Does £800 sound about right including new loom to fix roof sensor issue?

DOMINICGG1234

DOMINICGG1234

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Messages
99
Location
Chichester
Vehicle
T5 SE 140
Hi all. Been qu’outra the above for a new loom inc three hours labour to fix issue where I keep getting warnings the roof is open. 2012 SE.

I have no mechanical knowledge so couldn’t do it myself.

Does this sound about right?

Thanks in advance
 
There’s no need to change the loom, can be done considerably cheaper.
 
Loom replacement feels like overkill unless there is any damage or issue with the existing loom.
 
Hi all. Been qu’outra the above for a new loom inc three hours labour to fix issue where I keep getting warnings the roof is open. 2012 SE.

I have no mechanical knowledge so couldn’t do it myself.

Does this sound about right?

Thanks in advance
The VW Approved method of repair is Loom replacement as the wiring loom has the sensors built in. Others have been quoted in excess of £1200.
The cheapest repair is DIY replacement of just the sensors. Next is Sensor replacement using an Autoelectrician. Kernow Transporters, in Cornwall can replace the sensors OR bypass them and fit a Remote Control unit for about £500.
 
Hi all. Been qu’outra the above for a new loom inc three hours labour to fix issue where I keep getting warnings the roof is open. 2012 SE.

I have no mechanical knowledge so couldn’t do it myself.

Does this sound about right?

Thanks in advance
Was this a VW dealer? The reason I ask is I had this done on my 2012 SE about 2yrs ago. VW said I had to buy the whole loom, they then cut 2 sensors off it and replaced the 2 damaged ones - that was about £800. To replace the whole loom was into the £1000’s. I wanted to do it myself but the roof was locked down and didn’t have the confidence to run 12v to the motor separately. One of those things that you got to get repaired. My only regret was them not asking me if I wanted to replace all 4 which would’ve made sense.
Good luck
 
Sorry link is to a new loom on a german website + £215
 
There’s no need to change the loom, can be done considerably cheaper.
Thanks I’ve seen this but sadly I don’t have the space, time, tools or knowledge
 
The VW Approved method of repair is Loom replacement as the wiring loom has the sensors built in. Others have been quoted in excess of £1200.
The cheapest repair is DIY replacement of just the sensors. Next is Sensor replacement using an Autoelectrician. Kernow Transporters, in Cornwall can replace the sensors OR bypass them and fit a Remote Control unit for about £500.
Thanks for this. I like the sound of the remote unit. May have to look into that
 
Was this a VW dealer? The reason I ask is I had this done on my 2012 SE about 2yrs ago. VW said I had to buy the whole loom, they then cut 2 sensors off it and replaced the 2 damaged ones - that was about £800. To replace the whole loom was into the £1000’s. I wanted to do it myself but the roof was locked down and didn’t have the confidence to run 12v to the motor separately. One of those things that you got to get repaired. My only regret was them not asking me if I wanted to replace all 4 which would’ve made sense.
Good luck
No this is with a garage recommended on here. Maybe I need to do a bit more research as no point having a new loom if they are just going to cut the sensors off
 
Noted. It gives you an idea of price / size and connections. Its looks a fairly simple loom
 
Ouch..... but simple install. Item 6 is noted as a sensor... link below to LLL parts (slightly cheaper than VW but not much)


Screenshot 2024-04-03 182213.jpg
 
Not a bad price for a loom and sensors fitted from what I've heard from people with the same issue.
 
Thanks all for your advice. Vw in Guildford have called me back and they have quoted £1,100 for a new loom. So I’m going to use the independent
 
Thanks all for your advice. Vw in Guildford have called me back and they have quoted £1,100 for a new loom. So I’m going to use the independent
I did the sensors myself and wrote instructions. Tbh Dominic if I had a garage I trusted quote £800 I might have gone with it. The main reason I did it myself was because I didn’t know anyone near me who could do it.

Some people pay £1500+

If you read my instructions you could buy 4 sensors for £100 and then get your garage do the swap. Might be cheaper.
 
Makes me wonder if I should be removing the plastic covers on our new Ocean which hide the rams/sensor wiring and treating the sensor fittings with a coat of ACF50 spray or something similar.
A bit of preventative maintenance to avoid problems in the long term.
 
For all you knowledgeable guys on here, I need some help please. I replaced all 4 roof ram hall sensors myself. The roof goes up and down no problem but the roof open icon is still displayed in the roof display. However, when the pump is fully up or fully down you get the normal pump strain noise but it doesn’t stop on its own, I have to let the button go. Also the audible warning pings every time I drive off. I have disconnected all three batteries, removed fuse 17, 30 amp under the passenger front seat for the roof control unit, disconnected the roof display for a minute and switched this off as well for one minute, but it still shows as open and I still get the warning tone. There are no faults stored in the secret menu either, the 1000 has gone now so I thought, if there was a wiring issue it would record a fault in the roof display control unit.
For you guys that have successfully repaired this issue what am I missing, all Help gravely received? Many thanks, Alan.
 
