gearless bike - he is so ready for gears, at just four years old!

We came across a sports centre by the river with a large playground. Just the place to stop for a rest, snack and a play.

The return ride was harder, more uphill and we had to push our bikes for short sections. By one of the meadows we met an apiarist tending his hives, opening each one with a puff of smoke, removing a single rack of perfect hexagonal comb, brushing away bees with naked fingers, his hat and face protection put aside as if in France where wearing a veil in public is criminal behaviour. He spoke in a thick accented German I probably would not have understood even had I paid attention in my German classes at school. He gestured for Ben and Jack to come forward and hacked off a chunk of comb for them to taste before taking each boy forward individually to peer into the hive, bees kept docile with another puff of smoke.

Pizza last night, spaghetti bolognese tonight marks our two night stop in Italy this time.


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[Bill R]

Day 316 – Rasen-Antholz

At over 1000m, higher than any mountain in England, there is a chill on this campsite at night. But days are warm enough.

Like our last campsite, there is an irresistible cycle path running past. We took it to see where it would lead, and as before Ben cycling solo, Jack on a child seat and Meg trotting, and sometimes galloping, alongside.

Through the sweetly scented pine forest with the bright green hue of new growth on the tips of each branch. Past open wild flower meadows, buttercups, forget-me-nots, dandelions and cow parsley with a translucent bloom of dandelion clocks rising above, seeds drifting carelessly in the breeze. Bees hard at work. Jagged mountain ridges framing the horizon, with gullies highlighted in white streaks of snow.

We passed villages, wooden chalets with their deep eves and churches with tall narrow church clock towers topped by an octagonal pyramid.

IMG_1722

Unlike the cycle path to Lake Bohinj, this was steeply undulating, following the course of a fast flowing river at the bottom of a shallow ravine. Ben managed remarkably well on his gearless bike - he is so ready for gears, at just four years old!

We came across a sports centre by the river with a large playground. Just the place to stop for a rest, snack and a play.

The return ride was harder, more uphill and we had to push our bikes for short sections. By one of the meadows we met an apiarist tending his hives, opening each one with a puff of smoke, removing a single rack of perfect hexagonal comb, brushing away bees with naked fingers, his hat and face protection put aside as if in France where wearing a veil in public is criminal behaviour. He spoke in a thick accented German I probably would not have understood even had I paid attention in my German classes at school. He gestured for Ben and Jack to come forward and hacked off a chunk of comb for them to taste before taking each boy forward individually to peer into the hive, bees kept docile with another puff of smoke.

Pizza last night, spaghetti bolognese tonight marks our two night stop in Italy this time.


Follow my blog: www.au-revoir.eu

You are getting more and more poetic with those scene setting descriptions !

 

[T6 CFO]

I see some book writing practice in your last post. Good stuff

Mike

 

[Amarillo]

Day 317 – Rasen-Antholz to Müstair

In 1976 my parents, three brothers and I visited this part of the Alps on a camping holiday. We camped in Naturns near Meran but I recognised nothing as we passed through. The town was very busy with tourists and traffic as we passed through.

We had a bit of a shock today. We had last filled up with diesel in Croatia at €1.28 per litre. Today the fuel in Italy was €1.88! And we had managed only 32 mpg from the last tank. We have been getting over 40 mpg from previous tanks. 16 cents per Km on mountainous roads with Italian fuel compared with 8 cents per Km with Croatian fuel.

There were light border checks crossing into Switzerland. No passports required but we were asked if we had anything to declare. I suspect they were really looking for migrants...

Switzerland is not part of the Customs Union, but accepts free movement of people and most EU law. It contributes 130 Euros per person to the EU compared to 149 Euros per person from the British (net contribution). It is a model the UK could adopt outside the Customs Union if the British are willing to accept free movement of people, most EU law and substantial contributions to the EU budget as a compromise.

Müstair is a Romansh speaking part of Switzerland. The country has four official languages (others are German, French and Italian), and Romansh is spoken by just 0.6% of the population. Although it is an official language, it is only the 10th most widely spoken: as well as German, French and Italian- English, Portuguese, Albanian, Croatian, Spanish and Turkish are the mother toungue to more people living in Switzerland than Romansh.

Müstair is high. At an elevation of 1273 metres it is higher than all but four mountains in the UK. This makes it chilly. But it is amazingly bueatiful, surrounded by snow capped mountains.

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[Amarillo]

You are getting more and more poetic with those scene setting descriptions !

I'm getting the wee wee taken out of me when driving, "Are you drifting carelessly on the road?" I get asked if I hit the rumble strip.


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