Confused re battery replacement.

pchmlk

pchmlk

VIP Member
Messages
425
Location
Surrey
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
My starter battery requires replacement (2014 SE 140 bluemotion).

Garage quoted thick end of £400 so I’ve ordered a replacement online a Yuasa YBX5019 12v 100Ah SMF.

Now, recoding, missed messages on here - cam I just put the new battery in and if so, any particular procedure?

Thanks for any advice.
 
pchmlk said:
My starter battery requires replacement (2014 SE 140 bluemotion).

Garage quoted thick end of £400 so I’ve ordered a replacement online a Yuasa YBX5019 12v 100Ah SMF.

Now, recoding, missed messages on here - cam I just put the new battery in and if so, any particular procedure?

Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
Yes, you can just put the new battery in as is.

Safety
- disconnect the negative terminal first.
- when keeping the terminal cables aside, ensure that the positive one does not touch the body. I just put a plastic glove over it to keep it safe.

Enjoy!
 
pchmlk said:
And definitely no recoding required?!
Click to expand...
You can get away without re-coding as long as the new battery matches the original one in spec. So most importantly the same type was the original AGM or not and does the new one match if not it needs a re-code. Is it the same capacity Ah. If not it should probably be re-coded but might be ok.
 
In theory you should tell the van you’ve changed the battery for the smart battery charging etc but I didn’t and the battery is going strong years later.
 
Hmm so I’ve bought a slightly larger AH battery. I’ve gone down a OBD2 rabbit hole now. Maybe my local garage can code for me instead.
 
pchmlk said:
Hmm so I’ve bought a slightly larger AH battery. I’ve gone down a OBD2 rabbit hole now. Maybe my local garage can code for me instead.
Click to expand...
It's probably safer if you have changed capacity to get it coded, it might get confused otherwise when choosing how to drive the smart alternator and engage start-stop. As I said I think most important is battery type, AGM or std lead acid because they are charged at different voltages so can cause physical damage if wrong. The capacity would be better because it probably decides things based upon it but less likely to cause physical damage. After that the only other reason is to apparently reset the charging profile to match a new battery, but I think that last one is not that important it will eventually sort itself out. I think you need a reasonably high end obd to cover battery recoding, or a specific one for battery stuff.
 
pchmlk said:
Hmm so I’ve bought a slightly larger AH battery. I’ve gone down a OBD2 rabbit hole now. Maybe my local garage can code for me instead.
Click to expand...
Carista will recode. Useful gadget to have.
 
Thanks all. I’ll get an obd2 scanner and code it myself I think, good advice.
 
Steve1 said:
It's probably safer if you have changed capacity to get it coded, it might get confused otherwise when choosing how to drive the smart alternator and engage start-stop. As I said I think most important is battery type, AGM or std lead acid because they are charged at different voltages so can cause physical damage if wrong. The capacity would be better because it probably decides things based upon it but less likely to cause physical damage. After that the only other reason is to apparently reset the charging profile to match a new battery, but I think that last one is not that important it will eventually sort itself out. I think you need a reasonably high end obd to cover battery recoding, or a specific one for battery stuff.
Click to expand...
Agree with all of above.

Just clarify.

The BMS (Battery Monitoring System) is the ECU (Black cube) on the Battery Negative, it measures both Voltage Current (in & out) & it also has state of health monitors. The BMS data is used to determine the State of Charge, charge profile required - in turn things like the (SOC) State of Charge will be used to determine if Auto-Stop start is disabled or not. Also charge balance (is the car drawing from the battery even when driving, high load situations) .

So it is important that the system knows the size (capacity) of the battery and the correct technology, (AGM / Flooded) so that the base calculations are correct.

If a like for like battery is fitted (size/type) , then it is only the state of health that is changes and the system will recalibrate over a few sleep cycles, so it very rapidly does a reset, like a dealer may or may not do when a battery is changed. This is the same if someone connects a charger directly to the two battery posts, bypassing the current sensing of the BMS. The system will detect a SOC change and a voltage change, but won't detect current going into the battery, so the recalibration also resolves this.

A
 
Last edited:
Similar question arose in a different thread.
This is my experience.

vwcaliforniaclub.com

New battery

After 7 1/2 years and 95,000 miles our engine battery has come to the end of its life and needs replacing. VW are quoting £331 to supply and fit. Kwik Fit are quoting £290 The local parts’ shop is quoting £245 - Varta 80Ah 580 901 080 Tanya batteries is £170 including delivery. How easy is it...
vwcaliforniaclub.com vwcaliforniaclub.com
 
Well that was straightforward. New 100ah battery in, replacing the existing 68ah.
Carista arrived and very easily coded the new battery to tell the car the capacity and new serial number.
No fault codes, drives perfectly. Thanks all, very pleased.
 