For all you knowledgeable guys on here, I need some help please. I replaced all 4 roof ram hall sensors myself. The roof goes up and down no problem but the roof open icon is still displayed in the roof display. However, when the pump is fully up or fully down you get the normal pump strain noise but it doesn’t stop on its own, I have to let the button go. Also the audible warning pings every time I drive off. I have disconnected all three batteries, removed fuse 17, 30 amp under the passenger front seat for the roof control unit, disconnected the roof display for a minute and switched this off as well for one minute, but it still shows as open and I still get the warning tone. There are no faults stored in the secret menu either, the 1000 has gone now so I thought, if there was a wiring issue it would record a fault in the roof display control unit.
For you guys that have successfully repaired this issue what am I missing, all Help gravely received? Many thanks, Alan.
Hi
What you describe is what mine was like before the sensor fix - my roof worked but the rams kept going and I had to let go of the button and the symbol was saying roof up.

My best suggestion is that you got one of the sensors wrong. That happened to somebody recently. Perhaps the wires wrong way around.

That’s my best guess. If it’s all right then the bongs should stop and the roof stop by itself. I’m sure that’s not what you want to hear.
 
For all you knowledgeable guys on here, I need some help please. I replaced all 4 roof ram hall sensors myself. The roof goes up and down no problem but the roof open icon is still displayed in the roof display. However, when the pump is fully up or fully down you get the normal pump strain noise but it doesn’t stop on its own, I have to let the button go. Also the audible warning pings every time I drive off. I have disconnected all three batteries, removed fuse 17, 30 amp under the passenger front seat for the roof control unit, disconnected the roof display for a minute and switched this off as well for one minute, but it still shows as open and I still get the warning tone. There are no faults stored in the secret menu either, the 1000 has gone now so I thought, if there was a wiring issue it would record a fault in the roof display control unit.
For you guys that have successfully repaired this issue what am I missing, all Help gravely received? Many thanks, Alan.
In the diagnostics menu there is a a "Hardware Menu" - with Ign on can you check the readings

If the Roof ECU thinks the Roof is Open (Ign On) - AN8 will be about 108, AN9 will be ~255
If the Roof ECU thinks the Roof is Closed (Ign On) - AN8 will be ~255, AN9 will be about 108

If AN8 and AN9 with Ign on are both round 108, that indicates a fault and will result in the fault code 1000 - Normally this caused because only one sensor from two is triggered. (Ignore)

If AN8 and AN9 with Ign on are both round 255, that indicates a fault and will result in the fault code 1000 - This is caused by both an Open and Closed Sensor being sensed at the same time.

The Hardware screen looks like this (ignore the values)

unnamed.jpg
 
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Hi
What you describe is what mine was like before the sensor fix - my roof worked but the rams kept going and I had to let go of the button and the symbol was saying roof up.

My best suggestion is that you got one of the sensors wrong. That happened to somebody recently. Perhaps the wires wrong way around.

That’s my best guess. If it’s all right then the bongs should stop and the roof stop by itself. I’m sure that’s not what you want to hear.
Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it. Funny you should say that and I did wonder when I was wiring it up, as the original sensors looking from above had the red wire on the right hand side and the brown wire on the left-hand side. The new sensor was the other way round, so I wired them up to pin locations to keep the live on the right instead of wire colours is that my mistake? do the replacement sensors have the internals wired up differently than the original ones? so what I’m asking is, should it be colour to colour, red to red and brown to brown? It seems pretty obvious now, but I didn’t want to send live into the wrong pin in the hall sensor. I hope this makes sense? I was just about to de-solder and swap them round, but the heavens have open now typically!! Thanks again, Alan.
 
In the diagnostics menu there is a a "Hardware Menu" - with Ign on can you check the readings

If the Roof ECU thinks the Roof is Open (Ign On) - AN8 will be about 108, AN9 will be ~255
If the Roof ECU thinks the Roof is Closed (Ign On) - AN8 will be ~255, AN9 will be about 108

If AN8 and AN9 with Ign on are both round 108, that indicates a fault and will result in the fault code 1000 - Normally this caused because only one sensor from two is triggered.

If AN8 and AN9 with Ign on are both round 255, that indicates a fault and will result in the fault code 1000 - This is caused by both an Open and Closed Sensor being sensed at the same time.

The Hardware screen looks like this (ignore the values)

View attachment 121561
Hi, and thanks very much for your reply. This is very useful information. I have just looked at my hardware and AN8 and AN9 are both showing 107. Yet there is no fault stored. It just says “no error”. I have just replied to Lambeth Cali and I feel I need to revisit my wiring as I wired them to pin locations on the hall sensors instead of colour to colour if this makes sense? I will switch the wiring on each sensor and see what happens. Thanks again, Alan.
 
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