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Cool box does not stop cooling

The2rB

The2rB

VIP Member
Messages
27
Location
Norway
Vehicle
T4 PopTop
Have anyone else had problems with their cool box, or have any idea.

The cool box is one originally installed in my 2001 T4 California.

If I set the cool box to e.g. 4 deg. C. it just keeps cooling.
Dropped a thermometer in, and I turned it off when it reached -18 deg. C.
That's deep freeze - not always convenient...

Guess it is either the sensor or the thermostat.
Does anyone know where to start looking, and how to find out where the problem is located?
Are parts are easy to get hold of?


Thanks in advance for any help given.
 
We had the opposite problem with our old 1996 Cali. It never came on at all! We tracked it down through the diagnostic mode of the control panel. This can tell you what temperature it thinks is in the cool box. In our case it thought -22 degrees C at all times. It was a faulty thermistor (temperature sensor) in the cool box compartment. Try a search and you should find a diagnostic guide for the cool box. I fixed ours with a new thermistor which cost £2. If you think it is the sensor, I can find out which one I ordered from Farnell. It takes 20 minutes to solder a new one in place and seal it in a bit of silicone sealant.

One thing may be the sensor has shorted out? This causes the cooling to run continuously if memory serves. Let me find the links...
 
Hi.
Thanks for the information.
Been in Denmark on a work related trip, so haven't been able to answer earlier.

Never thought to look for a diagnostic mode for the control panel.
I'll search for a "how to", and see what information I'll get.
This should give me a lot to work with - so that I'll be closer to identifying the problem.

Thanks for helping.
 
Thanks.
Just what I needed to start with.

Strange thing is that the fridge seem to work today...
Guess I'll keep it running during daytime over the next week to check that it isn't a one time happening... Just waiting for the heavy rain to stop...
Is it possible that entering the diagnostic menu reset the settings, and made it work ok again? (thinking out loud)

That site have some other great documentation for things next in line to be fixed. (Water tank leveler.)
 
rupertpoon said:
....I fixed ours with a new thermistor which cost £2. If you think it is the sensor, I can find out which one I ordered from Farnell. It takes 20 minutes to solder a new one in place and seal it in a bit of silicone sealant....
I have exactly the same problem and would really appreciate info on which thermistor it is you bought, if possible.
Thanks in advance.
 
Could someone add details of this part to the Useful Info thread, it might help owners who have this problem in the future.

viewtopic.php?f=106&t=5207

Thanks,
dan
 
I am still struggling with this same problem, any info on the best place to get a replacement thermocouple would help me out a lot.

Thanks in advance.
 
Sorry - forgot to report back here after testing it over the summer.

My cool box seem to have started working after complaining in here.
It does not seem to be totally consistent in keeping the temperature, but I guess that I have to live with some variation...(?)

If it got fixed when I entered the service-menu to check what temperature it reported, or if it is just temporarily working - I don't know.

Will keep you all posted if I ever figure out something smart.
 
nobbysnuts said:
I am still struggling with this same problem, any info on the best place to get a replacement thermocouple would help me out a lot.

Thanks in advance.

I finally got mine from Dometic in Luxembourg. It's now fitted and the fridge works properly again. You need to send an email to jonny.schildermans@dometic.com and say that you need part number 296.9711.01. It cost 20 euros + 15 euros postage.
/Paul
 
thanks for the valuable info, I will look into doing this very soon to sort out my fridge for my summer beers.
 
I am clearly not alone in suffering this problem then. Our pragmatic solution is to turn the fridge off at night, which also then avoids a humming noise in my wife's ear. She uses the earplugs because of other, far louder night time noise (!!!).
 
To fix my T4 California fridge, I replaced the thermistor (a type of sensor) in the main fridge compartment. It is on the end of a white cable, which is the only one in the compartment. The thermistor was a 500 ohm negative temperature coefficient (NTC). I ordered it from Farnell electronics in the UK. The manufacturer's part number is 02C5000JF and the link is http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-dale/02c50 ... dp/1439206 . It costs 1 pound! . It only fixes fridges where the diagnostics tell you the fridge temperature is stuck at -22C.

Hope this helps everyone who has fridge problems
 
Thank you for taking the time to pass this information on I am really grateful as I have been struggling to find out more about this. :D
 
Im wondering if anyone can help me?

