Confused re battery replacement.

pchmlk

pchmlk

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Location
Surrey
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
My starter battery requires replacement (2014 SE 140 bluemotion).

Garage quoted thick end of £400 so I’ve ordered a replacement online a Yuasa YBX5019 12v 100Ah SMF.

Now, recoding, missed messages on here - cam I just put the new battery in and if so, any particular procedure?

Thanks for any advice.
 
My starter battery requires replacement (2014 SE 140 bluemotion).

Garage quoted thick end of £400 so I’ve ordered a replacement online a Yuasa YBX5019 12v 100Ah SMF.

Now, recoding, missed messages on here - cam I just put the new battery in and if so, any particular procedure?

Thanks for any advice.
Yes, you can just put the new battery in as is.

Safety
- disconnect the negative terminal first.
- when keeping the terminal cables aside, ensure that the positive one does not touch the body. I just put a plastic glove over it to keep it safe.

Enjoy!
 
And definitely no recoding required?!
You can get away without re-coding as long as the new battery matches the original one in spec. So most importantly the same type was the original AGM or not and does the new one match if not it needs a re-code. Is it the same capacity Ah. If not it should probably be re-coded but might be ok.
 
In theory you should tell the van you’ve changed the battery for the smart battery charging etc but I didn’t and the battery is going strong years later.
 
Hmm so I’ve bought a slightly larger AH battery. I’ve gone down a OBD2 rabbit hole now. Maybe my local garage can code for me instead.
 
Hmm so I’ve bought a slightly larger AH battery. I’ve gone down a OBD2 rabbit hole now. Maybe my local garage can code for me instead.
It's probably safer if you have changed capacity to get it coded, it might get confused otherwise when choosing how to drive the smart alternator and engage start-stop. As I said I think most important is battery type, AGM or std lead acid because they are charged at different voltages so can cause physical damage if wrong. The capacity would be better because it probably decides things based upon it but less likely to cause physical damage. After that the only other reason is to apparently reset the charging profile to match a new battery, but I think that last one is not that important it will eventually sort itself out. I think you need a reasonably high end obd to cover battery recoding, or a specific one for battery stuff.
 
Thanks all. I’ll get an obd2 scanner and code it myself I think, good advice.
 
It's probably safer if you have changed capacity to get it coded, it might get confused otherwise when choosing how to drive the smart alternator and engage start-stop. As I said I think most important is battery type, AGM or std lead acid because they are charged at different voltages so can cause physical damage if wrong. The capacity would be better because it probably decides things based upon it but less likely to cause physical damage. After that the only other reason is to apparently reset the charging profile to match a new battery, but I think that last one is not that important it will eventually sort itself out. I think you need a reasonably high end obd to cover battery recoding, or a specific one for battery stuff.
Agree with all of above.

Just clarify.

The BMS (Battery Monitoring System) is the ECU (Black cube) on the Battery Negative, it measures both Voltage Current (in & out) & it also has state of health monitors. The BMS data is used to determine the State of Charge, charge profile required - in turn things like the (SOC) State of Charge will be used to determine if Auto-Stop start is disabled or not. Also charge balance (is the car drawing from the battery even when driving, high load situations) .

So it is important that the system knows the size (capacity) of the battery and the correct technology, (AGM / Flooded) so that the base calculations are correct.

If a like for like battery is fitted (size/type) , then it is only the state of health that is changes and the system will recalibrate over a few sleep cycles, so it very rapidly does a reset, like a dealer may or may not do when a battery is changed. This is the same if someone connects a charger directly to the two battery posts, bypassing the current sensing of the BMS. The system will detect a SOC change and a voltage change, but won't detect current going into the battery, so the recalibration also resolves this.

A
 
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Similar question arose in a different thread.
This is my experience.

 
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