Well done. It's satisfying when you are able to do things like this, especially when you have the help of a whole forum. I should think that you are also showing a significant saving on those original quotes, even allowing for the cost of Carista.
 
Vagophile said:
Well done. It's satisfying when you are able to do things like this, especially when you have the help of a whole forum. I should think that you are also showing a significant saving on those original quotes, even allowing for the cost of Carista.
Click to expand...
Saved £200 and have a better battery.
 
If anyone searches in the future…here’s what to do.

Buy a Carista - just the basic £30 one is fine.
I needed to remove the battery insulation as the new battery is significantly wider.

Remove neg terminal first. Then positive.
Replace battery and positive first then negative back on.

Plug jn carista and turn ignition on. Ignore all the warning lights. Run a diagnostic and clear the error codes. Go to servicing and battery and simply add the new capacity and serial number and you’re good to go.

You do need to buy a carista subscription but can either cancel within 2 weeks or keep it and continue playing. I’m going to have a longer play tomorrow and change some settings and then decide whether to keep it or not.
 
pchmlk said:
If anyone searches in the future…here’s what to do.

Buy a Carista - just the basic £30 one is fine.
I needed to remove the battery insulation as the new battery is significantly wider.

Remove neg terminal first. Then positive.
Replace battery and positive first then negative back on.

Plug jn carista and turn ignition on. Ignore all the warning lights. Run a diagnostic and clear the error codes. Go to servicing and battery and simply add the new capacity and serial number and you’re good to go.

You do need to buy a carista subscription but can either cancel within 2 weeks or keep it and continue playing. I’m going to have a longer play tomorrow and change some settings and then decide whether to keep it or not.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Good note for posterity.

On the Carista changes, three that I have liked:
1. Speedo and Odo needle sweep on startup (just for style)
2. Door auto lock at 10 mph (for security)
3. Additional Wiper swiper after the initial three swipes (I think it is three) (useful to wipe away any water residue)

Enjoy playing with the Carista.
 
pchmlk said:
If anyone searches in the future…here’s what to do.

Buy a Carista - just the basic £30 one is fine.
I needed to remove the battery insulation as the new battery is significantly wider.

Remove neg terminal first. Then positive.
Replace battery and positive first then negative back on.

Plug jn carista and turn ignition on. Ignore all the warning lights. Run a diagnostic and clear the error codes. Go to servicing and battery and simply add the new capacity and serial number and you’re good to go.

You do need to buy a carista subscription but can either cancel within 2 weeks or keep it and continue playing. I’m going to have a longer play tomorrow and change some settings and then decide whether to keep it or not.
Click to expand...
Nice one.
We have similar aged Cali’s. I find the Carista a great gadget in the glovebox. It has identified a number of sensors that have popped and I’ve reset airbags, abs sensors, etc. Think I pay about £35 per year - great value.
 
Oh Lord! I never thought about any of this stuff. Just took old one out, put new one in just like I have done since the 1960s. Never even heard of the need to recode. All been going perfectly since the change 4 years ago. Likewise the domestic batteries. Absolutely no problem. Perhaps I've just been lucky. I think I did ensure I was replacing like for like. :)
 
pchmlk said:
If anyone searches in the future…here’s what to do.

Buy a Carista - just the basic £30 one is fine.
I needed to remove the battery insulation as the new battery is significantly wider.

Remove neg terminal first. Then positive.
Replace battery and positive first then negative back on.

Plug jn carista and turn ignition on. Ignore all the warning lights. Run a diagnostic and clear the error codes. Go to servicing and battery and simply add the new capacity and serial number and you’re good to go.

You do need to buy a carista subscription but can either cancel within 2 weeks or keep it and continue playing. I’m going to have a longer play tomorrow and change some settings and then decide whether to keep it or not.
Click to expand...
Would you have a link to the Carista, please?
TIA
 
mountainman said:
Oh Lord! I never thought about any of this stuff. Just took old one out, put new one in just like I have done since the 1960s. Never even heard of the need to recode. All been going perfectly since the change 4 years ago. Likewise the domestic batteries. Absolutely no problem. Perhaps I've just been lucky. I think I did ensure I was replacing like for like. :)
Click to expand...
It wouldn't have occurred to me that you couldn’t just put a new one in if I hadn’t been researching battery suggestions on here to be honest. That and a £400 quote from a garage to replace and recode…!!
 
Yes. £400 is ridiculous. That would certainly have had me looking for alternatives.
 
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