The other day mine stopped working after the battery went below 12v overnight. I thought it would work again after a charge but it hasn't. Also on mains hook up too it wont work. Ive been around a couple of posts and this is what I've done so far

> The compressor and fan all seem to be running (see below)
> Ive had the controller set to a range of temperatures but still nothing
> Ive ran the controller self test and its showing a temperature value from the fridge sensor. Ive also measured over the plug which was just over 500 ohms and good according to the german guide
> Shorted out the sensor wires and the controller shows 75 so the wiring back to the controller is ok.

Has anyone had their fridge simply run out of gas? Im wondering if thats all it needs. Ive seen online you can still get hold of the original fridge but its over €800

 
Im wondering if anyone can help me?

The other day mine stopped working after the battery went below 12v overnight. I thought it would work again after a charge but it hasn't. Also on mains hook up too it wont work. Ive been around a couple of posts and this is what I've done so far

> The compressor and fan all seem to be running (see below)
> Ive had the controller set to a range of temperatures but still nothing
> Ive ran the controller self test and its showing a temperature value from the fridge sensor. Ive also measured over the plug which was just over 500 ohms and good according to the german guide
> Shorted out the sensor wires and the controller shows 75 so the wiring back to the controller is ok.

Has anyone had their fridge simply run out of gas? Im wondering if thats all it needs. Ive seen online you can still get hold of the original fridge but its over €800

Can you hear the Refrigerant gurgling away?

This might be of help.
https://fridgeman.wordpress.com/2008/06/08/simple-ways-to-know-if-your-fridge-is-low-on-freon/
 
Cheers for that link :thumb

Its not easy to get in but ill give it a good listen.
I can hear mine just with an ear pressed up against the cabinet. run it for awhile then switch off and listen.

There should also be a temperature difference on the coil/heat exchanger if it is working at all.
 
I can hear mine just with an ear pressed up against the cabinet. run it for awhile then switch off and listen.

There should also be a temperature difference on the coil/heat exchanger if it is working at all.
Its hard to tell but the compressor is warm and the exchanger just feels a little cooler than the surroundings but not much.

I got underneath and cleared out the vents too but that hasnt helped either so far.
 
I've translated the german test sequence as follows:

Kuhlbox not cool
6. Disconnect the 230 volt connection
(For example, operated circuit breaker off).
Switch off all consumers.
Self test program by simultaneously
Approx. 5 sec pressing the keys:
With the call to test 10. erfolgtem
Forced Start the cooler.
Published in the display:
(4.5 Amp. Or greater) is the cooler in order.
Published in the display:
(0.1 Amp.) Is the electronics of the cooling
box or the supply of electronics
malfunction/

Mine is only showing 3A on startup and then down to 2.5A which is is lower than stated. I wonder if anyone has tested theirs recently for a reading to compare with?
 
Its hard to tell but the compressor is warm and the exchanger just feels a little cooler than the surroundings but not much.

I got underneath and cleared out the vents too but that hasnt helped either so far.
As the compressor is running continuously and you have checked the temperature sensor is working properly, then I would presume the fridge control box controller circuitry is ok. That leaves, in my opinion 2 possible causes, 1. Compressor is not compressing or 2. No refrigerant to compress.

Please note, I'm no expert on fridges.
 
As the compressor is running continuously and you have checked the temperature sensor is working properly, then I would presume the fridge control box controller circuitry is ok. That leaves, in my opinion 2 possible causes, 1. Compressor is not compressing or 2. No refrigerant to compress.

Please note, I'm no expert on fridges.
Me too! Im a tiffy by trade so I love industrial control systems but Ive never fiddled with the gubbins of a fridge before. Theres a local air conditioning specialist who might be able to help hopefully.
 
I thought the fridge was 50W therefore around 4A.

I'm no expert but I'd assume if you've lost refrigerant then the compressor won't be working so hard and therefore be pulling less juice, 3A as opposed to 4+
 
Well it's out now and off to a refrigerant expert in the next valley so hopefully they can fix it
e03a42348b6dad4cabf158cfe93c11f4.jpg
 
ArcticMatt did you ever get an expert opinion on the fridge? I have a similar situation with the fridge apparently running but no cooling happening. And the sensor seems to be reading right. Wondering if it's worth pulling the whole thing out to send away or whether I should start off by having the electrical control unit tested instead. Be interested to hear your experiences.
 
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